Hits me like a Blitzer Beetle.

[schuultzie51 14]

2 hours ago, Collin said:

About the steering mod, you simply swap left/right upright, right? How about the clearance on this spot? Any idears?

 

Should look like this, after the switch:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=111668

[Collin 1956]

Hm,.. I found that how-to but the blur images are a bit confusing. I´ll try to file down the pin, like max69kv said. We´ll see how much is needet.

About the front shocker...

 

The clearance is 32mm now at the front and the back. With compressed front shockers it goes down to 18mm. Can anyone do this on his original to give me a comparison?

The limiting factor at the compression is the lenght of the damper cylinder. Now I have a 7mm spacer inside, so the lenght (eye2eye) is 70mm. Still thinking to cut it on 7mm and removing the inner spacer. Any suggestions? Ah, I already cut the spring for about 2 windings.

[schuultzie51 14]

Here is a picture of another members blitzer, with the steering arms (Just the White/bronze bit) swapped and flipped. Notice how the ball is now on the bottom. Essentially, you take the left, flip it over and put it on the right, ect. 

 

[Collin 1956]

Yep, got it already. I was a bit curious about how much material he took away from the front arm. I will take mine to the workshop tomorrow and see, how far I can go with no or just little modification on the arm.

In another thread I read about the limitation at the front damper because of this bump steer problem in the original version. This would explain the used mini CVAs right?

[Collin 1956]

Damper mount fixed...

 

So if it will break, it will break completely Guys, no one have a original Beetle at home to measure the ground clearance at compressed dampers, please?

 

[Collin 1956]

While I am waiting for the ESC and motor, I was thinking about where to put the electronic. Also I dont have the battery brace. Two problems, one solution.

I hope I´ll finde another piece of fiberplate somewhere. Putting the ESC with double tape on the battery brace at the end. That should work.

 

[Collin 1956]

Nice afternoon with my Girl in the workshop, she will be adiccted in RC cars very soon 
Purple is mixed with tiny metal flakes and fenders and rally stripes in matt grey, which is the new matt black. Final coat with transparent lacquer will come tomorrow... and more metal flakes, cause it will be named the "Glitzer Flitzer". LOL

We cleaned the body and closed the rear mounting points for the lights and the VW emblem. The nose was missing, so it will stay like this for now. Only last item missing is the Ampro top-brace, but this issue will be sortet out soon. Testrun is scheduled for Sunday. Not the beach but the Alps, with fresh snow... (Swapping snow for the beach, someone want to?)

 

[schuultzie51 14]

Looking good!!!

[Collin 1956]

Girl saied, now its glittery enough . I think so too.

What next? Front shockers looks ugly in this colour. Removing the anodized blue layer and the neon yellow. Steering server needs to be replaced. Its not strong enough to keep it in neutral position, when throttle up. Finding a front nose (...anyone want to donate a used one?! )

But so far its done, the GoolRC kit is in fact way to strong. 70% of it would be just fine to do relaxed crusing. But its never bad to have some reserves...

And two shots of the inner life. I like it tidy.

[Collin 1956]

Whoop whoop, just came from the countryside and had a wonderfull sunny weekend. We did beat the Blitzer up and down the hill, drove through snowfields and jumped up and down the gravel road... We did laugh so much cause this little Beetle looks so funny when bumping up and down on the front wheels, ahhh... you guys know what I am talking about! I set the gas trim on 6/10, thats way enough for bashing around in the gras. 10/10 is too much stressfull, wheelies, flips,... but really powerfull! The GoolRC is really a great tool for a fun-bashers!

First little issue was a lost pin from a dogbone. No problem, fixed it with a hammer tool (and a steel nail). So we went on... here are some impressions from after the run.

On Sunday morning we went out for the secont heat. Even my Dad got stars in his eyes after some rounds up and down the hill, it was great family fun but then the second breakdown. Jumped down the road and the rear wheel bounced away. Now I dont wonder. I think its pretty normal. Now my fellas, which wheel-axles are stronger? I want some with splines around and no pin. Its the pinhole, which makes the axle so weak. Please can you post me some Tamiya part numbers? Also I´d like to know, which rod you use to stabilze the front shocker mount? This are two upgrades I´d like to make.

But at the end we continued with a 4WD mod....

 

[Collin 1956]

Okay guys, please confirm this dirveshaft-wheelaxle combinations:

Madcap axle and hex:
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=3773&lang=eng&
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=10941&lang=eng&

Driveshaft:
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=2759&lang=eng&

 

 

[Collin 1956]

.. or any of these?

