Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero

[WillyChang 1814]

On 16 April 2018 at 4:37 AM, holyhope said:

thanks for info! To tell you the true on-road my Pajero slip a lot and flip over very mutch time.... this is because I steer to tight and with blocked diff i have stability problem. BUT if I use off-road it is stuck not aways but 80% times without rear diff lock... So for my driving skill it is better rear diff lock! If you can tell me some advice how to drive my RC in heavy off-road with diff open... I will learn very soon and maybe I can always keep rear diff open.

Your running might be different to mine 

My fleet of CC01 are soccermom mobiles  they stay mostly on the highway = Tarmac racetrack or garden path. They go "off-road" only when their drivers lose control  and crash off the track. CC01s are better than touringcars for noobs as they look more real, makes them SLOW DOWN FOR CORNERS and they don't get stuck after every crash.

Even when we take them to the local off-road track for a change... that ground is packed hard & when not racing it's covered by old carpet for protection. They don't go fast enough to catch air over jumps, they just drive over them like scale hills. 

So yeah, soccermom duties  I invite out friends of the kids, take them to the tracks with the CC01s. 

So sad these days so far ALL of them kiddies today have NEVER seen nor driven an RC car before  ok ok some might own toy cars/picoZ/tinyQuad but none as big... someone gotta introduce RC to the next generation!!!  

[Andyrt200 201]

7 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Your running might be different to mine 

My fleet of CC01 are soccermom mobiles  they stay mostly on the highway = Tarmac racetrack or garden path. They go "off-road" only when their drivers lose control  and crash off the track. CC01s are better than touringcars for noobs as they look more real, makes them SLOW DOWN FOR CORNERS and they don't get stuck after every crash.

Even when we take them to the local off-road track for a change... that ground is packed hard & when not racing it's covered by old carpet for protection. They don't go fast enough to catch air over jumps, they just drive over them like scale hills. 

So yeah, soccermom duties  I invite out friends of the kids, take them to the tracks with the CC01s. 

So sad these days so far ALL of them kiddies today have NEVER seen nor driven an RC car before  ok ok some might own toy cars/picoZ/tinyQuad but none as big... someone gotta introduce RC to the next generation!!!  

Ha yes, with locked diffs you have to slow right down for corners. With open diff when the truck / car starts to lean over the weight is taking off the inside wheels & they start to spin so that slows the truck down. Locked diffs means all wheels always going the same speed, you have to do the slowing down! 

Yes the CC01 is a great first car, when ever any of my sons friends want a go I always give them the CC01 first, with the proper front bumper on its almost indestructible. 

I like the massive Tamiya decal on the side so the new kids know what it is too!

They do look good without the big decals too though

[holyhope 5]

On 29/3/2018 at 11:08 AM, holyhope said:

 

Hi thanks all for the many answer!

I not understand very good all your info but I will read with more patient this evening and maybe understand all! eheh! Technique for drive RC is a new world for me, so many terms i not know yet!

BUT NOW I HAVE A QUESTION! Andyrt200  As you can see I have the same of your wheel... but on my pajero do not fit!!! I quote a my old topic where I do a photo!

How you adapt it? As i can see you not have a hex , because an hex have not a screw outing from the center wheel.. so what kind of operation you have performed? can you send me a photo of the INTERNAL SIDE of the wheel as my photo?

Willy tells me to use dremel but in this way I must not mount the beadlock! In your photo  you still have mounted the bead lock (or maybe in internal side you have not mounted???) 

Ah, I foreget to say: Nice color red :-) 

thanks very mutch

Massimiliano

[Andyrt200 201]

49 minutes ago, holyhope said:

Hi thanks all for the many answer!

I not understand very good all your info but I will read with more patient this evening and maybe understand all! eheh! Technique for drive RC is a new world for me, so many terms i not know yet!

BUT NOW I HAVE A QUESTION! Andyrt200  As you can see I have the same of your wheel... but on my pajero do not fit!!! I quote a my old topic where I do a photo!

How you adapt it? As i can see you not have a hex , because an hex have not a screw outing from the center wheel.. so what kind of operation you have performed? can you send me a photo of the INTERNAL SIDE of the wheel as my photo?

Willy tells me to use dremel but in this way I must not mount the beadlock! In your photo  you still have mounted the bead lock (or maybe in internal side you have not mounted???) 

Ah, I foreget to say: Nice color red :-) 

thanks very mutch

Massimiliano

Metallic orange actually  but thanks!

Sorry, I only speak English & I’m not too good at that! Hopefully you’ll understand better later. 

