VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted October 4, 2018 I received these in the post yesterday. After a bit of searching around I think the lockouts are either RC4WD or Montana Scale Designs aluminium lockouts. What I can't find info on is the wheel axles with the female threads. Anyone have any knowledge of these, who makes/made them, etc.? I did have more Q's but I can't remember them right now... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted October 4, 2018 Thundertech used to sell female ended Clod CVDs from MIP - might be worth asking them or MIP if they made TLT versions Edit: They these? https://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=648http://www.rc-recycler.com/rcp-mip-hardened-cvd-axles-w-bearings-tamiya-tlt-crawler-scale-scaler.html 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldSchoolRC1 979 Posted October 4, 2018 Yes, they are MIP axles. I run them on my TLT. All but indestructible, they'll go through several sets of gears before those axles wear out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted October 4, 2018 They're MIP? Awesome! The long hex's that came with them are a bit on the short side, maybe 2mm, which means I might have to drill out a set of wheels specifically for these axles. That's something I'm not particularly happy doing at the best of times but, seeing as I've kinda gotten into that thing about giving specific wheels to specific projects, drilling out a set of wheels might not be too bad of an idea... Unless MIP made longer hexes for this kit? Next up: The axles appear to be locked on both front and rear. (Either that or they're both just really thickly greased?) My project idea at this moment isn't to do a dedicated crawler but more of an all-terrain monster truck. To this end I was thinking of locking the rear only. Is there some advantage to locking both diffs? BTW I actually do have a dedicated crawler project but I'm still waiting on some Clod axles to come up cheap (or cheap enough) for the carbon crawler project I started a few years back (Thanks again to TWINSET for that awesome bit of kit!). Until then that project is staying in its box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted October 4, 2018 49 minutes ago, VagabondStarJXF said: Next up: The axles appear to be locked on both front and rear. (Either that or they're both just really thickly greased?) ... ...Is there some advantage to locking both diffs? BITD, the normal method of locking diffs was to use JB Weld - a 'liquid steel' putty/2-part product which, after being kneaded together set pretty much rock hard. I've never tried to unlock a diff locked like that, but you should still be able to take the housing apart to see if that's what was used. Some people used a fourth diff gear wedged in place, but I'm not sure how tight that locked the diff. CC-01 Locking plates were the tidy option, but I doubt they've been used. The benefit of locking both diffs was no diff action - vital for rock crawling, not much good for turning circles Clods is good! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted October 4, 2018 I hope they're not JB Welded together. I intend to do a strip, degrease, and rebuild before I get started with the build so I'll find out for sure then. 3 hours ago, TWINSET said: Oh... It looks like I'm missing the round spacers. (like the two on the far right) It also seems quite difficult to find suitable replacements. I might have to get some bar stock and cut some down. I guess I'll worry about that when the time comes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted November 30, 2018 I've started formulating an idea for this chassis but I'm having trouble finding longer centre drive dogbones. I'd originally thought I needed 45mm dogbones (like the TA05/CC01) but, after remeasuring the original TLT dogbones, I'm actually in need of something 52mm long, measured pin to pin, give or take 1mm. Does anyone know which Tamiya model uses dogbones of this length? (If any do?) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted December 2, 2018 Stock dogbones should've come from TA04 afaik. (don't use TA05 as reference, that car came with numerous different sized parts depending on spec, none interchangeable) If you need slightly longer bones than TA04, look at a 1/10 nitro car of 200mm... HPI, Colt etc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted December 2, 2018 There's the TA05 45mm dogbones sold separately as Tamiya Hop Up Parts (which I almost bought). The TA04 and the first release of the TA05 (which used the TA04 arms) has 39mm dogbones and the TLT has 36mm. I originally thought the TLT came with M-Chassis 30mm dogbones. 36mm is an odd size amongst all my models so I wonder if any other models used them or if it's specific to the TLT. 8 hours ago, WillyChang said: If you need slightly longer bones than TA04, look at a 1/10 nitro car of 200mm... HPI, Colt etc Thanks. Someone on FB recommended the same thing so I've ordered a HPI set now. 52mm dogbones… Another odd length. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted December 4, 2018 Hey you be right! climbed up to high cupboard & unearthed the TLT... extracted dogbone (mucho expletives uttered)... yep it's 36mm. Cross ref'd manual... 9804178 or new code 19804178... Google suggests it's unique to TLT! wow yeah TA04/earlyTA05/TL01 is 39mm tripped over some CC01s whilst digging, measured that too -comes to 45mm, so TA03s would be same too Google dug up some F201 shafts that look reasonable long... haven't yet confirmed how long. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted December 4, 2018 Y'know what? I hadn't considered the F201 and, being that I'd upgraded my last one with universals, I should have some F201 dogbones laying about somewhere. I can't remember their exact length though, just like I can't remember where I left my F201 spares, but I think they were something like 48mm. It might be a bit late now that I've already ordered the HPI ones but I really should find those F201 dogbones and try them out. If they're 4mm shorter than what I was after then they probably won't work but it's always worth a try. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted March 21, 2019 I hate to necropost but I figured I shouldn't start a new thread for this... Bad news on the HPI dogbones. They're about 0.3mm too fat and simply won't fit inside the Tamiya cups. Does anyone have any idea about similar length Tamiya dogbones? BTW I've managed to source some appropriate spacers for the MIP kit... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OCD 514 Posted March 25, 2019 On 3/21/2019 at 12:46 PM, VagabondStarJXF said: I hate to necropost but I figured I shouldn't start a new thread for this... Bad news on the HPI dogbones. They're about 0.3mm too fat and simply won't fit inside the Tamiya cups. Does anyone have any idea about similar length Tamiya dogbones? I'm glad you posted this; You might be interested in these: I've actually forgotten the name of the manufacturer, but they were made specifically for the TLT1 standard wheelbase. As you can see in the photo the pin-to-pivot measurement is 34mm, but the yoke-side makes up the deficit. Mounts on the 5mm output shaft with a grubscrew. Oh, and they're entirely made of titanium ETA: Reading your posts from last year and just noticed you might be looking for something longer than the stock shafts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VagabondStarJXF 350 Posted March 25, 2019 6 hours ago, OCD said: ETA: Reading your posts from last year and just noticed you might be looking for something longer than the stock shafts? Yeah, I'm looking for 52-54mm long dogbones. The stock dogbones are 34mm so if you know if there's a variant of the universals you showed but with the extra 18-20mm... well... those would be ideal! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites