khyzersoze

KhyzerSoze's GMADE GS02 BOM Build

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So I'm joining the party of BOM build threads.  Since the other threads show more of the custom mods, etc.  I'll post more detailed step by steps for the stock build for those of you that want to see that, until I fully finish and then venture off into upgrading parts and modifying.

Here's what we're building.

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Follow this build on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnWfHyV3LtMDy_StBW8EJELNBdAKseKe1

Kit:

GMADE GS02 BOM (available on eBay)

Parts:

Yeah Racing Aluminum 540 Motor Spacer Heatsink (available on eBay)
Boom Racing 25T Alloy Servo Horn
Team Associated #5422 30wt Oil (available on eBay)
X-Rings from Traxxas 2362 Rebuild Kit
GS02 Hardened universal shaft set (J30035) (ebay)
GA44 Heavy duty diff locker (GM30112) (ebay)
BOM exterior detail parts tree (Black) [GM60120] (ebay)
BOM mirror L/R [GM30128] (ebay)
BOM cage hinge (Titanium gray) [GM30137] (ebay)
Crawler Innovations 1.9 XL Deuces Wild Single Stage foams (available on eBay)
Pro-Line 1.9 Super Swamper TSL XL G8 Tires (available on eBay)
Injora 1.9 Beadlock Wheels (available on eBay)
Axial SCX10 Wheel Wells (AX31150) (ebay)
GS02 aluminum shock brace GM30130 (ebay) (currently unused)
GS02 stainless steel front under guard GM30150 (ebay)
GS02 cantilever sway bar GM30143 (ebay)
GMADE Aluminum 12mm Wheel Hub (4) (8mm Thick) GM30131 (ebay)
Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 324mm Wheelbase GM30133, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused)
Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 336mm Wheelbase GM30134, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused)
Gmade Cantilever Arm Set, for GS02 BOM (Titanium Gray) GMA30139 (ebay)
GMADE Komodo Roof Rack & Accessories (ebay) (currently unused)
SSD Pro SCX10 II Aluminum Knuckles SSD00144 (available on eBay)
SSD Brass Weights (Black version) SSD00140 (available on eBay)

Electronics:

Turnigy MG959 V2 Servo (available on eBay)
Yeah Racing Hackmoto 550 35T Brushed Motor (available on eBay)
FlySky R6B 2.4GHz 6-Channel Receiver (available on eBay)
FlySky GT-3C 2.4 GHz Radio (available on eBay)

Tools:

Versachem Brake Caliper Grease
Noleen SF3 Grease (available on eBay)
Turnigy Metric Torque Wrench Hex Driver Set
Tamiya Side Cutter
DEWALT DCF610S2R 12V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Hex Chuck Screwdriver Kit
MIP Metric Speed Tip Set MIP9512
Bob Smith Industries Blue Thread Locker
ProTek RC Shock Pliers (available on eBay)
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Set - 1mm, 2mm and 4mm
Tamiya PS-63 Bright Gunmetal (ebay)
Duratrax Gunmetal (ebay)

 

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Steps 1-13: Axles

Let's begin

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Parts needed for this step

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Metal balls given to the first batch of BOMs

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The well labeled hardware bags.  Wish they would've went a step further and grouped the hardware by steps as well.

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Ready to begin

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Diff gears finished

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Pinion Gear side of the axle

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The other side of the axle

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All greased up

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C-Hubs going on

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Front CVDs

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Knuckles

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Link mounts

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Time for the rear axle

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Front and rear axles all done

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Steps 14-19 + 25: Transmission

We start with the B-bag.

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Step 14 parts

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Assembled gears

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Parts for the next steps

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Assembled and greased up

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Spur gear goes on.  They use stacked conical washers instead of a spring for the slipper.  Directions say to fully tighten the lock nut, and then loosen by about a quarter turn.  Here's how it looks.

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Parts for the next step.. More e-clips yay...

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Assembled gears...

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Skipping to step 25 like new2rocks did.

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Greased up.  I wonder how the 2-speed option setup would look in this spot.  That empty space has to be for something.

