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Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

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2 hours ago, Snappy1 said:

They are the re re  high cap Top Force springs painted with PS-1

The springs look great painted Snappy. How's the paint holding up to running? I'd be worried it flake off after a pack or two.

1 hour ago, SteppenwolfAUT said:

I am not sure about the o-rings in BOTH of the rear wheel axle and joint cup. It makes the drive shafts stuck a bit, meaning if I adjust the upper rods to the 26mm distance as stated in the manual, the rear wheels need more force to be turned as if I set the rods to 28+mm or remove one of the o-rings. Anyone else experienced that? By the way, I shimmed both the rear axles in the uppers and the differential gear in the gearbox, which I both found to have a lot of play by factory settings.

The instructions are like general guidelines. Do what feels right and if the bones come flying out, well, go back to two lol.

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The shocks seem to be too soft (even though I filled the rears with hard and the front with medium damper oil). Any suggestions for other dampers or at least harder springs?

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Hi @SteppenwolfAUT

use the O’rings as per instructions or swap the O’rings for pink Tamiya neoprene bushes inside the drive cups and wheel axles.  You might feel drag with the suspension hanging down but when the car is resting / running with the rear suspension and drive shafts horizontal, there will be no drag.

Make sure you shim the piston on each shock shaft so that the piston isn’t tipping over inside the shock cylinder.  You can also move the shaft guide inside the rear shocks to the lower position so when you build the rear shocks you put the two O’ring seals in first and the guide in last.

I use these mods along with Blitzer Beetle / Stadium Blitzer rear springs and CC01 front springs for best results with standard CVA shocks in the Super Astute.

I hope this helps.

#Edit#. Looking at some more pics, the new Super Astute might even have Blitzer rear springs.  I’m waiting on an order but very interested now in the kit springs....they might be ideal.

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You are probably right about the blitzer rear springs, I bought blitzer rear hubs for my Dyna Storm, the Astute re re are the identical part 

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Well I have finished the build and test run around the house, all good.

I still need to look at fitting rear uni's, but first a good run, it wheel stands in the house on carpet, backflips would be more precise, the Super Modified motor sounds incredible spinning up.

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Naked shot , square shorty pack fits, just

Quickrun 1080 esc fitted, they come with a program card which is a great add on for brushed motors.

Theibault , the PS paint seems to stick OK to springs, I have a couple of runners that are colour coded, 

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4 hours ago, Snappy1 said:

 

Theibault , the PS paint seems to stick OK to springs, I have a couple of runners that are colour coded, 

 

Thanks for the info, as PS paint is designed to be flexible for Lexan bodies, it seems reasonable also to handle the flex of springs. They fit gorgeous in white to the boxart paint Job, well done!:)

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Here's a rear end shot, and the vintage  alloy counter gear mated up with the new dual plate slipper shaft

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@Snappy1 When I saw the press pics of this I was convinced that doing a regular red astute to it would be better looking, but yours looks fantastic. White springs look great and the white gear cover is so nice. Love it. Hope it drives as good as it looks. What's the spec on the 1080? And super modified motor? I am not at all up on brushed systems. 

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The 1080 esc is just a better version of the popular 1060 esc, it has FWD Cont rating of 80 amp instead of 60 and burst of 400 amp, compared to 360 for the 1060, with the included program card it gives lots of options for drag brake etc

Motor limit on 2s is 10T

The Super modified motor is an 11 T double from 2001, it is Tamiya's hottest brushed motor, it specs are

Useable voltage 7.2 to 8.4 v

Torgue at best efficiency 250g-cm @ 7.2v

RPM best efficiency 27000 rpm @7.2v

Best Efficiency 78% 7.2v

RPM no load 38000 rpm 7.2v, so on 8.4v you have over 40,000 rpm

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So I just finished building my re-re Super Astute, and I came across a few oddities... like a part on the G parts tree that is on the tree, but not in the drawing of said tree on page 25 of the manual (doesn't matter, because the same part is also on tree A, both in reality and in the schematic). Or the fact that the E-clips used thruout the build are clearly of an entirely different size than those depicted in the manual. Haven't seen that from Tamiya before. Or the use of a size of hex nut that doesn't fit any end of the standard Tamiya tool.

