Sign in to follow this  
Jason1145

Turnigy 2wd Short Course Truck build

Recommended Posts

I've currently finished the build but the rear diff needs attention.... the manual says to put a washer behind each little gear in the main diff gear but it is notchy and when installed it binds alot... so I took it apart and removed all 4 washers and it spun smoothly in opposite directions.... but when installed back into the truck one wheel does not spin the other :(

Not sure if it will work like this or not.... I will play about and update back here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So this proves I am rubbish at build threads... it's finished!

This kit only cost £65.. I can see why... it's alot of plastic for the money but lots of it is poorly tapped and not bored properly.... it's taken me way longer than it should have due to having to ream/file/tap holes that should have been big enough but weren't.... frustrating isn't the word..... but now it's all bult it is very sizeable and this kinda makes up for it..... the shell is wafer thin and it's nt even recommended to waste paint on it but I will try it out and tape it before use to make it last until I find table replacement, maybe a Proline version if it will fit.

Parts are dirt cheap so maybe that will make up for the build once it's got electrics installed and running.

Nice alloy shocks, 3 of them are smooth but the back left one binds in the first half cm of compression..... but only when on the truck... in the hand it is smooth... and there is no binding on the arms or links when off the truck....this will need rebuilding again.

This is the cleanest it will ever be.... the screws are prone to rust according to a few reviews online and this will be getting rinsed clean when dirty... enjoy it while it lasts ;p

AyuH6W9.jpg

E25djPh.jpg

aaMPfMP.jpg

I0M1B6k.jpg

48hWj5K.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Painted the shell... old cans were sacrificed on this weak as paper lexan shell and it sure enough the cans should have been binned long ago.....  I've never seen paint come out runny!! Anyway I persevered with the two tone (silver was worse than purple) and made the best of a bad situation with the decals....

LXoY2gF.jpg

v0y2etD.jpg

You can see the gaps in the silver paint where the purple came through after

Pd3YtOa.jpg

HMxrj5B.jpg

However... this shell gave me the perfect opportunity to try out a body strengthening fiorst for me.... Bitumastic Undesderseal!

KRgZTBt.jpg

This stuff forms a rubber layer... and we know how hard rubber can be to rip!

ljPJize.jpg

JvFAO37.jpg

Seems tough as.... rubber now... but boy it stinks and now I have to keep this shell out on the shed as it's not allowed in the house ;p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's actually turned pretty cool🤘 let us know how the rubber sealant holds up, or should I say holds the body together. 😂 

Always been tempted by these for a fun basher.

James.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

That's actually turned pretty cool🤘 let us know how the rubber sealant holds up, or should I say holds the body together. 😂 

Always been tempted by these for a fun basher.

James.

No fear Jim, if I tire of it I’ll give you first dibs on the second hand market... honestly it’s much better to be buying a good condition built one for less than a PITA kit to build one.. sigh!

I think this shell will outlive the planet now it’s got armour!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was watching these during HobbyKings big sale.  I got excited to see they had severely dropped the price.  Sweet!  Or so I thought...  half price but out of stock...  :huh:

Looking forward to your report after the first roll over!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Methink you should track down someone local with an HPI Blitz to compare notes, see how many parts are dimensionally similar (identical?! :ph34r:)

even the body looks like a facsimile (on thermal paper :rolleyes:) of HPI ATTK10 kit shell 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interwebs say Kyosho Ultima SC arms fit, HPI for dogbones :) 

hmmm... just noticed HobbyKing new Blaze by SNRC... very X-ray inspired.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the arms are hard to source on Hobbyking as always out of stock

https://hobbyking.com/pt_pt/lower-suspension-arm-set-l-r-front-l-r-rear-4pcs-bag-a2030-a2031-a2032-and-a2033.html?wrh_pdp=3

But very good substitute are the Kyosho Ultima SC Arms P/N UM803 ( this pack includes 1 front and 1 rear arm)

 

It really was a PITA to build though... did I mention that?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool thread! Glad to see it’s coming together ok?

Can I ask, what made it such a pita to build?

I bought my one used and already built. But I’ve stripped and rebuilt bits on it a few times. It’s not Tamiya. But didn’t really see it as much different to most other hobby grade kits. 

Hope you get to run it soon. The best thing I’ve found with these is. They just drive really nice. Easy and predictable to control and no nasty handling traits. Think they would even work well on a track as well as bashing. 

Here is a short clip of mine. Although still in its Desert Buggy guise. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seeing yours makes me excited to finally get the Electrics and get it running, what motor and batteries was that video on as it looked rapid enough.

The PITA was many pre tapped holes weren’t large enough to accept the screws first time round... if it’s built already that problem would be non existent you lucky thing!

Then the rear diff... I’m still not sure mine is right until I run it... I built it as per the manual with a single shim behind each little internal gear ( 4 of them if that’s the correct term?) -and when tightened the diff back up it was extremely stiff to turn opposite in directions by hand.. and when installed into the truck the rear wheels almost locked together when pushing it along the ground and holding it in the air they spun together same direction like a locked diff.

So I took it out and tried backing off the diff screws a touch and it then felt smoother in the hand.... hmmm ok I put it back in the truck and then the rear wheels onlybsoin by themselves.. not opposite to eachother.

