Glueing the sides of FRP chassis pieces

[Kingfisher]

The manual says to put glue around the edges of the RM-01 and F103GT FRP chassis pieces. Is there a preferred glue to use? I have a few things ranging from watery tire glue, Testors Plastic Cement (Red), JB Weld, Epoxy, and a couple others. Obviously, I wouldn't use the watery tire glue. It would make a mess, but the epoxy could make the edges strong if done neatly.

 Did you use the glue on the sides of yours, and if so what glue did you use? If no glue, how is it holding up after use?

[WillyChang]

Actually, the watery (normal, nonGel type) superglue is best for sealing cut fibre plate edges. You want it to soak into the fibres, anything thicker will just sit on top then it dries.

 I just give the plates a quick sanding (I use a nailfile or emeryboard) to dull the sharp edges then run a bead of glue around it. Don't forget the large holes too.

I doubt it does anything to improve strength, if you do impact it whilst running it'll still crush. It's more for cosmetic and stops it splintering/fraying at the cut edges... but if you've ever suffered a splinter from CF, it's a worthwhile investment to glue every edge that I'm likely to touch  

Dont forget bits like CF shock towers, top deck & various support plates.

[speedy_w_beans]

CRC has had this guide posted forever:  https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=16

[TurnipJF]

It is common practice to edge seal carbon pieces with cyanoacrylate to prevent delamination, but it is generally regarded as not critical on fibreglass parts. 

That said, I do it anyway for cosmetic reasons, using thin superglue applied with a cotton bud. Once the glue has set, I go over it with a black permanent marker to hide the inevitable white cloudy bits.

The only exception is the T- bar on my F103. I leave the edges unsealed, as I was advised that applying glue might change the flex characteristics of the piece.

[Ann3x]

I find it generally better to do the opposite order, black Perm marker on the edge, the CA glue on a cotton bud, then polish with a dremel. Clean up any mess (carefully) with acetone. 

[WillyChang]

You guys must love doing work  I just glue to avoid the YEOWCH later on.

 

just a quick Public Service reminder

If/whenever you spill large amt of superglue, DO NOT mop it up with a tissue or cotton rags/t-shirt, nothing fibrous & flammable. Curing superglue is exothermic and when you have enough spilt it could start a fire on rags.

 

Bulldog foldback clips also very handy to hold the CF plates with. Handy as handles then afterwards they're good for standing the plates on edge too.

 

[Man1c M0nk3y]

When I bought my carbon towers for the Top Force I asked the manufacturer about gluing/sealing the edges. Their response was that there is no need in their opinion. Personally I’ve gone with that. 

The original fibreglass ones however I would have sealed purely because the edge finish is pretty poor. 

[Ann3x]

3 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

When I bought my carbon towers for the Top Force I asked the manufacturer about gluing/sealing the edges. Their response was that there is no need in their opinion. Personally I’ve gone with that. 

Looks pretty tho!

[Kingfisher]

This is why I asked. I probably would have gone with the epoxy, not knowing any better if I didn't ask.  Thanks everyone for your help. 

[wolfdogstinkus]

From Fibrelyte UK . I asked about sealing the edges when I bought the shock towers for the wild dagger.

Quote

the quality and finish of the two materials is superb as we manufacture both in house (so I would say that wouldn't I! :-))

 

the edges of the carbon aren't sealed as they don't need to be.