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holyhope

Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero

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Hi to all!

I need some information! I have a CC01 Pajero Rally (the grey version, not the black and low version).

I use a carson remote + servo.

I use the blocked differential mode 

i use the RC for exposition and, when I use it, only for off road (to tell you the true i have a real Pajero 2003 grey with black wheel, very identical to this RC)

Now I buy a 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) black with maximum size 2.2" (I measure and are 10.8 cm of diameter) but there are too big because the bodyshell do not fit and when suspension is all compress the wheel touch the chassis. This wheel are very pretty and I will keep it but I buy another kit of 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) that have size, extimated, of 1.9" . this wheel is not yet arrived but I suppose that size MAYBE fit in my car without touching chassis (but maybe the bodysheel still can't used).

I'm thinking to rise my RC like in real car (my real car has a +5" kit) for a better (in my opinion) aesthetic appearances and can fit big wheel.

I not know if it is possible and I'm writing here for ask you that: Is possible to rise my RC pajero gray CC01 chassis? if yes can you link me the kit to buy or the spare part?

thanks

Massimiliano

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Raising the suspension is difficult because of the IFS - Independent Front Suspension.

You can't fit longer shocks without upsetting the suspension geometry on the front. You can increase the rear by a bit.

Ultimately you're better off raising the bodyshell and keeping the centre of gravity as low as possible at the same time. Maximum wheel and tyre size is about 100mm for a CC01. Even this will need adjustment / trimming of chassis and body to prevent rubbing.

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if you want more tyre clearance on a Pajero, you either cut the body wheelarches bigger or you jack the whole body further up off the chassis.

lexan body Pajero is easier than hardbody Pajero MetaltopWide to jack up... you could get different mount for rear or just flip them over to the top of the chassis tub. Front bodymounts can move up a notch or 3; put on a new pair if you've cut them too short.

When you buy tyres measuring "2.2"" or "1.9"" that's usually the standard WHEEL diameter. Actual outer diameter of tyre is not often stated.

i've kept to stock-size BFG MudTerrain (same size as kit) on my Rally, they measure about 86mm dia. Other shells like LC40 have room to go bigger, some like CRV & Landfreeder have even smaller arches. Most 3rd party tyres start at 95-100mm and go bigger.

 

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hi to all.

Thanks for your answer.

Chris how I can rise the body???? I try to move the "inser" for bottom from lower to upper but in front there is no a way to rise more... maybe I need I more high rods... Do you have a guide or video or simply a photo how to rise body in car similar to mine?

Willy thanks... for now I prefore to not cut the body... I want to keep it as is! Ok I can perform a very little modify but I prefore to no cut anything for now....

14 hours ago, WillyChang said:

lexan body Pajero is easier than hardbody Pajero MetaltopWide to jack up... you could get different mount for rear or just flip them over to the top of the chassis tub. Front bodymounts can move up a notch or 3; put on a new pair if you've cut them too short.

 

maybe this is what I mean before... but how I can rise the front? i must use a clip up and bottom the shell?

thanks

Massimiliano

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Depending on how you got your Pajero Rally, the front body posts can differ. I've got a very early car and it's got fixed alloy posts on the front with no choice of position. Later cars have plastic posts with multiple positions possible... unless you've cut it too short :P 

Then you'll need to buy new set of uncut bodyposts. Or some people make extenders with bronze or Alu tube with 5mm inner diameter. Or buy the same idea factory made, like these:-

kb48105-killer-body-body-post-extenders-

Cc01 body posts sprue looks like this

tamiya_9005741_1.png

 

 

 

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Hi!

thanks you! i have no cut my Cc01 body posts sprue and i have another one new (are present 2 kit) but I not remember if the second one is higher or not. 

 

Tomorrow I will check and kepp you informed.

 

thanks

Massimiliano

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Hi i have Mount one higher body posts. 

In photo the difference! 

You can see my tire

I'm drimming the chassis upper the tre for avoid touch. 

Next i will send photo of the new (smaller) tire, when arrive, and in a few hour the drimming of chassis. 

