Engine and carb help

[Dirt-540 68]

Currently restoring a Kyosho Landjump and its time to try and sort the engine and carbs out.Thing is, I have no experience with engines and I know its easy to damage the bore. I have 2 engines and 2 carbs, both from Landjumps. Aswell as knowing nothing about how to clean and restore I also know nothing historically about these products, so if anybody has any historical information or knows how to clean and restore these items please let me know. Thanks in advance.

 

[hedge 314]

This is a hard one. Cleaning the outside you just need any type of "real" car cleaner that will clean burnt on castor oil I generally use clutch cleaner for everything nitro. Inside the bearings need replacing, there are two, one at the front and one at the back. To remove them you heat in an oven at 100-150 degrees Celcius for 10 mins. The rear should fall out with a sharp bang on wood, the front may need help - use wood dowels no metal screw drivers. Keep repeating the heat cycle till they come free.

Now the hard bit. there are 2 typical types of engine, those with a piston ring and those without. I assume the above don't have a piston ring. They work through the piston being shipped very very tight to the piston bore and through the early run in procedure very small amounts of metal are shaved off the bore/piston so you get perfect fit and hence good compression. The good news is unless you are entering this years Neo Race you don't need perfect compression but you do need some. If the piston and bore are badly rusted or damaged then you might not get this running again. So these are the two most important parts to look at. The rest - the Piston Pin, the arm and the shaft can all be cleaned of rust using a green scotch pad (the type your mum uses to clean pots) - don't use this in the piston or bore unless your desperate it will score each and you will lose compression. if you have ringed engines then the bore needs to be completely damage free, get a new piston ring and you are good. if the bore has deep rust or gouges then at best you won't get compression, at worst the ring will catch and snap. In this case get a new piston liner.

The carbs - can all be dismantled and cleaned with Clutch cleaner BUT don't do it till you have run them, they are easy to put together wrong! You will however need new rubber seals if the ones I can see are shot.

Plugs - get new plugs see manuals below

The manuals

The good news is OS (the one on the right) keep an archive on their site of old manuals. The bad news is knowing what you have, my guess is 

OS Max 21, but it could be an 18 or a 25 look for any markings that let you know.

You need the manual for the bearing size, the plug and the starting point for the needles. If you have no luck then plug OS LC4 https://www.osengines.com/glowplugs/index.html, Bearings, take the ones you get out to a bearing shop, or send them to an online on and they will supply the correct ones, needles I would want more pictures of the carb to work out what you have. 

Good luck, your a brave man running the kyosho. here is my shelf queen.

Kyosho Land Jump by Paul, on Flickr

 

[Dirt-540 68]

@hedge Thank you for your help and taking the time to write so much. Looks like I got some work to do, all of it stuff Ive never done before.

I think it might be worth me just cleaning the outside of the engines so they look nice. Do you think it'd be okay to leave the internals alone, I just dont wana damage them. I wonder if they'll seize if left. 

Yours looks beautiful, and your Scorcher too.

[hedge 314]

16 hours ago, Dirt-540 said:

@hedge Thank you for your help and taking the time to write so much. Looks like I got some work to do, all of it stuff Ive never done before.

I think it might be worth me just cleaning the outside of the engines so they look nice. Do you think it'd be okay to leave the internals alone, I just dont wana damage them. I wonder if they'll seize if left. 

Yours looks beautiful, and your Scorcher too.

Hi,

yes you can leave them. if they are not already seized then squirt WD40 down the glow plug hole and remove the rear cover and squirt it in there as well. Then just turn them over by hand for 2-3 mins nothing too strenuous. Now try and get the wd40 out with shaking and kitchen towel - don't want it leaking everywhere. Now add 10-20 drops of 3-1 type oil - 10 in glow plug hole and 10 in the rear. Again turn over for about 2 mins, now this is important, on the last turn you want piston BDC (bottom dead center) - as you turn you will feel resistance and then its real easy, at the point its real easy this is BDC - stops the Piston seizing against the piston bore.

The wd40 drives any water out and the oil just lubricates so when you are ready for the challenge of rebuilding they should be ok.

[Dirt-540 68]

6 hours ago, hedge said:

Hi,

yes you can leave them. if they are not already seized then squirt WD40 down the glow plug hole and remove the rear cover and squirt it in there as well. Then just turn them over by hand for 2-3 mins nothing too strenuous. Now try and get the wd40 out with shaking and kitchen towel - don't want it leaking everywhere. Now add 10-20 drops of 3-1 type oil - 10 in glow plug hole and 10 in the rear. Again turn over for about 2 mins, now this is important, on the last turn you want piston BDC (bottom dead center) - as you turn you will feel resistance and then its real easy, at the point its real easy this is BDC - stops the Piston seizing against the piston bore.

The wd40 drives any water out and the oil just lubricates so when you are ready for the challenge of rebuilding they should be ok.

Thanks again, this is good news and makes things a little easier for now. 

Am going to get some clutch cleaner, any particular brand/version? Also whats the best way to use it? I would like to get the engines looking as clean and polished as possible.

[Bullitt3577 35]

If your engine is seized, try heating the case/head with a heat gun. That usually loosens up the piston so you can rotate it, then you can drop oil into the engine as was mentioned before. This has worked for me several times whith old nitro engines. Be careful if you do plan on taking the engine apart, some of the screws may be frozen. Then you’re stuck with extracting stripped screws and sometimes trying to find odd sized fasteners to replace them. 

[Dirt-540 68]

17 hours ago, Bullitt3577 said:

If your engine is seized, try heating the case/head with a heat gun. That usually loosens up the piston so you can rotate it, then you can drop oil into the engine as was mentioned before. This has worked for me several times whith old nitro engines. Be careful if you do plan on taking the engine apart, some of the screws may be frozen. Then you’re stuck with extracting stripped screws and sometimes trying to find odd sized fasteners to replace them. 

Cheers chap