Ronnyhotdog

Ronnyhotdog's "realistic" CC-01 Unimog 425 Build No.2

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Update of pics for completion

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Started the wooden truck bed with 3mm plywood that I cut with a small craft saw. Not a very enjoyable activity. I made the entire thing with the same 5 inch saw. Using gorilla glue for all joints. It's a nightmare to get off once dried so their are unsightly blobs here and there. But I have decide that this is a perfect scale recreation of a trick bed made by a very lazy and unskilled carpenter and so is therefore completely authentic.

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The glue dries in about 30mins so you can take the clamps off. It requires 24 hrs to completely set though.

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The tailgate is still giving me a headache as to how to connect it so it looks authentic. I can't find suitable hinges/fixings anywhere.

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Ready for staining. This stuff was evil. It dried to quickly and became like tar before long. The issue is this trend for low/no solvent paint/stain/varnish. It may be environmentally friendly but it's pretty poor stuff to actually work with. Solvents are useful things it turns out.

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Despite all that is turned out acceptable, I guess

 

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This bed really suits the short wheelbase of the Unimog CC01 but the wood effect id better suited to the 406 rather than the 425 and so I decided not to use the wooden bed for this build and pit it on a 406 when I get another CC01.

On to the polycarbonate shell and its modification.

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I cut the cab away from the moulded truck bed and made a large insert to reinforce the back of the cab with 2mm styrene. I decided to paint the rear windows anyway so the insert could block them without worry. I then cut away a section of the back plate to accommodate the chassis

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A small bracket I made to connect the styrene to the lexan for extra rigidity. I used shoo goo to glue styrene to lexan and it works very well.

Next I made some fittings for the rear of the styrene truck bed that I have decided to use for this build.

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Rear light panel that I made to resemble the moulded part of the polycarbonate section. I also cut out the polycarbonate light section from the moulded body and used them as covers for the LED lights that will be used. I'll put the vinyl stickers on them before i glue them in place so they have the red/yellow colour.

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Rear mudguards before filling and sanding Jn2EFiz.jpg

After sanding along with the completed rear lights housing

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The completed styrene truck bed I will be using for this build

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An idea of whet the rear will looklike

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The CC01 in this guise is too short for this truck bed so I have decided to extend the wheelbase so it looks more proportional.

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And that's where I'm up to now. I am now confused as to how to fit these tie rods and fear I have wasted money on them as they probably require extra fixtures. Oh, well, live and learn.

 

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Extended wheelbase

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Started to scratch build some attachments. These are the steps for the cab that will sit below the door

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Magnetic body mounts that took a long time to get exactly right but work very well when done. The chassis magnets are attached with super glue...

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and the lexan magnets with shoo goo. Works a treat.

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A box for the underside of the truck bed made from 2mm styrene and filled in with well, filler.

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More detail. The straps are 0.5mm styrene strips cut with a balsa strip cutter

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I did the buckle with a chisel blade for a craft knife and a small pin vise for the belt holes and a pair of magnifying glassesXADOtfy.jpgr1y8rlY.jpg

The fuel tanks were done by using a card tube inner from a tin foil roll. The ends were made by a circular cutter and annoying as badword. to get right. The insides have supports to hold it rigid.

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Puddy tat

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An idea of how I want the underside to look

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The structure at the front is the connector for the cab body. EMLRa0S.jpg

It connects to the cab with L brackets and 3m machine screws RaQAvm5.jpg

Getting it to sit just right was an absolute mare and took ages. It really confused me as to how I going to get the whole to sit correctly and level. Eventually I got it right with an awful lot of trial and error.

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New wheels and tyres. £17 for 4 complete wheels. A bargain, I think.

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I had to put in each nut and bolt as they come unassembled. The tyres came with foam insert and are very soft tread

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Diamond/check plate. This is after a coat of acrylic mat varnish as it was very shiny after I sprainted it with Tamiya silver leaf. The finish was permanently dusty and silver would just wipe off time after time, so I coated it with the matt varnish. It dulled it right down but sealed it very well.

