Jump to content
holyhope

Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero

Recommended Posts

Those beadlock wheels don't work.

You could get some axle extenders:-

40000_23693.jpg

but then you'll cause even more body clearance issues. Your call.

CC01 doesn't need faster motors, plenty fast as-is. No real benefit for brushless, brushed works fine for CC01 with less complications. Most ppl want slower motors like 45/55/70turn to make it a crawler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi

thanks you!

I already buy this wheel.... I read in description that are compatible with cc01 but it isn't true. I have just ask a refound.

For extender, yes I buy it! They will arrive...

For motor, OK! I never know that there are motors at 50 and over Turns!

Yes original is just fast ad need. the other one is TOO fast. I hope with the motor in arrive (17.5 T) , already buy, will be in the middle. You are right... maybe will be a bad buy

thanks!

Massimiiano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What motor are you running, the stock kit "silvercan" motor?

That is a "27t" motor... so 17.5 will still be FASTER than 27t 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi 

****! But in reality maybe could be what I want.... I mean, I want something between the original (540 silver i suppose) and the SkyRc faster (now I Mount this one) , so this could be! Maybe when i learn to drive well an RC I will understand why is better a motor that go slower (now I can't understand because the only data better is the Torque, that it is IMHO sufficient in 8.5T too) maybe you can explain me? Sorry I'm very new at this world! 

Can I ask you some info in your previously answer? 

18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Those beadlock wheels don't work.

Why? You are telling to me that the tyre will ho out from the wheel anyway? 

 

18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

No real benefit for brushless, brushed works fine for CC01 with less complications

Ok sorry I don't know exactly the benefit of each other, what Kind of complication could be with a brushless motor? On my study I learn that a brushless is more durable maybe I'm wrong. 

 

18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Most ppl want slower motors like 45/55/70turn to make it a crawler.

Ppl what it means? 

Why for a crawler it is needed a motor with this characteristics? 

 

Sorry for my english... I write As good As I can but I understand that it is not perfect! Eheh

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ciao! :)

ppl = people

The beadlock wheels you received... with the beadlock ring on the inside fouling the suspension/knuckle its not made for CC01 definitely. It way work on other trucks/crawlers maybe.

Some crawlers can use smaller wheels of 1.5" rim diameter, but these won't work on CC01. Many "steel" style wheels come in this smaller 1.5" size with thick tyre sidewalls.

With CC01 we need "touring car" wheelsize of 1.9" diameter (24-26mm wide).

Many of these are glue-on type of wheel; but there are some beadlocks that clamp with the ring on the outside too.

BL09S-04.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, my beadlock have ring inside and outside. I hope they will work right when will arrive the offset for wheel!

I have glued only my big tyre. The tyre with beadlock I have NO glued.. in your opinion I must glue it too? I suppose the tyre didn't go out from wheel but maybe the tyre can slip around wheel without glue...

 

Finally I have painted and apply sticker (Oh come on! There are no pre-cut!..) and attach there are the result! The version with original wheel and the version with big wheel and the bodyshell upper then normal!

Thanks,

Massimiliano

29791936_10215686029169231_5761552630594445850_n.jpg

29683197_10215686026009152_7009823171558314097_n.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Massimiliano,

I recently bought this kit as I too have a full size version although being from the UK it's called a Shogun.

I have fitted the axle extensions mentioned above and some larger tyres. I'm in the process of raising the body and making some custom inner wheel arches.

Do you have any pics of your full size car?

 

 

29137915_10155526188551158_20398914_n.jpg

29340844_10155526197546158_2072636845_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,  yes here there is! 

As you can see wheel Black and riservata up (5cm) and wheel offset! Ahah. I love that car! 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

2017-07-19_20_15_03.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi to all

One question! If I Rise my body there is a very big gap from chassis to body. Any idea how to cover it? Maybe without ostruct the wheel. I suppose maybe to use a Kind of moquette to cover The Electronic and leave The hole.. What you think about it? If it is not understable what I mean I can take a Photo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/25/2018 at 7:20 AM, WillyChang said:

(ok I gotta first say I'm not a fan of Traxxas HQ company, their legal dept trying to sue everyone is bad for RC industry)

Sorry off topic. Do you have any more info on this?  I live literally minutes away from the Traxxas HQ here in Texas. I drive by the HQ several times a week. The facility is currently under expansion (looks like at least double the current size), and there are always rows of semi-trucks at the loading dock. Business must be good. Though I personally don't own any of the Traxxas models. I don't find them appealing for some reason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 29/03/2018 at 10:08 AM, holyhope said:

Hi to all! 

