Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero

[WillyChang]

Ya the 2 bars block the arm of the knuckle from turning fully. 

I think they put it there because if knuckles turned fully the kit dogbones will jam & chatter. 

[holyhope]

Ok Perfect Many thanks!

Today, **** italian post, the post do not give my ****et packet to my father because , other delegation, they need documents and other burocratic modules... damned ****ed italian post... Tomorrow is holiday in italy so I need to wait untill the day after tomorrow... ****ed post.

Waiting to check my wheel 1,9" with body post... what i can improve to my car? I change old dogbone bearing (.... waiting in post) hex ... I not have still buy the steering alloy... in your opinion is a good buy? if I remeber correct YES! And I still not have rear suspension kit in alloy (but original plastic) maybe is a good buy... or te C-hub and front suspension in alloy, are a good buy or unusefull (the after mark are already cutted, yes?) 

 

thanks

Massimiliano

[WillyChang]

haha yeah tomorrow is holiday here too downunder... ANZACDay... something about going off to fight in Europe  100+ yrs ago. 

meh... what about enjoying the CC01 for what it is - an RC SUV  it's not going to do anything particularly fantastic, it's 25yo but IMHO it's more fun with its limitations. 

Save your $$$ to buy your next RC 

[holyhope]

****!

I NOT WANT SPEND OTHER MANY TO ANOTHER RC!!!!

Because to avoid spend 40/50€ maybe I will spend 400/500€ !!!! Oh my god!!! 

ahahahahahha!

Thanks a lot! 

I will take a picture after mounting all upgrade parts waiting me at post...

Thanks,

Massimiliano

[WillyChang]

Resistance is futile mio amico.  no known cure for RC disease 

[holyhope]

ahah willy you are right!

I forget vaccin some day ago and I was contaged.... Now I 'm very ill and there is no cure...

ahah

Massimiliano

[holyhope]

Hi to all! 

I try to Mount 1.9"  wheel with attach correctly flipped down and it is in obstruction! How it is possible my is with interference and the Pajero of @Andyrt200 not?! 

Massimiliano 

[WillyChang]

On my rear body mount I usually put 2-3 rubber o-ring for spacers. It pushes body backwards, I like it tight against the bodyclip. No rattling.

[holyhope]

Hi Willy!

Ok, good idea! I have not rubber oring but some in iron (Washer), maybe I could use that!

Ok ok ok, now I work ahha

[WillyChang]

hehehe holiday today... would you like to know what I drew up 

(you might notice the added o-ring on the black bodymount) 

[holyhope]

How! How you made it! 

Where you buy? 

D a m n! Now I must buy... 

[WillyChang]

hahaha it's just a quick rush job for proof of concept  

i copied original part for dimensions & location of bottom hole, the added 4 more on top  

Took longer to work out what to do for the post... I couldn't put in all 5 posts together, body won't fit... so instead I made holes in the part to plug the post into so they're selectable how high. Amazingly works ok 

it's pretty ugly though 

 

[holyhope]

Ahah

Not ugly! the body sheel will, I suppose, cover your work! So ugly or not is not visible and it is a very good job (Very good anyway, if it will visible, too!).

You have made it with a 3d printer, isn't it? So with a caliber you have measured the old bodypost and printed! Yea! 

Meanwhile I talk to you one bad (or good!) idea: I want to try to increase stability of my CC01.... So I want to open diff rear and put an hex extender +20mm to the wheel. For the second part it is all ok, I hope, for the first I have a bad (or maybe good) idea! I read that some RC high end, like traxxas or similar, have rear diff sealed where you can put inside oil or strong grease to have an half way between open and closed diff!

Ok, I have a strong grease at my home that I use for agricoltural.... I use that for my tractor or agricoltural machinary... It is very strong and it use it is as lubriicant but in my cc01 chassis maybe can help rear diff open to get same torque when one wheel slip! 

what you think of my idea?

thanks

Masssimiliano

 

[WillyChang]

Be careful that many of the thick petroleum greases are made by mixing solids in a gel... after a while it will separate into solid powder and liquid oil. Some of these chemicals may also be damaging to plastics. 

I too have many big jars of grease in my garage in every colour of the rainbow white/red/blue/yellow/green/black  The only RC I use them on is the HPI Baja 1/5th (because HPI says so!), not on anything smaller.

To give a sticky action to unsealed gear diffs, Tamiya makes AW Grease.

You can squeeze the entire 3g tube into 1 diff but it's not necessary, even if you only put 1/3rd (1g) into each diff it's enough to do the job. It's expensive but it's good - We've used it for ~20yrs, those cars still going good today & the AW grease hasn't separated apart.

[holyhope]

On 18/4/2018 at 3:35 AM, WillyChang said:

Yes.

When you replace all the kit bushings with ballbearings, you'll have spare 3x 850s and many 1150s  

The backside of the diff (screws end) there is space to slip in 1x 850 & 1x 1150 between the diff case and the new ballbearing. 

It's just extra support. Some say it prevents the bevels from chewing out; I've never killed a diff yet but I do it anyway. (Gotta upcycle those bushings!)

