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bjorklo

Rising Storm Rebuild

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I used to have a Rising Storm a good while back now, and I do as many other car’s I had regret selling it. Time has passed and I have got my self a NIB Rising Storm but I haven’t had the hart to break the seal and build the car. A new chance came along when one showed up on a local trading site for a very cheap price, i knew I had to get it. Another story is that I had to threaten with a police case over the seller since he didn’t send the car to me and didn’t answer mail. That said the car showed up and I started the project. 
The project is to rebuild the car and add some of the hop-ups I had back in the days and I guess some more will be done. In the end I hope I have a car that I can use as a runner and not only a shelf-queen.  

Here is how it looked when I got it

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Then I started taking it apart for the rebuild.

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And as always, the way to start before you get a good look on the parts is to give em a good bath. 

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I have ordered quite a few hop-up parts for the car, and most of them has arrived from all over the world. 

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The hop-up parts are: 

Tuning Steering Connection for Tamiya DF-02 DF02 Chassis Aluminium 4Kugellager

Tamiya Aluminium Steering Link 4WD 1:10 RC Cars Buggy Off Road #53865

Double Metal Rubber Sealed Ball Bearing (BLUE) For Tamiya DF-02 / DF02 Chassis

Tamiya Dust Cover For Adjuster 2WD 4WD 1:10 RC Cars Buggy Touring Truck #53980

Tamiya RC Model 3x50mm Hard Turnbuckle Shaft (2pcs) 53944

Tamiya 53942 3x42mm Hard Turnbuckle Shaft Rod(2pcs) Set OP942

Tamiya 53666 OP666 TT-01 Metal Motor Mount SB

Tamiya DF-02 Graphite Rear Skid Plate (Square STG-15R)

Tamiya DF-02 Graphite Front damper tower (Square STG-163)

Tamiya DF-02 Graphite Rear damper tower (Square STG-164)

GRAPHITE MAIN SHAFT ALLOY CONNECT FOR TAMIYA DF-02 DF02

Tamiya 53787 RC DF-02 Aluminum King Pins (Blue)

Tamiya 53790 RC Cup Joint For Universal Shaft Set (TT01/DF02/TT02/M05/M06) OP790

Tamiya 53791 OP791 DF-02 Universal Shaft Assembly

Tamiya 53788 OP788 DF-02 turn buckle set 4950344537884

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DF02!  

While it may or may not belong in the DF pedigree (maybe it should've been called  "TT02BB"). 

With some soft shocks, it's a quite decent buggy, in my opinion.  What color are you going to paint it with?

 

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8 hours ago, Juggular said:

DF02!  

While it may or may not belong in the DF pedigree (maybe it should've been called  "TT02BB"). 

With some soft shocks, it's a quite decent buggy, in my opinion.  What color are you going to paint it with?

 

I got some better shocks that I'm gonna use, I think it's TRF ones.  The color I haven't decided yet, so it might be boxart, or it might be light green instead of pink (the way i painted my old one.) 

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I think it fits as a DF-pedigree buggy, unlike the DF-03 which doesn't seems to fit the lineup. It is not quite close enough to be called a TT-01B I think, having a different tub.

Anyway, nice selection of hopups you have there. I use the same steering, turnbuckles and motor mount on mine, and they work well.

How about going for a variation on the boxart colours, perhaps with a metallic or dayglo pink in place of the standard one?

 

 

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On 12/20/2018 at 4:18 PM, TurnipJF said:

I think it fits as a DF-pedigree buggy, unlike the DF-03 which doesn't seems to fit the lineup. It is not quite close enough to be called a TT-01B I think, having a different tub.

Anyway, nice selection of hopups you have there. I use the same steering, turnbuckles and motor mount on mine, and they work well.

How about going for a variation on the boxart colours, perhaps with a metallic or dayglo pink in place of the standard one?

 

 

Good to hear that the parts works well. 

Thanks for the tip about paint, I will have a look at them and see how they look. 

