Peter_B 997 Posted February 9, 2018 I've ordered a Schumacher Cougar KF2 SE kit, with the intention of using it for a return to some racing after 20+ years. To go with it I have: Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 ESC Speed Passion 6.5T brushless motor or (and most likely to start with) Speed Passion 13.5T brushless motor KF2 SE has the low grip conversion and mid motor conversion in the box to go with the standard forward motor position. I'm trying to determine whether or not I need to order the U4706 shorty conversion to allow using a shorty behind the motor, when the motor is in the standard forward position, or whether those parts are included in the SE kit - waiting on a reply from Schumacher. Don't have the batteries yet but I think I want to go shorty as the other motor positions require shorty packs and I want to be able to use the same packs no matter what position the motor is in. Of course I have no idea which motor position to go for - track Is carpet. I was thinking to start with the standard forward position and go from there. To be fair, first time out it will likely be totally standard kit setup. For a servo I've been debating between a Savox SC-1251MG or SC-1252MG or a Bluebird BMS-621DMG from Hobbyking. I have a couple of those Bluebird servos already in my RC10 and Top Force. They seem decent enough but neither has done any running yet. Tyres - I'm going to get a pair of pre-glued Schmacher yellow Cut Staggers for the front and a pair of Schumacher yellow Cactus for the rear. Kit doesn't come with a pinion, it has an 83 tooth spur in the box. Looking at some setup sheets online I've seen people, running 6.5T motors, use a 23 tooth pinion with the 83 spur. No idea which way to go for the 13.5T motor. For the body I'm thinking I might go for a bit of a Tamiya PS-54 Cobalt Green and PS-1 White combo. That should make it fast Doesn't help that I will have zero chance to test anything or even setup the slipper until the first time I turn up at the track. Any experience and/or advice? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jedward 89 Posted February 9, 2018 Best advice is to get yourself over to oople.com and petit RC...tons of advice re. set-ups for this car which, with respect to TC, you are unlikely to find on here. Also join the KF2 page on Facebook...assuming you are on Facebook Red is faster than green, so I recommend going with PS-2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 9, 2018 Get thread!! 👍 Ive just order a load of tuning options from Schumacher, shock /diff oil ,spring and roll bar sets etc. I'm running an LRP flow esc and a reedy 6.5t and Tbh, theres enough power to not overly worry about pinion size. Servos, if youre running more than one class,ie 4wd too, have the same servo in each, its murder trying to get used to each car turn in. Slipper- hold down the back wheels and gently roll on the throttle, (hand on each wheel and throttle with your elbow!) adjust slipper so the front wheels hover,that shouldnt be too far away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 9, 2018 4 hours ago, Jedward said: Best advice is to get yourself over to oople.com Good shout,although it took me months to get a log in! 4 hours ago, Jedward said: Also join the KF2 page on Facebook...assuming you are on Facebook Why didnt i think of that!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 9, 2018 Have posted the same thread over at oople. I'll look for the KF2 Facebook group. @Wooders28 out of interest, what pinion are you running with the 6.5T? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathon Gillham 4606 Posted February 9, 2018 @Peter_B do you know the internal ratio of the car? Sorry I don't know FDR for low turn motors, mine are all 17.5T or 21.5T so no help to you. What i can say though is to grab a few pinions around that so you can try them out, I have found a bit of tweaking gave me the sweet spot between temps and clearing jumps easily. My 17.5T run FDR around 5 for 2wd, so I would guess that for 13.5T around 6.5 - 7 would be a starting point though. Its also worth looking at an IR Temperature gun, i have just ordered this one https://m.banggood.com/MUSTOOL-MT6320-Digital-LCD-Non-Contact-Infrared-IR-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-Gun-50-380-p-1125502.html?rmmds=search They are useful to check temps so you can tell if you can go up a pinion or 2, ot have to come down. Most people at my club use them so I bought one so I don't have to ask people all the time. I would try the forward position for carpet. I run the 3 gear standup which gives mid position for clay which is obviously much lower grip than carpet. If I was to go indoor I would change to the 3 gear laydown which pushes the motor further forward. I don't know anyone running rear mount anymore. I have also found that the manual setup is a pretty decent base setup for most cars and then tweak from there. They tend to be pretty neutral and forgiving out of the box. Petitrc.com is another site with a load of setup sheets. I have found it great for my Kyosho buggies as there are heaps if setups posted, but not so good for my Tamiya's The other one is just asking at the club. I don't know protocol but I just go up to people and ask, they always seem happy to help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 9, 2018 5 hours ago, Peter_B said: Have posted the same thread over at oople. I'll look for the KF2 Facebook group. @Wooders28 out of interest, what pinion are you running with the 6.5T? Some good, useful replies on oople, and joined, well liked, the KF2se page on fb, looks like we'll be comparing notes 👍 Pinion wise, i cant rememeber off hand! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 14, 2018 I now have everything that I need to be able to turn up and race. Edit: I forgot that I'm waiting for some pinions to arrive, in the meantime I do have some from the old days that I could use to make the car move, even if they don't give me the right gear ratio. I've got the kit, the esc, the servo (found a used Savox SC-1258TG from a local seller - needs some attention to the wires at the connector though), motor, batteries, wheels, tyres and paint for the body. I've got an MRT transponder and the required BRCA membership. I've even ordered a new Corally pit case to replace my old pit box Now I need to get the kit built and body painted. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 14, 2018 Have you decided which motor position you are starting with? 10 hours ago, Peter_B said: I've got an MRT transponder Presuming you've checked its compatible to use at your club? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 14, 2018 15 minutes ago, Wooders28 said: Have you decided which motor position you are starting with? Presuming you've checked its compatible to use at your club? No not decided yet. Wavering between standard forward and mid positions. Yep checked with the club, they currently run an RC3 system so the MRT should be good. Might be an issue down the line if they upgrade but the MRT was on offer and about 40% of the price of a MyLaps one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 14, 2018 18 minutes ago, Peter_B said: Might be an issue down the line if they upgrade Because of the price, the MRT are popular with club racers, we all have MRT and would be back to manual button pressing for lap times,if the system updated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 18, 2018 On 14/02/2018 at 9:43 PM, Peter_B said: No not decided yet. Wavering between standard forward and mid positions. Did you decide on a motor position? Ive gone from the low grip to the mid motor to see how much of a difference that makes on wednesday night. The standard position requires saddles? Although i dont know why a longer belt and then utilise the low grip tensioner to lift the belt? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Wooders28 said: Did you decide on a motor position? Ive gone from the low grip to the mid motor to see how much of a difference that makes on wednesday night. The standard position requires saddles? Although i dont know why a longer belt and then utilise the low grip tensioner to lift the belt? I've built it in the standard forward position. Out of the box the standard position does require saddles. I also got the shorty conversion kit - which is a longer belt, a tensioner and different battery straps. So i incorporated the longer belt and tensioner as I built it. So far it's built up to the point of waiting for the shocks to be assembled. Quite a nice build, everything goes together quite well, even if some parts are a bit fiddly and others aren't in the order you might expect. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 18, 2018 Now built and mounted the shocks. They're quite nice and go together really well. Schumacher are a bit tight with the shock oil. Where Tamiya give you enough to build the shocks twice, Schumacher give you just enough to build the shocks and no more. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted February 18, 2018 43 minutes ago, Peter_B said: Schumacher give you just enough to build the shocks and no more. Its presumed you'll be swapping out the oil for different weights, depending on the track, on a near weekly basis. Core rc oil isn't that expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter_B 997 Posted February 21, 2018 It's all built now, electrics fitted, body painted. Just waiting on some pinions before I can run it. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