Maybe you have put the bead lock rings in on the opposite side of the wheels to me. I have those big squares on the outside & the little round ones on the inside, that way there is less to catch. But they still need trimming down some how. 

Yes I used a tool like a dremel but cheeper copy, is fine for not much use. Maybe a file will do but stainless steel is hard! 

[holyhope 5]

Hi!

Yes it is my foult for not understanding... sorry!

ok you have a little bit cut the beadlocks! ok! i will do this very soon! Maybe before I wait the hex... 

What is your wheel size? 1.9" yes?

but you have rise your Pajero? I must flip down to up the rear attachmenets and in front attach bodyshell to the upper hole, otherwise my tyre (1.9" too...) touch bodyshell....

thanks

Massimiliano

[WillyChang 1814]

4 hours ago, Andyrt200 said:

Yes I used a tool like a dremel but cheeper copy, is fine for not much use. Maybe a file will do but stainless steel is hard! 

Put wheel in power drill.

Lean file against offending bits.

done 

[holyhope 5]

ahah will OK!!!!!

Andyrt can you tell me what config of chassis and bodyshell have? because on this way in my pajero my bodyshell touch the tyre!

thanks

Massimilioano

[Andyrt200 201]

3 hours ago, holyhope said:

ahah will OK!!!!!

Andyrt can you tell me what config of chassis and bodyshell have? because on this way in my pajero my bodyshell touch the tyre!

thanks

Massimilioano

My tyres are 1.9s I think 96mm anyway, have a look at my old thread from when I was fitting them:

I think I put more details about them there. I said in that I was going to rase the suspension but in the end I just moved the adjustable springs mount down the front shock body a bit after making cuts out of the front arms so the front ran higher then. I’m sure I left the rear end as it was in the end, but do you have the 4 links holding the rear axle in place? You can see them in my pictures of the under side, they were all blue once! They hold the rear axle much more firmly so could be part of the reason you find yours touching if you have the plastic arms still on the back of yours. My body is in the stock location.

My tyres do rub on my rubber arch liners I made a tiny bit but it still runs fine

[holyhope 5]

Hi!

Thanks for your info!

I have see your other topic and it is very very very interesting!!!

I will try asap! thanks

Massimiliano

[78Triumph 2610]

On 3/21/2018 at 11:18 AM, WillyChang said:

Currently a car on workbench has got "stroke extension" mod on its rear end that lets the axle drop down further... but I'm not convinced it does anything helpful either - axle can fall down further but if there's no weight on that wheel it don't make any grip, huh? I can't see any improvement...

 

 

I always thought the exact same thing with that mod, if it's just hanging there with no weight on it, what's really the point?  I guess in some cases the tire might be able to grab, but to what effect? 

[WillyChang 1814]

5 hours ago, 78Triumph said:

I always thought the exact same thing with that mod, if it's just hanging there with no weight on it, what's really the point?  I guess in some cases the tire might be able to grab, but to what effect? 

Actually proving worse than that  after some running found:-

1. with less weight "hanging" the car tractionrolls even more 
2. the upper/short axle links are popping off 

this car otherwise all stock geometry just the drop shock mod; running on tarmac. Rear diff locked. Running against 4 other CC01s.

What good is it for? Mebbe "looks good" for your articulation pic? 

 

[holyhope 5]

Hi to all! 

I still not have bearing but I'm assembling the sobstitution of dogbone. Now i have change only one and I want to increase the steering angle but i not find WHERE cut the angle limiter... Where and what is it? 

Thanks

Massimiliano 

[holyhope 5]

I install new 17.5 motor and original ESC.

I cut one thing that maybe is limiter and it is a plastic bar (are two i cut only one per side) located near where wheel is Connected

I try to steer at Max position in both side and in this photo there are the limit... 

I make a good job or I cut the wrong pieces? 

Thanks

Massimiliano 

[WillyChang 1814]

"Steering Stops" described above.

Has your steering angle increased?  

[holyhope 5]

wow fantastic!!!

You are very fantastic! have an explanation for everything!

I have cut only the part of the C-hub named "steering stop" I not increase suspension...

This eavening I will cut more thing! Maybe arrive Bearing so I can perform a complete work!

 

I need now only TWO info!!!!

1) If I buy aftermarket upgrade parts on geek or ali or other similar site... If I buy C-Hub and Lower arm or similar, are already cutted (prepared) or I must perform this job another time?

2) What is the "correct" name for REAR body post? (the two thing discussed before that I flip bottom to up for rising car) Because I'm searching if I can buy another pair that maybe if less higher (so I can keep it at bottom and have a "bit" rise)... I hope I correct explain what I mean!