Took it out again and removed 2 of the 4 shims inside the diff , put back together.. tightened diff up fully and hooray.. it was smooth with opposite spinning action in the hand.... so I put it back in the truck and now the wheels still don’t spin opposite to eachother.. they spin singularly ... so this is where it’s at... time will tell if it’s going to work or not.. hope so.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jason, looks like a nice cheap basher this one. The diff action may seem a bit off as there is no resistance until you install a motor. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that’s exactly why I bought it and there is a lot of nice touches and m the kit, bearings, alloy shocks, carbon battery plate etc

Yeah it might turn out ok, I was just basing this off my old Traxxas Slash where the diff was trouble free lol 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Electrics fitted..

Traxxas 2075 waterproof servo

GoolRC 2.4G radio

3650 Blue 5200kv Motor And Waterproof 60a ESC ( stuck to the battery bar as it’s too big to fit either side of the central battery tray)

Running on 2s lipo Took it out for the 1st run and it’s just like I had hoped it would be... big brash tough and fast! The bitumastic sealed Bodyshell is very bendy and strong so I have high hopes, and the differential seems fine with the slipper clutch working well.

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick update... the bitumastic underseal didn’t work as the rear of the shell has some tears... maybe one coat of it wasn’t enough who knows... good idea poorly executed maybe, jury’s out on that mod.

Ran a 2s lipo today and a couple things to note, the 5200kv motor was extremely hot when I touch tested it after 10 minutes... couldn’t hold my finger for 2 seconds, only 1 so yeah that’s overhearing there.

I think the stock pinion is 13t but not sure which pitch, @Losi XXT-CR do you happen to know?

Also @Losi XXT-CR can you post a photo of how you mounted your rear shocks... in front of the tower or behind Etc, spacers used? My rear shock leaked oil everywhere and now bond on the rear camber link so I’m not sure if I fitted them wrong aswell?

Jobs to do :

Try a bigger pinion to see if that stops the motor overheating.

Fix leaking rear shock

Check rear shocks are mounted in correct orientation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked the leaking shock.. after I cleaned the gunk out the way (wheel, arm, hubs etc) I saw the lower part of the shock had unscrewed itself and slid down the shaft leaking the oil out that way, not the top cap area as I'd presumed!

Also turns out this had happended to one of the front shocks too but the oil was still held in place by the orings to a degree so it wasn;t messy nor noticeable until inspected.

I think I need to put thread lock on these parts now, odd never had the shocks open themselves up there before.

I've ordered a 16t pinion to replace the stock 13t one.... hoping this will cool my 5200kv motor down a bit as it might have been undergeared (hot motor, cool esc)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick update..... the pinion situation is still a work in progress..... the 48p 16t inion is too fine to mesh with the stock white spur... so I assume the white spur is 32dp.... so i ordered a 16t 32dp pinion but when it arrived it wold nt slide onto the motor shaft.... must be an impefection in the pinion bore hole... so the seller sent a replacement and the same thing...... was supposed to be for a 3/3.17mm motor but it would not fit.

so now I will drill out the centre hole to accept the 3.17mm motor shaft.

For the mean time I've put a slower 3100kv motor in place of the 5200kv one

YSMHzXr.jpg

In other news.... the bitumastic underseal I used to give some body protection didn't work... maybe 1 coat is not enough

ORlbjGR.jpg

Now I've taped it a bit but don't give it much hope of lasting...

TC6Vkso.jpg

 

I took this SCT on holiday with me last week and it was going great guns... until I hit a fence post and broke one of the rear suspension pin holders.... luckily I found the dog bone that had been spat out and the hinge pin is undamaged...

Zu4ymUS.jpg

Now replaced with some alloy parts which shouldn't fail like their plastic brethren

MkUB8U9.jpg

omisGWj.jpg

Sp6LJXn.jpg

PS  -Don't comment on the rear shock mounting situation.... it's the best I can do with this...they won't mount anyother way and the instruction manual photo is as useless as a chocolate teapot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey @Jason1145! Good few tips in there. Mine went together pretty easily but with all said tapping and drilling. I have done the much talked about (on other forums) shock shortening mod with some o rings to reduce shock length by around 6-7mm per end. Still seems to ride very high at the front with virtually no droop. Anyway, I am super interested in those aluminium rear arm blocks. Where did you find them? I am finding the hobbyKing website insanely frustrating to try and find any spares or hop ups for this truck. Any tips much appreciated! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Hey @Jason1145! Good few tips in there. Mine went together pretty easily but with all said tapping and drilling. I have done the much talked about (on other forums) shock shortening mod with some o rings to reduce shock length by around 6-7mm per end. Still seems to ride very high at the front with virtually no droop. Anyway, I am super interested in those aluminium rear arm blocks. Where did you find them? I am finding the hobbyKing website insanely frustrating to try and find any spares or hop ups for this truck. Any tips much appreciated! 

Great news yours went together easily.. I just saw my one upstairs and now I want to go run it again... I think I got the  16t Pinion on in the end and it’s a good match for the 3100kv motor on 2s.

Yeah that HK site is frustrating to navigate... I’ll try find the links for you later on

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this