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It's nice to see some love for a DF02.  Like @bjorklo I had a Plasma Edge, gave it away, and still have a sealed NIB Plasma Edge with a few extra Gravel Hound bodies lying around.  I don't want to break the seal either, so seeing some used examples getting some care is great.

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

A little bit more done today. Here is an overview picture of parts that I plan to use in this build, as mention before.

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I noticed that there were some small rocks stuck in the chassis.

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When I got em out I was a little supriced how much that really was there.

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The next thing I did, was to dye the gears, since I already had them apart.

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And I mounted them, with new ball bearings.

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And then the center drive shaft was to be mounted

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Next thing is the rear damper tower. I used the original one, but added the square carbon fiber part

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And I mounted the upper rods

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I will also try to use only black screws, but I’m not sure if I have enough of them.

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

Did the front gear housing and damper tower 

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Then I mounted the motor. I decided to use the same motor type I had in my first Rising Storm. 

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After mounting the motor I noticed that the motor could be moved a little bit, it's not a 100% tight fit. 

 

I tried with the original plastic mount also but it to was like this. So my question is, is it supposed to be like this or do I have to get new parts? 

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New parts won't help. They all do that. 

I stopped the wobble by greasing the motor mount, putting some steel epoxy in the chassis well and spur gear cover where the motor mount sits, then screwing it all together until the epoxy set, at which point the motor mount can be removed again thanks to the grease applied earlier. 

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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

New parts won't help. They all do that. 

I stopped the wobble by greasing the motor mount, putting some steel epoxy in the chassis well and spur gear cover where the motor mount sits, then screwing it all together until the epoxy set, at which point the motor mount can be removed again thanks to the grease applied earlier. 

Ohh, I'm surprised that Tamiya did something like this, it would be great to know if the in fact had a reason for it or not. 

But great tip, I think I must do the same thing myself. Thanks for the tip. 

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

I continued to finish the rear suspension. I was planing to make an lexan cover for the carbonfiber part, but I think I have to get a heat gun to be able to make a good one.

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The carbon Fibre plate is 1 mm higher that the chassis, so might look into that later.

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Updated to the better driveshafts

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Just missing the shocks now, hope I get the parts soon that I need to mount em.

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Then it’s the front suspension turn

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

Now I have mounted the electronics, and done the things I can do to finish the car without the missing parts.

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I went for the cheap solution when it comes to the electronics, because it works more than good enough for me.

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Just missing the part for mounting the antenna, but not sure if I’m gonna use it anyway.

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So far so good, I just mounted the original dampers, while I’m waiting for the parts for the TRF dampers.

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Since I got the electronics mounted I could test the drivetrain. I can’t say that I’m very happy with it, the motor is wobbeling as metion before, and the whole drivetrain makes allot of sound. I will try the tip I got with epoxy glue where the motor mount is, and grease the motor mount so it’s not glued to the chassis. Also there is allot of backlash in the suspesnsion, so I think I have to buy some spacers and try to get it more tight.

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They aren't the quietest of cars by any means. The enclosed propshaft tunnel seems to act as a resonating chamber, the loose-fitting motor mount contributes to added gear noise and even the fancy drive cups aren't the tightest of fits in the diff. It ought to quieten down a little once you have done the epoxy trick with the motor mount, but I suspect it will always be destined to be a bit noisy.

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4 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

They aren't the quietest of cars by any means. The enclosed propshaft tunnel seems to act as a resonating chamber, the loose-fitting motor mount contributes to added gear noise and even the fancy drive cups aren't the tightest of fits in the diff. It ought to quieten down a little once you have done the epoxy trick with the motor mount, but I suspect it will always be destined to be a bit noisy.

Hehe, didn't think about the props haft tunnel, but yeah you got a point. 

I noticed when I adjusted on the motor the sound changed, it seams to make the less sound when I lift the end of the motor up.  There is also quite allot of sound from the suspension and I hope some will go away once I get it more tight. 

Yeah I lust agree with you on the fancy drive cups, I would have thought it would be more tight. 