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Transmission complete.

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Steps 20-23: Links

This is going to be a pretty short step/post.


Bag of parts for these steps

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Starting the front lower links

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Front upper link

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Rear lower links

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Rear upper links

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Steps 24 + 26-29: Chassis

Time to move onto the chassis.  For this step, I also used the following non-kit items...

Turnigy MG959 V2 Servo (available on eBay)
Yeah Racing Hackmoto 550 35T Brushed Motor (available on eBay)
Yeah Racing Aluminum 540 Motor Spacer Heatsink (available on eBay)
Boom Racing 25T Alloy Servo Horn


These are the parts needed for the battery tray

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I'll be using the Turnigy MG959 V2 Servo and a Boom Racing 25T Servo Horn

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Servo mounted onto the battery tray/servo mount assembly

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These are the parts needed to start putting the frame rails together

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It's starting to look like a chassis!

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That under-frame receiver box that everybody has been putting weights in...  I might do the same.

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Time to get those links on

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Links mounted

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Parts for mounting the motor

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I'll be using a Yeah Racing Hackmoto 550 35T Brushed Motor

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So... I ran into a snag with this motor.  The motor shaft is longer than normal, and I couldn't put the transmission cover on without hitting the motor shaft.  So I had to get Yeah Racing Aluminum 540 Motor Spacer Heatsink

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With the spacer installed, I was now able to have the motor shaft clear.

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One thing I am concerned about is the pinion/spur mesh.  It's tighter than I would like, and since the motor mount uses pre-set mounting holes, there's really no fine adjustment available.  I will revisit this area later after I complete my build to see if there is a way I can make the pinion/spur mesh more to my liking.

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Steps 30-35: Shocks

This update is going to be relatively straightforward.

I also used the Traxxas X-Rings from the 2362 Rebuilt kit like OSRC did.

Parts:

Traxxas 2362 Rebuild Kit


Bag "E" of shock parts.

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Those blue X-rings inside the Traxxas 2362 Rebuild kit.

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Noleen SF3 Grease (available on eBay)

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Team Associated #5422 30wt Oil (available on eBay)

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ProTek RC Shock Pliers (available on eBay)

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Duratrax Shock stand

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Parts needed for Step 30

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O-rings put around the shock caps

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Parts needed for Step 31

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Using the blue X-rings from Traxxas 2362 Rebuild Kit

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Pistons on the shafts.

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Time to put the front shocks together

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Parts for Step 32

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rear shock assembly getting there

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Decided to put the rod-ends on early

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Filling the shocks up with Team Associated #5422 30wt Oil (available on eBay)

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Step 33 done

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Parts for Step 34

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Step 34 done

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Parts for Step 35

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Step 35 done

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Shocks all done

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Steps 36-48: Driveshafts, Suspension, Steering.

Covered a bit of ground in this update.


Getting on to the driveshafts.  We'll need the F-Bag

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Parts needed for lower front shaft

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Lower front shaft attached to front axle

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Parts needed for lower rear shaft

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Lower rear shaft done

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The upper half of the driveshafts

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Parts for the cantilever suspension setup

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Putting the cantilever setup together

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Stock cantilever setup

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Hooking up the upper shafts to the transmission

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Front one going on...

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Front shocks mounted

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Time to get to the panhard rod.

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Now for the steering rods

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Was experiencing a bit of bump-steer with the combo of servo horn (Boom Racing low profile) and servo (Turnigy MG959 v2 30kg) that I was using, so I decided to add a 1mm spacer to correct that.

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Steps 49-55: Electronics boxes, Sliders, Bumper, Body Posts

The BOM is really starting to come together now.

Non kit parts used in these steps:

1. FlySky FS-R6B Receiver
2. Hobbywing 1080 Esc (available on eBay)

My FlySky FS-R6B Receiver and where it's going...

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Some parts for the wiring entrance of the receiver box.

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This is where it goes on the truck

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Going to be using a Hobbywing 1080 Esc (available on eBay)

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Parts for the sliders

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Mounted the box without the electronics for the time being.