I have just ordered the complete bearing and dogbone like in your photo! 

bearing: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/TAMIYA-CC01-FULL-SET-OF-BEARINGS-18PCS/32724680072.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

dogbone:  https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-RC-Part-Metal-Universal-Driven-Dogbone-Drive-Shaft-CC01-For-1-10-Scale-Models-TAMIYA/32815919650.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

I have  bad news! Yesterday arrived my 1.9" tyre but not fit ****! I'm Waiting the hex of 25mm maybe with that they will fit! 

my 1.9" tyre that not fit: https://geek.wish.com/c/5793866b5c394f784bb53ba8

my big 2.2 tyre: https://geek.wish.com/c/56a5e91f7fcde10de1a2cb81

my wheel hex: https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg&orderId=505574923288804&productId=32842665220  (grey color version)

I olso buy a new motor a brushless sensored motor with 17.5 T. 

motor: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1-box-Hobbywing-QUICRUN-3650-Sensored-G2-6-5T-8-5T-10-5T-13-5T-17/32820318285.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg  (17.5T version)

I have buyed a SkyRc motor 8.5T with his ESC and programmer but I now know that was not a good type for offroad some month ago when I buyed it... 

actual high speed motor: https://geek.wish.com/c/5695b3d9ae8c934e3fc7bcd5

What do you think of my choice? 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

P_20180328_154636_vHDR_Auto.jpg

My wheels were like that, I just removed the metal tabs with the sanding drum attachment on the dermel, it took a couple of of sanding attachements but it all came off fine & has be working fine for the last couple of years. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi thanks for your answer.

Sorry but I don't understand what is it "sanding drum attachements" can you explain? Sorry

thanks,

Massimiliano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ahhhhh!

Ok!!! It is one kind of attachment to the dremel!!! now I understand! ahah

thanks!

Now I'm waiting the packet from china!!!!

Massimiliano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wel you can give lots of your $$$ to Dremel company, or use this instead 

71Z6vjiHTrL._SX522_.jpg

^_^

Dremel stuff is so expensive <_<

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahah yes yes you are right! I use this for my body Shell! And for chassis I use the big dremel for iron, i not know translation in english but it is that

https://goo.gl/images/8y8zoi

BUT I must pay attention because with plastic it could erese the dish (they are projected for iron eheh) 

Maybe I can buy a dremel from china and buy the insertiion in Italy. I will use very few time so I not need a very quality one 

Thabks

Massimiliano 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi to all! 

It was arrived the new motor and i will test it asap. 

Meanwhile could tell me anyone if it is possible a thing like in the photo? 

My diff unscrew itself and start slip! No broken thing or similar I only rescrew the screw and all work right! Eheh

An Info anyone know if there is for cc01 chassis a rear diff locking via remote? Like on traxxas TRX4 defender? 

Thanks

Massimiliano 

P_20180414_183603_vHDR_Auto.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it's not unknown for those diff screws to unscrew. When building they need to be tight but not supertight (if you overtorque tiny screws beyond their elastic point they'll actually hold tightness LESS than if they were still elastic). 

You need to degrease their holes properly then reassemble with some Loctite threadlock. Do not overtighten. If you don't open that part very often, some ppl use superglue to keep the screws in.

There are 2 plastic parts you replace the spider gears with to lock CC01 diff. You need to open the whole axle to access... I'm lazy, I just make a spare whole axle & swap that in :P it's a 3 screw job B) plus 2 wheel nuts :lol:

Traxxas locks their diff by using a servo to push a pin in... nice modcon, but unnecessary complication - there's some TRX owners that have removed that function. Or the ones that build from kit, not bother installing it.

No point on CC01, more trouble than it's worth. Some larger T trucks like rere Bruiser have diff locking via a pin you screw in through an access hatch; you'll need to redesign & replace the whole diff case & axle housing on CC01.

:D which I what I'm thinking of doing... just make an alternative whole axle ^_^ make it without diff, then swap between original diff axle. I'm finding my rear axles keep getting hit often at the rear axle 'pumpkin' and one day that's gunna break. Would be cool if there's an axle with alternative drive system (it'll need to keep same ratio or else the front drive will complain.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thanks you! Your answer are very fantastic!

Yes I thinked to use a glu on screw and now I have not torque very mutch... I'm still waiting the bearing so I need to re open all.... When I will performthat operation I will use a bit of locatite!

i do not know that TRX4 diff lock was not good! But I can understand.

