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I am running a Super clod with a 860 dual brushed esc but wish to upgrade to a lipo. Any tips on what I will need? I am currently using tamiya connectors .  I am particularly worried about the connectors and do not have a battery or lipo charger.

Thanks,

Ashicar:)

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I was also quite worried about connectors when upgrading to LiPo and did a fair bit of reading on the subject, eventually shortlisting Deans and XT60s, finally deciding on Deans. Both are good options though.

Deans are very widely used, and many LiPo batteries and chargers either come with them as standard or have them as an option so you don't need to worry about soldering them. On the other hand, if you do need to solder on your own connectors, XT60s are easier to solder.

Deans are more difficult to plug in and unplug, but once plugged in they stay together more firmly than XT60s. However XT60s are easier to grip, and thus make for easier battery swaps. 

The thing that decided it for me in the end was the physical size difference. XT60s are a little bulkier than Deans, and I race F1s where space is at a premium, so I went for the more compact connector option. In a Clod though, this wouldn't be a factor.

In terms of current carrying ability both are well up to the task, so I'd say pick the one that you find most convenient. 

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I converted everything to deans over 12 years ago.  Cheap and readily available.  However, as @TurnipJF says, they can be fiddly to plug in and out.  If I was starting again from scratch I'd go with XT60 or Traxxas connectors for that reason alone.

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As for the battery, my primary concern was versatility as I wanted it to fit all my cars, even the vintage ones, without modification. I therefore went for the Core RC rounded stick packs from Modelsport as they are the same size and shape as the NiCad and NiMH packs around which the older chassis were designed. 

Link here:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538

 

 

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Versatility was also a factor in choosing my charger. I wanted one that could charge all my batteries, LiPo and NiMH, drive packs and transmitter/receiver packs, off mains or 12V power sources.

A name that came up often in my searches was the IMAX B6, however many of those searches lead to threads discussing the large number of fake B6 chargers out there and the dangers of using them, so I decided to play it safe and buy this Overlander one from Modelsport:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsr-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-lipo-balance-charger/rc-car-products/408440

It has served me very well, proving completely reliable in almost 4 years of use so far.

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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

Versatility was also a factor in choosing my charger. I wanted one that could charge all my batteries, LiPo and NiMH, drive packs and transmitter/receiver packs, off mains or 12V power sources.

A name that came up often in my searches was the IMAX B6, however many of those searches lead to threads discussing the large number of fake B6 chargers out there and the dangers of using them, so I decided to play it safe and buy this Overlander one from Modelsport:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsr-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-lipo-balance-charger/rc-car-products/408440

It has served me very well, proving completely reliable in almost 4 years of use so far.

Apart from the wattage is there any difference between this charger and yours?

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425241

Just looking to save some money:D

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Just to throw a spanner in the works, a 3s lipo is perfect for these cars, once I run 3s in the bullhead, it's not run anything else! 

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7 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

Just to throw a spanner in the works, a 3s lipo is perfect for these cars, once I run 3s in the bullhead, it's not run anything else! 

Whats better than 3s?,. … 4s lol :)  14.8volts for mega power. 7.4 volts for extra long runtime, 

 One 2s per motor, so you have 2 batteries at 7.2volts. (7,4v lipo) or link them up to get 14.4Volts.

Isn't that how clods used to work?, with the power/ economy switch?

Edit2Add: The 860 runs 4s but the silver cans don't last long on 14Volts. :huh:

 

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3 minutes ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Edit2Add: The 860 runs 4s but the silver cans don't last long on 14Volts:huh:

That's the only reason I've not! 😂😂

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4 minutes ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Isn't that how clods used to work?, with the power/ economy switch?

Back in the msc days!

Parallel for power, serise for economy.

Modern esc's don't have that option, just multi lipo option  🙄😂

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17 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

That's the only reason I've not! 😂😂

I am running two sport tuned etroniks 27 turn modifiable motors. Which lipo should I go for? 2,3 or 4s?

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I'd go for 3s, the bullhead etc are very low geared, so the motors are less stressed.

A 3s in a boomerang burnt the motor out after a couple of packs (back to back though), but the bullhead has had a load of packs through, and been faultless.

Mine on 3s with silver cans (couple in the snow on there too)

 

 

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3 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

I'd go for 3s, the bullhead etc are very low geared, so the motors are less stressed.

A 3s in a boomerang burnt the motor out after a couple of packs (back to back though), but the bullhead has had a load of packs through, and been faultless.

Mine on 3s with silver cans (couple in the snow on there too)

Which lipo do you use?

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2 hours ago, Ashicar said:

Apart from the wattage is there any difference between this charger and yours?