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Rear light housing after being sprainted with a KOBRA acrylic. The lights are the actual plastic lights from the lexan shell that I cut free and glued in place with shoo goo after I put the decals on from the decal sheet.

 

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Painted and detailed boxes and tanks for the underside, with attachment structures in place so the sit right.

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Had to perform a brutal adjustment for the fuel tank as it would not fit over the chassis. You can see the internal bracing.

 

That's the update. Have to do a lot of re sprainting as the paint I used didn't really adhere to the styrene. I didn't use a primer because I read and thought it would be fine, it wasn't. The green acrylic paint is chipping off quite easily. So a re coat and then gloss varnish, some weathering and then a mat varnish again, I think.

I used Tamiya acrylics for the underside attachments, wheel arches, tanks and boxes.

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them look great.

did you make the fuel tank yourself and if so how as i may be needing 2 for my grand hauler if the ones i'm having ago at atm

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I started by reading Johnny Retro's scratch building guides aver at Tamiyabase.com . I used his method for the first larger tank and for the second I wrapped some 0.5mm styrene around a cardboard tube from a tinfoil roll(any cylinder/tube you can find will do.) glued with plastic cement and then wrapped another sheet around to strengthen. Be careful with the cement though as the 0.5 is very thin and too much will warp it or melt if completely. best to use a small brush to apply thin coats where needed. Slide the tube out when everything is dry and solid. Then I made the internal bracing to measure. Use masking tape to hold everything in place while glue is drying.

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sanded rear of cab with dremel

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graphite black metallic polycarbonate paint from core rc as the undercoat for the military green acrylic final surface coats.

 

Then I put it all together and it was kind of just done before I realised it. I meant to take way more pictures of the build process but I just forgot. I'll do better next time. So here is my finished(sort of...) Unimog 425 build No.2

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full album https://imgur.com/a/M46GL

Oh, hey check out muh smooth new ride... https://streamable.com/808wh

EDIT: I forgot, I'm looking for constructive criticism about my weathering and attempts to make the Unimog look realistic. I have already seen a few things I should have done, like sand down the door hinges on the body shell and then put little cylinder styrene hinges on like the truck bed hinges, before I put the paint on. Also if anyone knows where I can get 1/12 windscreen wipers. I have some 1/10 but they are too big for this body shell, which is actually a 1/12 shell even thought the kit is 1/10

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10 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

Oh, hey check out muh smooth new ride... https://streamable.com/808wh

Great looking Unimog you've got there.  The amount of effort you've put in really shows, but I have to admit watching that video was the best ending to a build I've seen yet.  :lol:

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16 hours ago, Blista said:

Great looking Unimog you've got there.  The amount of effort you've put in really shows, but I have to admit watching that video was the best ending to a build I've seen yet.  :lol:

I stood there in stunned silence for few minutes. I was too far away to catch it and just watched it happen like I was frozen. I had put the brakes on but it was too late, over she went. Several pieces snapped away, but they were soon reattached with super glue. The front light wires were however ripped from the LED solder points so that will require some more considered repair.:(

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2 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

I stood there in stunned silence for few minutes. I was too far away to catch it and just watched it happen like I was frozen. I had put the brakes on but it was too late, over she went. Several pieces snapped away, but they were soon reattached with super glue. The front light wires were however ripped from the LED solder points so that will require some more considered repair.:(

I can see myself doing the exact same thing.  The noise it makes as it tumbles over the edge and then you just hear the engine noise slowly die, I think I'd just switch off the light, walk out of the room, and leave it for a day or two.  Good to know it's all fixable.  A military Unimog should have a few scars, so just think of it as "extreme weathering".

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7 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

I stood there in stunned silence for few minutes. ...

hahahaha I was waiting for the BLEEEP BLEEEEPBLEEEPBLEEEP BLEEEP!! :lol:

Great vid, otherwise if you only had words nobody would've believed ya. 

 

someone did similar to one of my shelfqueens last week <_< powered it up brief run then lifted it off the floor onto table; before long someone else twiddled the remote and the model (still powered live) shoots off the edge like a lemming :o

Big crash - Gravity 10000 LEGO technics 0 :rolleyes:

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