CC01 2.2 build

[Kingfisher]

I'm working on making my CC01 a more capable crawler. My plans are:

• TL01B front suspension
•  front mounted servo
• widen the rear axle or replace with a wider axle 
• 2.2 wheels
•  longer shocks 
• raised shock mounts 
• Bruiser hilux cab with hand made flat bed. 

 

So far, I have started on the front suspension.

 In order for the lower arms to fit, I had to file somewhere between 0.5 - 1mm off of the CC01 mounting location.

 

 

 

I made the upper arms from 3mm threaded rod. These are the same length eye-to-eye as WT01 upper arms. I'm currently waiting on the dogbones to arrive. 

 

 

With these arms, I gain close to 25mm ( 1 inch) of track width on each side. Here's pics with the Landfreeder body showing the difference.

 

 

With some larger 1.9's.

 

 

No rubbing at full lock with this body.

 

 

 

Here's the cab that I am going to use with 2.2 tires. Still collecting parts to complete the cab.

 

There is a gap where the side of the grill meets the body. Is that gap supposed to be there, or do I have mismatched parts? Maybe I just need to screw everything together.

 

 

For widening the rear axle, how would 25mm wheel wideners / spacers do? Once I measure the track width of the front, i'll see if any other Tamiya axles will fit back there.

I'll update as I make more progress and gather more parts. I'd like to use as many Tamiya parts as I can to complete this, though I don't think that is possible.

[Mad Ax]

Now there's a strange idea.  Need to see what you do with that rear axle.  You'll have to check gear ratios if you swap axles, and I would worry that spacers would bend the stubs - all you can do it try it and find out!

It might be possible to 3D-print a longer axle if you're prepared to get creative with extending the internal shafts...

[OldSchoolRC1]

Glad to see I'm not the only crazy guy running this setup! It's been very fun to wheel around, and surprisingly capable. 

I started with the stock rear axle, though I had to use huge hub extensions to make it work. It held up fine, and was a very cost effective start. I wouldn't worry about it if you are running 1.9 wheels and tires. 

Eventually I swapped a Vaterra Ascender rear axle and it's much, much better. The width is pretty close. I make up the difference with 5mm hub extensions on both sides.  The gear ratio works out perfect - puts a slight underdrive (approx 6%) in the rear which helps steering and climbing.  In fact, my 1.9 CC01 now runs a narrowed Ascender axle out back as well. It's a beautiful mod. 

I hope a few pics are ok? I don't mean to take over your thread. But they are sometimes worth a 1000 words. 

 

Looking forward to seeing yours come together! 

[Kingfisher]

1 hour ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:

 

Eventually I swapped a Vaterra Ascender rear axle and it's much, much better. The width is pretty close. I make up the difference with 5mm hub extensions on both sides.  The gear ratio works out perfect - puts a slight underdrive (approx 6%) in the rear which helps steering and climbing.  In fact, my 1.9 CC01 now runs a narrowed Ascender axle out back as well. It's a beautiful mod. 

I hope a few pics are ok? 

 

The more pics the better! Feel free to add them as you please. Yours is awesome. I know I have seen it somewhere, but don't remember too much about it. In fact, the only thing I remember about it is that your skid plate is made out of a pizza pan, right? I may have come across it on rccrawler. What driveshaft, suspension links, and shock length are you running in the rear? Thanks for the response.

At first, I was going to try to use lower arms from a TT02B, but it would have required a bit more filing on the CC01 side, and I doubt I would have found a rear axle to match the width.

[nowinaminute]

On 9/30/2018 at 6:39 PM, Kingfisher said:

For widening the rear axle, how would 25mm wheel wideners / spacers do?

I used cheapo 30mm ones on my Feiyue FY03 and they seem to work ok. No bending so far but it's quite a light vehicle. The only downside with the ones I got is that they weren't 100% snug on the stub axles so there was a little wobble which exaggerated the wobble that was already there due to it being a budget vehicle and not built to NASA tolerances. This turned out to be an easy fix though with the simple addition of a layer of clear sellotape around the stub axles before fitting the extenders.

I'm not sure how they would cope with hardcore trailin, on the one hand you have quite big forces working on the wheels but on the other hand there's not much speed involved normally. I reckon it's worth a dabble!

 

[Kingfisher]

1 hour ago, nowinaminute said:

I used cheapo 30mm ones on my Feiyue FY03 and they seem to work ok. No bending so far but it's quite a light vehicle. The only downside with the ones I got is that they weren't 100% snug on the stub axles so there was a little wobble which exaggerated the wobble that was already there due to it being a budget vehicle and not built to NASA tolerances. This turned out to be an easy fix though with the simple addition of a layer of clear sellotape around the stub axles before fitting the extenders.

