speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted December 22, 2018 A few thoughts: One, definitely get the thread-forming tap. Do not get a thread-cutting tap commonly found in most stores. The difference is the thread-cutting tap removes material and then the screw is loose until it finally seats. With a thread-forming tap the threads are formed, not cut, and the screw sees some resistance throughout all of its travel. Thread forming is more appropriate for these plastic parts. Two, on the ball diff it's reasonable to tighten it until you start to feel the torque increasing on the hex wrench, then back it off a quarter turn. Don't overtighten it as it may crush the balls or put divots in the diff rings, making it feel gritty. It's helpful to break in the diff on the bench; just chuck one side in an electric drill and spin it, holding the other joint cup. Go 30 seconds to 1 minute in each direction, then check your diff screw again. For the first battery pack take it easy and check your diff screw, then you can start getting more aggressive after setting the slipper clutch. Here's a link to some good writing on the topic of ball diffs and slipper clutches: https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/512013-how-properly-build-break-ball-differential-slipper-clutch.html 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mahjik 197 Posted December 23, 2018 14 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said: Two, on the ball diff it's reasonable to tighten it until you start to feel the torque increasing on the hex wrench, then back it off a quarter turn. Don't overtighten it as it may crush the balls or put divots in the diff rings, making it feel gritty. If the DN01 and 201 ball diffs are the same, the plastic nut on the other side of the diff will strip before you do any internal damage (learned this the hard way). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 803 Posted December 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Mahjik said: If the DN01 and 201 ball diffs are the same, the plastic nut on the other side of the diff will strip before you do any internal damage (learned this the hard way). They are the same except the dn01 diff cups are partially plastic which you should switch to the trf ones. The plastic gets stuck together on the ball diff after being sealed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted December 23, 2018 Looks good to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted December 25, 2018 Ok I am going to take a break here and wait for the hop-ups to get delivered AND enjoy the Holidays with my family! Meanwhile .... trying to keep things organized ! Merry Christmas Everyone! and Thank you for posting on this thread! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted December 30, 2018 I have completed an extra few steps today: mainly 11 to 13. Here are a few photos to illustrate my progress. Going to take a break for brunch ! By the way this is the Aluminum Motor Plate part #54276 on here ... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted December 31, 2018 Ok I went ahead and skipped steps 16-19 because I am waiting on the hop-ups parts #54440 (Suspension Weight Block) and #54265 (Reinforced Front Suspension Arms) to arrive and it might take a while ... I started step 20 which is the damper assembly. Oh boy, a lots of parts in this step and I learned the hard way that it's better to be equipped with the right tools. Instead I have decided to take a break here because I am afraid I will damage the piston rod with regular pliers trying to attach the plastic piece that will connect the damper to the chassis. I am thinking about ordering the PTK-8267 ProTek RC (TruTorque) Shock Shaft Pliers OR the Team Associated Factory Team Shock Shaft Pliersto do the job. Any suggestions? Expensive but both seems to be a great investments in the long run. Might as well order a shock stand as well, and the Duratrax should be back in stock from Amain on the 4th ... So here is where I stopped: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mahjik 197 Posted December 31, 2018 You can always use regular pliers, but put some paper towel pieces around the shaft before you grip it. That's what I've always done and never damaged a rod. However, those tools are great but you have to make sure they will handle the Tamiya shafts (i.e. just verify the shaft sizes before ordering). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted December 31, 2018 Investing in some dedicated shock shaft pliers is a good idea, especially if you're going to build several more cars in the future. Another option that works ok is to have a dedicated set of flush cutters and use them to grip the top-most thread on the shaft while installing the plastic eyelet. Something like these, these, or these. If you use a set of flush cutters to grip the top thread, mark them and save them for shocks only. The shock shaft will damage the cutting edge, so they're not good for nipping parts from sprues anymore. Get a second set and save them just for cutting plastic parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted January 1, 2019 Whilst you are there and willing to wait to parts, I would recommend going to full aeration spec on the dampers. The manual for that kit says to leave 1mm gap off oil from the top then put the caps on, but in my experience it's almost impossible to get the dampers consistent and not hydraulic lock. Order some M2 x 5 cap head screws (you will need 1 per shock) and drill out the little dimple in the centre of the shock cap with a 1.5mm drill until it breaks through to the cross tube from the aerating valve. Check out page 12 of the TRF211 manual to see what to do https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/42288.