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Collin

Dyna Blaster going TRF211X

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@Lee76 3D construction is a bit away, I do get 2D fairly good enough now and have to go further anyway. I am totaly interestet in yor idears, post your results as soon you started. A one-piece grid-frame with organic structure would be a kiler! About stiffness, well, you are right. I hope it will just be better then the original Dyna Blaster chassis and this winds in all directions. :lol:

What do you think about this curved upper deck wich came from nimrod parts?

dyna_lightning_top_deck_01.jpg

Any way, I´ll give it a try and see how stiff it will be, I definitly do not know how it will be yeat but I hope for a good result. I am a bit of technician but no scientist. :D


I am done for today with some minor changes you wouldt see on the pics but I have some problems with the receiver position.  So here are two possibilities which I can see:

tb_33.jpg

1) Putting the RX to the back, I´ll add some material at the upper deck, so its protected. But I have a little bit to go with the antenna cable, until its at the antenna mount (which is one floor upstairs at the upper deck, but this position.)

tb_34.jpg

2) Lovely position, but no more space for the battery strap. 

-_-

The other battery mount which is from the Super Astute, is very broad and for shure heavier than my solution. Smaller straps? Rubber bands? Fiber plate brace screwed down from the top? I have to sleep over it. If you have any suggestions, you are welcome.

So far, I am happy! Didnt wanted to go that far with my Dyna bits but this accidently endet in a project which makes me very happe. The laser cutter Guy invitet me to come arount to his place, he is doing some indoor RC minicar roundcourse in his office and I am welcomed when he meets up with freinds and some beer.  Well, the cutting action took 2:30min but you know what!? I already spendet some nights with drawing and trying around, drybuilds, sources for parts, ect... , many hours.;)

 

 

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8 hours ago, Collin said:

@Lee76 3D construction is a bit away, I do get 2D fairly good enough now and have to go further anyway. I am totaly interestet in yor idears, post your results as soon you started. A one-piece grid-frame with organic structure would be a kiler! About stiffness, well, you are right. I hope it will just be better then the original Dyna Blaster chassis and this winds in all directions. :lol:

What do you think about this curved upper deck wich came from nimrod parts?

dyna_lightning_top_deck_01.jpg

Any way, I´ll give it a try and see how stiff it will be, I definitly do not know how it will be yeat but I hope for a good result. I am a bit of technician but no scientist. :D


I am done for today with some minor changes you wouldt see on the pics but I have some problems with the receiver position.  So here are two possibilities which I can see:

tb_33.jpg

1) Putting the RX to the back, I´ll add some material at the upper deck, so its protected. But I have a little bit to go with the antenna cable, until its at the antenna mount (which is one floor upstairs at the upper deck, but this position.)

tb_34.jpg

2) Lovely position, but no more space for the battery strap. 

-_-

The other battery mount which is from the Super Astute, is very broad and for shure heavier than my solution. Smaller straps? Rubber bands? Fiber plate brace screwed down from the top? I have to sleep over it. If you have any suggestions, you are welcome.

So far, I am happy! Didnt wanted to go that far with my Dyna bits but this accidently endet in a project which makes me very happe. The laser cutter Guy invitet me to come arount to his place, he is doing some indoor RC minicar roundcourse in his office and I am welcomed when he meets up with freinds and some beer.  Well, the cutting action took 2:30min but you know what!? I already spendet some nights with drawing and trying around, drybuilds, sources for parts, ect... , many hours.;)

 

 

If the battery is held between the decks at the back and in a tray stop at the front it feels to me like the middle strap mount is overkill. If you put a rubber strap or velcro loop like you into the front battery retainer you could get ride of the middle strap section and also have room for you receiver. What do you think? 

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Haha, its a bid of my problem, I like things bullet proofe and solid as a rock. :D I have a new plan, will post it in a little while, thanks man!

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tb_35.jpg

The front battery clamp shares the drilling holes with the upper clamp, two simple shafts/columns, thread-shaft at the top and thumb nuts. The top clamp slips between battery and upper deck with just a little play. I dont want the battery rattle around. This will give enough space for the receiver unit. 

Any idear for a name for this Dyna Blaster? :)

Edit: I am just wodering if I even need the rear brace... a foam cube should do it and I have two drills less in the lower chassis. There is not much space for the rear brace also, so it would be more flexible with a foam spacer insted. Any suggestions?!

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That curved upper deck looks the part, but not having seen it in assembly I can’t comment on its function, might have to do some googling.

My next purchase plan was to be either a sandscorcher and do some scale detailing, or possibly a monster beetle and re-make the chassis part. I’d also like something like the hi-lux just because I love the scale details.