I'm not sure how they would cope with hardcore trailin, on the one hand you have quite big forces working on the wheels but on the other hand there's not much speed involved normally. I reckon it's worth a dabble!

 

Thanks. I'm going to try the wheel spacers first. I'm still searching for rear axle ratio info. I've also got a 65-turn motor in it, so it's not fast at all. 

[OldSchoolRC1]

Yes, it was a pizza plate. 14" thin crust.   Have a bunch of them left over from my restaurant days, good for non-structural items. 

Info that might be useful:

CC01 axle width (at hexes) =165mm
Ascender width = 192mm (+27mm)
Sawback axle width = 183mm (+18mm)

CC01 axle gear ratio = 12/21, 1.75:1
Ascender ratio = 1.85:1 (-6% underdriven)
Sawback ratio = 2.21.1 (-13% underdriven)

Might be a few other axles out there, but these were the closest I found to the stock ratio. 

 

[Kingfisher]

Rear stripped.

 

Rear cut. 

 

Front cut. The point of no return. 

 

 

I was using the CC01 C-hubs and knuckles, but the front wheels kept binding up when steered left or right. It was so bad that I couldn't rotate the wheels anymore because the dogbones were trying to slip out, but just couldn't do it. I swapped the CC01 knuckles out for WT-01 knuckles (still using CC01 C-hubs), and the binding was gone. Also notice how much longer the tie rod mounts are on the WT01 knuckles.

 

I got this GPM 4-link kit over a year ago and never put it on. Test fitting it now, though I plan to make my own 4-link with longer links. I also extended the wheelbase to the longer mounts from what the Landfreeder was using.

 

 

An underside shot.

 

 

Some pre-shock articulation. 

 

 

 

 

This is about where the servo will mount. I need to trim the tub a bit more and make the mount.

 

 

Almost there. The servo is still a bit too far forward.

 

 

More to come.

[Kingfisher]

Servo mounted for now. Will be going back and changing the screws to M3 with washers and nuts.

 

It just barely clears the gearbox with this servo horn. I want to move the servo further back to better line up the tie rods, but will need to find a different servo horn first. I cannot go much lower with the servo as it just about sitting on the gearbox covers screws. (You can also see the epoxy job from back when I ripped out the upper control arm while chasing squirrels.) 

 

 

Tie rods made from M3 threaded rod and 4mm stainless tubing:

 

 

 

I had to turn the steering down to about 75%. It wanted to turn the wheels way passed full lock in both directions. 

[Kingfisher]

Thanks. The dogbones were listed as Tamiya Boomerang, but share the same part number as the Dual Hunter WT01. 

I'm currently working on a new servo mount which will also have front shock mounts in the same piece. I'm also still looking for a complete Vaterra rear axle. 

I don't think I can stand to unlock my front diff. Nothing more annoying than having the wheel without traction doing all of the spinning. Heck, I even locked the diff in my M05. 

@OldSchoolRC1 is running TL01B lower arms. Ever since his last post, I have found that if you google search for "CC01 2.2", you'll find a lot of info and threads posted by him going back quite a few years. All very helpful and something to learn from when it comes to modding the CC01. I thought I had some original ideas and then found out that he already did it 4 years ago! 

[OldSchoolRC1]

I've had a ton of these trucks over the years, starting with the XC-01 Jeep.   They are so much fun to build and modify. Unfortunately, most of my build pics were lost to the Photobucket debacle. 

The Ascender axle is not a severe overdrive, you'll barely notice it out on the trail. It does help, but the front doesn't overwhelm the rear or anything.  I downloaded the manual and ordered the parts individually - I could not find a standalone axle., and the prices for a used set were a bit much.  

@Kingfisher it's looking great! Keep up the great work!  Now that you've swapped the knuckles, TL01B universals will drop right in as well should you want to add them later. 

[Kingfisher]

I used these bushings to take out the play between the metal and plastic parts. There's still some slop, but I don't think there's a way to correct it. I think the metal parts and plastic parts have different tolerances, and you need to have metal C-hubs with metal arms, or plastic C-hubs with plastic arms. Hopefully, I can find some Tamiya plastic lower arms. I like the look of them better than the metal arms, though I wouldn't mind the metal C-hubs if it clears up the tiny amount of slop that's there.