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425241

Just looking to save some money:D

Smaller dimensions, runs off mains only, charges smaller range of pack sizes, etc. Compare the specs side by side and you'll see a fair few differences. That said, if the smaller one suits your needs, no reason to get the bigger one. 

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6 minutes ago, Ashicar said:

Which lipo do you use?

For that run, I think it was an ,Orion rocketsport hardcase, but don't think are available now.

I believe these are a similar size 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=396373

Although if you wanted to go for a softcase, there's loads to choose from, and half the price ( but likely to be damaged) I'm using softcase atm.

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Whatever you choose, don't cut both wires of the battery at the same time!  

The wire cutter can melt in your hands.  Cut only one wire, solder that one to the new plug.  Then cut the other, and solder that to the new plug.  One wire at a time is safer.  

I use iMAX B6.  I returned one to Amazon when I suspected that it wasn't genuine.  Current one checked out on their website:  https://www.skyrc.com/antifake/public/ 

It will check it only once.  So, take a screenshot or print it out for posterity.   

And I chose XT60 because it's easier to use.  It's not like I have massive fingers or anything, but Deans were too small for me.  Other members introduced Deans T style connectors with a finger-friendly design.  Still quite small, but if you want Deans style, this might be a way to go.  

https://www.3dxr.co.uk/product/amasstplug-pair-connectors/

 

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@Wooders28 You're a brave man doing that on asphalt! I did exactly the same thing with my Clod to test speed once and was so worried it would bite and smash!

I also completely agree, I run 3S in my Clod with stock silver cans and it FLIES - well flies for a Clod. I really feel it's the perfect combination.

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/88205-clodbuster-upgrades/&do=findComment&comment=731371

 

 

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4 hours ago, JNSD1 said:

You're a brave man doing that on asphalt! 

Just need to remember not to slam on the brakes! 🤦‍♂️

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6 hours ago, Juggular said:

Whatever you choose, don't cut both wires of the battery at the same time!  

The wire cutter can melt in your hands.  Cut only one wire, solder that one to the new plug.  Then cut the other, and solder that to the new plug.  One wire at a time is safer.  

I use iMAX B6.  I returned one to Amazon when I suspected that it wasn't genuine.  Current one checked out on their website:  https://www.skyrc.com/antifake/public/ 

It will check it only once.  So, take a screenshot or print it out for posterity.   

And I chose XT60 because it's easier to use.  It's not like I have massive fingers or anything, but Deans were too small for me.  Other members introduced Deans T style connectors with a finger-friendly design.  Still quite small, but if you want Deans style, this might be a way to go.  

https://www.3dxr.co.uk/product/amasstplug-pair-connectors/

 

@Juggular Couldn't I just use an adapter like this one:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=39232&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6JjgBRDbARIsANfu58HLriLXR-2wAss3IYcNeFHPcLaj_s1lo3K4wGHoLqTy3ZPm4mbu-MkaAqOJEALw_wcB

Thanks, 

Ashicar

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Here are my ideas:

Female tamiya to male deans adapter

Overlander 60 watt car mini lipo charger

Overlander lipo safe sack

Overlander low profile 4500 mAH 3s lipo

Please find the faults here with connectivity to my 860 esc!

Thanks, 

Ashicar

 

 

 

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The Tamiya connector is the weak link. They struggle with 2s, and pose a very real risk of melting on 3s. They just aren't designed to handle the current of modern power systems.

You would be better served by cutting off the Tamiya connector from your ESC, soldering on a Deans in its place and doing away with the adapter. 

 

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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

The Tamiya connector is the weak link. They struggle with 2s, and pose a very real risk of melting on 3s. They just aren't designed to handle the current of modern power systems.

You would be better served by cutting off the Tamiya connector from your ESC, soldering on a Deans in its place and doing away with the adapter. 

 

Thanks

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On 12/5/2018 at 10:18 AM, TurnipJF said:

The Tamiya connector is the weak link. They struggle with 2s, and pose a very real risk of melting on 3s. 

I melted this one with a brushed motor and nimh!! 

2018-12-07_01-03-48

 

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2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

I melted this one with a brushed motor and nimh!! 

1

Nice, photo, Wooders. 

I'm surprised that Tamiya didn't come up with something else by now.  

Deans connectors were used for their LiFe batteries.  But I don't think they are going to stick with it?  T-connectors are good, but not the most user-friendly connectors in the world.  I think below photo is their attempt to make it easier to use.  On the other hand, anybody can make XT60 and sell it for profit -- it's license free.  Or they can create their own, like those bulky Traxxas connectors. (I hope not)  

(for now, I think Tamiya is waiting for a better battery technology, because LiFe is low-voltage, LiPo is fire-prone, Li-ion is high voltage, and fire safe. But the discharge rate is rather low.)

jLTm9Kk.jpg

 

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