If you need anything modelling up in 3D and have the drawings/sketches to work from, just drop me a line, I can do some lunchtime moonlighting. Can also do some simulation if you want to compare structure options. Your thread is starting to form an idea where I reproduce a model but all in wood, just so it looks good on the shelf :) 

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Great that things here inspires you! Indeed I´ll do one part in a 3D scatch, the front part of the kickup is made of plastic and I am going to "shapeway" it. But first I´ll try on my own, its really a simple thing and I have to start learning 3D modeling. I did some cinema 4D but thats more or less freestyle sculpting.

Back to the DB211x, i think I am done with all 2D carbon parts. Battery clamp got a new design, labeled with the project titel.

tb_36.jpg

Now I just wait for some details about the kickup and motor guard. :) Thickness is relevant, I guess its 2mm. Also the measureings of motor guard. Kickup is pretty much given by the bulkhead and chassis plate.

Well, what next? In december I am going to order all materials (carbon plates, alloy), 3D printed parts, ball bearings and some bits from Tamico. Lets say, instead I could buy the new Super Astute re-re... :blink::lol:

 

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I really appreciate how people can be so creative with DIY. Nice project build.

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On 11/20/2018 at 9:59 PM, Collin said:

Great that things here inspires you! Indeed I´ll do one part in a 3D scatch, the front part of the kickup is made of plastic and I am going to "shapeway" it. But first I´ll try on my own, its really a simple thing and I have to start learning 3D modeling. I did some cinema 4D but thats more or less freestyle sculpting.

Back to the DB211x, i think I am done with all 2D carbon parts. Battery clamp got a new design, labeled with the project titel.

tb_36.jpg

Now I just wait for some details about the kickup and motor guard. :) Thickness is relevant, I guess its 2mm. Also the measureings of motor guard. Kickup is pretty much given by the bulkhead and chassis plate.

Well, what next? In december I am going to order all materials (carbon plates, alloy), 3D printed parts, ball bearings and some bits from Tamico. Lets say, instead I could buy the new Super Astute re-re... :blink::lol:

 

That top deck as an outer ring like that isn't goibg to offer much in the way of torsional stiffness. The astute platform visit the stiffest to start with and with this being a truck as well, I would be tempted to go 3mm for bottom deck and 2mm for all other carbon parts. Pretty sure the original lower deck was 2.5 anyway. 

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6 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

That top deck as an outer ring like that isn't goibg to offer much in the way of torsional stiffness. The astute platform visit the stiffest to start with and with this being a truck as well, I would be tempted to go 3mm for bottom deck and 2mm for all other carbon parts. Pretty sure the original lower deck was 2.5 anyway. 

I agree, a ring is definitly not the perfect shape to prevent winding front and rear axial direction. 3mm lower deck is essential, also front and rear damper mount. Upper deck is 2mm. I did a fast draft for a reinforcement addon to the lower deck, probably also 2mm. I would anyway need a 2mm spacer for both steering mounts/shafts, because kick-up is mounted from the bottom side.

tb_37.jpg

hmmm... maybe I add some struds inbetween this brace...

 

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Mhmmm okay... had some honeybread and coffee this morning which inspired me a lot.

tb_38.jpg

Honeycombs. :D Sweeet honeycomps... I´ll cut them out of 2mm fiber as an addon to the 3mm sheet. Possibly generates some more stiffness. Both glued together with honey2k epoxy should do it. But firs I'll give it a try with only 3mm chassis lower deck.

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  • lasercutting front kick-up and rear motorguard in Alloy 7075 - ON REQUEST
  • 3D scatch for front kickup and printing @ shapeways - ON HOLD
  • order parts from VRC and ORB @ shapeways ORDERED
  • order 3mm and 2mm carbon fiber sheet NEW SOLUTION
  • finding (or producing) Lexan clutch cover VRC part instead
  • bodyshell  Got a whole DB :lol:
  • Tamico var. small parts ORDERED
  • Hop-Ups ORDERED
  • ball bearings ORDERED

 

Hi guys. Its Decmber, got my November pay and a good part of my gamble money is already gone. :D

I found a great soultion for the carbon decks. Instead of buying the 2 and 3mm plates, I found a factory who is doing the whole CNC milling including material cost for a very reasonable price. Thanks to the 1000-Headed-Dragon. ;)

Well, so far its all done but some little issues with the body mount, I´ll open a request tread in the general topic now. Oh no, its Mr. @Pintopower who made this part, how cool is this. I am loving TC man! :D

The alloy parts, I have to order the 5754 alloy from Gemany, its not possible to get some here in my city of Vienna, thats so strange. But germans are good in metal anyway. :) For the front plastic part of the kickup, I think I´ll just get a RPM one and cut it down to the half. It looks so much like the one for the TRF211x that it is quiet okay.

