WR-02 or GF-01

[gizard 133]

My second son has a birthday coming up in July - he really does have a handle on driving my Tamiya cars around - with the EPA function in use of course (cut throttle by 50-60%) and I am fed up with the toy grade stuff that does not last or cannot be repaired due to lack of partds.

I started looking at the Jimny MF-01x but I think the Wild Willy Driven WR-02 or GF-01 might be more fun for him, Other than the 4wd what are the benefits of each line. I have a hugely upgraded Wild Dagger so know that the gearbox in the WR-02 is good - and some parts will be shareable if required. But it seems to me the GF-01 is more robust solution.... do the Wild Willy Characters  come as standard on both?

thanks in advance

G.

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

As much as I love the WR-02 and GF-01, the short wheelbase and high and rearward CoG mean fun in the hands of an experienced RC'er and small kids mostly like all the wheelies, cartwheeling and toppling over in the beginning, but as it means poor handling and frequently having to put the model back on the wheels, kids might get bored. Of course, the poor handling is also part of the charm! So, personally I would be reluctant to give a wheelie model to a kid unless I knew that this was specifically what he/she wanted.  

In my opinion, neither the WR-02, nor the GF-01 has any real weaknesses in terms of robustness, durability and reliability. The (steering) servo mount of the WR-02 is a minor design flaw (same as your Wild Dagger), but apart from that and the battery compartment's limitations (old "Racing Pack" shape), nothing that's worth mentioning.

I have many WR-02's and some GF-01's, and like both chassises, but despite the difference of RWD vs. 4WD, I think it's fair to say that the GF-01 is an evolution of the WR-02. It can even probably be considered the replacement. There is hardly anything the WR-02 can do that the GF-01 can't do better. If I had to choose, I'd go for the GF-01.

Bodies are interchangeable between the two, so if you should prefer any of the "WR-02" bodies, it can be fitted on the GF-01 (and vice versa)  (except Honda City, Tumbling Bull and Farm King).

As for the Wild Willy figure, it's included with the following models/bodies, either as a full figure or the torso. Both versions are available as single parts, so bodies that come without Wild Willy, can have it retrofitted. If space allows, of course.

Wild Willy full figure:
49337 Wild Willy 2 Metallic Special
58242 Wild Willy 2

Wild Willy "torso":
47305 Toyota Land Cruiser 40 Pick-Up (Red Painted Body)
58512 Volkswagen Type 2 (T1) Wheelie
58531 Suzuki Jimny (SJ30) Wheelie
58576 Suzuki Jimny (SJ30) Wheelie Blue Style
58589 Toyota Land Cruiser 40 Pick-Up
58611 Honda City Turbo
84373 Volkswagen Type 2 (T1) Wheelie Custom Version
92359 Suzuki Jimny SJ30

Sand Rover type figure:
58556 Farm King (Wild Willy full figure possible)

Hilux type figure:
58586 Tumbling Bull (Wild Willy full figure possible)

Kumamon bear:
58601 Tractor Kumamon Version (Wild Willy full figure possible)

No figure:
47329 Metal Dump Truck
58622 Heavy Dump Truck

 

 

 

[gizard 133]

Thanks very much for your detailed reply - it confirms what I was guessing / thinking.

It is the 58589 GF-01 or the 58242 WR-02 body wise I am considering. Looking further availability of both seems a little limited...

looking at the manuals it seems likely that a lot of the gearbox is shared as well (both I'm sure like the wild dagger are fairly bomb proof, especially if I'm not going faster than stock)

[waterbok 1282]

+1 GF01, love the dumptruck, on loose surface you can make it dance donuts.

Got most if the other WR02 mentioned and WR01 ad well but i love the dumptruck.

maybe because Willy is driving it.

you could put some weight up front and install a higher turn motor to keep speed and nose down.

[waterbok 1282]

mini 4wd Willy driver might be hard to lay hands on.

