Boddney

Tamiya M-06 with US Style MR2 Mk1 Shell

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I decided that the sensible option for paint would be to use the paint I have chosen for the MR2 just to be sure on the colour shade and that I was able to work with it. I know that sounds a bit weird but I’m sure you know what I mean. I would have loved to go with a different colour or even gone two tone with fading or a line but I took the sensible route as a newbie.

PS-57 Pearl white is the colour of choice and I think it looks blinking excellent. 

As always, thanks to all who gave advice including my ever superbly helpful model shop, Pegasus Models in Norwich.

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That has to be a herbie now?, right?

Think Pearl white was a herbie colour?

How about Nascar herbie from Herbie Reloaded?

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Would that not be a bit corny and predictable?

Anyway, doesn’t matter as that shell isn’t going on a chassis. It’s just my practice mule.

 I can see why you would suggest though.👍🏼

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Yes, corny and predictable which is why I suggested one of the other Herbie variants in the more recent film.

Your practice mule may become a runner shell?, while the MR2 is on the shelf.

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You may be right @wolfdogstinkus. The Beetle has turned out really well. I’m so happy with it and I love the modern colour on the classic shape.

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On 10/3/2018 at 5:55 PM, Boddney said:

I know this is supposed to be an MR2 build but I’m just so nervous about cutting the shell badly that a practice has to be a good idea right?

As the Beetle shell is in the kit, why not practice on it. I used the score and snap method using a brand new blade on the craft knife and I was surprised at what a fairly decent job I did of it. I carried on using the blade to trim the odd nasty bit here and there, then finished off with a bit of light sanding. Here it is cut and masked. 

Next step, paint.

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Wow, wish I could cut a Bodyshell out like that, how do you apply enough pressure without the shell caving in on itself???? Do you score it from the inside of the shell rather than the outside?? ( Coming from someone who has only ever used a curved lexan scissor cutting point of view)

The one piece remnant of lexan looks 😂.... mine ends up in 13 different pieces!

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Well thanks but if you look carefully you’ll notice that one of the rear arches has a bit of scraping and bruiseing on it and one side is lower than the other on the sill/step section.

To stop the shell collapsing I screwed a piece of wood (a bit higher than the wheel arch) to my bench and moved the shell around it as I scored the plastic from the outside as that’s where the indented line was. I honestly didn’t score that hard. I did make the mistake of trying to tear along the score until it went off line a few times then remembered that you’re supposed to ‘score and snap’

I found in places it was awkward to score along the line using the wood method so just held the shell with my fingers behind the piece I was doing.

So glad I had a practice mule.

Bod

Edited by Boddney
Missed a bit out
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I find that with the score and snap technique you don't need to score very deeply at all, so you don't need to press very hard. Once you start the crack, all it needs is a line to guide it where you want it to go. 

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Ok so I’m still doing bits on the mule Beetle shell having noticed that there are no shut lines for doors and boot/bonnet lids or lines where the rubber seals would fit around the arches. The only thing I could think of that would sort this was a fine point artists pen. So again, before and after pictures. Just need to see if the ink will stick to the plastic now after it dries.

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Ok so I’m still doing bits on the mule Beetle shell having noticed that there are no shut lines for doors and boot/bonnet lids or lines where the rubber seals would fit around the arches. The only thing I could think of that would sort this was a fine point artists pen. So again, before and after pictures. Just need to see if the ink will stick to the plastic now after it dries.

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I’ve started the main event.

This may not be the end, it may not be the beginning  of the end, but it is most certainly the end of the beginning.

There’s a few sand out imperfections to sort but they shouldn’t be an issue.

I added a picture of the remnant just for you @Jason1145

I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss any important instructions so I installed the Google Translate app which by the way is bl***y brilliant. Just point your phone at the Japanese text and it translate straight to English. Superb.

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I use those artist pens all the time. They add nice depth to a lexan body. Black for the door and hood/trunk lines, and a medium grey for any body panel seams. They shouldn't stand out as much as the door lines. 

Beautiful work, can't wait to see the MR2 when it's done!

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Thanks @OldSchoolRC1. I’m really having to force myself to take it slowly as I often rush things and cut before I look or measure properly. It’s paying off I think. There are a few mistakes here and there as you can see in the pictures if you look carefully. See if you can spot them. Make a list and post it up. Let’s have a giggle. 

The MR2 is proving to be quite difficult. For a start the ABC Hobby Lexan is much harder to work with than the Tamiya and also there are loads of small bits to cut out and tiny angles to cut to the right shape. The rear spoiler was really awkward and I made a bit of a hash of it. I’ll see what it looks like once it’s painted.

OK, I need some help please. I put the body on the chassis to see where it sits and where to cut the body posts. I just sat the shell on this and that to get it where I wanted it and found that when the front wheels are central in the front arches, the backs don’t fit in theirs properly because of the funny ‘toe in’ angle. Everything is fitted right it’s just the way the stub axle housing is made.

What can be done, if anything please gurus? Pictures.

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From the photo, it looks like the shell could go forward 2 mm and the front wheels would be fine?  

Tamiya A-arms are often sloppy.  For almost every other car, I've fitted shims.  You could shim them to shorten the wheelbase another 0.5 - 1 mm?  (If you could fit 2 of the 0.3mm shims at the body and at the wheel side, that'd be 0.6mm.  Front and back combined, would be 1.2 mm.  That's too hopeful though...  Kyosho sells a shim set of 0.1mm, 0.2mm and 0.3mm thickness shims, in different diameters like 3x5mm or 5x7mm) 

[Edit: along with shims, you could also sand the A-arms here and there, and get another 1mm. But I wouldn't sand unless I can be laser accurate... steering could get funky otherwise.]  

 

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The rear toe is important for the car's handling, but if it is to be primarily a shelfer, you could swap out the rear hubs for those from the TL-01, which would give less toe. 

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2 hours ago, Boddney said:

Thanks @OldSchoolRC1. I’m really having to force myself to take it slowly as I often rush things and cut before I look or measure properly. It’s paying off I think. There are a few mistakes here and there as you can see in the pictures if you look carefully. See if you can spot them. Make a list and post it up. Let’s have a giggle. 

The MR2 is proving to be quite difficult. For a start the ABC Hobby Lexan is much harder to work with than the Tamiya and also there are loads of small bits to cut out and tiny angles to cut to the right shape. The rear spoiler was really awkward and I made a bit of a hash of it. I’ll see what it looks like once it’s painted.

OK, I need some help please. I put the body on the chassis to see where it sits and where to cut the body posts. I just sat the shell on this and that to get it where I wanted it and found that when the front wheels are central in the front arches, the backs don’t fit in theirs properly because of the funny ‘toe in’ angle. Everything is fitted right it’s just the way the stub axle housing is made.

What can be done, if anything please gurus? Pictures.

This is due to the 2 degrees of toe-in that is molded into the rear uprights. If you swap them from left to right, this will "cancel" the toe so you have zero degrees, leaving the wheels parallel to the body. It's a terrible-handling setup for racing or even just bashing, but it's the only way to keep the rear wheels centered withing the arches.

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Superb. Thanks guys. Great advice as usual.

Even though it will affect the handling, it’s gonna have to be done.

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Guys, ouldn't the zero toe setup be perfect for replicating the obligatory snap oversteer? It's meant to be that way! :P

But I'd try shiming it first, see how far that gets you. You will want to disconnect the dampers and make sure that the suspension arms drop down freely and without fricition. Just as fast as dropping them from your hand would be.

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1 hour ago, _oliK said:

Guys, ouldn't the zero toe setup be perfect for replicating the obligatory snap oversteer? It's meant to be that way! :P

But I'd try shiming it first, see how far that gets you. You will want to disconnect the dampers and make sure that the suspension arms drop down freely and without fricition. Just as fast as dropping them from your hand would be.

LOL, snap-oversteer with the M06 chassis is a design-feature, not a bug :lol: Otherwise Tamiya wouldn't have introduced rear toe-angles that foul the wheelbase... right?

FWIW, I contemplated the shimming route with both of my M06 projects, but wasn't satisfied with the irreversible solutions I envisioned, so swapping them left-to-right was the best I could come up with. You'd need a lot of shims to center the wheels in the arches, and subsequently would need to shave away a good amount of the lower arm. I'm sure it would work, but just not to my personal liking.

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That method certainly works for me. And the result is spot on look. I’m well happy.

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2° toe in is Serial M06 and very good for driving this beast. As you have 2 piece lower whishbones, you could compensate the wheelbase offset with 3 mm spacers. I´ve done it on an M03 in my showroom, ist the same principle.

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