Edition: attach there is a photo of this pieces that I'm asking the name

 

Thanks

MAssimiliano

[WillyChang 1814]

Nah don't bother trimming the "more suspension travel" mod. Effect is minimal and you'll risk the arm falling so low the dogbone falls out... usually after you try putting longer shocks etc etc.  stock works fine

i don't think there's any special name for the rear bodypost  haven't seen many option company make that anyway. Stock part is strong enough, when I've broken that area it's usually the chassis tub breaking off its ear  not many CC01s use it anyway, just the 2 pajeros and Jeep Wrangler afaik... maybe CRV or Isuzu Mu too hmm... I haven't built/run those yet.

[WillyChang 1814]

5 hours ago, holyhope said:

Because I'm searching if I can buy another pair that maybe if less higher (so I can keep it at bottom and have a "bit" rise)... I hope I correct explain what I mean

Hmm that might explain the DIY attempts at drawing up alternative height body mounts... I know I've seen some around before, maybe have a look at Thingiverse or Shapeways - definitely someone has designed those somewhere. 

[holyhope 5]

Hi Thanks for your answer!

DIY is acronimus of?!?!? Sorry for my ignorance :-(

This eavening I will visit the shop you says

The problem of rear bodypost is that in normal way is too low and if I put something between it and chassis I make it more lower because is placed down the chassis. In other position (flip down to up) it is very higher and putting something between I will increase more the higher! I need a something in the middle but it is not possible!

@Andyrt200 you how resolve that? I have visit your post 

 but I not discover how you rise the bottom part of your pajero.... Or maybe is not raised? In you thread in the photo where is present your son I can see tha chassis without the bodywhell and the famous Rear BodyPost are in the original position.... So can you tell me that with 1.9" wheel and original position of bodypost the wheel not touch the bodyshell?

With my Pajero at bottom the wheel touch the bodysheel with supsension putted down

thanks

Massimiliano

[WillyChang 1814]

DIY = Do It Yourself 

ThingiVerse is not a store, it's a library of 3D files ppl have shared with the world... modern DIY = 3D printing 

Shapeways is a 3D printing bureau, they can print for you from items designed by the world.

[holyhope 5]

Ok... I'm not familiar with terms! ahahah

OK I will do it myself, but I prefer with Iron or cut and glue plastic! ahah it is not easy to produce a custom piece for me eheh

I see here; https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/tech/rc-cars/ and i confuse it with an upgrade parts seller! Sorry for mistake ;-(

eheh!

For now I wait before trying to create my custom parts!

Asap I cut with dremel the extra iron of beadlocks and try to adjust bodyshell without create a new custom parts.... other way.... i will create!

But i'm confidente that @Andyrt200 have the solution eheh! He use my identical wheel with original body shell... there is a way,, I'm sure! I wait him before! eheh

 

thanks

Massimiliano

[WillyChang 1814]

Ok they both have something  

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/?tag=cc01

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:716605

knew some were out there!!

[holyhope 5]

WOW!!!

<3 <3 <3 <3

YOU DON'T LINK THAT!!! NOW I MUST BUY IT!!!! Oh no, my ****ed poor wallet :-(

Ok.. tomorrow, after test with 1,9" wheel, I will buy it!

****! I must spent money! ahahahh

thanks, you are very very very a pool of every information about RC!

Thanks

Massimiliano

[holyhope 5]

Meanwhile I wait @Andyrt200 I cut the part on C Hub! I cut steering stop and modify for dognone clarence.

I not modify for downtravel and not modify lower arm

See the photo... It is correct my modify? 

Thank

Massimiliano 

[WillyChang 1814]

yeah looks about right - the 2 bars behind that c-hub. I snip them off with sidecutters.

Do your knuckles turn bigger angle now?  

(I don't know if the plastic steering rack parts do anything to limit the throw. When building CC01s I usually do the trimming & alloy rack at the same time. And good CVDs... first time you run it watch out for clicking at full lock - if no CVDs or your CVDs aren't big-angle enough it will cause clicking.)

[holyhope 5]

Hi Willy

The two bars you say are on side not behind... correct? You mean the two bars that must be cutted like in the instruction, correct? now I attach here a new photo of the side of my C-Hub where you can see that are cutted away

I not tested yet because it is very late yesterday :-( And post have my **** bearing on its storage! Today my mother go to post and take this damned bearing and I will assembly all, finally!!!

The CVD I have tested and work as original dogbone but I tested when I not have cut the plastic blocks eheh

thanks 

Massimiliano