Tamiya M-06 with US Style MR2 Mk1 Shell

[Boddney]

Thanks @Jason1145. I saw that during my YouTube marathon. A great life hack.

[Boddney]

I’m still plodding on with my build. I’m really taking my time and as yet I’ve not made any mistakes. Here’s a couple of pictures.

 

 

 

 

[Boddney]

I have to say, the shock absorbers that don’t actually absorb anything are really pants. My teenage builds had oil filled shocks, but then they were off road buggies. Maybe these road cars are fine with these loose, wobbly fake shocks, we’ll see. I have a feeling I’ll be changing them.

Once the suspension was on I just popped the wheels on just for fun.

 

[TurnipJF]

Those "pogo stick" spring holders are not much good for anything other than display really. You would do well to consider a set of Super Mini CVAs or similar short oil dampers if you are planning on actually driving the car at any point.

[Boddney]

29 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

You would do well to consider a set of Super Mini CVAs or similar short oil dampers 

That’s what I’ll do then @TurnipJF. Thanks for the info.

The play in every thing just seems excessive. King pins, wishbones and front suspension subframe have a lot, but the shocks take the biscuit. I was going to cut some plastic pipe or something to fill the gap at the top of the spring. There is a visual difference in ride height front to back at the moment. It just looks ridiculous.

[Boddney]

To cheer myself up a bit I trial fitted the MR2 shell. It fits snugly with it still in unfettled guise and @firefoxussr you are absolutely correct in that the motor carrier does just touch the rear valence. That’s gonna need looking at later.

Sassy Staffie wanted to be in on the act too. She’s such a show off.

[TurnipJF]

The Super Mini CVAs come with little plastic clip-on spacers in a choice of thicknesses to adjust ride height (and some say preload, but others say this is incorrect).

The play elsewhere in the suspension can be eliminated with shims, but it doesn't seem to affect the car's handling. A pro racer might be sensitive enough to pick up on it, but the M- chassis I see raced at club level seem to run very nicely with nothing more than bearings, a set of proper shocks and tyres appropriate to the track surface. 

Shell looks to be a great fit for the wheelbase. I'm sure the motor carrier can be gently filed to clear.

[Boddney]

8 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The Super Mini CVAs come with little plastic clip-on spacers in a choice of thicknesses to adjust ride height (and some say preload, but others say this is incorrect).

 

Oh yes I remember those from when I built the Super Sabre. I found the CVAs to soft for the terrain I used, so I cut some garden hosepipe to put in place of the spacers to stiffen the ride. It’s all starting to come back to me now.

[berman]

Get the #54000 dampers (will need the extra shock shafts that come in the M06 kit) and some M grip front tyres. 

[svenb]

2 hours ago, Boddney said:

Sassy Staffie wanted to be in on the act too. She’s such a show off.

Great looking dog

Love staffies

[_oliK]

Buys a Tamiya, complains about play. That's just part of the experience.

 

But yes, those friction dampers suck. CVA shocks and a decent selection of springs are highly recommended. Way better handling and improved tunability.

[firefoxussr]

20 hours ago, Boddney said:

To cheer myself up a bit I trial fitted the MR2 shell. It fits snugly with it still in unfettled guise and @firefoxussr you are absolutely correct in that the motor carrier does just touch the rear valence. That’s gonna need looking at later.

IIRC ABC Hobby made a rear-motor chassis, so I'm not terribly surprised it fits.   Me, I'm a stickler for motor position compared to the real car.  I have two different MX-5/Miata shells that I've refused to build until I can find a front motor, rear wheel drive solution !

[Boddney]

So my friends I decided I want to finish everything before doing any hop ups but at the same time I can’t live with the play in the rear suspension or the uneven ride height. So personal hop ups or Boddney Botches as my wife calls them are the order of the day.

A very thin piece of hose pipe for the shock housings and plumbers PTFE tape to take up the slack in the end eye mounts.

The PTFE tape may not last long during use but it easily replaced until kosher hop ups are done.

[Fabia130vRS]

If you decide to upgrade the dampers, with a yeah racing 55mm or 50mm kit, you get ball connectors and they eliminate the play with them. And 5 kind od shocks. For only $30,  you also get 200ml of oil and you get to build them yourself with all you need.

[Jason1145]

On 8/29/2018 at 7:48 PM, TurnipJF said:

I know that feeling well...

I have a beautiful Arta Garaiya one that is waiting for me to pick up the courage to tackle it. In the mean time, the chassis is wearing a cheap generic shell so that I can run it without worry, and I don't feel any pressure to rush the good shell. 

If you want me to paint and decal fit it for you just give me a shout, I need to return some favours to you for all your help lately!

[TurnipJF]

22 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

If you want me to paint and decal fit it for you just give me a shout, I need to return some favours to you for all your help lately!

Thanks! That is very kind of you. I think I can manage this one though. 

That said, my coordination isn't what it once was, and there may very well come the day when I might need to take you up on that offer. 

You really don't owe me any favours however - any help I may have given was done so gladly. 

 

[berman]

The biggest amount of play I had in the factory pogo sticks was between the shock cap and body where they click together... rubbish design. I would stick recommend #54000, best shocks for the money. Totally transformed my M06

[Boddney]

Chassis all done.

Next step, learn how to do proper modelling and crack on with the body.

I’m short on time at the moment so it might not be just yet.

[Boddney]

Ok I took the chassis for a run to wear the battery down for its first recharge.

Unfortunately it never got that far due to the rear tyres coming off. One came off it’s bead and the other flew up the road for what seemed like blinkin miles. 

What have I done wrong? Well I know I didn’t glue the foam inside the tyres as I didn’t have any ‘Synthetic Rubber Cement’ but I did glue the tyres on using Poly Cement not ‘Instant Cement’ as it says in the instructions.

So friends, should I have followed the instructions to the letter or can you tell me what you use please?

Thanks, Bod

[Fabia130vRS]

I am using only and only protek medium tire glue. 

It sticks in 5 seconds like crazy.

I wouldnt care about the rims, a lot of people say they wont damage the rims with glue. Who really cares, one the tire get worn just replace with a new set.

 

[TurnipJF]

Poly cement is very good on certain plastics (such as polystyrene for example, hence the name) but it is utterly useless on anything that it cannot react with chemically, for example the rubber of your tyres.

Glue the tires on again using a cyanoacrylate glue that sticks to both plastic and rubber, and you will be fine. ("Instant Cement" is Tamiya-speak for Super Glue.)

[_oliK]

I use ShoeGoo to secure my tyres. It sticks really well and peels off again without damaging the wheels.

[Kevin_Mc]

1 hour ago, _oliK said:

I use ShoeGoo to secure my tyres. It sticks really well and peels off again without damaging the wheels.

Good to know, thanks! 

[Boddney]

Thanks everyone.

Bod

[Boddney]

I know this is supposed to be an MR2 build but I’m just so nervous about cutting the shell badly that a practice has to be a good idea right?

As the Beetle shell is in the kit, why not practice on it. I used the score and snap method using a brand new blade on the craft knife and I was surprised at what a fairly decent job I did of it. I carried on using the blade to trim the odd nasty bit here and there, then finished off with a bit of light sanding. Here it is cut and masked. 

Next step, paint.