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Front bumper.

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Body posts

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Steps 56-58: Wheels and Tires


This is going to be a short step... not much to see here, and I'm just putting these together for the sake of the stock build documentation.


You're going to need these...

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All mounted (little secret.. I haven't glued them yet)

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Now you'll need these.

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Ok.. this part done. See told you it was a short step.

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Step 59: Rear Cage

Here's one of the cooler parts of this truck.  I really like this rear cage/hinge setup.


Here are the parts needed

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Rear Cage put together

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Fuel cell painted up and attached to the cage

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Steps 60-65: Body & Completion

It's taken be quite a bit of time, and I'm finally done with the "stock" build.  I won't be stopping here though.  I wanted to build this truck completely stock first just to get that out of the way, but now it's time to start modding and running.


Lexan cab ready for painting

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Cab painted and decals applied.  My Plasti-dipped fender flares need some work that I'll revisit later.

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Here's the grille that I won't be permanently attaching, as I won't be using it.

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These are the parts you will need for the front grille

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This is how the front grille would look attached

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Parts needed for Side mirrors and door handles

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Mirrors and door handles attached

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Rear cage attached

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I love the rear cage hinge for this truck.  Very convenient.

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Stock build complete

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Thank you - really enjoyed reading this as it developed as not seen a gmade kit go together before. It looks quite nicely made - is the quality of the plastics and fixings any good?

And that steering linkage looks indestructable!

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I feel like the quality of the plastics is fine, but some people think it's soft?  At the same time those same people feel like the Axial plastic is good, while I think it's rubbery/soft.

I would say the plastic between Axial and GMADE is close.

My top 2 picks for plastics quality in a crawler are MST and Vaterra.  Those 2 have really high quality plastic.

HoBao also has pretty nice quality plastic, but they've only got 1 crawler out.

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Moving on to option parts and upgrades.

First up....  Junfac Drive Shafts and Upgraded Diff Lockers.

GS02 Hardened universal shaft set (J30035) (ebay)
GA44 Heavy duty diff locker (GM30112) (ebay)


Here are the goods

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Taking care of the drive shaft first.

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Drive shafts added.

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Stock diff locker about to come out

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What's about to go into the axles

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The indentation to properly assemble the diff locker

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Upgraded diff locker assembled

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Upgraded diff locker in the axle

45001799424_4fa7e62884_b.jpg


Repeated the same process for the other axle.

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Some cosmetic updates for the BOM.

BOM exterior detail parts tree (Black) [GM60120] (ebay)
BOM mirror L/R [GM30128] (ebay)
BOM cage hinge (Titanium gray) [GM30137] (ebay)
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Set - 1mm, 2mm and 4mm


The parts I'll be adding

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Never really liked chrome.  Just not a fan of it.

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Door handles and side mirrors added

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Used Molotow liquid chrome markers to properly chrome out the light buckets

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Prepping for mounting

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Here's how they look mounted

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Time to put on the hinge parts

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So the hinge parts for the most part is just a preference, and not really an upgrade.  The stock plastic ones for all intents and purposes work just fine.

The difference is that the option hinge lets you bolt down the hinge so that it stays on the chassis when lifted.

On the other hand.. the stock plastic one allows you to easily completely remove the body from the chassis by just sliding it out of the notch, whereas the metal option hinge would require you to unscrew it from the chassis.

It's really a preference, and I opted for the mounted to chassis option.
 

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Upgraded the wheels and tires for the BOM.

Crawler Innovations 1.9 XL Deuces Wild Single Stage foams (available on eBay)
Pro-Line 1.9 Super Swamper TSL XL G8 Tires (available on eBay)
Injora 1.9 Beadlock Wheels (available on eBay)

Testing some image hosting out, so let me know if the pictures don't work.

This is the BOM on stock tire/wheel setup.

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The Injora wheels

2RIu7v7


Crawler Innovations 1.9 XL Deuces Wild foams

2PhieiV


Pro-Line Super Swamper TSL XL 1.9 G8 Tires

2D9NvNv


These are a perfect match

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All foams inserted, ready for wheels

2F9mgFz

2PNRJkL


All the wheels & tires mounted together

2SUQpex

2zBOiDI


How it sits now.

2FclQOz

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Some parts came in the mail recently.

GS02 aluminum shock brace GM30130 (ebay) (currently unused)
GS02 stainless steel front under guard GM30150 (ebay)
GS02 cantilever sway bar GM30143 (ebay)
GMADE Aluminum 12mm Wheel Hub (4) (8mm Thick) GM30131 (ebay)
Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 324mm Wheelbase GM30133, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused)
Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 336mm Wheelbase GM30134, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused)
Gmade Cantilever Arm Set, for GS02 BOM (Titanium Gray) GMA30139 (ebay)
GMADE Komodo Roof Rack & Accessories (ebay)

46423175061_609f6fbac5_b.jpg


Stainless front guard went on first.  I bought 3 generic silver ones made for the SCX10.2, but they were on the slow boat from China :roll:, so I went ahead and ordered the Black one from Junfac in Korea that came within a week. :shock:

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Next are the metal cantilever arms and the sway bar.  I decided to go with the medium bar for now.

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Comparison.  Metal on left, plastic on right

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Both installed

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Time for the sway bars. Soft (green), Medium (white), Hard (red)

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Sway bar on

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More stuff came in the mail.

SSD Pro SCX10 II Aluminum Knuckles SSD00144 (eBay)
SSD Brass Weights (Black version) SSD00140 (eBay)


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Ran into a snag with the hardware included with the brass weights....  1 of the 4 screws was too long.

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Anyway, I used a dremel to cut it down as I did not happen to have that particular size screw in my parts boxes.  I was reluctant to do this, because I was worried about a bad cutting job possibly ruining the threads of the knuckles.  I guess it turned out ok though.

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Looking good. How do the aluminum cantilevers compare to stock once mounted? I didn't like the plastic ones at all - seemed a bit flimsy to me. I ended up doing the rear shocks in the stand-up setting. 

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20 minutes ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:

Looking good. How do the aluminum cantilevers compare to stock once mounted? I didn't like the plastic ones at all - seemed a bit flimsy to me. I ended up doing the rear shocks in the stand-up setting. 

They're more solid I guess.  Less chance for things warping out of shape should it become stressed through twisting.  The stock plastic ones were 2 halves pieced together which I didn't care for.

 

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I got the replacement skid and transmission housing a few weeks ago, and I finally got around to installing them.


Here are the replacements.

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Here it is compared with the old transmission housing setup

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New skid also seems to be stronger material.  (New on left, Old on right)

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Top half of the transmission housing (new on left, old on right)

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Here's the real reason why the new setup will work.  All the gears are now meshed together at the top half the transmission housing, and kept in place by that top half.

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This is the old setup where these two gears were just placed in the bottom half of the transmission, and held in place by "sandwiching" the two halves of the transmission together.

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Awesome build thread. I keep looking at these. I might get one or a Cross truck, haven't decided yet lol. I'm glad I'm not the only one who knows the joys of Nolene grease. ;) Talked about it in my Comical Grasshopper build. Great job bud.

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35 minutes ago, Theibault said:

Awesome build thread. I keep looking at these. I might get one or a Cross truck, haven't decided yet lol. I'm glad I'm not the only one who knows the joys of Nolene grease. ;) Talked about it in my Comical Grasshopper build. Great job bud.

Thanks!  Your video seriously has me considering that Comical Grasshopper now LOL!  I'll probably wait to see what other comicals they release.

I for one like the cage and body on this kit, and I'm pretty happy with it.  That being said, if you don't like the body and cage so much, maybe wait for the new chassis kits coming out.  They're releasing this chassis in 2 flavors as raw building kits.  I'll probably pick up their "pro" chassis kit for my second GS02 chassis.

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I ran the truck today....  I... Absolutely... Love... This... Truck!

Drivetrain is so quiet!  Performs well as I have it right now, and I know that it's not even completely dialed in yet since it was my first run!  I'm going to have a lot of fun with this one.

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