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1 hour ago, JeffSpicoli said:

anyone know how I can lower my BRAT? :)

softer springs available for the front or rear?

Hot Trick used to make a "Frog Lowering Kit" which was essentially two nylon zip-ties.  Basically, you compressed your shock springs and held them in place with the zip-ties by looping them through...

You can always use a shorter shock than the one that comes with the Frog/Brat.

Digging further, the Tamiya #50520 (Monster Beetle rear replacement) can be set for 80mm (for use with BF/MB/Frog/Brat).  You could potentially use the Tamiya #50519 and set it to 70mm.  This would lower your chassis 10mm (or 0.4 inches).  Both of these sets are large in diameter than the original Frog/Brat rear shocks so you'll need to invest in the BF shock towers or something equivalent (CRP #1622).

Here is a pix of my Frog with the Tamiya #50520s on the rear with CRP #1622s:  https://jpegbay.com/gallery/006638070-.html#1

Tamiya also makes shock spring sets, and many other RC manufacturers offer springs.  The #50520 and #50519 come with two sets of springs each, one hard and one soft.  You'll just have to experiment with them... 

Terry

 

 

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6 hours ago, Mahjik said:

I have no idea what the kit contains, but this did pop up:

https://www.hobbybanditusa.com/store/p1261/BOLINK_BL_5280%3A_Tamiya_Frog_Lowering_Kit.html

That's an interesting bit of kit!  It looks like there are some shocks in there with it...  Good find, I've never seen one before!

Terry

 

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Here is an extra that you can add to the Brat. The Tamiya  Toyota Land Cruzer 40 body. Fits nicely on the Brat chassis with no modification except adding an extention to the rear posts. Front single post is long enough and no mod required. Added leds lights on the rear, front and the light bar. Bodies can be switched in a few minutes. Leds lights are running on the # 3 button of my 3 channels Futaba radio. 

E540192F-C57B-4AD5-AB5D-17BFA26DAF45.jpeg

02459A4D-28B3-46D8-8655-50097F63B8A1.jpeg

F2A6B85D-C6DD-45C4-BEC9-9269870AB6BF.jpeg

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Not too sure if it can be done. Maybe using wider  wheel hub. I have a whole bunch in stock made of alumunum. Will certainly see if it can be done as long as the shaft is long enough to insert the wheel nut. 

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19 hours ago, Country Mike said:

can you tweak the wheels so the rear is out as far as the front? It bugs me that the front track is wider.

The main issue is that the front has a "deeper dish" than the rear, which I believe is a carry over from the original short arch Ranger.

I designed some deep dish rears a while back - if you look at my post up above (the red Brat) you can see them there.

Got them here for sale if you're interested: http://shpws.me/O9Qc

 

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Sweet! I'll be adding them to crimbo list. I hate the stance of it. 

Next up: I saw a japanese guy have an anti roll bar on the rear. Apparently tamiya, it locked the bar to those holes mid arm, clamped to the back of the gear box and went around to the other arm. He also had an adaptor on the front suspension so a damper sat horizontally and acted on both arms. I found it on instagram and awaiting reply to part numbers from him. 

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17 hours ago, Country Mike said:

Sweet! I'll be adding them to crimbo list. I hate the stance of it. 

Next up: I saw a japanese guy have an anti roll bar on the rear. Apparently tamiya, it locked the bar to those holes mid arm, clamped to the back of the gear box and went around to the other arm. He also had an adaptor on the front suspension so a damper sat horizontally and acted on both arms. I found it on instagram and awaiting reply to part numbers from him. 

The front shock is probably the Parma #12605:  http://vintage.dirt-burners.com/hop-up-index/parma/

It features front arms that have risers that hold a monoshock across the top.  

The anti-roll bar is likely the Parma #13229:  https://www.ebay.com/i/113220182551?chn=ps 

This piece isn't listed on that Parma page, so I used an ebay link.  No affiliation to the seller of that product.

Several manufacturers made this.  I think one I have on my Frog is a You-G brand.  IMO, this piece is a waste of money...

Terry

 

 

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On 10/27/2018 at 7:51 PM, Capucine said:

Here is an extra that you can add to the Brat. The Tamiya  Toyota Land Cruzer 40 body. Fits nicely on the Brat chassis with no modification except adding an extention to the rear posts. Front single post is long enough and no mod required. Added leds lights on the rear, front and the light bar. Bodies can be switched in a few minutes. Leds lights are running on the # 3 button of my 3 channels Futaba radio. 

E540192F-C57B-4AD5-AB5D-17BFA26DAF45.jpeg

02459A4D-28B3-46D8-8655-50097F63B8A1.jpeg

F2A6B85D-C6DD-45C4-BEC9-9269870AB6BF.jpeg

interesting!!!  So the brat fits the CR01 then?

My first Tamiya was a brat.. I loved the body but hated the chassis.. for this reason I’ve never picked up a re-re. 

Have always pondered what chassis to put the body on. 

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Fits perfect. Just add some inserts to the rear posts for longer posts because of the high roof of the Toyota. I bought the bodyset including all the decals etc for a cheap price online marketplace. 

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Mine was the red one, I painted the blue one for a neighbour.

Unfortunately I sold it some time ago. Would love another brat!

lnyH6JZ.jpg

Anw6ROn.jpg

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Heh... funny that this thread should re-surface now... this is a current shot of my workbench:

2019-11-08_07-30-26

The "The Manhattan Project" Project is back on!

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This is my work in progress Brat basher. Lots more to do including highlighting etc.

The paintwork is mat black, with the truck bed remaining gloss. (the pictures are terrible, so hard to see).

Ive dropped some transparent Tamiya stars on the bonnet, just playing around really.

I need to get some black wheels or paint these, white doesn't look right with black imo.

2.thumb.jpg.88ca47ea78a8c2f1417fcca0fd422bee.jpg3.thumb.jpg.2020c805101255ecbbbf542fd9337383.jpg1.thumb.jpg.96cbaaaabfb9035d2659be44ef81fb27.jpg

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Just to resurrect this thread slightly.

Think a brat may be my next project. But a few of the retailers gave stated that the Brat kit isn’t sand/waterproof as standard. What’s needed to make it sand/water resistant? Not wanting to submerge it, just worried about running on wet grass and dirt.
 

is it just a case of getting a waterproof esc/servo?

 

 

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Just having a read 🙂, the issue with deeper dish front wheels.  I made a one off spacer to fit on the rear inners and then mounted the deeper dish front wheel moulding to the rear inner.  The front wheel inner I made narrower to fit the rear wheel moulding.  Unfortunately I sold that model but pictures are below showing them sprayed black and fitted to the model I sold

 

386BDC8C-5A0F-4399-98FB-F7957DA35A4D.jpeg

7E4B4BD1-D8F3-48C1-9DF4-953FEAC6E5C4.jpeg

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On 10/16/2018 at 9:46 AM, jonboy1 said:

one i did a little while back:

IMG_0617IMG_0613IMG_0609

 

 

47 minutes ago, Toolmaker72 said:

Just having a read 🙂, the issue with deeper dish front wheels.  I made a one off spacer to fit on the rear inners and then mounted the deeper dish front wheel moulding to the rear inner.  The front wheel inner I made narrower to fit the rear wheel moulding.  Unfortunately I sold that model but pictures are below showing them sprayed black and fitted to the model I sold

I went for the easier option and modelled up some from scratch and 3D printed them :) 

 

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