Now (and before the unscrew) I use the diff lock... at first build I use diff unlock and at every piece of mod my car stucked... :-( I suppose I will never unlock again the diff! Maybe If I will buy a new car for fast purpose (racing in circuite onroad) I will use a diff unlock but all offroad purpose I will use diff lock! For FRONT diff I still using the diff unlock (I not remember If there is possibility to lock that).

for Now I will not buy an extra axle to swipe fast from diff lock or unlock because my only use will be with unlock version (maybe if I have possibility to lock via remote I will use always diff unlock and lock it when my car is stuck! But I can't change axle when my car will stuck! eheh It is not correct sahahah) and I will use it only on offroad, so I not need a version with diff unlock

thanks so mutch

Massimiliano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I prefer an open front & rear diffs for what my CC01s do.

Here's an odd observation :) last Wednesday we took 5 trucks to the racetrack, 4 were open diffs and just 1 had a locked rear diff (this one just newly arrived, i haven't rebuilt it to my spec yet). All Tamiya kit size tyres.

This one kept falling over (traction roll) about twice as often as the others. :blink:

Just turning full steering lock then accelerating was enough to lift a back wheel and nearly rollover, doing that when truck was already moving was guaranteed rollover. This truck also only had standard steering lock too, not the "improved" option alloy steering rack the other 4 had with much bigger steering angle.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thanks you 

thanks for info! To tell you the true on-road my Pajero slip a lot and flip over very mutch time.... this is because I steer to tight and with blocked diff i have stability problem. BUT if I use off-road it is stuck not aways but 80% times without rear diff lock... So for my driving skill it is better rear diff lock! If you can tell me some advice how to drive my RC in heavy off-road with diff open... I will learn very soon and maybe I can always keep rear diff open.

thanks

Massimiliano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi to all! 

Today arrived my dogbone substitution! Here attach there is a photo!. I'm still waiting (will arrive very soon) my bearing and my hex offset but this one seems not delivered yet! ****.. Today I order a new pair (only less the 6euros with ship) I hope that one arrive! 

Now I have  no time and I prefer wait bearing but I will mount all very soon! 

(Meanwhile is arrived my new 17.5T motor top! And it is on waiting to be assembled too) 

Thanks

Massimiliano 

P_20180417_183912_vHDR_Auto.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 23/03/2018 at 3:03 PM, WillyChang said:

GPM steering rack look here http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/09/tamiya-cc-01-unimog-upgrades-installation/3/

P1050778.jpg

 

CVDs are universal driveshafts to replace your "dogbones"

gpm-scc245-2.jpg

 

I run both of the above, on my CV01 I’m on the second of both too, CVDs can still break!

The steering rack kit is essential if you’re going in dirt, my stock one was binding up on the first run out! 

But do make sure to check both ends of the rotary shaft, you have to screw one end on after you stick it through the chassis, that screw must have locktite on it. But on my second I just fitted I found the other end came lose very quickly, so keep an eye on it.  If the ends do work loose the flats on the shaft will quickly become damaged. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 15/04/2018 at 8:41 AM, holyhope said:

Hi to all! 

It was arrived the new motor and i will test it asap. 

Meanwhile could tell me anyone if it is possible a thing like in the photo? 

My diff unscrew itself and start slip! No broken thing or similar I only rescrew the screw and all work right! Eheh

An Info anyone know if there is for cc01 chassis a rear diff locking via remote? Like on traxxas TRX4 defender? 

Thanks

Massimiliano 

P_20180414_183603_vHDR_Auto.jpg

Yes they come out easily, so need locktite for sure! Mine came out & chewed up the diff case!

image.thumb.jpeg.a26fe1b3890bac57f2cf65251ee66f18.jpeg

I also stripped the splines out of the diff later, water got in & that didn’t help, it’s packed with 1:1 grease now.image.thumb.jpeg.b8858803e805579c667d3781076e9602.jpeg

 

Have a seach for the mod to add extra bearings in the diff case if you have it apart again too. I forgot now when it goes but an 850 bearing is used, it helps keep backlash correct on the pinion, someone told me in one of my posts about CC-01 some time ago. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Andyrt200 said:

Have a seach for the mod to add extra bearings in the diff case if you have it apart again too. I forgot now when it goes but an 850 bearing is used, it helps keep backlash correct on the pinion, someone told me in one of my posts about CC-01 some time ago. 

Yes.

When you replace all the kit bushings with ballbearings, you'll have spare 3x 850s and many 1150s :) 

The backside of the diff (screws end) there is space to slip in 1x 850 & 1x 1150 between the diff case and the new ballbearing. 

It's just extra support. Some say it prevents the bevels from chewing out; I've never killed a diff yet but I do it anyway. (Gotta upcycle those bushings!)

The other 2x 850s I stuff them into the centre shaft... there's a perfect hole each end right where the universal joint screws to. They do a good job of keeping grit out of the 1150 ballbearing, mine almost never needs cleaning after that.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...