The other 2x 850s I stuff them into the centre shaft... there's a perfect hole each end right where the universal joint screws to. They do a good job of keeping grit out of the 1150 ballbearing, mine almost never needs cleaning after that.

 

I'm assembly bearing! do you have a photo about the position of extra bearing? now I'm here!

[WillyChang]

You mean in rear axle?

heres a neat pic I stole off da web...

 

[holyhope]

Hi Willy! Wow fantastic pic and very explaned!

This eavening I will close my rear axle and,after see this pic, I have stimed 8 bearing: 2 con the axle with the gear connected to transmission (one big near transmission and one smaller near diff) and three for each axle: one big at external, one smoller near the previously bearing and one like in photo near diff.

I have already put some grease (specific for this purpose) insie ALL the chassis of axle for increas moving and between gear of transmission and differential. I put a lot of grease inside bearing and long the axle. Inside the diff I place a grease down the gear and between gear (where there will be moving if one wheel slip) I try to place some grease that I says before very string. If it will be a bad solution I will reopen and change grease!

edit: I attach 2 pic: the first one is with the grase that I use for lock a bit diff and the second is my diff just I have disassembled (is present the lock diff yet). You can see here, for each axle, 2 plastic bearing that I will change with real bearing and one small metal fixed bearing that I will change with real bearing; you can see the small axle for transmission, there is only one plstic bearing that I will change with real one and another metal bearing (fixed, without ball) that I will change with real one. So in total 5 plastic bearing (2 left axle, 2 right axe, 1 transm axle) and 3 metal bearing (one for each axle) will be sobstituted with 8 real ball bearing (5 bigger sobstituting the plasting and 3 smaller sobstituting the metal).  With your very good photo and my... Now I have undestand (I hope!!!!) Correctly where place ball bearing! Thanks!

Ok! I will keep you informed!

thanks

Massimiliano

[Andyrt200]

Sorry to keep you waiting!

My body is at the normal hight & the tyres don’t touch. I did trim a small amount of the body away if you look at the rear arches there 

 

vers them when it was new 

There are little bits sticking down at the back of the rear wheel arch, they had got damaged anyway so I just trimmed them off. Hopefully you can see in the top picture what I trimmed off. 

Also I have the 4 link suspension on the rear 

that is the 4 blue bars that hold the rear axle in place. I suspect they hold it much more firmly, if you still have the plastic arms they may well change how far up the wheels go, from memory they were very bendy. I only ran these wheels after I fitted the 4 link rear suspension. 

You can see those 4 link bars holding the rear axle here

[Andyrt200]

Sorry I just realised all those pictures were from before I trimmed the body. With the new wheels on you can see the damaged bits.

So I just cut it off. 

The body has much more damage now!

[holyhope]

Wow Andy! Very fantastic! I have choosed to trim new hole on back of my Pajero and flip up my rear body post! 

I have Mount all bearing and put grase in all position! Both in front and rear diff I put my strong grease for Lock a bit (but not complete) the diff! 

I have Mount the hex extender... Maybe will be more stable in this way! Ahah

Here there is the result! 

edit: I forget to say!!! I buy another RC. Other then Pajero i have a Mercedes CLK black and I buy a very old pieces of story, this one used (only 60€), I buy the Tamiya CLK DTM 2002 old will still the screw instead clip for bodyshell. I will made a dedicated post for that. It is only for have an economic rc identical to mine (my it is NOT amg version but ... at least it is black ahah! the color is identical ahah)

[holyhope]

First test on off-road:

https://youtu.be/QcokSvI6a0E

Yea! :-)

[holyhope]

Hi bad news

I Lost one metal bearing (that is not bearing in True but it is one that is not present in optional bearing but exist only metal) is the BA10 located on the Gear that transmit Power from front to rear with transmission axle.. Is the Gear that you can unscrew from bottom

Where i can buy it? 

Thanks 

[Andyrt200]

eBay is probably the easiest place to get one. 

It looks good with the hex extensions on!

Your YouTube link didn’t work for me though ☹️

[holyhope]

HiHi you are right... Here the new upload: 

 

Meanwhile I discover that my screw on cover motor are not good (The hole for screw is too big now). So Gear lift a bit and no transmission to rear.. 

I must fix.... But how? New screw of a big size? Or there is another way? 

[holyhope]

Hi!

I solve the problem uscing a bigger screw... the old (and original) are not good anymore.... The hole in true is not good...

So Now it is working good!

Now I'm thinking about next RC eheh!  I see previous advice of Willy and slash 4x4 is what I want! A very fast RC and able to go to off road! 

I want something very fast (maybe without motor, I can buy a custom motor after) maybe an onroad car but it is too limited.. so maybe something "bit" off road is better! I NOT WANT SOMETHING HIGH THAT FLIP UP AT EVERY SHORT STEERING!!! like my cc01 but something very stable and very near to earth (very near as need for not flip up but that can be go on offroad).

My pajero could be a bit a scaler... i want something similar to slash or rally or similar... maybe slash is too high....

Slash is too expensive... something more chiper... please! cost like my cc01 or similar (about 200€ finished with remote and servo) or a bit less eheh

are good the tamiya like boomerang plasma bigwig etcetera but are there enough high to run in a dust or small offroad?

thanks

Massimiliano