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 1, 2019 I ended up ordering the Team Associated Factory Team Shock Shaft Pliers and the Duratrax Shock stand from ebay. I had a gift card and a coupon code that made it worth it. 13 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said: Whilst you are there and willing to wait to parts, I would recommend going to full aeration spec on the dampers. The manual for that kit says to leave 1mm gap off oil from the top then put the caps on, but in my experience it's almost impossible to get the dampers consistent and not hydraulic lock. Order some M2 x 5 cap head screws (you will need 1 per shock) and drill out the little dimple in the centre of the shock cap with a 1.5mm drill until it breaks through to the cross tube from the aerating valve. Check out page 12 of the TRF211 manual to see what to do https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/42288.pdf @ThunderDragonCy the manual also shows some type of o ring on the screw (step 3). And how do you manage step 2, filling up the cap and attach it to the cylinder without spilling oil everywhere? Lol is there a special technique? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 2, 2019 It looks like only the 2x5 mm screws (no o ring) are needed for the TRF201 dampers. I don't know if they are included in the kit but they should since they are labelled as BC8 (i.e comes in Bag C) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted January 2, 2019 6 hours ago, Coach_Rico said: It looks like only the 2x5 mm screws (no o ring) are needed for the TRF201 dampers. I don't know if they are included in the kit but they should since they are labelled as BC8 (i.e comes in Bag C) Its possible they are in the kit as an option to use. I never built a TRF201 from a kit so I don't know. As for the technique for building. Do it quickly, and you still get oil everywhere! It doesn't spill out of the cap like you think it will though. Oil is a lot thicker than water,which is what your intuitive expectation will be based on. Just hold the top of the damper with a paper towel and you'll catch most of it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 11, 2019 So it seems I will be stuck at this point for a while because my one of my order for parts has been lost in the mail apparently! So I went ahead and ordered again AND I'M back teaching full time... so more delays. I figured I am going to work on painting the body while I am waiting. I'm thinking some type of metallic blue or silver or even matte black or combo. Decision .... Decision ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 11, 2019 Sorry about your shipping problem; I hope it's ultimately resolved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 20, 2019 I finally received my hop up parts and tools to build the shocks so I made some progress today. I am at the point where I am about to fill up the dampers with oil but I am not sure if I am going to go full aeration specs yet. Kinda scared of screwing up since it would be my first time ever drilling through the damper caps ... here are some photos: 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted January 20, 2019 I would encourage you to have a go at drilling. I know it seems intimidating, but because there is the cross hole in the cap to drill into and a guide stamp in the cap it really is easy. The guide pip keeps the drill straight and a bit of gentle pressure and you feel the moment it cuts through. I only say this because my experience of trying to build them non-aeration and not get hydraulic lock in the shocks was incredibly frustrating whereas as bleeding them through the aeration cap is super easy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 20, 2019 Kudos to @ThunderDragonCy advice. Drilling the caps was easy. However, I used a 1/16" ( .0625" ) drill bit which corresponds to 1.5875mm instead of the 1.5mm that you recommended in your previous post. That was the smallest size I had available in the house. I hope it will be fine and only time will tell! Then I followed these instructions to fill up the dampers. The TRF201 kit includes the 2x5mm screws but not the 2mm O-rings. Hardest part was actually not to spill oil everywhere while attaching the caps and my hands are now moisturized for at least a month! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 20, 2019 Alright coming along well. I am waiting on having all the electronics installed before setting it up to 23 mm clearance: Here are my electronics (and pinion): As you can tell I need a battery and charger. Any recommendations for a 2S Lipo (that's the max for my esc/motor combo) and charger? I am most likely going to order online or pick-up locally to test all the electronics before mounting everything to the car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mahjik 197 Posted January 20, 2019 I'm using: https://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?products_id=5226 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MICHAELs TopForce17 586 Posted January 20, 2019 Gens ace or venom 5000mah. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 21, 2019 so after a trip to my local hobby shop I ended up with these (goal was under $90): 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 21, 2019 So about mounting the motor and gearing ...??? from researching I gather that the Yokomo Zero 13.5T has appropriate gear ratio 1: 8.0 for 1/10 off 2WD vehicle. Since I am using the optional 77T spur, a 25T pinion gear gives me 1: 8.01 ratio. Almost right on the money. Too good to be true. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach_Rico 32 Posted January 22, 2019 My ESC comes with bare wires and I am not sure what connectors I need to solder to connect it to the motor which comes with these: Should I just replace both ESC and motor sides with bullet connectors or solder directly the ESC wires to the motor? What do you guys think it's best? Thx! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MICHAELs TopForce17 586 Posted January 22, 2019 You could unsolder motor wires and solder esc wires to motor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
