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Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

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Just had a read through the buggy damper thread, that should really be a sticky thread...anyway, rcmart have the DF03 and TRF aeration dampers for basically the same price. DF03 shocks would be the way to go on this one right? They will fit fine on the standard towers and while they'll look out of place as they're modern, they'll perform well.

Why does it take one night of looking at stuff to blow the budget?

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3 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Just had a read through the buggy damper thread, that should really be a sticky thread...anyway, rcmart have the DF03 and TRF aeration dampers for basically the same price. DF03 shocks would be the way to go on this one right? They will fit fine on the standard towers and while they'll look out of place as they're modern, they'll perform well.

Why does it take one night of looking at stuff to blow the budget?

How long are the rear dampers in the kit? The DF03 rear dampers are REALLY long. Like over 100mm eye to eye long. I have mine built down to 85mm on my Thunder Dragon with a lot of spacers, which i am never that keen on. I suppose i could buy shorter damper rods though. Nice shocks, but i have had trouble with them slicing the top oil seals. Whilst the buggy damper thread is amazing, i don't find them any better than the buggy aerations i have on my TRF211 and i have had less trouble with those, and the rears start at 93mm which probably closer to what you need. And the aerations come with soft TRF white springs instead of quite stiff DF03 gold springs. The white ones are likely to suit the SA a bit better. If you have some spare long shock eyelets from CVA shocks to try on the ends of the front shocks to get the ride height right on the dynastorm front tower, i would lean towards the aerations myself. 

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I'm delaying the build as long as possible as I have at least 29 more days at home, but of course have read the manual a few times. The spur gears are almost here but the turnbuckles and pinions are still in Hong Kong, but have left rcmart.

No decision on the shocks yet, and keep hovering over the xtra speed carbon chassis set...

Is it best to replace the 850 metal bushings in the steering with ball bearings? Or are they best left as bushings?

I assume the 730s in the suspension arms are best left as bushings too

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I fitted 850 bearings in the steering on mine

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On 3/20/2020 at 8:32 AM, Thommo said:

@LongRat might be able to shed some light on this car if I'm not mistaken !

Lee's car is running one of my aluminium transmission braces.  I didn't make any of the other parts on this one, though.

 

 

AstuteTransBrace.jpg

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I found one of those braces NIP from Stormer going through some boxes of parts we found in the back of an old hobby shop we bought. Hope it helps the transmission handle the mighty horsepower of a 17.5 on 2S!

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Big Jon said:

I found one of those braces NIP from Stormer going through some boxes of parts we found in the back of an old hobby shop we bought. Hope it helps the transmission handle the mighty horsepower of a 17.5 on 2S!

It will do its job, Stormer made Gold alloy also which I still have NIB..  I used the Thorp Blue and Stormer Silver on my KnigCab/Monster Racer trucks for racing back in the day.

 

Edited by highflyer
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Ok, last question, honest. This build has got out of hand but will be a good result.

Do I just need the Dyna Storm front tower to convert to Top Force Hi Caps at the front? Or is there a spacer or something needed to fit the tower too?

Since I'm ordering the shock tower from Fibre-lyte, should I get anything else while I'm at it? Not the chassis, thats too expensive, rear tower or that brace? Or are they just nice to have?

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13 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Ok, last question, honest. This build has got out of hand but will be a good result.

Do I just need the Dyna Storm front tower to convert to Top Force Hi Caps at the front? Or is there a spacer or something needed to fit the tower too?

Since I'm ordering the shock tower from Fibre-lyte, should I get anything else while I'm at it? Not the chassis, thats too expensive, rear tower or that brace? Or are they just nice to have?

I'm not sure if you need spacers to make the Hi Caps work, but you will need to drill a hole through that tower to use the stock body mount. You will also need to trim down a small portion of that tower to make the body mount fit flush. The brace does not come with countersunk holes to mount the rear shock assembly, you will need to countersink them. You might as well as get the rear tower while you're at it, Fibre-lyte is top quality.

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2 hours ago, King Zulu said:

I'm not sure if you need spacers to make the Hi Caps work, but you will need to drill a hole through that tower to use the stock body mount. You will also need to trim down a small portion of that tower to make the body mount fit flush. The brace does not come with countersunk holes to mount the rear shock assembly, you will need to countersink them. You might as well as get the rear tower while you're at it, Fibre-lyte is top quality.

Is that just one hole in the centre of the mount?  Comparing the 2 that appears to the be the only difference, but thats assuming the other holes are all in the right place

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I have 2 setup with Dyna towers and 1 with a Fibre Lyte carbon, drill bolt hole, fit front body mount and bolt up, I have had these towers on a Madcap.

Here is my Re re during my build

 

Super Astute.jpeg

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On 3/29/2020 at 12:54 PM, Big Jon said:

I found one of those braces NIP from Stormer going through some boxes of parts we found in the back of an old hobby shop we bought. Hope it helps the transmission handle the mighty horsepower of a 17.5 on 2S!

That's nothing for that gearbox. I used to run 10 turn doubles in my Monster Racer and OG Astute. 

