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Show us your Ghetto Mods......

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Ghetto mods, we have all done them , but lets share, I'll start

I believe the best ghetto mods are done for free or with already broken parts, who here who has pushed there Egress re re hard hasn't broken the front shock tower?

I couldn't throw away carbon fibre, must be the Scot in me lol, so I came up with this...…

 

A nice new front arm stabilizer for my vintage Super Sabre, all the holes line up, just cut off the excess broken material, turn upside down and screw on, easy

 

 

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I took some leftover CR01 and Lunch Box parts and made a monster-truckish thing for don't-give-a-care driving at the beach.

The Lunch Box gearbox is flipped and drilled for a four-link setup; the old mount is used as a makeshift wheelie bar with airplane wheels.  Tires are cut with a Dremel.

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Hollow CR01 front axle housing with Frog axle stubs fit the bearings used in the front Lunch Box wheels; steering links are flipped on the servo arm to counteract the anti-Ackermann of the "ahead of the axle" steering setup:

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CR01 chassis rails are cut with a hack saw to shorten them to fit within a Lunch Box shell; the center gearbox skid plate uses screws and nitro fuel tubing as a friction-fit for a hard case shorty LiPo.  A strip of Velcro goes under the skid plate and over the top of the battery to keep it from popping up.  Note the front axle is wider than the rear one; that's just how it is.  The original CR01 CVA dampers don't use the rocker arm system.  The body posts are old TB03/TA05 posts cut way down and screwed to the chassis rails.

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Anyhow, the result of combining leftover/used CR01, Lunch Box, TA/TB, Frog, and miscellaneous parts meets the goal for a zero-care beach basher.

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Snappy1's mod is too neatly done to call it "Ghetto."  Who knew that fit so well?  

I also object to Speedy's $350 + $150 kit bashing!  LoL... Too expensive and too professionally done!  You can't call it ghetto if it looks better than a Tamiya kit!  (I gotta steal your Dremel cutter idea, the tires look fantastic!  Knowing how exacting you are, you measured each tread and marked them and drew lines, so you could have precision cuts?)  

My vintage Grasshopper body lost a light and there is a crack that's running through it.  Buying a new body isn't the most satisfying solution!  So I put some white styrene sheets under it.  Zip tied it while the "plasti-weld" was setting.  I drew red and green lines with sharpies.  

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Now, One-Eyed-Grasshopper sports a proper ghetto-repair.  I should call it Odin's-hopper!  Uh...your majesty, your patch is on the wrong side...

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Mad Bison's counter gear cover was getting bashed all the time.  So I made a skid plate out of a brass sheet... ghetto style!

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Blackfoot re-re's pistons were too stiff and not adjustable.  If you can't afford new shocks, all you need is a file!  I forgot how many notches I cut in.  6 for the front, and 8 for the rear?  They are indeed softer!  

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And instead of buying a transmitter with a bearing, I installed a bearing on my Flysky GT3B.  Smooth as butter!  Ghetto style!  

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Replacing 8 AA batteries were too expensive, so I put in an 11.1v battery.  But the door won't close properly without the battery tray.  So I put in small styrene pillars to support the door. 

Who said necessity is the mother of invention?  Poverty is the mother of ghetto-mods!   

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@Juggular No, I put the axle stub in a vise and spun each tire by hand while holding the Dremel flat against the work bench.  I might have spun the tires and used a piece of chalk to get the lines marked first; it's been awhile.

Your shock piston mod is both horrifying and impressive at the same time!

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When I think of this thread, I think of Juggular's Mad Bison gear cover. Hey, it works, doesn't it?!

I used to have a sketchier setup that rammed a blue-anodized piece from the F103 15th Anniversary Kit for my Lancia Rally, but when I decided to fit a re-release bumper instead, I came up with the following:

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I lightly notched the stock bumper:

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Brass spacers, inordinate screws, washers, and what looks like a rubber sleeve were then employed:

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The answer was to fix the bumper at a common point to the ORV chassis bumper mount, and then use the long screws as bump-stops of sorts for the new front bumper; the notches were cut out for clearance for the long screws, as you may see here:

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It might be more apparent here:

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Snowplow-style bumpers are right in character for this car:

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The most important thing is that it worked; I saved the front end on several occasions with this setup.

One honourable mention goes to the noise-making device on my Lancia 037 project:

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And the other to the engine bay I built for it:

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Many of the tubular sections (especially that roll cage) are sprues from the actual kit. "Free" styrene stock! A combination of limited budget and limited skill meant I was making do with what I had. It would have been much better to find dedicated materials for this kind of task, but I feel even more proud of my work this way, knowing what I started with.

I would like to keep believing that both sound machine and engine detail are convincing - as long as the car keeps moving!

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Did these CF parts to save money from expesive Tamiya genuine parts.

Bought 2mm CF board and cut the parts myself using Dremel. ESC and servo trays, rear deck stiffener, rear body post stiffener.

 

 

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The closest I have have come is probably my homebrew chassis plates for my Minortaur.

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ABS sheet cut to size and sandwiched with glue.

Pretty much ready to run but still yet to be tested! One day I might finish the body for it...

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Somewhere I have an old photo of a vintage Grasshopper that I had in the 90s (wearing a Fox body held on with an elastic band) which was all I had left running, until I clipped a kerb and took off the front left suspension tower.

I fixed it using the shock and shock tower from a broken 3-speed Hilux, held in place with various bits of some kid's construction kit which was a cheap copy of Meccano.

Since one side of the car was OK, I only fixed the broken side.  For a while we called it Robocar.

I'm not sure I have a digital copy of the photo anywhere...

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My dt01 stop ball connector from falling out mod :)

and heat sink is cut in half to fit this motor position.

 

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Found some more.

1: threads in motor body were screwed

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2: lexan LiPo holders

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3: F104v2/rm01  motor mount on F103

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As this F103 was sold, the project stopped. But my buddy in meantime has build the F103 with exotek

motor mount and F104v2 side roll damper.

 

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11 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Did these CF parts to save money from expesive Tamiya genuine parts.

Bought 2mm CF board and cut the parts myself using Dremel. ESC and servo trays, rear deck stiffener, rear body post stiffener.

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I think the finish and detail on your modifications are too good to be considered "ghetto" ;) Now, if it were made of hastily-snipped aluminum plate or unpainted plastic...

That reminds me of the time I extended a WR-02C to fit an Opel Ascona shell:

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Inspired by TC member IBIFTKH's similar-in-premise modification, unlike him, I did not bother with using metal for the plates, proper spacers, or even paint:

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Long screws and 1150 plastic bushings help hold things together. And it still works after some rather-spirited driving!

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5 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

 

My dt01 stop ball connector from falling out mod :)

and heat sink is cut in half to fit this motor position.

 

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 That looks proper ghetto!

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Fitting an Eagle Racing overdriven spool into a TT02. Standard prop joint is too short for the keyed end to seat into the new pinion gear and the sleeve on the gear was too long to fit inside the diff compartment. Solved by adding set screws (made from M3 bolts) to grab on to the flats of the joint, and 'lathed' the sleeve down to the correct length using a cordless drill and a dremel. Working great so far :) 
img%5D
 

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@nbTMM is that spool overdriven to create a CS drift car?  I considered doing the same with my TT02D but wasn't sure what mods would be required.  Looks great.

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On 12/24/2018 at 8:43 AM, Grastens said:

One honourable mention goes to the noise-making device on my Lancia 037 project:

2n19ikp.jpg

This is amazing😂😂😂

Did it make proper "parp parp braap" rally exhaust noises?

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On 12/29/2018 at 8:54 PM, Mad Ax said:

@nbTMM is that spool overdriven to create a CS drift car?  I considered doing the same with my TT02D but wasn't sure what mods would be required.  Looks great.

Yep, it's 16/33T (Eagle racing 3717V2-126) versus the standard 15/39T. I've also got an Active Hobby 13/42T underdrive in the front which together with the rear overdrive gives a respectable 1:1.57 CS ratio. With just the underdrive (1:1.24 CS), standard gear diffs and standard lock (as much as dog bones will handle) it was pretty fun although did understeer a fair bit off throttle. Where you'd normally be doing a rally style drift with the wheels pointed straight ahead you'd instead be starting to countersteer.
With both underdrive and overdrive gears it's now undriveable - not enough lock to catch the slides and it understeers atrociously off throttle as the front wheels lock up hard under braking relative to the rears. I've got universal shafts, a front one way and big angle steering kit on the way which should sort that.
Unfortunately the gears are kind of expensive and require mods to fit at both ends (underdrive gear needs redrilling to fit a one way centre). Eagle racing do have some stronger overdrive spools to give you a decent CS ratio with the standard front gears although this makes the rear gears pretty small and I don't know if those small gears would wear quickly. With the combination of under/overdrive gears at least there are decently sized gears at both ends.

