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Tamiya Model Lacquer Sprays and Clear Coats

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I am at the point of putting a clear coat on a Lunchbox body. Since I sprayed the whole thing with Tamiya model paint (TS), I realized I have no Tamiya brand clear coat. Any issue with using a Testors clear coat lacquer with the Tamiya paint?  I have no hobby shops near me except for a Hobby Lobby that carries Testors paints. 

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I don't have a quick answer for you, so I did some searching and reading to see if there is definite rule.  The best advice I saw was to test lacquer over acrylic on a scrap piece first.  There are too many formulations of paint to be 100% sure without testing for yourself.  You can be reasonably sure of compatibility within a paint series, but once you cross brands or paint series/types, then it's a big unknown without testing.

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51 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:

I don't have a quick answer for you, so I did some searching and reading to see if there is definite rule.  The best advice I saw was to test lacquer over acrylic on a scrap piece first.  There are too many formulations of paint to be 100% sure without testing for yourself.  You can be reasonably sure of compatibility within a paint series, but once you cross brands or paint series/types, then it's a big unknown without testing.

Agreed. I bought Model Master and am going to test it out first. Last thing I need is to ruin an entire body!

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whats wrong with using normal car lacquer i have used it many times or if you want try 2k lacquer thats even better. taht was painted using automotive paint and 2k lacquarIMG_20170705_163809.thumb.jpg.382ee89477000152717d77c6661715c2.jpg

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It could be done, but be cautious. 

[1]  Best case scenario:  Hard paint first, then soft paint over that.  (Lacquer is hardest, then enamel, then acrylic is softest. I think TS paint is enamel.)

[2]  Medium risk: Same type of paints (enamel over enamel or lacquer over lacquer).  Because the fumes are of the same type, fumes from the first layer escape with the fumes from the second layer.  This is less risky.  A problem could still happen if the outer layer dries too quickly.  That could prevent the first layer to release the fumes at the same time.  So surface craze appears then.  To be cautious, dry well before applying the second coat.  

[3] Riskiest: Hard paint over soft paint.  Doing lacquer over enamel can be done, but only after complete and utter drying the first layer.  I've seen a successful case only after a day.  Also, I've seen failures after 3-4 days of drying.  It all depends on temperature and moisture in the air.  To be safe, I like to give Weeks.  Artists who varnish, give 2-6 weeks.  Once again, if you seal it before enamel dries, the fumes in enamel will try to break through the hard lacquer surface, making wrinkles.   

 

[**Surface Craze]  (photo is of my IKEA desk, not an RC car. Just in case it wasn't clear--...it is a clear finish though...)

5a77632fe8401_surfacecraze.jpg.cbf0dbc407abb52e2be13e0139554019.jpg

 

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Tamiya TS paints are lacquer, therefore the hardest.

However, if you read some of the horror stories on the scale modelling forums, it seems that there is still a problem with off gassing from your colour coat which can cause the clear coat to craze. Current thinking is to spray is either to clear coat immediately the colour coat is touch dry so both coats cure and vent at the same rate, or clear coat several weeks later after the colour coat has cured completely and off gassed all the VOCs.

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I would give it one very light coat of the laquer .

then same again in 24 hours then flow the last coat on .

i always put my spray cans on a radiator for ten minutes or stand them

in a bowl of hot water .

becarefull not too long

incase they explode .

pressure in van is much better and paint definitely goes on nicer as it not comes out in lumps if it’s cold and thicker .

 

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1 hour ago, Lightningrc said:

 

i always put my spray cans on a radiator for ten minutes or stand them

in a bowl of hot water .

becarefull not too long

incase they explode .

pressure in van is much better and paint definitely goes on nicer as it not comes out in lumps if it’s cold and thicker .

 

9

lol... I don't know about other people, but I cannot trust myself with the radiator.  It's true about cold cans, so warming up is a good idea.  Hot water in the sink is easy enough.  If radiator explodes a can, my wife will ban RC for the rest of my life.  

 

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Lol ha ha 

years ago I put a can of Shultz body sealant on a radiator in work and forgot about it in our locker room lol 

well I had badword of a bollucking as it blew up and was over the ceiling and every where lol , it was stained for years until it was done out lol

 

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