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OP480

Clod Buster stock with 3s?

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I'm about to build a Clodbuster for the first time, however I want to use the stock motors. From what I've seen Clodbusters running on 7.2 nimh are incredibly slow. I'm not looking for crazy speed but I don't want it to bore me to death. I've seen Clodbusters using the stock motors and 3s lipo and they are pretty impressive! (Obviously using a lipo compatible ESC) But I have been told that running the stock motor with 11v power will ruin them quickly. Can someone speak up for 3s power in a stock Clod? Do the motors hold up? Will a 3s pack fit without modification?

 

 

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Run it on 2x 2s lipo's 2 esc's. 

Use 2x hobbywing 1060's and give them 2s each?.

3s wont fit without minor modifications.

Nor will 2x 2s to be honest but it will speed things up a lot.

Or adjustable motor mount and bigger pinion?

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1 hour ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Run it on 2x 2s lipo's 2 esc's. 

Use 2x hobbywing 1060's and give them 2s each?.

3s wont fit without minor modifications.

Nor will 2x 2s to be honest but it will speed things up a lot.

Or adjustable motor mount and bigger pinion?

I was thinking about using a Hobbywing 860 because it's set up for dual brushed motors and trying to fit a 3s pack somehow 

 

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The 860 runs 4s. I tried it on a wild dagger. The silver cans were smoking though. Lol. 

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3s lipo, standard Silvercans, hobywing 860 is still the best combo in one of these.

Tried and tested for years by many of us.

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Another for 860 and 3s 

Most softcase's fit, but that's always a risk, and I've an Orion rocketsport hardcase that fits, just, but I needed to modify the end cover, which I managed to find on eBay cheap, so now got one for 2s and one for 3s.

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The gearing on the clod gives the motors an easy life so a silver can running 3s on a clod won't get as hot as it would in something geared faster like an ORV or hotshot chassis. Plus you have two motors so they lighten the load for each other a lot of the time.

I've had some vehicles that were geared so high that even a 2s allowed the motor to draw enough current to kill itself but the Clod is on the other extreme and geared very low.

And worst case they only cost a few £ from Hobbyking if you're able to dremel a flat spot on the shaft yourself, that's the only difference between one from Hobbyking and one from Tamiya.

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2 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

The gearing on the clod gives the motors an easy life so a silver can running 3s on a clod won't get as hot as it would in something geared faster like an ORV or hotshot chassis. Plus you have two motors so they lighten the load for each other a lot of the time.

I've had some vehicles that were geared so high that even a 2s allowed the motor to draw enough current to kill itself but the Clod is on the other extreme and geared very low.

And worst case they only cost a few £ from Hobbyking if you're able to dremel a flat spot on the shaft yourself, that's the only difference between one from Hobbyking and one from Tamiya.

Thanks for the info! That's kind of what I was thinking, the conservative gearing on the Clod puts less stress on the motors. I think I'm going to pick up a soft case 3s and give it a shot.

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On 6/5/2018 at 6:30 PM, OP480 said:

Thanks for the info! That's kind of what I was thinking, the conservative gearing on the Clod puts less stress on the motors. I think I'm going to pick up a soft case 3s and give it a shot.

Make sure you run those motors in properly. Better contact on the brushes will create less heat.

 

Also,once those silvercans burn out, just get something like these. Cheap and fun. Absima Thrust B-spec 21T

I run the 17T version in my Neo Fighter and it's a VERY strong runner.

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