3-Racing for DT-2/3
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=9814&lang=eng&

GPM for DT-2/3/WT-1
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=126741&lang=eng&
https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=10001&lang=eng&

[Collin 1956]

... last but not least:

Tuning DF-02,DF-03,TT-02B
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=53791

[ThunderDragonCy 7878]

3Racing and Tamiya options will fit. They are effectively the same. I would steer clear of the GPM ones. They look a bit short and possible set up to replace the short plastic driveshafts that come with the cheap DT02/3 kits. 

The part to replace your broken axle is 2595039

[Collin 1956]

12 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

3Racing and Tamiya options will fit. They are effectively the same. I would steer clear of the GPM ones. They look a bit short and possible set up to replace the short plastic driveshafts that come with the cheap DT02/3 kits. 

The part to replace your broken axle is 2595039

Ok. 3Racing or Tamiya. What about the Madcap version with splines + dogbones?

[Collin 1956]

No one can tell me anything about the Madcap axel version? I wanted to sort this out quick because ordering spares bevor next weekend, please!

[kontemax 1725]

Hi Tom, sorry for my late, I received your email.
What can I say? If you use plastic Madcap rear hubs you can use Madcap splined axles but I wouldn't do it.
The splined axle is less prone to breackage but the wheel adapter will wear very fast and the axle will spin inside it.

To solve your problem I believe you need a radical modification.
This is what I would do:

- I would buy a coupl of CVD axles and I would disassemble them.
- I would take the outer parts, the wheel axles, and I would ask to a machinist to realize them with 6 mm of diameter. The machinist should realize the exagonal wheel adapters too or I should enlarge the adapters hole to 6mm.
- I would buy some 1160 bearings.

Problem solved forever.
https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=161_10&product_id=6

Cheers

Max

[Collin 1956]

Haha, radical enough for me!

[kontemax 1725]

7 hours ago, Collin said:

Haha, radical enough for me!

I don't see many other solutions.
The wheel offset is so excessice and the diameter of the tire is so big that the force applied to the axle is too much for it.
Because that axle was designed fo a simple buggy wheel and not for a massive racing truck wheel with a brutal power of a brushless motor.

Cheers
Max

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

1 hour ago, kontemax said:

I don't see many other solutions.
The wheel offset is so excessice and the diameter of the tire is so big that the force applied to the axle is too much for it.
Because that axle was designed fo a simple buggy wheel and not for a massive racing truck wheel with a brutal power of a brushless motor.

Cheers
Max

I of course fully agree with Kontemax, but a solution that requires significantly less effort and money, if possibly not quite as good, would be fitting 54048 CR-01 Reinforced Wheel Axle (2 Pcs.).

These are wheel axles of similar material (hardened steel) as Tamya universal shafts. Not unbreakable, but rather tough. As Tamiya's official description implies, these were originally released for the CR-01 chassis, but fit all Tamiya models that use standard length (35mm) wheel axles for two 1150 bearings and dogbones with the most common head and pin sizes.. If replacing the diff outdrives with the hardened steel version too (# 53218), the dogbones remain an / the Achilles heel of course.

[Collin 1956]

For now I did ordered the 3Racing CVDs as a easy solution. I like both your ideas also as I can live with the dogbones as a expendable part. Well... going through all possible evolutions, hehe. Thanks for the tec content in your postings!

[kontemax 1725]

10 hours ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

I of course fully agree with Kontemax, but a solution that requires significantly less effort and money, if possibly not quite as good, would be fitting 54048 CR-01 Reinforced Wheel Axle (2 Pcs.).

These are wheel axles of similar material (hardened steel) as Tamya universal shafts. Not unbreakable, but rather tough. As Tamiya's official description implies, these were originally released for the CR-01 chassis, but fit all Tamiya models that use standard length (35mm) wheel axles for two 1150 bearings and dogbones with the most common head and pin sizes.. If replacing the diff outdrives with the hardened steel version too (# 53218), the dogbones remain an / the Achilles heel of course.

I didn't know these parts cause I never used the CR01. Good to know anyway.

Max

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

8 hours ago, kontemax said:

I didn't know these parts cause I never used the CR01. Good to know anyway.

Max

To be honest, considering that it's almost a universal part that fits so many models, I think it was a bit unwise by Tamiya to name and announce it as a CR-01 hop-up part only. It's then so easily overlooked by those with little or no interest in the CR-01, but who would be inclined to buy it for a different model if they knew it's suitable.

[Collin 1956]

Got the 3Racing  DT02/03 universal shafts today and I am not really satisfied with them. They could be 2mm longer to fit correct. Now the pins touches the edge of the diff outdrives when the dampers are on maxiumum/uncompressed (dont know how to say in my boggy english.)

I hope they are gone soon and next time I´ll try @Mokei Kagaku suggestion.

[Collin 1956]

Here some pics... I´ll drive it untill its wrecked, no money for new parts right now...