 

 

I cut a piece of aluminum angle and started work on the servo/damper mount. Also drilled the chassis to mount the dampers behind the control arms. With that, I also trimmed the chassis a bit more to allow the servo to go further back, which now put the servo horn in contact with the front gearbox. The chassis damper holes aren't perfect circles, but will be once I run a file over them. I currently have 90mm dampers on there, but plan to experiment with different mounting holes and 100mm and 120mm dampers to see which work best. With the 90mm's, the stiff springs feels too stiff, but the medium springs are too soft. I think if I run a longer damper, then the medium springs on the longer dampers would meet in the middle. Only speculation. Will need trial and error to see before I start to trim and shape this piece of angle.

 

 

Any reason to get a new tool is a good reason right? I got this tubing bender and like it a lot so far. It's some kind of cast metal. Too light to be steel, and I am not convinced that it's good quality aluminum, but it works great. 

 

 

 

I started experimenting with different servo horns to try to get the steering links away from the front gearbox. The horn that I am using is branded PowerHD and gives plenty of clearance on the front gearbox. This is where the tubing bender comes in.

 

 

The ball ends are left over from my WT01 4x4x4 build. They bring the tie rods up and in line with the throw of the shorter servo horn.

 

 

 

 

I still need to realign the front steering. It's got a bit of toe-in now that I've put a bend in the tie rods. 

 

Trying out the 25mm spacers on the rear axle, I don't like them. The rear track is still about 15mm shorter than the front track, and they just don't look right without an axle going all of the way to the rim. Next, i'll be following the same route as @OldSchoolRC1 and collecting parts for a Vaterra axle. Cancel that opening line I said about trying to use all Tamiya parts. Once I get the rear axle sorted out, I plan to make new links and figure out the driveshaft from there. 

OldSchoolRC1, it looks like you have 2 driveshafts connected. What are you using the connect them together?

 

 

 

[Kingfisher]

120mm shocks installed.

 

 

Front ride height:

 

 

Full stretch:

 

 

Bottoming out:

 

 

Full compression:

 

 

With a spare tire stuck under the rear showing full stretch and ground clearance.

 

[geniusanthony]

For your front cut, I could offer you one of these from my shortened CC-01 Lunchbox. It looks like our front cut was about in the same spot. I printed mine in ABS so it bonded like crazy with that plastruct(sp) solvent.

[novicelad]

Great build! 

[Kingfisher]

6 hours ago, geniusanthony said:

For your front cut, I could offer you one of these from my shortened CC-01 Lunchbox. It looks like our front cut was about in the same spot. I printed mine in ABS so it bonded like crazy with that plastruct(sp) solvent.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I have enough room for it. The servo horn just barely clears the front gearbox. I plan to cut a piece of thin sheet metal to fill in that spot. I have seen and like your build. Nice job.

[Kingfisher]

Got some parts in. Still waiting to find or waiting for the rest to arrive.  I've decided to go with the Vaterra rear axle as @OldSchoolRC1 has done. I got this shaft conversion from GCMRacing which converts the Vaterra axle to accept the CC01 driveshaft. Also, I got 5mm boat couplers to make my own drive shaft if I decide to extend the wheelbase longer than the CC01 driveshaft.

 

 

Here's the tires I am going to run. 2.2 RC4WD Mud Slingers. Currently mounted on RPM Revolvers, though i'll move on to beadlocks before the build is complete. Here's some pics of a mock-up of the current progress. 

 

 

[Kingfisher]

Update. Got some different wheels for it. These are Hot Racing 2.2 beadlocks in raw steel finish. From my understanding, they're bare steel and will rust and weather on their own. I like the scale looks of them, including the tiny little valve stem. They have a nice bit of weight to them too. 

 

 

Rear axle is most of the way done, and in. Just need 2 more bearings to complete it.

 

 

Rear shock mounts are from an SCX10. 

 

 

I went back to the short wheel base for the time being as this meant that I could have it running a bit sooner by using one of my existing driveshafts. Unfortunately, I lack the correct grub screw for the vaterra axle and will need to collect that. Pinion angle for the rear also needs to be corrected. Will be done when I make new links for the 4-link.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the Landfreeder body, it loses its scale appearance. It now looks like a mini-monster truck. 

 

 

 

 

[Juls1]

It’s fun chopping and modding tamiyas isn’t it! Since you put mud tyres on it are you gonna take it mudding?

[TwistedxSlayer]

This build is ace

[Kingfisher]

2 hours ago, Juls1 said:

It’s fun chopping and modding tamiyas isn’t it! Since you put mud tyres on it are you gonna take it mudding?

I plan to take it more places than it was capable of in the beginning, and i'll have a Tamiya that can keep up with my girlfriends Axial.

 

 

 

 

[novicelad]

Excellent stuff

[78Triumph]

Looks good!  The front servo mod really transforms the CC-01 in ways that the aluminum steering upgrades with the servo in stock position just can't.