ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 25, 2018 I'm trying to calm down the steering on the Thunder Dragon, and Ackerman keeps coming up as something to check and adjust. Problem is there seems to be about 3 different ways to adjust it and I can't figure out what or how they work! I have some steering uprights from the DF03 on the buggy. These have two holes for the steering ball. Simple question (I hope!) - Can anyone tell which hole (the forward or rearward) will give me more stable steering? I've tested it but running on grass it's hard to get a really good feel. I'd just like to know which way I going with this. Thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_oliK 108 Posted October 25, 2018 I am not familiar with the thunder dragon steering assembly, but in cars where there are two steering wipers, that are connected the lenght of the connecting rod can be altered to change ackerman also. The further the front ends are spread, the more lock you will gain on the inside wheel. I guess that would make it more stable, But I have only ever dealt with Ackerman in the context of drifting, where all convential steering wisdom goes out of the window. I hope that helps. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 25, 2018 Thanks. That does help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juggular 4964 Posted October 25, 2018 Good question, ThunderDragon. Because you have asked, I learned a few things! Let me know how it works, if you say DF03 uprights work well, I might get some myself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 25, 2018 4 hours ago, Juggular said: Good question, ThunderDragon. Because you have asked, I learned a few things! Let me know how it works, if you say DF03 uprights work well, I might get some myself. I think I have a few things straight. Will try them out tomorrow hopefully. I only have DF03 uprights because I designed and 3d printed some 10 deg caster c hubs to calm the steering down and the kit uprights don't fit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathon Gillham 4606 Posted October 26, 2018 You could always upgrade to a Boomerang, the turning circle is so big you would never want to calm the steering down! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grotty Otty 868 Posted October 26, 2018 Would setting the steering up with the front toeing in (front of wheel pointing in towards chassis looking down from above) achieve the effect you need? The inner wheel wouldn't be turned so far round into the corner on the initial turn in, or I would suggest a stiffer spring set up to stop so much weight transfer to the front under braking. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Grotty Otty said: Would setting the steering up with the front toeing in (front of wheel pointing in towards chassis looking down from above) achieve the effect you need? The inner wheel wouldn't be turned so far round into the corner on the initial turn in, or I would suggest a stiffer spring set up to stop so much weight transfer to the front under braking. I have definitely moved in that direction and I have very stiff front springs. Just looking at other options. It's always been very on the nose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grotty Otty 868 Posted October 26, 2018 This is half the fun! My only other suggestion is to lower the grip at the front by using narrow wheels and tires and possibly ribbed or mini spikes. I'm not that familiar with that chassis, any way of getting the weight back a bit by shifting the battery pack back? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 26, 2018 2 hours ago, Grotty Otty said: This is half the fun! My only other suggestion is to lower the grip at the front by using narrow wheels and tires and possibly ribbed or mini spikes. I'm not that familiar with that chassis, any way of getting the weight back a bit by shifting the battery pack back? I have done ALL of that. Been wrestling with it for ages. I love it, but it was designed a long long time before high grip surfaces! It has Egress wheels for narrower fronts, 3 deg toe in rear uprights, camber links, all sorts. If I wasn't so pig headed about running vaguely age appropriate 2" wheels it think running 2.2 with cut staggers with minispike rears would be the ticket. As it is I'm runnning mini spike fronts and full spike rears on wet grass. Just took it out for a run at lunchtime and it was handling really nicely so I think I'm on the right track. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grotty Otty 868 Posted October 26, 2018 1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said: Just took it out for a run at lunchtime and it was handling really nicely so I think I'm on the right track. You realise just as you get it sorted and just so the surface will probably change... 😁 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 26, 2018 2 hours ago, Grotty Otty said: You realise just as you get it sorted and just so the surface will probably change... 😁 Obviously! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted October 27, 2018 So some trial and error, some application of learning got me this Forward holes on the uprights give more ackerman. Shortening the drag link between the steering wipers to angle them inwards really improves ackerman. Hopefully you can see the inside wheel angled more than the outside. This was the desired outcome! Definitely calmed the turn in and steering down which is really good on this buggy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
