Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero

[WillyChang]

The screws to gearbox covers I always change to M3 machine tread (vs selftapping) and I measure each hole to see how deep & use the longest possible screw - some are a lot longer than std 10mm. 

Some of the screws can also poke out the other side... these screws you can change to even longer machine thread screws then put a 3mm nut on there.

 

If you only change to a "bigger" screw eg M4 vs M3 the repair is only temporary, soon it will strip out again.

 

Best is to change whole tub to a new piece, it's not expensive. Then rebuild using M3 machine thread screws, they hold better than selftapping. (But takes longer screwing them in  )

[holyhope]

Hi Willy! Ok many thanks! Now I have just replaced the screw... If they will came out I will use screw As you suggest! 

For new RC type have you son idea with info I Toldo you before? 

Thanks Massimiliano 

[WillyChang]

I thought you said you WEREN'T BUYING ANY NEW RC 

[holyhope]

****!!! You are right....  but it is tu funny!! 

Here some new photo! Today Dirt track! Eheh! Asap a video of today! 

But one question.. How to wash? I clean body Shell with shower water! The chassis, with all Electronics... Idem because I not have better idea... I pull out battery before. My receiver and servo are marine version so are waterproof! I hope ESC too... I will wait many hours before attach battery 

Meanwhile I wait to buy a new RC ahah 

And here is the video! 

 

[WillyChang]

"waterproof" electronics don't mean it's meant to work UNDERwater  but only for small splashes... but battery & motor still don't like water. They'll work first time, but if you want them to keep working gotta think of ways to keep them dry.

Cars like the Slash have sealed boxes for RX etc... but after getting wet/washed I will open up all these sealed areas to let air dry. If you don't, water from condensation will still get inside... soon your box is sloshing with liquid.

 

oh remember all those shiny new ballbearings you just installed?  every time it's been to the beach or run in mud... every ballbearing that has touched water (every axle & everywhere facing outside) should be removed, flushed with cleaner, reoiled & reassembled  otherwise if you put them away wet they'll rust faster than a Furd at the seaside.

Even supposedly-Waterproof cars like Slash the screws will rust & their ballbearings jam. Replacing ballbearings after beach driving is routine maintenance  after a while it's too much work to get a Slash wet.

Compared to my friends who go 1:1 4WDing though... after every trip through a river etc, they gotta change all the fluids in engine/gearbox/axles and filters... all that's like $500! Plus fix whatever else damage they've done on trail.

[holyhope]

Hi Willy!. 

Thanks for info! No my Pajerino is drying at sun! In a few hour I will clean with humid scottex and clean bearing. 

One last thing it is not good yet... Cale between motor and ESC! Esc is TMiya TBLE02s and motor is sensore gool rc

In motor there is a strange connector... How could fix compatibility? Change ESC connectior or motor? Motor is very hard to desolder... And what type of connector I can use? 

See photo! 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

[holyhope]

Hi to all!

I have solder three cable and three connector... IT IS ONLY A TEMPORARY WORK!!! I have order both single and complete cable

Kit is herE: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/3pcs-lot-300mm-30cm-3-5mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-RC-Brushless-Motor-ESC-Connectors-Extension-Cable/32817561223.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.88Usk9 I must cut to keep only part with male connector and solder to my motor

separated cable are here: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/ZTOYL-1-M-Calibro-14-AWG-Heatproof-Silicone-Morbido-Gel-di-Silice-Wire-Connect-Cable-Per/32839477966.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Gc94Q0 but I have not connector colored... ****! I have buyied all three color orange yellow blue

 

So when all arrive i will cut the pre connected connector and solder to my motor or realize three new cable from spare cable and use my connector (red colored.... I have only that...)

Here attach a photo of my temporary work....

thanks Massimiliano

[WillyChang]

On 6 May 2018 at 7:16 PM, holyhope said:

In motor there is a strange connector... How could fix compatibility? Change ESC connectior or motor? Motor is very hard to desolder... And what type of connector I can use? 

 

Heh.

You might be amused to discover... those 3 coloured nubs on the motor are actually PLUGS  and they plug into copper nipples which are soldered to the circuitboard poking out of the motor.

The plugs are just tubes, grip them with pliers & they should pull off.

You can cut the ESC bullet plugs off & resolder onto your newly discovered corally plugs. Or sometimes when I'm lazy & only installing temporarily the bullet sockets can be squeezed over the motor plugs.

However there's no standard motor plug size  common are 3.5mm, 4mm, 5mm etc and every company adds their own flavour too.

[holyhope]

Hi Willy

many thanks!  i not supposed it is possible to pull out due color of plugs! because if i want to remove I musto to leave out the colored cover too...

So for now the work was did as in the next photo... asap arrive new connector i will change in a good way and definitive....

 

Meanwhile I'm dreaming on my new RC but slash is to expensive.... 

 

thanks!

Massimiliano

[WillyChang]

Motor leads are labelled A/B/C to match A/B/C on the ESC for sensored motor... colours aren't standardised afaik 

 

[holyhope]

Hi Willy!

Ok ok ok! I not know that color are not standardized! For now in all motor all color are matched with correct A B C.

Ok Fine.... Now I have solder wire in this way... I wait cable ordered and i will solder the wire in the motor, previous I will desolder all existing connector etc, so I will have a very clean circuite!

Ah: Today I order a dremel with some insert and optional. I need it not only for my RC but for other passions eheh! So it will be a right buy (I hope)

thanks

Massimiliano

[holyhope]

Hi!

I have tested my Pajerino yesterday with a "good" satisfaction!

It is very hard to stuck it but a few time the diff still slip one wheel and leave other blocked to earth with no torque :-( maybe the grease I buy is not enought strong... I need to change it with a more hard one! 

But the big problem is that it seems not steering mutch... not the limiter etc but the "power" of steering: it is very hard to make it steer and some time I need to rise up in my hand (and leave the wheel NOT touching earth) to complete steer or go ahead to increase power steering... 

i have just buyied a steering kit in alluminiom it is on arrive... I buy one "normal" kit with maybe a plastic bearing (this one:  https://it.aliexpress.com/item/DQR-RC-AUTO-1-10-Alluminio-Sterzo-Cuscinetto-Campana-manovella-Montaggio-Argento-TAMIYA-CC01-CC048-RC123/32853460176.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.r5yyAK   ) maybe I can resolve with this kit.... I don't know!

I'm asking two more info:

1. For diff, with my only PARTIAL success, what gradation of strong you advice me to buy? On one shop near my home are present grease from 100.000 to 1.000.000 of strong degree... So if I need to change it, this time, I will buy a right one! I want to put in my rear diff and in my front diff, if you advice me i can put different strong grease in the two diff. (some post ago you tell me a Tamiya grease but I not found its strong power )

2. what I can do for my steering? is possible that after using it on mud and water I break something? maybe servo? (it is Carson Marine ....) or maybe the ESC?!=?!?

 

thanks 

Massimiliano

[holyhope]

Hi All

I'm trying to use 2.2" wheel! Now with dremel I can cut As I want... 

What you think about my RAW work in photo? 

I must cut mutch the connection between two part of body Shell... It will be instable and subjected to break? I must put something to increase strenght? 

Now I must adapt a bit the body Shell and finalize the chassis in a good way... 

Thanks 

Massimiliano 

[WillyChang]

I hope you're not a practising architect or building engineer... 

[holyhope]

Hi!

Today arrived my kit steering but... NOT WORK!!!!

I perform two video as you can see below,,,, It my wrong mount or is the item defecting?

The bar that connect up to down have one side not good and the pieces "slip" a bit inside...

 

edit: @WillyChang I see only now your answer! Ahah I'm an Engineer... a computer engineer for your lucky eheh

 

thanks 

Massi

 

 

 

 

[holyhope]

Hi to all!  How are you?! 

Me not very fine! Yesterday my chassis broke :-( ****... I have cut too mutch ....

In your opinion what I can do?! Buy another chassis, buy another complete tamiya (maybe pajero metal top, that is CC01 and "old" version of real pajero model) or maybe buy another type of RC?! In a shop near my home is selled an used chassis buggy for 200€ and I must buy all other else (wheel, motor, remote, etc...) that is full metal and original predisposed for nitro...

Massi

[njmlondon]

3 hours ago, holyhope said:

Hi to all!  How are you?! 

Me not very fine! Yesterday my chassis broke :-( ****... I have cut too mutch ....