But one thing really puzzles me. Part A4, the gearbox (or gearbox main frame), first shown in step 12 (page 8) of the manual, clearly has TWO mounts on the top left side, where the MSC resistor used to be on the original release. They're clearly shown in the manual and in the official Tamiya press pictures. However, my kit came with an A4 that has only ONE of those mounts, the forward one.

The strange thing is - the other mount used to be there at some point. It has been removed, mechanically.

It looks like it was drilled out. Not broken off, that would leave some sort of stress mark around the base of the mount, I guess, but very cleanly and accurately drilled out.

This was a shrink-wrapped, unopened, brand new kit from a major supplier, with the A parts tree in its unopened bag inside the sealed box inside the shrink-wrapped main box. Certainly wasn't transport damage, plus the missing bit (which isn't all that small) wasn't in the (undamaged) bag, nor in the box. Even weirder, the A4 wasn't attached to the A parts tree inside the bag... Ok, that happens, parts breaking loose on their own, but on the tree side, A4 has been obviously twisted off, while on the A4 side, there's a clean cut where the part attached to the tree. As if the original A4 was removed and replaced with a drilled-out part.

Either way, my gearbox has only one mount, with absolutely no apparent reason why the other one would have to be removed - and it looks like both cars pictured in the posts above have only one mount, too.

Why? Makes absolutely no sense to me. Any ideas?

 

 

 

 

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My car has only one mount on the gearbox, 

I have no idea why ?

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48 minutes ago, Snappy1 said:

My car has only one mount on the gearbox, 

I have no idea why ?

Me too, I cut the other one off so it doesnt look odd

 

 

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Pic of my Super Astute, with rear mount quite obviously removed at the factory.

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Interesting, so someone is taking the time to cut one off on the assembly line, why?

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That is very odd. On the Astute those mounts are utilized for the mechanical speed controller resistor and on the King Cab they are used to mount the chassis to the trans.

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1 hour ago, GTodd said:

on the King Cab they are used to mount the chassis to the trans.

Hmmm...any conspiracy theorist here? A secret ploy to keep spares out of the hands of diehard King Cab/Monster Racer fans? Seriously though, this is a very odd thing for Tamiya to do  

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2 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Hmmm...any conspiracy theorist here? A secret ploy to keep spares out of the hands of diehard King Cab/Monster Racer fans? Seriously though, this is a very odd thing for Tamiya to do  

It truly is weird, but so is the lack of spares, I so want to repair the vintage car on the left, I have a new front bulkhead, bulkhead support, just need front arms

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9 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Hmmm...any conspiracy theorist here? A secret ploy to keep spares out of the hands of diehard King Cab/Monster Racer fans? Seriously though, this is a very odd thing for Tamiya to do  

So what you're saying is... Tamiya is deliberately trying to limit the usefulness of the Super Astute gearbox for King Cab/Monster Racer applications... in order to keep down re-sparked interest in worn out King Cab/Monster Racer original releases... because they're interested in cornering that market themselves... because THE RE-RELEASE OF THE KING CAB IS IMMINENT??!!

Hey, YOU started that rumor, not me :D

 

I have a hard time believing that that's the real reason behind the mystery mod, but you know what, I'm going to believe it anyway. If I can get a King Cab out of it, even better.

 

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5 hours ago, S-PCS said:

because THE RE-RELEASE OF THE KING CAB IS IMMINENT??!!

And now, we shall see just how deep the rabbit hole goes...tricky Tamiya, very tricky.

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On 12/30/2018 at 9:11 AM, Snappy1 said:

Theibault , the PS paint seems to stick OK to springs, I have a couple of runners that are colour coded,

Did you use the primer before the PS paint? I might spray springs on my old TA-01 as well and also have the Tamiya Primer spray here.

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Almost ready. Just the motor and esc to fit.

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