[lentner3 281]

Yep GF01 is lots of fun and if you really want to go rear wheel drive you can always remove the front dog bones

[Juggular 4964]

I like the 50th anniversary version with smaller wheels.  

I don't know if you can get the anniversary kit anymore, but those Toyota Hilux tires are not hard to find. 

Maybe because I like the old Pajero with smaller wheels, and Jimny with smaller wheels reminds me of that. 

[MadInventor 3884]

+1 on the GF-01 Dump Truck. So much easier to drive and more stable than the WR-02 Wild Willy 2 I used to have.

 

[gizard 133]

I think it's going to be a GF-01.

Can anyone tell me what the Damper length is - eye to eye compressed and uncompressed - I see the standard items need replacing and have some gmade 55mm ones that might be suitable.

 

cheers

G.

[IoWBasher 170]

23 hours ago, lentner3 said:

Yep GF01 is lots of fun and if you really want to go rear wheel drive you can always remove the front dog bones

It would be best to remove the diff also, as without the output cups (which would fall out without the dog-bones) the diff is "floating" and could lock up/damage the other gears 

I decided on a GF-01 over a WR-02 as it's 4wd and will complement my Konghead nicely. I'm waiting for the clear grey chassis to build one up, should be cool to see all them gears spinning.

 

[gizard 133]

1 hour ago, IoWBasher said:

It would be best to remove the diff also, as without the output cups (which would fall out without the dog-bones) the diff is "floating" and could lock up/damage the other gears 

I decided on a GF-01 over a WR-02 as it's 4wd and will complement my Konghead nicely. I'm waiting for the clear grey chassis to build one up, should be cool to see all them gears spinning.

 

Not to mention the extra drag on the drive train!  

I noticed there was a clear case available, but as this will be for my son I possible will not bother to begin with

BTW does the IoW in IoWBasher mean Isle of Wight?

[IoWBasher 170]

50 minutes ago, gizard said:

BTW does the IoW in IoWBasher mean Isle of Wight?

It does indeed, I moved here in 2003 and there's some great spots to play at, beaches included.

[lentner3 281]

Actually I have found (in my TL01 at least) that with out the drive cups the diff doesn’t sit correctly and would allow the internal gears to strip. I guess with the diff removed the other gears should sit on there shafts and be fine. Either way easy to make 2wd but why bother the GF01 runs great as is and will do wheelies anyway.

[gizard 133]

1 hour ago, IoWBasher said:

It does indeed, I moved here in 2003 and there's some great spots to play at, beaches included.

I am from the island originally and still go back a lot. 

[gizard 133]

Can anyone advise what parts on the GF-01 are likely to break ?

I am guessing steeing arms is one thing. Just want to ensure I have some suitable spares if the little lad gets it for his b'day, although with the power turned down I am guessing it should be fairly bomb proof....

[IoWBasher 170]

13 hours ago, gizard said:

I am from the island originally and still go back a lot. 

Cool, maybe we can meet up for a play some time 

21 hours ago, gizard said:

I think it's going to be a GF-01.

Can anyone tell me what the Damper length is - eye to eye compressed and uncompressed - I see the standard items need replacing and have some gmade 55mm ones that might be suitable.

 

cheers

G.

The ones I'll be using are the Tamiya Mini CVA Dampers 53619. When built without any internal spacers and with the short rod end they measure about 65mm eye to eye fully extended and 45mm compressed.

The clear chassis has arrived, build thread to follow over the weekend.

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

19 hours ago, gizard said:

Can anyone advise what parts on the GF-01 are likely to break ?

I am guessing steeing arms is one thing. Just want to ensure I have some suitable spares if the little lad gets it for his b'day, although with the power turned down I am guessing it should be fairly bomb proof....

