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Collin

Dyna Blaster going TRF211X

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:D I am in! Finally i signed in into the Dyna Blaster Owners Club. A very fine society, I was told... Well, it all began with my hunt for some TR-15T spares and so I got this lot, which I bought because of some CVDs. So I was wondering what to do with the half Dyna Blaster, cause a half is a half and thats simply not enough.

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Its a 1993 version, so its the original releas. The rear was built very careful, its all new and never had any use. I dont know what happened to that poor kit, that the rest is gone. So my job is to complete it, thats what I decided last night.
Here is a dry build with a crap bulkhead, damper stay and the other fiber part, which is a link between bulkhead and upper deck at the TR-15T. It all fits like charme, its all from the same blueprint. How much I love interchangeable parts. :lol:

 

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And now I want to pay attention to this area. At the Dyna Blaster the upper deck is part G3. I dont have it and my plan is to find a workaround made of carbon-fiber. The mounting clamps for the sway bar, at the DB it is part J7. Can anyone tell me why there is a mother and screw through it in horizontal way? I dont get it out of the manual...  Just found the answer myself, its connected to the damper stay. :rolleyes:


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And here is my two-phase-plan. :ph34r:

#1 Id like to ask you guys if anyone would do me a favour. Id need a propper scan of the front reinforced plate of the Dyna Storm. I bet it would fit! Also Id need the battery brace, please.


tb_06.jpg
 

I am pretty shure this will give the needed stability to the whole thing. But maybe not enough and that will lead me to:

#2 A propper lower and upper carbon fiber deck, thats what I am dreaming about when a study the chassis. I cannot do that on my TR-15T because of the heat of the nitro motor but here it will be!
I can get rid of the rear upper plastic cover G1 and badword yea, lets do a fiber rear damper stay and whatever goes. Winter is coming and I have no projects. :D

 

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"... this is the end, my only friend, the end...."  Ah no, that the rear. Well, D parts have to be replaced with ORB racing ones which are so great and durable. I have a spare gearbox for my TR-15T allready assembled just to bolt it in. But for the DB I have to have a closer look at the main shaft, seems like there is somehing different. They turned the gearbox just around, maybe some other minor details I havent seen jet but winter is long.

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Okay, so I am glad to entertain you with some new photos and some new modifications I am planning to do. Your idears are pretty much welcome! I still do not know much about Tamya (yet).

 

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You absolutely must have the top brace or you will break the chassis in seconds.
Dyna Storm brace fits but it is longer.

max

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Thats obvious... :)

Got already a scan of the DS brace, lets see how I redesigne it.

 

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Right befor I did worked a bit around the rear of the DB. Transmission box is fiber-grey and hubs as well. Now I have to think about the damper mounts. I dont like the solution how they fit the damper to the rear arms. This little plastic bit, i dont know... Id prefere a ballstud into the arm. Maybe with some longer dampers this can work but its a minor thing and I can live with how it is. But what makes me bit confuse is the whole damper stay.

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The TR-15T one is heavy because of the fiber plastic. Id´like to build a superlight Dyna Blaster. Now I have to find a good solution. Possibly the DB plastic lower part with a custom carbon fiber upper part. But then I have to find a solution for the body mounting point. Hummm... :unsure: have to think about... Have to check Dyna Storm drawings also. 

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Anyway, I started to write a shopping list, some ball bearings, some hex screws (I like them on RCs!), lot of 2mm carbon fiber and hopefully Tamiya will produce another lot of Hi-Cap dampers. Also a lot of stuff from ORB racing. It cost a fortune but I wnat a solid rock Dyna Blaster made for the track. 

Ah, About D1/D2 parts, the rear arm mounts which crack like chips. There is a guy at ebay who had produced them out of alloy. I sent him a message yesterday and he is going to make some new. Maybe, if some of you would also get on, send him a message and he might do that a bit faster. Here is the contact: https://www.ebay.at/usr/pmg828?ul_noapp=true

 

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HI guys, anyone can tell me the thickness of a Tamiya fiber chassis like Dyna Storm or Top Force ect..?  Is it about 2,3mm?

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5 hours ago, Collin said:

HI guys, anyone can tell me the thickness of a Tamiya fiber chassis like Dyna Storm or Top Force ect..?  Is it about 2,3mm?