Hmm, I should make a before and after movie to show the difference in sound, if any :P

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For the motor mount, maybe one option to consider is doing what Tamiya did for the TT01.  In that model they have a hole in the pinion/spur cover for a set screw, and you can continue to insert the set screw until the tip makes contact with the motor mount.  This eliminates any up and down play.  I don't remember my DF02s having the amount of motor mount play you show in your video, but it's been 4-5 years since I last owned one and can't remember with certainty.  As for the a noisy drivetrain, all of mine had a cordless power tool sound to them.  Other shaft-drive models are more refined.

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10 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

For the motor mount, maybe one option to consider is doing what Tamiya did for the TT01.  In that model they have a hole in the pinion/spur cover for a set screw, and you can continue to insert the set screw until the tip makes contact with the motor mount.  This eliminates any up and down play.  I don't remember my DF02s having the amount of motor mount play you show in your video, but it's been 4-5 years since I last owned one and can't remember with certainty.  As for the a noisy drivetrain, all of mine had a cordless power tool sound to them.  Other shaft-drive models are more refined.

Oh, I will have to look into that. Thanks for the tip. 

Hehe, not sure what to call mine, but it sure makes allot of sound. 

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

I have found some tires to use. These came with a Top-Force I bought, but are unused and still soft so they should be ok. I also did tyre lettering in pink, I might do a second layer.

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The mailman brought me a new part, the square front stiffneer. I’m not sure how much it helps, but it looks nice and since I had it on my first Rising Storm I just had to have it.

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Not being any good in Japanese, I at first thought that I couldn’t use the alu steering arms, so I started to mount the original ones, until I realized that the kit did supply parts so it should be possible to use alu steering arms :P

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It do really look nice finished mounted.

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I also started masking the shell, because I want to try to paint it still if it’s snow outside. I want to see how it goes. if it goes ok, this means that I could paint other ones as well. When you see the state of the shell you understand why I could try this. It has been used without any paint on, the paint film is still on so it might be ok, but it does look really bad.

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Today I got some help or should I say the opposite, Luna just wanted to play with all the stuff on the bench until she finally calmed down.

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Got the parts I need for mounting the dampers today.

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The dampers I’m gonna use is a little bit longer than originals, but I don’t think that is gonna be a problem.

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So when it comes to setup of the dampers I’m kind of lost. Should them be harder at the back than the front or about the same? Also any suggestion on what oil to use front and rear are welcome. Anyone have (link to) a tutorial?

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Those look like buggy aeration dampers? You want thicker oil in the front than the rear. At a guess about 100cst difference front to rear difference. 400cst rear (tamiya kit oil) and 500cst front. Also stiffer front springs. If you need to see how to change oil in the dampers look up the TRF211XM manual for the technique. 

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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Those look like buggy aeration dampers? You want thicker oil in the front than the rear. At a guess about 100cst difference front to rear difference. 400cst rear (tamiya kit oil) and 500cst front. Also stiffer front springs. If you need to see how to change oil in the dampers look up the TRF211XM manual for the technique. 

Thanks for your tip, I will give it a go.  

Actually I'm not 100% sure I bought them used and it was sold as trf dampers, but that could very much be worng. 

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

They look like my 54028 buggy aeration dampers. They are super nice. 

Then they most likely are the same. 

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RisingStormLogo_zps0batxn0g.png

As I mention in an earlier post I would paint the body and wing, just to see if it’s possible to do since it’s winther. I don’t know if it was the cold or the fact that I was using flurocent pink paint that made it so hard to get the paint layed down in bends on the body. Maybe I did a bad job in cleaning it before paint? But it’s possible to paint as long as you have a warm place to let the paint dry. Because of the smell that was a problem for me, until I remembered that we have a fan sucking warm air out of our booth.

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I didn’t read the manual and i didn’t think at all when I painted the wing, since the cover plastic was underneath the wing i sprayed the pink colour on top of the wing :P So the rear wing I will have to fix/get a new one sometime. I might do that with the body also because I’m not 100% pleased with it.

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But it do looks nice with all the stickers applied

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Here is a link to my first Rising Storm, which I have tried to replicate (except the color )

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=114148

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

That’s looks ace. Love the colours 👌

Thanks :)

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