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Tamiya TS45 Pearl White advice needed

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Hi guys quick question I will be spraying Blackfoot hard body (pictured below) with TS45 pearl white now... spray straight onto body or... spray primer on first and then pearl white?

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ive used it a few times and each time i have used a white background first as it comes out transparent 

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def go with some white primer underneath first - think of the base color as a reflector - if its black its going to make the color on top deeper or more saturated - white you want to reflect as much as possible and be brilliant. so you use a complimentary primer. If you are shooting brighter colors like white or fluorescents, bright greens, bright blues, youd use white primer. Gray primer for blacks, browns, deep blues, etc

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Pearl white is nowhere as opaque as Pure white, you will need a white base coat or primer layer. 

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Thanks guys yes I thought I would need a white primer last body I sprayed with Tamiya grey primer and then gloss black but the black came out matt finish. Is Tamiya primer poor quality or is it a case I should have sanded the primer once I sprayed it on?

Will be gutted if I end up with matt finish pearl white.

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That Tamiya primer is good stuff. I always wet sand the paint throughout the entire process.  The pearl white is very opaque. You’ll need to spray it with either pure white or racing white then spray the pearl on. You should probably clear coat afterwards 

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42 minutes ago, gravetxt-1 said:

Thanks guys yes I thought I would need a white primer last body I sprayed with Tamiya grey primer and then gloss black but the black came out matt finish. Is Tamiya primer poor quality or is it a case I should have sanded the primer once I sprayed it on?

Will be gutted if I end up with matt finish pearl white.

You may have experienced what happened to me - some things I learned:

Yes it can't hurt to wetsand the primer with a fine grit paper 2000, 3000, etc then wipe down good with a wet lint free cloth to get all the primer dust up off the body.  I follow that with a lint free cloth and alcohol to make sure I get all the dust up and the alcohol is fast drying, I even blast it with canned after after that to get the moisture out of corners and nooks.

One mistake I made was being too far away, 12" turned out to be too far away, also, keep your paint can upright to keep the paint flowing well.   Also, soak the can in hot water before shooting.  this will make the paint more viscous and flow better.  By being too far away  I was getting clouding above the body and that paint would then fall and land on the body creating particles or like a "microtexture" or very fine matte surface, which can be polished out with a fine polishing compound like that that Tamiya sells.  You can buy the 3 pack Tamiya finishing compounds and polish up small texture out of the paint. 

The paint should look like glass when wet, smooth wet, colored glass.  If you get that surface, a wet glassy surface, PUT THE PAINT DOWN.  Do not go further Let it cure up.  You can go too far then you'll have drips and runs. That happened to me over the weekend with a hood on my Brat body - I got a nice glassy surface after 3 or 4 passes, I had to pry myself away and just let it cure.

Here's a good video that REALLY helped me:

 

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Thank you for the video :) so... what you guys are saying is white primer then pure white and then pearl white am I correct?

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6 minutes ago, gravetxt-1 said:

Thank you for the video :) so... what you guys are saying is white primer then pure white and then pearl white am I correct?

probably overkill but it'll work :) just watch out for loss of detail from paint buildup too thick

my main use of TS (either) white is to paint over yellowed plastics. 1-shot hero so no primer etc... don't wanna sand primer's usual textured finish

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49 minutes ago, gravetxt-1 said:

Thank you for the video :) so... what you guys are saying is white primer then pure white and then pearl white am I correct?

I'd maybe skip the pure white, I'm not sure why a few thin layers of pearl white won't work on top of the white primer, as Willy points out, the more paint layers the more details you kill in the plastic like the badges and moulding etc.  Don't be afraid to shoot one section of the body and let it sit and then do other areas separately just keep in mind what you have down on each part of the body.  What I've been doing is shooting the sides of the body front to back and then letting that cure over night and then going onto the roof and hood the next day.  The more patient you are the better the results you're going to have and you are less likely to make a mistake.

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42 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

probably overkill but it'll work :) just watch out for loss of detail from paint buildup too thick

my main use of TS (either) white is to paint over yellowed plastics. 1-shot hero so no primer etc... don't wanna sand primer's usual textured finish

I did admittely skip primer on my 2nd Brat body to see if I could avoid texture issues.   So far so good.  I just made sure to wet sand the plastic real good and get all the dust up with through rinsing with hot water and mild detergent.   I find a brand new paint brush with soft hair works wonders under the faucet to get the dust out of corners and nooks.

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yeah TS sticks onto hardbody well enough, I don't bother with primer except when a "foundation/concealer" is needed - usually only after puttying or filler of different colours

there's the can of "fine surface primer" nowadays too, it dries to a matte finish but not grainy. You can wetcoat TS on top of that without any sanding & create decent gloss straightoff the gun. 

(I hate sanding!! Things always go wrong when sanding...)

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Planning my attack on how I’m going to checkboard this bed.  Tape and paint is my preferred method but cutting tape and getting a good seal on the texture if the bed will be tough. 

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46 minutes ago, JeffSpicoli said:

Planning my attack on how I’m going to checkboard this bed.  Tape and paint is my preferred method but cutting tape and getting a good seal on the texture if the bed will be tough. 

which is where liquid mask becomes handy

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4 hours ago, WillyChang said:

which is where liquid mask becomes handy

I was wondering if I could go that route, I have a fresh bottle of Bob Dively - please feel free to elaborate on the process in the What You did Today thread please :D

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Primed the body made a really nice job of it then taking it back into the house to dry dropped the body onto concrete floor paint was really messed up and full of gravel. Will order a new body and look into hydro dipping a hard body or have someone airbrush the body for me.

Just to stressful and difficult spraying is a weak point for me. Plus now I have the nightmare of drilling body post holes again to match what is on the truck.

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arrr thats a shame and i feel for you i know how you feel.

i catched my grand hauler shell after the 3rd coat with the can as i was walking back into the kitchen and put a line in the bonnet but i let it dry for an hour then just flated it back then carried on painting.

i would say have a go at flating it back first as you aint got knowt to loose seeing your planning on buying another shell anyway you never know you may get away with it.

leave it for a day so you calm down then go back to it over the weekend.

plus if you have not try'd hydro dipping before then i surjest you try it on something else first as you could come a cropper with that method also

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