Top force lower deck is 2.5mm

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Great, I thought 2mm will be anough but is not! Can you give me the thickness of the upper brace also? Rear damper-mout at TR-15T is also 2.5mm (guess DS is same) but front one is 2.0mm

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Mixed layers, TR-15T alloy chassis, Dyna Blaster rear and main chassis. Its all in alignment! Just too easy. :D

tb_10.jpg

 

And found some inspiration in the history of Tamiyas TRF211X and 4xx series. Thanks to the guy runnig this website, its very informativ and I often found my research leading there: http://www.blackholesun.fr/en/40-en/tamiya/kits/290-tamiya-trf

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13 hours ago, Collin said:

Great, I thought 2mm will be anough but is not! Can you give me the thickness of the upper brace also? Rear damper-mout at TR-15T is also 2.5mm (guess DS is same) but front one is 2.0mm

Upper deck is 2.0mm. There is an astute build thread on here somewhere which advocated a 3.0mm carbon lower deck (he got fibre lyte to make one I seem to recall) to get the stiffness to more modern levels. 

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Couldnt find the topic, but the thickness is the essencial thing I needet to know. Cheers man!

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A bit of a grid.

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Looking a bit like this. Upper deck is a one piece brace. lower deck more or less like DB cassis, only a bit more material around the rear columns.

Another bit what makes me cry is the motor protection, its a joke! It even breaks from looking at. :D
Again I got inspiration from the TRF 211X and I´ll redo the metal one. Even if it bends, it will not break. I also thought about using one from RPM but then I have to use their mounting points, which makes me not happy. Anyway, its going on fast forward. I also did a cost calculation, man, you dont want to know! Lets say, its a my christmas present. :blink::lol:

@Ann3x Please move your house quick, I need some help from you. You did the battery brace for hardcase LiPo.

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Can you give me precise details for the mounting points, lenght, high, wide...? I am considering using this solution but will not order now because I am not sure about size and position... I am using the same Turnigy ones like on the pic. Definitly I´ll get the dustcap for the clutch as well. God save 3D printer and the engineers behind! B)

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Additional. If you are making decks anyway have you considered converting it to TRF201 rear suspension? Go to the front and rear blocks with shafts between them. DN01 and DB01 rear arms and XV01 uprights are still cheap and plentiful and would allow modern hexes and drive shafts. Maybe this is missing the point, but it's how my mind works! 

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Great that you like this thread! I am giving gas LOL... Modernizing on a certain point, yess. Building a complete new hybrid? I think no. I am really into this Dyna family and I´d like to keep things more or less as they are. As I menioned above, interchangeable parts is a good point sor me. I have a lot of TR-15T stuff, I can buy 3D printet parts and use them  here and there. I fact I had wild fantasies last night (omg, now I passed anoter red line in my life :blink: :lol: ) about what is possible and from some point of view it is totally stupid to rebuild the Dyna Blaster where some parts are so hard to get. Anyway, I remebered the TRF211x and the story behind (parallels to Astute, ect...) and how things developed. They made the Buggy, I want a Truggy on the 90s standard, with 90s parts and a "mild" brushless system, still beeing what the idear behind was. Hoestly, I can see me in a while building a real Frankensteiner and then I´ll take parts which are durable, easy to get, ect...as you mentioned. But for now its all about the idear of the Dynas.

 

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... and here I am with the issues about keeping things like they was and the idear of donig things the "new "way around. Above I mentioned that I did not like the little plastic spacer at the rear arms for the lower damper mount.

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Shure I can remove the plastic spaer but then the whole damper position does not fit with the angle. This here is a drawing of the rear damper stay. The one with the offset for the position without the lower plastic spacer. Not shure, I have the feeling Ill leave it like it meant to be original. Now thats it for today, I am going to read a bit basic lecture about setting RC cars, chapter damper position first. ;)

tb_14.jpg

 

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23 hours ago, Collin said:

Can you give me precise details for the mounting points, lenght, high, wide...? I am considering using this solution but will not order now because I am not sure about size and position... I am using the same Turnigy ones like on the pic. Definitly I´ll get the dustcap for the clutch as well. God save 3D printer and the engineers behind! B)

You mean:

  • Height from the chassis to lipo holder top plane?
  • Width between mounting holes?
  • Length of lipo it fits?

Sorry just there are a lot of possible options for the dimensions.

I can check stuff while I move, just not a lot of building going to happen ;).

