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Posted

I'm starting to work on the hard plastic body for my CC01 project. I want to fill in the back of the cab since I won't be using the bed that's supposed to go with it. From my understanding, styrene is the way to go, right? I don't think I have ever seen styrene up close, so I am not sure what I am looking for. I know what Styrofoam is, so I imagine is shares similar properties. I've looked at pictures online, watched videos, and am still unsure. I went to the LHS and got the only thing they offered called styrene. It's a bit on the thick side compared to some of the Youtube videos I watched. I'm attempting to use it, but at this point, could just call what I have made a template. 

Here is it on top of some bearings to show thickness.

 

32027796868_2d6732d660_b.jpg

 

Here's the filler piece I made. It's currently held in with friction. If I use the material I have, I am going to remake this piece to fill in the gaps where the window meets.

 

45174904944_cd3a2484d9_b.jpg

 

32027796368_40a1a01c8b_b.jpg

 

45174904194_3edf49253b_b.jpg

 

I'm going to have to glue the back window in place. I think that the bed that goes to this body is what should normally hold it in place, which is why the tape is on top.

 

 I'm going to make the body mounts in a way that a rollover won't put stress on the styrene panel, but a side impact may be unavoidable. Considering that, do I go forward with the material I have, or should I get the correct styrene that everyone else uses? I remember reading that Shoe Goo is good to bond the styrene to plastic. What about filling the gaps? I have automotive bondo, and I have Tamiya putty. Which is preferred, or is there something else?

 

 Any help on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

What you have looks like a foam board.  Styrene is plastic, not like styrofoam.  It's certainly softer than most plastic, but it doesn't have foam inside. 

Unlike hard plastic, you can wrap 0.5mm styrene board around a can of beer with ease.  If you did the same with 2mm styrene board, it won't bend as easily.  So, for your purpose, I'd look for something like 1.5mm or 2mm styrene board.  2mm can still be cut with a pair of scissors, I think.  Scissor big, and cut into shape with a hobby knife.  Since styrene is soft, it's easy to cut away.  

Shoe glue would be messy.  Between styrene and/or ABS, Plastruct Plastic Weld works wonders.  But I don't know about the Bruiser body.  If your Bruiser body is regular ABS, plastic glue would be perfect.  If it is non-ABS resin like the heat-resistant stuff used in handles of pots and pans in the 70's, plastic glue won't work.  Then you'd have to go with superglue, hot glue or shoe glue.  

Putty depends on how strong the styrene is.  If it can be glued on rock hard, any putty would do.  I have a feeling that Vallejo plastic putty (it's white too) might work better if it's going to be a bit flexible.  When dried, it can be sanded, but it doesn't feel as brittle as the gray Tamiya putty.  But I'm not 100% sure.  

[3.2mm below would be a good thickness for your purpose, but it's a bit harder to work with]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastruct-0-125-3-2mm-White-Styrene-Plastic-Sheets-2-Pcs-SSS-108-91108/123394873392?hash=item1cbae85830:g:TJ4AAOSwuSFbrksd:sc:USPSFirstClass!19027!US!-1:rk:42:pf:0

Posted

You might want to consider using PVC board. They come in different thickness. 1.5/2/3/4mm. I suggest using 2mm will be jusr right. Easy to cut especially if youu have tools like dremel.

Posted

Plasticard is the way to go . I use it a lot and I bond it with liquid poly , the more you brush on it actually melts the plastic together in a controlled way , and it dries quickly . The pic above shows an easy and good looking solution to your build .

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