TurnipJF

Turnip restores a Sand Scorcher for Grumpy pants

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Are the piston holes blocked?

Edit to add : Also what holds the front suspension arms on this model?

Would love to see an adjustable beam released for this, just for coolness. sway away adjusters, so you could drop the nose on a servo. :D

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19 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

And so we get to the really fun part - reassembly!

Front end back together, cleaned and freshly greased:

20181211_192424

 

Gearbox going back together with clean gears and casings, new bearings and fresh grease:

20181211_200853

 

Gearbox attached to new Radshape chassis plate, fitted with new spur gear cover and motor cover:

20181211_215759

 

With both ends attached to the chassis, it is starting to look like a car again:

20181211_215714

 

The front mounting hole in the left shock tower casting was either stripped or drilled out, so I put a nyloc nut on there to secure it. I added one to the other side too for visual symmetry.

The chassis plate appears to be good and sturdy, and apart from what appears to be a tooling mark across the front, is finished well too. 

Looks really good TJF 👍

The LHS shock tower is that looking from front to back or LHS from the drivers seat? 

Does my Perspex bumper look good or a bit out of place? There was something  retro and appealing to me about it. 

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12 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Sure, will do!

I thought you may have left it out in order to make the chassis more closely resemble that of a full-size beetle with its two horizontal tubes.

No literally a school boy fix to keep her running, it didn’t occur to me that it was more in keeping with the real dubs 😂

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On 12/12/2018 at 11:07 AM, TurnipJF said:

Right, so we have a few issues:

2018-12-12_10-46-03

The Super Champ servo saver fits the chassis, but appears to lack a means of attaching the Scorcher front body post. I am guessing that the Super Champ body post referred to by @Finman back on Page 1 was not included with the servo saver after all, as the pack didn't have any holes in it through which parts could have escaped.  

Three possible courses of action present themselves. You could source/send a Super Champ body post, source/send a replacement for the broken Sand Scorcher servo saver in order to return to stock spec, or I could just proceed as far as possible with the parts available and then send the car back to you for you to source and fit the required parts at your leisure.

We face a similar dilemma with the tierods. The upgraded ones are beautiful pieces of miniature engineering, but don't work with the small brass ball connectors used by the stock setup. Instead the balls are integral with the adjusters and they need to be attached with the car with small machine screws. I have looked through the screws you sent, as well as my own stash, and couldn't find any of the right size. 

Once again our options are source/send the required bits, revert to the stock arrangement, or I proceed as far as possible and return the car for you to complete at your leisure.

How would you like to proceed?

That’s my mistake, I completely missed the need for a SC body post as well.

If you don’t mind I’ll see if I can source the bits and then let you finish her up, if not then I’ll get the rere servo saver to you ASAP.

Same with the screws for the steering rods. 

Will you be able to relocate the steering servo to make the steering more direct?

I think there are two options, one with the servo on its side and just the 2 steering rods and the other with the servo upright using all 3 rods. 

I think you will need a fresh TC thread to get the answers on the shocks, up in the general discussions section. 

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26 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

💥 Option 1

 

Option 1 looks easy enough to achieve - it would just need a different servo saver. The Tamiya High Torque one looks to be suitable, and is easy to get hold of. Then we could utilise the standard Sand Scorcher front body post and not need to find a Super Champ one.

I also rather like the idea of doing away with the radio box and fitting a modern battery holder like the one in Biscuit's showroom link, with the servo and ESC stuck directly to the chassis. Would you want to go this route, or keep the radio box?

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39 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Looks really good TJF 👍

The LHS shock tower is that looking from front to back or LHS from the drivers seat? 

Does my Perspex bumper look good or a bit out of place? There was something  retro and appealing to me about it. 

Thanks! I am a bit disappointed that I couldn't get a better finish on the cast metal parts, but other than that I am quite pleased with progress.

The stripped/drilled shock tower is the left one as seen from the driver's seat. The one you sent along with the replacement servo saver parts. It matches the right one that was on the car when it arrived.

I think the Perspex bumper looks fine, certainly different to the norm, and a lot less bent than the alloy one that was on there when the car arrived here.

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3 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Are the piston holes blocked?

Edit to add : Also what holds the front suspension arms on this model?

Would love to see an adjustable beam released for this, just for coolness. sway away adjusters, so you could drop the nose on a servo. :D

The pistons don't have any holes - they are just solid brass. At one point I was wondering if the shocks are even meant to be oil filled, or if they are supposed to use grease like the roll dampers on some modern F1 models. 

The front suspension arms are held on with grub screws.

Remotely adjustable ride height would be fun, especially on a street Scorcher. :)

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26 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Option 1 looks easy enough to achieve - it would just need a different servo saver. The Tamiya High Torque one looks to be suitable, and is easy to get hold of. Then we could utilise the standard Sand Scorcher front body post and not need to find a Super Champ one.

I also rather like the idea of doing away with the radio box and fitting a modern battery holder like the one in Biscuit's showroom link, with the servo and ESC stuck directly to the chassis. Would you want to go this route, or keep the radio box?

