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Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

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Nice!

 

Mine just got delivered yesterday.  It will be about a week or two before I start on it has I have a few other things going on, but looking forward to it!

 

 

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11 hours ago, SteppenwolfAUT said:

Did you use the primer before the PS paint? I might spray springs on my old TA-01 as well and also have the Tamiya Primer spray here.

No primer, just straight PS-1

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Is it just me or is everyone either

A. Been hoarding Top for hi cap dampers 

or

B. Pulled their hi cap dampers off their top force. 

Not saying it’s a bad thing! I’ll be pulling my extra set off my manta ray. 

Juls

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Mine are loaners till I get a set of aeration dampers. Which are quite nice. Just couldn't use those plastic CVA units, really awful.

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All ready. Just took her for a quick road test, shifts along nice and smooth on the 11t Super Mod, even on Nimh.

Annoying gripe in my OCD, the battery clamp fouls the body, needs a bit of a grind as I don't want it rubbing my paint off.

Looks so nice at speed, needs more steering mind you, very pushy.

 

Lee

20190102_155130.jpg

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20 hours ago, ralphee said:

All ready. Just took her for a quick road test, shifts along nice and smooth on the 11t Super Mod, even on Nimh.

Annoying gripe in my OCD, the battery clamp fouls the body, needs a bit of a grind as I don't want it rubbing my paint off.

Looks so nice at speed, needs more steering mind you, very pushy.

 

Lee

20190102_155130.jpg

Gorgeous! "Pushy" you say, welcome to the world of 90s Tamiya 2WD buggies. Understeer can be dialed oit but it is a very fine window that is dependent on the surface you run on, tires, and dampening.

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Metallic tape on the body to stop the rub?

Can anyone place a normal servo on just to show how it could foul battery holder? Thanks

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39 minutes ago, GTodd said:

Gorgeous! "Pushy" you say, welcome to the world of 90s Tamiya 2WD buggies. Understeer can be dialed oit but it is a very fine window that is dependent on the surface you run on, tires, and dampening.

Yeah I know, the old cars had there demons lol.

I've took a whack of Toe out away from kit, gone to neutral. One hole in on the front arms, try that. Think I will try some anti squat too.

 

Lee

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35 minutes ago, taffer said:

Metallic tape on the body to stop the rub?

Can anyone place a normal servo on just to show how it could battery holder? Thanks

Well, it fouls the body TBH, doesn't quite seat fully, bit of a Tamiya oversight? Do need to do a few shorty Lipo runs too though TBF.

 

Lee

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1 hour ago, taffer said:

Can anyone place a normal servo on just to show how it could foul battery holder? Thanks

Demo servo is a Tamiya TSU-05

DSC_2209.JPG

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Looks like a few shims ought to do the job, while still leaving enough room for the servo saver on the other side. 

DSC_2213.JPG

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On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 5:29 PM, ralphee said:

All ready. Just took her for a quick road test, shifts along nice and smooth on the 11t Super Mod, even on Nimh.

Annoying gripe in my OCD, the battery clamp fouls the body, needs a bit of a grind as I don't want it rubbing my paint off.

Looks so nice at speed, needs more steering mind you, very pushy.

 

Lee

20190102_155130.jpg

Do you have a front view, Lee? It seems you used the mini hicaps in front from Avante 2011? Was it a direct replacement? I ordered some for my buddies SA, as I think they should be a plugin replacement for the CVAs. Would like to hear your feed back. For me and my friend Thomas, shorter front shocks is a bit more true to the looks of the SA. So we want to go that way, too.;)

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Yes they are the Egress Hicaps. Fit OK, does need the shaft spacing but other than that all good. Would like a longer/taller tower to allow more travel.

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10 hours ago, ralphee said:

Yes they are the Egress Hicaps. Fit OK, does need the shaft spacing but other than that all good. Would like a longer/taller tower to allow more travel.

Does the Dynastorm tower fit? Otherwise measure up the astute tower, draw it and extend as you see fit. Fibre lyte will make it for you in 4mm carbon for a few quid

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 Two of mine are  fitted with  Dyna Storm front towers, it bolts straight up, 

I had a Dyna tower on the front of a Madcap for a while lol

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Ahhh, nice too fellas, fibrelyte and a Dyna tower sound good. Want to fit aeration units in the near, so that would work out well. Can't fault Fibrelyte, used them for my YZ10 parts and 503 chassis and decks.

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Is anyone here able to see if the Dynastorm body will fit over the SA chassis and undertray?

It'll sure need to be trimmed in the rear but wondered if it would fit this car.

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I just checked, yes it will but the rear of the Dyna shell around the rear window would need to be removed completely, it will look odd at the steering section just before the front tower as the Dyna gets very narrow, the Astute is wider 

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Cheers snappy, may have a look at a Penguin repro and see what I can do.

 

Bests.....lee

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Has anyone fit up a set of DF-03 dampers #53926 on their SA? I see in the manual Tamiya recommends this set as a hop up part, but I would think they would be too long?

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Is there a pdf manual somewhere?

Max

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On 1/1/2019 at 4:39 PM, ralphee said:

Almost ready. Just the motor and esc to fit.

20190101_163502.jpg

20190101_163513.jpg

Them hi-cap shocks just make any car they are attached to look so good! Lovely car bud👍

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On 1/5/2019 at 11:54 AM, Hobbimaster said:

Has anyone fit up a set of DF-03 dampers #53926 on their SA? I see in the manual Tamiya recommends this set as a hop up part, but I would think they would be too long?

Someone with the ReRe manual should have the instructions for how to build the shocks. The Manta Ray ReRe specifies these shocks but has the opposite problem with the front shocks (these shocks are 75mm long stock and the Manta Ray needs 87mm). Only thing I can find that is close is g he DT02 MS manual (page8) which also uses these shocks, but needs 70mm long (mini shock long eyelet length). On that you build the shock with the short cva eyelet end from the base kit instead of the one that comes with the shocks. There is also a spacer on the outside of the shock shaft to limit travel to the same as the cva shock too. My guess is that building like this but with the smaller spacer on the inside of the shock you will end up with around 68mm shock length, then maybe use the outermost hole on the arms to maintain ride height same as the 64mm long mini shocks or Hicaps. 

Also worth noting the Buggy Aeration Damper set 54028 is still available (not big bore) and not much more than the DF03 set. 

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50 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Someone with the ReRe manual should have the instructions for how to build the shocks. The Manta Ray ReRe specifies these shocks but has the opposite problem with the front shocks (these shocks are 75mm long stock and the Manta Ray needs 87mm). Only thing I can find that is close is g he DT02 MS manual (page8) which also uses these shocks, but needs 70mm long (mini shock long eyelet length). On that you build the shock with the short cva eyelet end from the base kit instead of the one that comes with the shocks. There is also a spacer on the outside of the shock shaft to limit travel to the same as the cva shock too. My guess is that building like this but with the smaller spacer on the inside of the shock you will end up with around 68mm shock length, then maybe use the outermost hole on the arms to maintain ride height same as the 64mm long mini shocks or Hicaps. 

Also worth noting the Buggy Aeration Damper set 54028 is still available (not big bore) and not much more than the DF03 set. 

Yes, you are correct. I have the manual now since finally receiving my SA that was supposed to be here before the holidays. The only thing Tamiya shows in the manual is using what looks like the kit supplied lower eyelet front and rear. Other wise the build up of the DF-03 dampers looks to be as standard. I have the DF-03 set on the way along with the white setting spring set, and will give those a try.

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