Eagle spools:
http://www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=3717V2


 

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On 12/24/2018 at 4:20 AM, speedy_w_beans said:

I took some leftover CR01 and Lunch Box parts and made a monster-truckish thing for don't-give-a-care driving at the beach.

The Lunch Box gearbox is flipped and drilled for a four-link setup; the old mount is used as a makeshift wheelie bar with airplane wheels.  Tires are cut with a Dremel.

img37537_121201874814_4.jpg

 

I think a video is needed...please...pretty please?

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I haven't posted in here yet, here is my ghetto mod, 3 WT-01 gearboxes bolted together. 3 brushless motors, 3x 2s lipo @ 7.4volts. x ESC's.

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Must get some new pics. 

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On 12/29/2018 at 5:00 AM, Superluminal said:

This is amazing😂😂😂

Did it make proper "parp parp braap" rally exhaust noises?

You bet it does ;)

I have just shared a sketchy and contrived substitute for thick hexagonal adaptors on the front of a 2WD car using 4WD front knuckles:

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I surmise that these modifications are really in the spirit if they use tape, zip-ties, and/or old bushings mashed together where there is clearly a better and cleaner solution :P

Speaking of which - janky solutions like this are probably why I was never satisfied with my Wheelie Rally. Look at the driver figure:

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That is all double-sided tape under there - not a screw in sight. No wonder Willy kept shifting :ph34r:

Might I add that I was really hoping Gorilla Tape and CA glue were all I needed to strengthen the styrene shell and hold windows in place:

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Lots of things I would do over again with this one :P But the shell is still kicking around somewhere - in how many pieces, who knows!

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Not being to impressed with the Zip-Ties securing method on the Dust cover of the Blackfoot, I came up with this using some long mounting screws, nuts & washers, from an old car speaker set. A short piece of copper pipe that just happened to be the right length, rolling around in the bottom of the kitchen/bathroom renovations box for goodness knows how long. But thought would come in handy one day. And errr well Zip-ties.:blink:. Anyway at least now the cover is removable without having to cut the Zippies each time and was free.

First drilled the holes in the copper so the long screw could be inserted & secured with a nut. Then feed the Zippies through the small holes, put the metal Chassis cross member in and secured tightening the Zippies. Add 2 more nuts and washer which supports the underside of the Dust cover. Drill a hole in the Dust cover, bung in the new fangled post, put the screws back in. Washer & nut on top. Cut off excess thread of screw. I think it was actually quicker to do than write up :).

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I don't have a picture of it anymore, but imagine the following...

Take a Grasshopper and cut the chassis and body in half, just after the steering servo.

Extend chassis with 20cm meccano bars, and extend body with some ABS sheet. Paint it bright orange.

Mount lunchbox tires on the back, keep the original fronts.

Voila, instant top-fuel dragster lookalike!! :lol:

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My ghetto mod center servo on orv using a hot nail to make new holes in the bracket & a bit of a servo horn as a nut.

Ghetto pt1

now round my way that’s called a pikey fix aka ghetto mod.

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Heat shrink as boots over your prop shaft cups.  It works for lots of different prop shafts too including the hardened prop shaft in Top Force, Egress, TA02 etc.  Just push some smaller diameter heat shrink over the ends of the prop shaft first before you assemble them and then use a larger diameter heat shrink over both the cup and shaft.  This keeps out dirt, slows down wear and stops the shaft from chattering.  Some hardened prop shafts you just heat shrink straight over the ends...done !  

 

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I have used braid fishing line and super glue to do  a temp fix on things like cross braces and wheel uprights. Glue the parts back together, brush the glue on the part and wrap the braid line around it, then brush more super glue on. Same concept as fibreglassing. Works enough until you can get to the LHS or order spares online.

There is always braid and super glue in my tool box now.

Have also used small pieces of aluminium plate and right angle to fix shock towers. Think DT03 rear tower. Glue the pieces together, cut the plate to size and drill some 3mm holes, then use 3mm bolts and nuts to secure it.

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