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Bugged out

Keep burning out motors!

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Looks good! Tamiya did a on road treaded tyre for those if you wanted to burn them up and down the asphalt and save your grass set.

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22 hours ago, jupitertwo said:

Glad you got it all sorted. :) what body shell is that? I’ve not had a great time with the poly repo shells I’ve tried, this one looks a bit better?

I am leaning towards this one.. (below) as it seems slightly familiar?

And the costs ring a bell.

But my memory is shocking so can't guarantee this is the actual one I got.

Hope this is of help!

Screenshot_20180720-223853_eBay.jpg

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1 hour ago, Bugged out said:

I am leaning towards this one.. (below) as it seems slightly familiar?

And the costs ring a bell.

But my memory is shocking so can't guarantee this is the actual one I got.

Hope this is of help!

 

Thanks for this, these seem like a better bet. I’ve a couple of Kamtec ones, I found them functional, but not great. The TBG ones seem a much better bet. Cheers!

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On 7/20/2018 at 8:33 PM, berman said:

Looks good! Tamiya did a on road treaded tyre for those if you wanted to burn them up and down the asphalt and save your grass set.

We got some and discovered we couldn't get any traction as the rubber compound was too hard (perhaps they were old as they were second hand)

But the car was uncontrollable so we switched back to the stock tires.

They really are shredded now so some new ones are required....

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15 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

My old blitzer helicopter on 3s.

 

This is incredible.

What stuff tends to break most.?

Is this stock with 3s Lipo?

Or is it brushless? 

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You could try lining the inside of those tires with Gorilla tape to keep them from balooning. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bugged out said:

This is incredible.

What stuff tends to break most.?

Is this stock with 3s Lipo?

Or is it brushless? 

that was on 3s with brushless 4600kv. crazy fast. 

I used to break the gearbox where the suspension joins on as it was cart-wheeling down the street @40mph. lol

Its a tough car though, mine took loads of abuse.  Best off sticking to 2s, 3s is just for showing off, not good for normal use.

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17 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

You could try lining the inside of those tires with Gorilla tape to keep them from balooning. 

 

 

Has anybody used this taping technique?

I may well give this a go with the pro-life Trenchers we had as they are really trippy and hard wearing but balloon with the updated motor.

 

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13 hours ago, Bugged out said:

Has anybody used this taping technique?

I may well give this a go with the pro-life Trenchers we had as they are really trippy and hard wearing but balloon with the updated motor.

 

I did it on a set of tires when I was trying to use rubber for speed runs. It does work. The tires firm up stiff like he shows in the video. 

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Back to the drawing board.

The 17t died last night.

It started to sound different on the previous run

from the shrill "beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee "of a nice motor You all know to a rough almost raspy sound for a few.minutes with loss of performance then nothing.

It even had a heat sink on !

I will learn how to pull it apart tonight and have a look and put some pics up and hopefully somebody will point me right..🙄

I have ordered heat sinks with fans to try and help cool the motors as they are red hot.(hot enough to make the heat shrink glue on the wires go soft again)

The ESC heat sink is only warm.

Perhaps my batteries are too "punchy"?

Clueless again.

What batteries are people using and are they using the stock silver cans or similar.? 

Thanks again all.

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Bummer.

Was that the motor you were using prior to swapping in the OEM tires? Maybe it was already on its way to failure?

I would throw the stock motor in there and see if there's not an issue elsewhere in your setup. If that motor fails, you could try swapping batteries, and so on. Process of elimination will get you to a solution in most cases B)

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51 minutes ago, OCD said:

Bummer.

Was that the motor you were using prior to swapping in the OEM tires? Maybe it was already on its way to failure?

I would throw the stock motor in there and see if there's not an issue elsewhere in your setup. If that motor fails, you could try swapping batteries, and so on. Process of elimination will get you to a solution in most cases B)

I am not sure 

(We have had a few now.)

I think I am going to go back to 27t

Which is the same as stock silver can (I think)

Hopefully this combined with heat sinks will help but it is a process of elimination like you said OCD

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This is the state of the brushes after aproximately 16 runs for 15mins.

 I will take the end bell off and have a look further 

15324610999555950768262401248908.jpg

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So after an evening of YouTube education ...

I realise that I should have broken in the motors 😫 what a rookie mistake.

It's seems this may help to prolong the life of the motors.

But also as we're running them hard we may well need to rebuild the motors and skim the comutator every couple of runs as is done in racing.

Does anyone know where to get spares from these days? 

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That brush looks relatively new.  Some people drive until those brushes become 5mm stubs.  If you run it that long, axle bushings are so worn out, the axle wobbles and brushes just cannot make good contact.  (I think lubricating the bushings is more important for longevity)  It's good that you are looking into this every so often. 

I just use #1000 sand paper to bring the shine back to the commutator.  I've got a comm cutter/brush conditioning thingy.  But I'm ashamed to say, I've never used it.  Every time I try to play with it, I find the rubber band to the slave motor broken.    

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-High-Quality-GoolRC-Brushed-Connecting-Wire-Set-for-GoolRC-540-Motor-R2C3/323357619203?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52935%26meid%3Dc4efd72818974e128af23428a65ef46f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D252641865842%26itm%3D323357619203&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Comm drop is about $10.  I'm still using a bottle from the year 2001.  It slows the friction.  Less wear is good for breaking it in, also motor lasts longer, runs faster, etc.  If you want, you can use it before every run.  I use it only when I'm breaking it in because I'm lazy.  You can't use easily flammable oil for this, because the brushes always create sparks.  These are oils that are not prone to catch fire.  (I've heard that these are designed to burn off, but I have no idea.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Much-More-Comm-Drop-for-More-Motor-Power-CHE-CD/232848925861?hash=item3636e0a4a5%3Ag%3AYDwAAOSw8d5ZURb~&_sacat=0&_nkw=comm+drops&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

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Thanks Juggular!

This is of great help.

I will get some com drops before I start the repair work and keep on top of the lubrication in the future.

I have got a 2nd hand lathe/com skimmer coming as I am going to use it to teach my son how to maintain and repair the motors rather than go and buy another one every few runs.

I still haven't got round to having a look inside the cans yet but I have 3 motors to refurbish so will hopefully put some pics up.

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This is what I've found.

I will clean it up and skim the come and see if that returns the motor.

I don't like the colour of the turns but will give it a wash and see ...

15326329601832714345847617902231.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Bugged out said:

I don't like the colour of the turns but will give it a wash and see ...

Agreed.The windings look blued and burnt in that picture. The commutator looks pretty bad too, but that might not be the source of your failure. Have you tested for continuity?

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No I don't have the gear for that 

I'm guessing a multimeter will be needed? 

I'm skimming the com now (kind of a rough set up) and practice really 

The brushes have caused quite a deep wearing on the com.

Then I'll put it together and lube with some fine oil and see what happens...

15326352602698655520359085482583.jpg

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It ran !

At slow speed(to break it in)

For about 30 seconds then It slowed to a stop and felt like it was getting warm..

Stumped.

Enough for one day.... 

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Rebuildable SMD 27turn motor from modelsport installed with basic heat sink.

Hoping to extend the wiring on the one with a fan to help with cooling.(hopefully)

I will run it in slowly before letting my lad give it the beans...

Fingers crossed! 

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If this goes wrong too, do you have another ESC you could try?

Do you find that the performance is the same with both batteries?

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Without testing them both they seem the same.

I have a hobbywing quick run ESC spare which I could try...

The only other variable left is the batteries(I think) as I bought them off the 'Net in all my naive eagerness to get back into it after 25yrs ...😳

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