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2 hours ago, Snappy1 said:

I have 2 setup with Dyna towers and 1 with a Fibre Lyte carbon, drill bolt hole, fit front body mount and bolt up, I have had these towers on a Madcap.

Here is my Re re during my build

 

Super Astute.jpeg

Cool thanks, the picture helped and I compared to the manual.  That looks easy enough, I've had bad experiences trying to drill carbon when the holes have to be perfect (ie the 2 mount holes) but that hole could be out by a 1mm and it wouldn't matter.  Other than annoy me every time I looked at the off-centre body mount.

The turnbuckles are still in Hong Kong, ordered 2 weeks ago now, pre-lockdown.  I hope they don't get stuck at customs as we keep getting mixed messages about what will get through and what won't.

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Dyna front tower is FRP, so very easy to drill

 

 

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1 hour ago, Snappy1 said:

Dyna front tower is FRP, so very easy to drill

 

 

I have ordered one from Fibre-lyte so its carbon...but will be fine. My problem has been needing to drill 4 holes in the right spot for a mount, not just a single one. Could have got a Dyna Storm NOS one but was the same price and used so went with a new carbon one

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9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Is that just one hole in the centre of the mount?  Comparing the 2 that appears to the be the only difference, but thats assuming the other holes are all in the right place

Yup, just that one hole, all the other holes are in the right place. Just use the stock tower as a template, attach it to the new tower with a couple of screws/nuts, and proceed to drill. This will allow the body mount to be perfectly centered. 

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27 minutes ago, King Zulu said:

Yup, just that one hole, all the other holes are in the right place. Just use the stock tower as a template, attach it to the new tower with a couple of screws/nuts, and proceed to drill. This will allow the body mount to be perfectly centered. 

It is so obvious once you say it but I would never have thought to do it!

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 does anyone know if the df03 hop-up dampers 53926 fit on the super astute I've been informed that they are a brilliant (but very expensive) upgrade for a fair few other tamiya models I have a friend who has a desert gator and he says they have transformed the  performance of it and they do look the business and I just can't get over how naff the stock front shocks look on the super astute!

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1 hour ago, moffman said:

 does anyone know if the df03 hop-up dampers 53926 fit on the super astute I've been informed that they are a brilliant (but very expensive) upgrade for a fair few other tamiya models I have a friend who has a desert gator and he says they have transformed the  performance of it and they do look the business and I just can't get over how naff the stock front shocks look on the super astute!

On page 16 of the manual it says they are the recommended hop up option. I went with Top Force hicaps and a Dyna Storm front tower in the end as the Hi Caps look cool

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7 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

On page 16 of the manual it says they are the recommended hop up option. I went with Top Force hicaps and a Dyna Storm front tower in the end as the Hi Caps look cool

Excellent thanks! I haven't received my super astute yet it's on it's way to me so I haven't seen the manual, I was supposed to be in ibiza next week but for obvious reasons that's long gone:( so it's just cancellation and work so to cheer myself up I decided to order that for my rest days :)

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Hi! First Tamiya build and post on this forum for me. I’ve found the forum really interesting and useful so far 👍🏽

Ive got a build question- I’ve just completed step 21 (inserting rear dog bones and turnbuckles). After installing the turnbuckles I’ve noticed the rear arms won’t sag the same as front end. They’re the specified length.. is this normal?

Thanks 🤙🏽

image.jpg

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Ease off the negative camber by increasing the length of the turnbuckles. Place the chassis on a flat surface so the arms are horizontal and adjust the camber to neutral with the wheel axles also horizontal.

use o'rings or neoprene bushes (1 each side) inside each drive cup.  The driveshaft should be able to move  end to end a tiny bit in horizontal.  

Neutral camber is the best start point and only very little negative camber if any for this car.  The rear arms will move freely too.

 

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22 hours ago, gregdogghurst said:

Hi! First Tamiya build and post on this forum for me. I’ve found the forum really interesting and useful so far 👍🏽

Ive got a build question- I’ve just completed step 21 (inserting rear dog bones and turnbuckles). After installing the turnbuckles I’ve noticed the rear arms won’t sag the same as front end. They’re the specified length.. is this normal?

Thanks 🤙🏽

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

I'll remember that point when I get to it! Sorry can't be any help I haven't started my one yet!

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It looks like you have alot of negative camber, the dogbones are probably binding due the camber being so aggresive.

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On 4/4/2020 at 3:01 AM, Thommo said:

 

Ease off the negative camber by increasing the length of the turnbuckles. Place the chassis on a flat surface so the arms are horizontal and adjust the camber to neutral with the wheel axles also horizontal.

use o'rings or neoprene bushes (1 each side) inside each drive cup.  The driveshaft should be able to move  end to end a tiny bit in horizontal.  

Neutral camber is the best start point and only very little negative camber if any for this car.  The rear arms will move freely too.

 

 

17 hours ago, GTodd said:

It looks like you have alot of negative camber, the dogbones are probably binding due the camber being so aggresive.

Yes thanks guys. I figured the turnbuckles were too short but thought it was odd because I’d made them to the specified length. All sorted now and dialled out the front toe setting to neutral while I was at it. 

Greg

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