One of the last problem, and we all have the same, where do I get some Hi-Caps from? I hoped so much they will come back for the Super Astute but not. Official Hop-Up is simply the DF03 damper set. Okay, I have to eat it (unless someone is selling me a set for a fair price!).

So long, sitting and waiting for a handfull of postmen ringing... :)

 

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On 11/11/2018 at 12:02 AM, Collin said:

Another bit what makes me cry is the motor protection, its a joke! It even breaks from looking at. :D

No, it's very strong.

Max

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Humm, E5 is a joke, it easily cracks along the thread holes and E1 as well.

See what I mean?

img24_16072007015636_6_1100_.jpg

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11 hours ago, Collin said:

Humm, E5 is a joke, it easily cracks along the thread holes and E1 as well.

See what I mean?

img24_16072007015636_6_1100_.jpg

I perfectly know this model in the pictures because it's mine.
What you don't know is that my model has been for years in a shop window under the sun and the plastic became brittle.
Infact the repair has made before the use.
Anway, being so brittle, the rear motor mount took a lot of abuses on the track and never broke more than that lines you see in the picture.
I also own a Dyna Storm that uses the same part. Also the Dyna Storm has been abused on the track with big jumps and the rear motor mount never broke.
This could not be trusty but it's my experience.


Max

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Good morning Max,
I know that this is your DB :lol:. I read everyting I found about the model bevor I started this project. Good to know, what the reason was that yours became so brittle. UV isnt the big hit for plastic.
My point of view came from the half DB I got (see first posting) and the pink one and this pic from your showroom. Both of mine never run and have hairlines on E1, which is the lower mount for the motor guard. Anyway, to walkt in the foodsteps of the TRF211x it needs to be made of alloy and a hex bar.

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"Step by step,... uhhh baby!" :)
Some custom size columns. Guess which are the original ones... ;)

tb_41.jpg

 

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Just asking myself abou the coming tyres. I will use some of my old original rims which are paintet now. For the tyres I´d like to go for Prolines. Seems like they are really top notch. Terrain should be an allrounder (no tarmac) for offroad tracks, sandpits and short lawn.

This is my idear of the rear ones: https://www.rc-race-shop.de/proline/8170-01-proline-gladiator-2-22-truck-reifen-m2-p-52291.html?c=763

About the front tyre, do they need to have ribs because of 2WD? https://www.maxpowerrccars.com.au/proline-the-edge-2-2-m3-soft-off-road-truck-front-tires.html

 

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Another Postman rang. :)
The manshaft will be used for a slipper-clutch/spurgear conversion.

tb_42.jpg

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Update about the project:

  • lasercutting front kick-up and rear motorguard in Alloy 7075  ORDERED
  • 3D scatch for front kickup and printing @ shapeways - ON HOLD
  • order parts from VRC and ORB @ shapeways ORDERED
  • order 3mm and 2mm carbon fiber sheet ORDERED
  • finding (or producing) Lexan clutch cover VRC part instead ORDERED
  • bodyshell  Got a whole DB :lol:
  • Tamico var. small parts ORDERED
  • Hop-Ups ORDERED
  • ball bearings ORDERED
  • tires ORDERED

Just sent the vector files to be milled in carbon fiber. Might tage till january but therefor the price was pretty good. Got some advice about flex of the chassis and so another pair of colums was added between upper 2mm and lower 3mm deck.

In the next days I´ll receive last parts from ORB (thanks a lot for feedback on this project!!!), Schumacher tires, some Losi spare parts for using LOSI XXXT alloy dampers. Kimbrough servo saver, only the good stuff!

Until receiving the carbon parts I have some time to get into 3d CAD for doing the front kickup part. I really know how to do things but I  am so much out of ths CAD thing, its crazy... :blink:

Also I am working on the mainshaft conversion for optional LOSI slipper clutch instead of Multi-Disc-Clutch (MDC) system. Its less rotating weight and I can use all module 0.4 gears I already have.

Well,... so long, stay tuned!

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Jep,... looking forward for the build! after receiving the cutted carbon parts I have everything together. All parts waiting in a little box for e joyfull construction evening. :)

Meanwhile I did the modeling of the kick-up. My very first try, took me a while for this little bit. :lol: Ready for Shapeways.

tb_43.jpg

 

 

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Tires arrived, this is going to be a bad boys toy (with a touch of pink of course). :lol:

 

tb_44.jpg

tb_45.jpg

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I was mental about it and had to get it, this pink, I can't believe how good this works. Btw, I like bright colors for spotting the RC car in distance. :)

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