ejtnt 5 Posted April 6, 2018 By the way, if you choose to switch to a lipo battery, this is the one with the best specs (at least to my knowledge), that will fit the TL-01. I recently got one, and it is the best 2s lipo I have tried.https://tamico.de/LRP-ANTIX-5200mAh-76V-LiHV-45C-LiPo-Car-Stickpack I am not associated with that store in any way, it is just that the LRP website is under maintenance. There are 2 lipos from Carson that also fit very well, but the specs are worse and they are almost at the same price. The second one is the spec battery for the german tamiya eurocup and I can confirm is a very solid battery.http://www.carson-modelsport.com/de/produkte/elektronik/akkus/produktdetails.htm?sArtNr=500608145 http://www.carson-modelsport.com/de/produkte/elektronik/akkus/produktdetails.htm?sArtNr=500608098 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 6, 2018 Duh the wheels were on wrong... all sorted now as they are all off in favour of some buggy wheels and tyres which won’t wear out as fast. Took it for a spin today and it’s brutal fast, plus I hadn’t glued the tyres so that stopped testing but I’m very happy wit this car. The shocks will be upgraded soon as the stock friction ones are very bouncy. I measured these stock ones at about 62mm eye to eye... need to hunt my spares out for something suitable. I also noticed there are two holes on the front hubs to connect the steering links, the ones currently chosen ( nearest the chassis) give some toe in.. looks like if I swap to the two outer ones ( away from chassis) it might put the front wheels straight or give toe out? I’ll check later tonight. Thanks for the battery suggestion but this has spacers to lengthen the battery area so my 2s HPI Plazma 3000Msh fits ok. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 7, 2018 Well it seems those other holes on the front hub give Toe out when used so it’s either toe in or out?! I’ve used opposite holes now (outer hole on left wheel and the inner hole on the right wheel) and have now got the front wheels pointing straight ahead. Next step is to find some nice 62mm oil shocks, any recommendations guys? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 4515 Posted April 7, 2018 CVA 50519 can be built 64mm so 62mm would be easy with an o ring inside. I think Gmade shocks come in 62mm eye to eye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 7, 2018 Super thanks Thunder, but I might try and source some cheaper alternatives if possible. In the meantime.... new wheels for the Baja King (now glued) My daughter loved chasing it around the garden 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 4985 Posted April 7, 2018 On 05/04/2018 at 9:47 PM, TurnipJF said: Is it my imagination, or do you have the two back wheels fitted on the left side and the two front ones fitted on the right? Is it my imagination, or has it happened again? I daresay the side with the beefy tyres front and back looks rather good, in a Manta Ray / Thunder Shot kind of way. Might be worth simply fitting rear wheels and tyres all round to avoid confusion. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 7, 2018 13 minutes ago, TurnipJF said: Is it my imagination, or has it happened again? I daresay the side with the beefy tyres front and back looks rather good, in a Manta Ray / Thunder Shot kind of way. Might be worth simply fitting rear wheels and tyres all round to avoid confusion. Haha I can see why you say that but I had to stop and think myself looking st it and thought “ oh no!” But... I remembered the tyres weren’t glued then and they were off the rims in places hence looking wider etc. These wheels and tyres are indeed like the stock BajaKing ones with wider rears than the front... I’ve now got them fitted correctly with additional alloy hex’s to handle the 3900kv motor without worry of stripping ( 4mm hex on the front and 5mm rear due to differing wheel widths and needing more of the axle to thread the wheel lock nuts on). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 14, 2018 Gave this a good run out today and it shifts really well, thanks again Turnip for a great job. Next plans are to fit the alloy shocks I’ve received from China after I fill them up with oil and check for leaks. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 16, 2018 And some new 1/16 shocks that are exactly 62mm eye to eye as per the stock shocks. These are not as good as CVA's but they are alot better than the original ones they replace, now the truck doesn't bounce back up off the ground when dropped for a height, they actually damp! Anyone need a set of used TL01B shocks? @TurnipJF first refusal ;p Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 4985 Posted April 16, 2018 Thanks, but I'm good. New shocks look the business! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 2516 Posted April 16, 2018 How much were the new shocks? Look smart enough! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted April 17, 2018 £14-15 for all 4 shocks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 11, 2018 This car hits 37MPH on 2s lipo and 50.5MPH on 3s lipo.... 19t pinion with a 3900kv Motor. Here it is messing around a bit... I’ve yet to fit the Ford F-150 shell but it will happen! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juls1 1234 Posted August 11, 2018 What the heck ikea is closed at some point where you live? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 12, 2018 8 hours ago, Juls1 said: What the heck ikea is closed at some point where you live? Nooo it’s just an overfill car park that rarely gets overfilled... trouble is that it’s not flat, the undulations cause all my RC cars going over about 85KPH to flip the front up as they go over one of the gentle crests, so this spot will never get me over 100KPH... I’ve complained to IKEA! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juls1 1234 Posted August 12, 2018 Ahh gotta slow down your suspension a bit especially the back.. haha. Maybe it’ll jump instead of front flip then! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 12, 2018 14 hours ago, Juls1 said: Ahh gotta slow down your suspension a bit especially the back.. haha. Maybe it’ll jump instead of front flip then! Actually these Alloy shocks are not set up well at the moment.... they are very light and bouncy..... they push down very very easily so landing from a jump they just completely compress and give little dampening. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juls1 1234 Posted August 12, 2018 Yeah can run shocks on RC cars fairly slow for maximum stability. You wouldn’t do that on a real car cause you gotta sit in the ******* and you’d shatter your spine on every big bump (although that could be the least of your issues the way we drive our RC cars ) Hopefully the cheapie shocks you have don’t have massive holes in there pistons and heavy oil to begin with. It’s why I generally stick to Tamiya shocks with a specific piston so from shock to shock I know roughly what settings by feel. Try with some oil you already have, then pickup some heavier if need be. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 14, 2018 Yep I will try to open the up tonight and have a looksee what's inside...... and these shocks are meant for a 1/16th, that's how they were listed on the advert and looking a them they are a little bit thinner in overall diameter that the stock plastic friction shocks they replaced..... the Tamiya springs are too wide to be used on these as they would come over the bottom spring retainer, this all means I won't have much chance of changing them anytime soon lol. Let's hope the thicker oil will slow them down a bit! In other news... I dug out my 2 x Ford F150 shells and they fit quite nicely on this TL01B...... had to get some different body posts sorted front and rear (removed rear wing ofcourse) but it looks pretty good. Photo's to follow when my home PC stops playing up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 14, 2018 The blue and white bodyshell had bodypost holes to fit my old WT01.... it's a runner shell and protected fro the inside with cricket bat tape...... luckily it could be fudged enough to fit this TL01B.... some minor trimming of the front wheel arch and voila... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 14, 2018 This Black F150 was done by me over a year ago and I just never got round to cutting it out..... now is the time! One quick cut later... boom 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juls1 1234 Posted August 15, 2018 So is the Chevy body a bit narrower than the Ford? Looks like it? I’ve got a similar project around the Chevy body coming up. Different chassis underneath. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3836 Posted August 16, 2018 On 8/15/2018 at 9:41 AM, Juls1 said: So is the Chevy body a bit narrower than the Ford? Looks like it? I’ve got a similar project around the Chevy body coming up. Different chassis underneath. Which Chevy body do you mean? The two above are both Ford F-150 bodies iirc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juls1 1234 Posted August 16, 2018 43 minutes ago, Jason1145 said: Which Chevy body do you mean? The two above are both Ford F-150 bodies iirc Ahh, my bad not sure why I thought one was a Chevy? Lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejtnt 5 Posted August 21, 2018 It only took me 4 months to get around to it. The TL-01 turnbuckle set I have is probably to short for the TL-01B. It measured at 38mm for the actual turnbuckle and with the stock plastic ends it can be set between 56 to 63-ish mm, possibly a bit more. Would that be something interesting for you? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