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:( I know, I want precise informations and my question was far away from hitting the spot. :lol: I am just glad you have some time to help me with it. I will send you a PM next days.

Meanwhile, i read about droop.I have to admit, I dont have race experience and probably would not feel so much difference moving a damper from one position to the other, but this does not mean, that I dont care about functionality. Funny thing, without lower plastic spacer the alignement from the damper is perfect 90° vertical. I did this design of the rear damper stay and Ill give it a try.

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With the outer triangle I can go direct to the suspension arm mount without the spacer,the inner three vertical are like original. Probably its a cool feature to prepair the Dyna Blaster for flat track as well... mhmmm ;)

Still the probem wit the rear bodyshell mount.  Lunch Box does have exactly what I need! Thats all or tonigt, Over and out.

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Ok,things become clearer. This is a little checklist for possible further steps.

  • lasercutting front kick-up and rear motorguard in AlMg3 5754

  • 3D scatch for front kickup and printing @ shapeways

  • order parts from VRC and ORB @ shapewasy

  • order 3mm and 2mm carbon fiber sheet

  • finding (or producing) Lexan clutch cover

  • bodyshell

Kickup was a big question, I designed the front end of the subplate to fit three types of kick-up.

#1 TR-15T kick-up with bumper, might look cool on a Truck.
#2 ORB made Dyna Storm kick-up
#3 repro of aloy/plastic TRF211x kick-up

Battery-mount, the TRX211x used the one for the Super Astute. @Ann3x made a wonderfull repro available at shapeways. I had a conversation with Tamico, Super Astute re-re spares should come by 1.quater 2019. I have a 5mm carbon sheet and another way would be a partial frame for the hardcase LiPo and a strap. Not shure yet...

Any pros and cons I dont see? Whats your opinion guys!

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Bodyshell, check!

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Unfortunly there was some content under the bodyshell, couldnt resist, the price was too good! Complete Dyna Blaster ready to run but new built! 1998 version. Insane! B)

 

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Thanks for measurments. I redesigned the upper deck, sadly it lost its beautifull shape but form follows function. I´d put a foam block between LIPo and rear end, as it is with the Losi XXX. But for now I have to got to sleep, so much work today. -_-

 

tb_21.jpg

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Now its all a question about design or weight... This here is a battery strap on system made of 5mm carbon. Wouldnt weight that much then the 3D printet parts, I guess...

 

tb_22.jpg

 

But the designt... it would be such a perfect coloursceme. :huh: Not shure at all.

tb_23.jpg

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Well, not bad for the beginning. Some minor changes on the upper deck and its all fine.

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I have to move back with the battery strap to get more space to the front for the receiver. It will lay flat between lower and upper deck beside the battery. The one screw on the upper deck left hand side will be the screwed metal antenna mount. Also I have to widen the slots in the rear upper deck area to install the esc more centered.

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Totally forgot about the drills for the steering/swaybar mount. :rolleyes:

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My idear to have a adjustable battery mount. It will be made of a 5mm fiber sheet for the front and rear brace and 3mm for the strap. Its only adjustabel from rear to front. Hope the hardcase Lipos are more or less all the same dimension.

tb_32.jpg

The rear damper mount with optional upper positiones. At the left arm (from this view) is no spacer bit at the bottom, at the right side it is as Tamiya planned it. The TR-15T front bumper/kickup does not fit under the shell but I have already decidet to reproduce the TRF211x alloy/plastic version.

Guys, feedback is welcome. Once its got the fiber plates, there is no way back!

 

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Great looking build, I’m too new to RC to add much specifically to that, but if stiffness front to back is important that top deck is contributing very little, If this is to be moulded from carbon (rather than sheet cut) adding a small return lip, either internally or externally, top or bottom doesn’t matter, would have a cubed increase to stiffness. I see it currently like an I beam where the vertical section is trimmed out barring a few small posts, it’s free to buckle. 

I’ve built a grand total of 1 car so far (well, almost finished) :) and that’s more for nostalgia, I don’t have any intention of doing anything competitive but would love to do some custom chassis design. Once I have another few under my belt I’ll see what can be done with a 3D space frame. Perhaps we can compare notes when this day comes? You’ve got all the 2d parts drawn and the fixings positioned, I’d just need the various heights and sizes of the electronics and can knock out a 3D space frame, even do some structural analysis and mass optimisation. Then I’m thinking DMLS.

Anyway.. keep up the good work, I’ll follow this with interest!

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