In your opinion what I can do?! Buy another chassis, buy another complete tamiya (maybe pajero metal top, that is CC01 and "old" version of real pajero model) or maybe buy another type of RC?! In a shop near my home is selled an used chassis buggy for 200€ and I must buy all other else (wheel, motor, remote, etc...) that is full metal and original predisposed for nitro...

Massi

I did wonder how much longer it would last!

Try out a MST CFX... awesome kit. It is what a CC02 should be. If you get it from RCMart it is a great price and I did not get stung by customs either.

[holyhope]

Hi Njmlondon

Thanks for your answer! Yes... it break very soon.. 

I see this.

 

http://www.rcmart.com/532149-front-motor-crawler-p-71110.html?cPath=1102_1106

seems have a good steering angle, a good diif and not Front Indipendent Suspension but same system rear and front. 

very good!!! But it is possible to set up a bodyshell?

And I not want motor and ESC ****! I search if there is a version without it!!!! eheh!

It will be fantastic if have locking diff! ****!

thanks

Massimiliano

[Badcrumble]

This one?

http://www.rcmart.com/532148-front-motor-high-performance-crawler-p-71109.html

Tamico also stock them if you would prefer to buy from within the EU.

Reports on here suggest they work well with shells normally used for the CC01 (though I don’t know whether the body holes line up).

[holyhope]

Very fantastic this one!!! Is  the same of the before post but without motor!!!

It can be a very good increase! Fantastic!!!

Now I'm thinking about if buy this one (that is very fantastic) or maybe a TRX-4 (Traxxas) or maybe change all my mind and go with a buggy.... D A M N ! It is too hard to choise!!! Do you now some one sell an USED TRX-4?!

the advantage of TRX-4 is that have locking diff  via remote that is very very very a good thing!!!

Tha Chassis you posted from RC mart have diff always open, right? and not blockable? there isn't something similar to this chassis that have locking diff?

thanks

Massimiliano

[shenlonco]

5 hours ago, holyhope said:

Very fantastic this one!!! Is  the same of the before post but without motor!!!

It can be a very good increase! Fantastic!!!

Now I'm thinking about if buy this one (that is very fantastic) or maybe a TRX-4 (Traxxas) or maybe change all my mind and go with a buggy.... D A M N ! It is too hard to choise!!! Do you now some one sell an USED TRX-4?!

the advantage of TRX-4 is that have locking diff  via remote that is very very very a good thing!!!

Tha Chassis you posted from RC mart have diff always open, right? and not blockable? there isn't something similar to this chassis that have locking diff?

thanks

Massimiliano

traxxas just came out with the TRX4 sport lighter center gravity no 2 speed made now like normal axial type scale trucks and it looks awesome and now is only $359.00!

[holyhope]

22 minutes ago, shenlonco said:

traxxas just came out with the TRX4 sport lighter center gravity no 2 speed made now like normal axial type scale trucks and it looks awesome and now is only $359.00!

I came from ITALY!!!! And Traxxas not ship in Italy!!! :-(

In Italy cost about 550€!!! ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is better, for some thing, buy from china respect from USA... :-(

If you know some shop that have the TRX-4 in europe, please tell to me!!!

 

thanks

Massimiliano

[Badcrumble]

17 minutes ago, holyhope said:

I came from ITALY!!!! And Traxxas not ship in Italy!!! :-(

In Italy cost about 550€!!! ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is better, for some thing, buy from china respect from USA... :-(

If you know some shop that have the TRX-4 in europe, please tell to me!!!

 

thanks

Massimiliano

Tamico.de

[holyhope]

16 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Tamico.de

Yes I see:

 

https://tamico.de/TRAXXAS-TRX-4-Land-Rover-Crawler-RTR-silber

 

but it is 550€ not 389€!!!! ****!

[Badcrumble]

1 hour ago, holyhope said:

Yes I see:

https://tamico.de/TRAXXAS-TRX-4-Land-Rover-Crawler-RTR-silber

but it is 550€ not 389€!!!! ****!

I know, but they have already paid the import charges and postage costs. I think RC Mart can be expensive for posting  kits, I have only used them for parts.

We have 20% VAT plus customs ‘inspection’ charges that mean Tamico can be only slightly more expensive.

How does it work out with your taxes?