I’ll have a ponder on this TJF.

Option 1 is really appealing using the HTSS Part 510000? 

But so is using all those SC parts I’ve bought and the vintage body post.

I would keep the radio  box as I like the sand and sea too much.

But Biscuits light weight racer is very nice.....decisions, decisions! 

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While discussions are ongoing regarding the steering arrangement, I thought it best to crack on with the rest of the chassis. 

20181213_152843

The shocks are filled emulsion-style as recommended by @Juls1 and are working well. 

The electronics will go back in once the steering arrangement is finalised so we know where everything needs to go. 

So for now at any rate, I reckon that things are about as far along as they can be. 

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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

While discussions are ongoing regarding the steering arrangement, I thought it best to crack on with the rest of the chassis. 

20181213_152843

The shocks are filled emulsion-style as recommended by @Juls1 and are working well. 

The electronics will go back in once the steering arrangement is finalised so we know where everything needs to go. 

So for now at any rate, I reckon that things are about as far along as they can be. 

WOW she looks great TJF!

Would you put the servo in the reciever box and fit the Tamiya 51000 Servo saver.

That gives me the retro look of the original SS with the most direct steering. 

In time it would be nice to think that a more stripped out version might grace my shelf for my beach holidays 👍

 

 

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So, let's make sure I am on the right track here:

Standard servo moved to the front of the radio box with an opening cut for the output to the high torque servo saver to directly drive the tierods? (Might need servo mounting tabs removed.)

Standard SS front body post fitted, SC servo saver not utilised?

Standard pushrod omitted, pushrod hole in radio box blanked off to avoid dirt ingress?

SC tierods bolted in place to top of uprights with bolts to be sourced?

Radio box hard mounted to chassis to avoid it wobbling with the servo movement?

Seems do-able. :)

 

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This I s getting exciting! 

My preferences using page 2 of Monouchi thread- comments 6, 7 & 8 are almost exactly what I would like please.

Battery box, lose the rubber bungs (TJF!) and the receiver box, then seal up the opening if possible as per Monouchi. 

If you feel it is better to keep the front box and mount the servo inside it for function or form I’m happy with that too. 

Loose the push rod from the box to the servo (blank off the opening), fit the servo minus the lugs and loose the SS servo saver.

Use the standard SS steering rods and body post with a new Tamiya Hi Torque servo saver.

Again if you feel the SC steering rods are a better way to go then I’m happy with this as well. 

Would you experiment with the servo facing down and the ball connectors on top of the steering  arms instead of underneath and see what combo will reduce the bump steer down to the lowest level please.

I’d really like the battery length ways (KTR) and the ESC and R/X being on either side as well.

Thank you Santa 👍

Of course you are welcome to do as much or as little as pleases you, I’m already delighted with everything you have done- thank you.

 

 

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Sounds good!

Using the stock SS steering tierods would allow the project to proceed without having to source the bolts required to attach the SC ones, however if the bolts can be sourced, the SC tierods are sturdier and nicer looking IMO. I am happy to go ahead with whichever you prefer. 

If the front section of the radio box is going to be omitted and the servo attached straight to the chassis, we don't need to eliminate the rubber bungs from the radio box as the servo no longer needs to rely on it for stability. I can still eliminate them if you wish.

We can also leave the servo lugs in place as we won't need to squeeze the servo into the front of the radio box. 

I'll see what I can find to neatly blank off the unused openings in the radio box. If I can do a professional looking job, I'll happily sort that out for you, but if not, perhaps it would be better to leave that part up to you. I'll keep you posted. 

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Awesome plan TJF.

Please use the standard SS steering rods, the fitting for the SC ones may take some time to source.

That makes sense, if the front section of the radio box is removed then please leave the bungs in place and the lugs can stay on the Servo.

If you aren’t happy with your blanking off of the radio box, can we please revert to retaining the receiver box and puttting the Servo inside it as we considered originally as option 1. Then please loose the bungs and the lugs!

If the box blanking is left to me it will never materialise unfortunately, I know what is ahead of me over the next few months...

I’ve ordered the Servo Saver this morning as well.

Thank you

Simon

 

 

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I have found some plasticard offcuts and craft foam pieces that might serve as blanking plates for the radio box. I'll do a bit of experimenting and see what I come up with. Anything I make will be either screwed to existing screw points or attached with double-sided tape, so it will be fully reversible if a better solution comes along.

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That’s awesome TJF.

I am delighted with everything you have done, if it had come back stock I would have totally happy.

But as it will come back with some really cool upgrades it will increase my pleasure in owning it.

The front strut looks great, I really like the quirky front bumper and the steering being upgraded is the icing on the cake. 

Keeping the radio box is more about it still being a SRB and keeping the retro feel more than the practicalities tbh. 

 

 

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I’ve requested 😊 from the chief engineer for the servo to be mounted flat at the very front so it is directly connected to the steering rods. 

For now using a new servo saver and a standard SS body post and steering rods. 

But Turnip has pretty much a free hand to choose as he see fit 👍.

Apart from keeping the battery box which I would like to keep. 

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