Unless run with a very hot motor, I'd say nothing is prone to break on the GF-01. If I was to give a kid a GF-01, I'd get an extra set of B-parts as the uprights and C-hubs can break if you're unlucky. The Tamiya Mad Bison came with the (otherwise identical) B-parts in a fibre reinforced material and though the Mad Bison has been discontinued for a long time, finding a set of Mad Bison B-parts shouldn't be too hard. They are grey instead of black, so easy to identify and part number is 0005757 (10005757 in current 8-digit part number system).

Furthermore, just to be sure, I'd get a wheelaxle or two as they can snap, especially on models with large wheels and/or big offset (like the GF-01). I'd get a set of driveshafts and diff outdrives too. Kids and beginners tend to run their models a lot in a short time, and driveshafts and diff outdrives will wear. Diff outdrives are available in hardened steel too (part number 53218). 

If you really want to be on the safe side, a set of C-parts won't hurt, as the holes for damper mounting on the lower suspension arms can strip. It's a soft material, so the C-parts hardly break, but run hard, the front suspension arms and lower damper ends will take a beating and threads strip. Also, depending on which body you'll use, having a set of body posts (C-parts too) might come in handy.

Funnily, all the parts mentioned are parts that were carried over from the TL01. As for the parts carried over from the WR-02, there's nothing to worry about. The same goes for the GF-01 specific parts.

I reckon you'll assemble the model with full ball bearings? If so, bushing wear isn't an issue.

[TurnipJF 9192]

Something else to bear in mind is that the clear chassis is a lot more brittle than the stock one, so if you plan on using it, drive very gently. Alternatively if the car is to be run hard, best to use the stock chassis mouldings. 

[iluvmud 812]

Id suggest getting a front one way to prevent the endos these guys are prone to doing when nearly any kind of breaking is applied. 

[gizard 133]

5 hours ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

a whole load of useful stuff....

Thanks, Yes full bearings will be going in, and I think I will get the Bison B parts. I already have some GPM swing shafts which I thought would work with something else but don't so they will be used on the front then i will have a spare set of std. for the rear - but might get the hard diff outs. (53218)

Only problem now is SWMBO has taken note of how many RC cars I have now so I need to hide a few even though this one is for the younger son, problem is the elder will want an upgrade when his birthday comes along..... (currently has a micro crawler and a 1/18 Ripmax truggy).

[waterbok 1282]

I got a mint XB GF01 Dumptruck (no box, no electronics except the torque tuned motor, do have a manual for it) that I could part with for 130€ shipped (Europe)

 

[gizard 133]

48 minutes ago, waterbok said:

I got a mint XB GF01 Dumptruck (no box, no electronics except the torque tuned motor, do have a manual for it) that I could part with for 130€ shipped (Europe)

 

That's a kind offer - but for me the build is essential plus it's the Toyota Land Cruiser 40 I'm after too with a Wild Willy Character.

Thanks anyway. 

[waterbok 1282]

Go for it.

 

[gizard 133]

ahhh wow that looks great, the younger lad is going to love it I think.

 

No one has asked how old my younger son is (which I am going to make for his birthday coming up in July) but my elder one is 5 and has no problems driving the other Tamiya's i have around at full throttle - but as mentioned earlier i let the younger one play too but turn the EPA down to about 50% which depending on the car is still faster than adult walking pace. Both of them can handle either pistol grip controllers or full size sticks. And recently in all the snow were having great fun with the Egress and TT02B with super gripper tyres.

Anyone care to guess how old he will be in July????

[IoWBasher 170]

3 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Something else to bear in mind is that the clear chassis is a lot more brittle than the stock one, so if you plan on using it, drive very gently. Alternatively if the car is to be run hard, best to use the stock chassis mouldings. 

I did wonder about this, looks like I will be breaking it soon then (see below) If I can't patch it up a standard chassis it will be 

 

3 hours ago, iluvmud said:

Id suggest getting a front one way to prevent the endos these guys are prone to doing when nearly any kind of breaking is applied. 

Personally I want endos, front flips and wheelies, to me that's the point of these short wheelbase models.