Maybe if i drim so mutch i can break the chassis using the car in off road? 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

P_20180319_112234_vHDR_Auto.jpg

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Ok, now I have filed with the drimmedthe chassis... I will send a photo asap.

Meanwhile I ask an info: there are spare part for rear differential and front axle to move out the tire? 

I have take a photo of the instruction for the original part, I will post here in a few time.... I'm asking if there are part similar to original but more longe

(waiting photo maybe you can understand me: are that part where wheel is connected to the RC that is, in front, a screw and in the bottom two axle that end in differential)

 

thanks

Massimiliano

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Bere there is the result. 

I have buy, will arrive in much time, a 12mm offset for wheel

 

In your opinion how is the result of cut the chassis? Will be stable and i will avoid break of chassis with very thiny space around body post sprue? 

P_20180319_170640_vHDR_Auto.jpg

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haha that's some very sexy curves you've carved there...! :lol:

meh don't worry too much, if it breaks you can buy a whole new chassis tub for not much $$

i think the fella that cut his tub to fit under a Sand Scorcher body would've cut a lot more than you did ^_^

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Thanks you! So I'm safe!!! Eheeh

if I will have problem I can cut a piece of Alluminium and join the body post or the rear body post (not know name... it is maybe chassis tub.told before!???)

Now my "rising up" is done! rising the bodyshell not chassis!

I know that this will not be a very car for competiotion or race but i choose that because I love very mutch Pajero!

In your opinion what I can do for "a bit" upgrade it? I'm thinking to buy;

- Complete kit of bearing... Can be usefull or it a wast of money?

- Wheel offset... In reallity I have just buy... are arriving... I buy a 12mm offset

And there are other thing that I have seen but i not know if coulb be usefull

-suspension... can be usefull?!!?!?!?!? If I buy a more long suspension I will have problme on front because are indipendent suspension.... mauby I must buy a complete kit of front suspension (suspension and all plastic, buing metal instead, that join to chassis) and a complete kit for rear suspension (suspension plus more long bar)-.... but could be usefull? As told before in this way I rise my center of weight and will be more instable (and just now it flup up to down very frequently using my RC!)

- steering: there is a kit in metal for sobstitute actual plastic steering system... can be usefull? (it is the part that is connected to the servo motor)

- motor... we talk about it another time... I have 2 other motor then original and another ESC... With the battery maybe we can speak another time ahha

 

Thanks you!

Massimiliano

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I have big fleet of CC01, I've lost count of how many I've got... :unsure: but hey they're a fantastic chassis & it's been out 25yrs!! ^_^

Yes full ballbearings are a must, don't build any RC without BBs. Even the ones I build to display on shelf usually get full BBs. Bearings are so cheap today, it's less work to install in everything when first building than later on.

If you want tighter steering lock... I install the GPM alloy steering rack with ballbearing shaft (you need to build it properly though, it's not simply bolt-in easy), CVD axles & shave the nubs off the c-hubs that limit steering angle. 

All other alloy bits... looks good, but doesn't improve performance IMHO. :) 

People do all kinds of crazy suspension mods... meh, I don't use CC01 for climbing rock cliffs, for where mine get driven the stock suspension works just fine - just build the CVA shocks properly.

Currently a car on workbench has got "stroke extension" mod on its rear end that lets the axle drop down further... but I'm not convinced it does anything helpful either - axle can fall down further but if there's no weight on that wheel it don't make any grip, huh? I can't see any improvement...

Testing each mod by having 2 cars run side by side is the best science -_-

 

 

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Hi! Thanks for your answer! There is something that I have no understand.... but i will ask you later. Before all what I understand is that bearing is a good thing and modify suspension not or is not usefull at all....

I not understand what mean the abbrevations "CVD" and "CVA" and I not understand why I must reduce steering and how to do it.. I quote all that here:

2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

If you want tighter steering lock... I install the GPM alloy steering rack with ballbearing shaft (you need to build it properly though, it's not simply bolt-in easy), CVD axles & shave the nubs off the c-hubs that limit steering angle. 

just build the CVA shocks properly.

Thanks,

Massimiliano

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Hi

O advice requested: for limit steering there is a function con my remote CARSON so I not need to modify anything. BUT my RC is always un stable... My RC, when I perform a steering, many many many Times she flip overturned (on one side or with wheel upper)... I limit steering but I can't limit anymore... What I can do? (either improve my pilot ability ahah) 

There is a way to dinamical limit steering? I means a way to improve steering limitation when Speed increase? 

My Solution with remote or your with mechanical modify, I suppose, limit steering in the same way at all Speed, (am I correct?) 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

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GPM steering rack look here http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/09/tamiya-cc-01-unimog-upgrades-installation/3/

P1050778.jpg

 

CVDs are universal driveshafts to replace your "dogbones"

gpm-scc245-2.jpg

Stock dogbones cannot turn such a big angle like when you remove the angle limiters on the c-hub & the steering knuckle is able to turn more.

P1050794.jpg

 

CVA is just what Tamiya calls their plastic shock absorbers. :) you can buy Tamiya "TRF" alloy dampers but the plastic CVAs can work very well when built correctly. They work better than most of the cheap China alloy shockers... most aren't worth buying.

50520.jpg

 

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8 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

GPM steering rack look here http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/09/tamiya-cc-01-unimog-upgrades-installation/3/

P1050778.jpg

 

CVDs are universal driveshafts to replace your "dogbones"

gpm-scc245-2.jpg

Stock dogbones cannot turn such a big angle like when you remove the angle limiters on the c-hub & the steering knuckle is able to turn more.

P1050794.jpg

 

CVA is just what Tamiya calls their plastic shock absorbers. :) you can buy Tamiya "TRF" alloy dampers but the plastic CVAs can work very well when built correctly. They work better than most of the cheap China alloy shockers... most aren't worth buying.

50520.jpg

 

Hi thanks for your answer.

Ok now understand what CVD are! And I will not change with aftermarket, for now. I will change only for buy a more higher but with the front suspension system is not possible without change all system

For GPM steering rack ok ok understood!

For CVD I understand what they are but I not understand very well why change it....  For how reason increase steering? in my RC the I limited the steering with remote, unless it flip up to down when steer!!! Maybe this CVD are usefull more long if I want to modify the IFS for rise a bit the car but, IMHO is not usefull increase the steering (I'm new on the RC world so there could be many reason that I not know)

thanks

Massimiliano

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When you cut off the steering-throw-limiting-nubs (yellow arrow) your knuckles will get to turn a wider angle.

Using std dogbones they don't like turning such a sharp angle & will start jerking/chattering. Change to universals/CVDs which can take a bigger angle.

 

I drive CC01 in tight areas, I need the extra steering (smaller turning circle). 

 

I also take mine to the racetrack :lol: yeah they're really top heavy, they must slow down to go around corners or they will flip. Even worse on the cars with bigger softer/stickier rubber, they'll flip even when just trying to avoid another car haha

its more fun than a touringcar :rolleyes:

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Ahahah!

I understand! Yes it is true... sometime the steering is too short! And for increase it the dogbones must modify or traction, at high angle, not work and jerking!

I, in really, limit with my controller, the steering because I have very several problem steering at "high" speed... there isn't a way to limit steering dinamical? maybe my remote is too sensible eheh!

Ok, on the next buy... I will buy bearings and dogbones and nothing else (no suspension or other....)

An advice how to know if a new dogbones is good or not for this purpose? i must watch the length?

thanks

Massimiliano

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The CVD that fits CC01 is exact same used on TA03 :) 

Lately I've been buying Yeah Racing & Eagle Racing versions for this part, works well. The GPM version I don't quite like.

Tamiya makes their own hopup CVD for CC01 that is rebuildable too #54608 but it's expensive, it's 3X the price of the YR CVDs :blink: so I haven't bought any yet.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/720/54608/header_54608.jpg 

 

 

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I have some Tamiya ones- bought them when you could get bargain  prices from Banzai Hobby!

For CVA dampers I don't think you'd see an advantage - the stock car comes with oil filled dampers anyway. 

A big upgrade is to replace the rear suspension links with something that won't flex like the kit plastic versions. Lots of options out there for any budget...

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Hi thanks for your answer!

