Jump to content
JeffSpicoli

Painting checkerboard pattern - Need advice

Recommended Posts

So I've flirted with some ideas but I'd like the experts to way in, how would you paint a checkboard pattern in the bed of this BRAT body?

1. Method 1 I considered - mask the body, spray the bottom of the bed white, then try to painters tape the bed, and someway somehow cut out the "black" squares where the black paint will be shot, then peel off all the tape, done.

2. Method 2 Some how use liquid mask?

3. Method 3 Buy some sort of thin plastic paintable stock, cut it to the shape of the bed, mask and paint as normal, place it in the bed with glue or double sided adhesive tape, etc.

4. Method 4  Try to find some sort of vinyl wrap that's checkered already and lay into the bed.

I have measured the bed - it's 6 inches deep and 5.75 wide.   If each square is .75x.75  I can fit exactly 48 squares in the bed. Obviously some will be cropped in the corners behind the cab.

 

Open to advice, I would love to do it the old school way with just paint and tape but it seems like that will be a tall task with that textured bed not being perfectly flat.

 

83C83AA8-6E00-4253-9B88-242ACA6AA34E.thumb.jpeg.d359d3bef78dce3ac4d9298d9f314ba9.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's some uneven surface.  No matter which way you choose, it's going to be a tough job.  I'm leaning toward #1, because cutting out liquid on this surface might be difficult.  

Here is a video of a plastic kit being built.  From the minute 23 mark, you can see the masking for the red and white stripe.  It might be helpful.  Andy in the video is using "Tamiya masking tape for curves."  It's a bit more expensive.  It's like electrical tape but softer.  Rubbery and sticks to curves well. But 12mm (about 0.5 inch) is the biggest I've seen.  Since the truck bed is bigger, I am wondering if you could get away with using regular masking tape...   

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it will look odd as the distances will be all wrong as the squares go up and down the slopes. 

I think this is one good idea that you would never be happy with the finish off. 

Could you make an insert in plasticard and paint that? Like a bed liner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Nobbi1977 said:

I think it will look odd as the distances will be all wrong as the squares go up and down the slopes. 

I think this is one good idea that you would never be happy with the finish off. 

Could you make an insert in plasticard and paint that? Like a bed liner.

method 3 in original post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Juggular said:

That's some uneven surface.  No matter which way you choose, it's going to be a tough job.  I'm leaning toward #1, because cutting out liquid on this surface might be difficult.  

Here is a video of a plastic kit being built.  From the minute 23 mark, you can see the masking for the red and white stripe.  It might be helpful.  Andy in the video is using "Tamiya masking tape for curves."  It's a bit more expensive.  It's like electrical tape but softer.  Rubbery and sticks to curves well. But 12mm (about 0.5 inch) is the biggest I've seen.  Since the truck bed is bigger, I am wondering if you could get away with using regular masking tape...   

 

 

Good find man, at 12mm wide that would essentially mean my square count doubles.  Maybe not the worst thing if the tape works well, it looks very pliable and easily cut.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when you apply the masks use you heatgun/hairdryer to make the masks stick over the raised sections but dont apply to much heat 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, topforcein said:

when you apply the masks use you heatgun/hairdryer to make the masks stick over the raised sections but dont apply to much heat 

good idea - was planning on just really pressing it down and using a credit card but this is an even better idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i would let the first coat dry before you heat the decals up as if you apply to much heat the paint under them could come away when to peel them off thus ruining the effect

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, topforcein said:

i would let the first coat dry before you heat the decals up as if you apply to much heat the paint under them could come away when to peel them off thus ruining the effect

the white paint is going to sit over the weekend, the mask was just ordered so it'll be a few days before i attempt the black

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My paint mask has come now the gears are turning about how I’m going to cut it to fit good.  I know this, the bottom row will sit flush against the back of the bed so that the pattern is uniform at even in the back - the trimming will come at the top behind the rear glass where the rollbars sit.    i was thinking of flipping the body over to somehow trace the bed shape from the bottom since it is easy to access and the same shape on top obviously.  Getting a good clean cut on the sides will be key. 

BF76C290-C4BB-4596-B699-83076F0A88F8.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can use the mask in 2 ways either do as you said or pic out the squares you want and place each one by hand....that is what i did on the roof on my old mini i sold to jason1145 of here if you aks him he'll put a pic up to see the results i got

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...