Looking for advice on Wild Willy 2

[Willys 53 0]

I have been thinking about getting a Wild Willy 2, but I have some questions.

1.  I read elsewhere, but want to make sure, that some parts tree in the kit contains a c-hub to put a front hub on that would allow me to use axle stubs with hexes on them. Is this true?

2. Does anyone make new stickers that have the old graphics and not generic names, like the lights and and the Nos bottle?

3. Would oil shocks make a difference in driving, and if so, any recommendations?

[Shodog 1835]

1. It does come with some of the plastic parts. I’ve never built one up this way so I can’t speak more on the subject

2. Mci decals makes reprise of the originals

3.  Yes and no.  The stock shocks are just pogos and proper dampers will slow the suspension but it’s not a handling machine.  I have oil dampers on my Willy only because I had so many left over plastic ta02 dampers  

A set of bearings and a slightly overpowered motor and the Willy is a blast to run

[waterbok 1282]

1. yes it has the plastic parts, depending on what wheel offset you want you have to get standard or the WW wheel axle. 

2. MCI

3. Oil shocks , ball bearings, steel pinion, alloy hexes (rear 12mm), torque or sports tuned motor, waterproof esc (quicrun1060), tire inserts, Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set, LED kit. 

I got rid of all stepscrews and replaced with ballheads(dampers) or M3 screws with a bushing (upper arms) or Tamiya 50579 3x10mm Step Screw and M3 ballheads, the steering knuckle stepscrews also tend to live their own live so I replaced with alloy steering knuckles which hold the screws better with some loctite.

 

[Willys 53 0]

Thanks for the advice.  I didn't expect handling, but it seems like keeping it from bouncing could be good.

[Juggular 4964]

1.  Part B is a tree that was used in Wild Dagger originally.  So there are some unused parts because Wild Dagger is 4WD.  Here is a link to the WW2 instruction.  Page 21 shows the parts.  (darkened parts are unused parts: there are a pair of c-hubs)   https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/wr02.pdf

Talking about extra parts, there is a hook in the kit (with the driver tree).  The instruction doesn't tell you to use it, but you can use a frame hanging wire to attach it to the winch.  

2.  As waterbok already said, MCI makes old stickers new.  Google "MCI Racing, Canada" and you'll find it.  A Tamiya Club member recommended paying a bit of extra for "High Gloss Overcoat."  I think that's a good idea.  

3.  I found short aluminum dampers designed for on-road cars work.  It looks like waterbok's shocks are the same kind as my front shocks?  (They were pink, but they faded)  For the rear, I used some other shocks, but I have no idea what they are.  They came with some used car I bought.  Maybe other members know?  Oil shocks with softer springs do make it bounce less.  I prefer WW2 with oil shocks.   

 

 

[You don't think you'd lose something as big as that battery cover. But it's an expert in hiding in the grass. I put a leash on it.]

[MICHAELs TopForce17 586]

Get tamiya 54473 aluminum wheelie roller set it comes with bearings and 4 wheelie tires.

[Willys 53 0]

Thanks for the pictures and advice.  Bearings all the way around is definitely on the to-do list.

[waterbok 1282]

Yes the pink tend to fade away

These are the coolest period ones and the hardest to come by.

Another nice hopup, rear universals. which reminds me, to make the rear setup wear less, use hardened outdrives and hardened CR01 axles.

 

And did I mention LED?

Even in the rollbar