TA03 is another type of chassis, Am I correct? It seems a chassis for racing car on road

Ok my CVD are specular, the one you post are circular to one side. maybe in this way can allow better steering angle

For CVA I suppose to keep my original or, at least, as suggest to change only the plastic bars for rear suspension.

 

Ok, one last info: For my Pajero project I will stop here for modify. If I want an RC for very very bad off-road what kind I must buy? maybe a 6wd? or a RC withour front indipendent suspensions? can you tell me some RC (or chassis) that are the best for offroad and customization?

 

thanks

Massimiliano

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Yes TA03 is an onroad touringcar; the CrossCountry (=CC01) was designed around the time of the TA02. So it recycles the front steering knuckles from TA02 (especially if you see BLUE plastic ones :) ) then the TA03 uses the same axles front and rear. 

There are different styles of "universals", CVD is just one type of universal. Before CVDs we used the cross pin & yoke type universal old design...

27126.jpg

...imho they are not as smooth as CVDs ;) 

 

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1 hour ago, holyhope said:

Ok, one last info: For my Pajero project I will stop here for modify. If I want an RC for very very bad off-road what kind I must buy? maybe a 6wd? or a RC withour front indipendent suspensions? can you tell me some RC (or chassis) that are the best for offroad and customization?

haha what kind of OFFROAD are you thinking about?

(ok I gotta first say I'm not a fan of Traxxas HQ company, their legal dept trying to sue everyone is bad for RC industry)

something FAST and overpowered CRAZY FAST & goes REALLY FAST?? :rolleyes: buy a Slash 4X4 with the VXL Velineon brushless... it's crazy fast fun.

Shals4X4MAIN.jpg

or something that looks scale ("scaler"), will climb up rocks ("rock climber") better than CC01... I gotta admit I like the look of Traxxas TRX4, it looks amazing

traxxas-rx4-crawler-land-rover-defender-

or MST's CMX & CFX looks good too

or RC4WD's Trailfinder 2 or buy the original called Tamiya Bruiser/Mountaineer ^_^

or something unique like 6x6(x4?) KongHead :D 

tamiya-58646-2.jpg

(I don't think it's all that great an RC for rough bashing around, but hey for attracting stares KongHead is FANTASTIC)

 

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Hi all!

 ok now understand how works, ok now it is all correct eheh!

For RC... ARE ALL FANTASTIC!! The Trx4 is fantastic but how cost? I see 500€!!!

I found the similar defender D90 but it is very expensive too (

The Tamiya 6wd is very fantastic, I love it! ahah

Now I must evaluate my budget! eheh

edit: I discover a wonderfull thing!!! The TRX4 have differential that are possible locking with remote! It is very wonderfull!!! There any other RC with this function? wow!

thanks

Massimiliano

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Hi to all! 

I have just ordered the complete bearing and dogbone like in your photo! 

bearing: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/TAMIYA-CC01-FULL-SET-OF-BEARINGS-18PCS/32724680072.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

dogbone:  https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-RC-Part-Metal-Universal-Driven-Dogbone-Drive-Shaft-CC01-For-1-10-Scale-Models-TAMIYA/32815919650.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

I have  bad news! Yesterday arrived my 1.9" tyre but not fit ****! I'm Waiting the hex of 25mm maybe with that they will fit! 

my 1.9" tyre that not fit: https://geek.wish.com/c/5793866b5c394f784bb53ba8

my big 2.2 tyre: https://geek.wish.com/c/56a5e91f7fcde10de1a2cb81

my wheel hex: https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg&orderId=505574923288804&productId=32842665220  (grey color version)

I olso buy a new motor a brushless sensored motor with 17.5 T. 

motor: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1-box-Hobbywing-QUICRUN-3650-Sensored-G2-6-5T-8-5T-10-5T-13-5T-17/32820318285.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg  (17.5T version)

I have buyed a SkyRc motor 8.5T with his ESC and programmer but I now know that was not a good type for offroad some month ago when I buyed it... 

actual high speed motor: https://geek.wish.com/c/5695b3d9ae8c934e3fc7bcd5

What do you think of my choice? 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

P_20180328_154636_vHDR_Auto.jpg

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