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Slyda

Silver Bullet Super Hotshot Build

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And steps 9-14 also done. The next step required some painting so now I'm watching paint dry.

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Think these look STUNNING, best looking of the HotShot family by a mile. Your about half way if not more on the car.

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Any further update to your build thread? I'm in the process building my Super Hotshot and eager to see how yours is turning out.

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This is not helping me resisting the urge to purchase one of these.

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Can’t help with OP’s Super Hotshot progress, but my Hotshot is pretty much at the same stage. Get one GTodd, you know it makes sense!

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Edited by AJB123
Touched up the driver’s paint job after seeing the photo I’d posted!
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Oh man, so awesome. It's such a slippery slope and, I'd need to get MIP ball differentials, all ball bearing, another Brushless set up.....

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3 hours ago, GTodd said:

Oh man, so awesome. It's such a slippery slope and, I'd need to get MIP ball differentials, all ball bearing, another Brushless set up.....

Sounds like you've already put in the hard work of thinking, researching and planning. It'd be a shame to waste all that invested effort...!!!

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How’s the progress slyda, she running yet send some pics if so and how’s the gt running in it?

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On 1/9/2019 at 12:25 AM, AJB123 said:

Sounds like you've already put in the hard work of thinking, researching and planning. It'd be a shame to waste all that invested effort...!!!

Just do it GTodd, you won't regret it.

AJB123, thats a great paintjob on your driver, just finished my touchups today and it unfortunately looks nothing as slick as what you've managed there. Will post a pic later today. Looks like we're all running this build in parallel!

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On 1/8/2019 at 2:03 PM, GTodd said:

Oh man, so awesome. It's such a slippery slope and, I'd need to get MIP ball differentials, all ball bearing, another Brushless set up.....

You don't need MIP ball diffs right off the bat. I have a set of MIP diff's built up ready to go in one of my shot's, but have yet needed to. I run a 13.5T brushless in my SS, and have yet to experience any drive train issues. Also the Super Hotshot comes fully ball raced.......

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What an awesome build - still to spray the body and wing and apply decals etc. But we're just about there.

AJB123 and Slyda, post some pics of yours when you get a chance.

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You’re ahead of me, and mine’s not a Super, but it’s an awesome build as you say! 😃

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Looking great! Will be interested to hear how it runs on brushless. I'm using the stock motor.

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I need to get this! In the back yard this would be a beast

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2 hours ago, nginsb said:

Looking great! Will be interested to hear how it runs on brushless. I'm using the stock motor.

I'm interested to see too! It's just a 17.5T, so I'm expecting it'll be similar to yours. The Hotshot only comes with a basic silver can, though, which gave me the excuse to get another shiny part! If I'd gone for the Super Hotshot I'd have stuck with the stock motor.

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2 minutes ago, GTodd said:

I need to get this! In the back yard this would be a beast

Absolutely - glad you've seen the light!

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Electronics and steering in, configured and working, and I've just fitted the front bumper. How was the bumper on yours? I had a battle with that little 6mm screw - it wasn't really long enough to bite in the aluminium hex part in the gearbox... Maybe it cross-threaded slightly and took out a tiny fraction of a turn, but hardly... And then it just wouldn't bite. In the end I had to spin the aluminium part round 180 degrees to get another clean thread, and swapped to a different 6mm screw. This time it seemed to bite OK, but still doesn't seem to go in very far although it did at least tighten.

The one good thing is that I found a spare 3x6mm screw in my original vintage Fox's box (I think I'd had to buy a spare screw bag A back in about 1988 when I bent a long screw) and it was about 0.2mm longer, so figured it might bite better. I like that there's a shared vintage part between them! (Along with the old humbrol enamel matt flesh paint for the driver's face which has somehow survived 30 years!)

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2 hours ago, AJB123 said:

Electronics and steering in, configured and working, and I've just fitted the front bumper. How was the bumper on yours? I had a battle with that little 6mm screw - it wasn't really long enough to bite in the aluminium hex part in the gearbox... Maybe it cross-threaded slightly and took out a tiny fraction of a turn, but hardly... And then it just wouldn't bite. In the end I had to spin the aluminium part round 180 degrees to get another clean thread, and swapped to a different 6mm screw. This time it seemed to bite OK, but still doesn't seem to go in very far although it did at least tighten.

The one good thing is that I found a spare 3x6mm screw in my original vintage Fox's box (I think I'd had to buy a spare screw bag A back in about 1988 when I bent a long screw) and it was about 0.2mm longer, so figured it might bite better. I like that there's a shared vintage part between them! (Along with the old humbrol enamel matt flesh paint for the driver's face which has somehow survived 30 years!)

Had no trouble with the supplied 3x6mm in that spot - little bit of thread-lock and the spring washer together with the other washer and it went in flush. Odd that yours didn't fit well - but the fact that you still have parts from your '88 build, now featuring in this re-re makes for an even more special build. How that paint has lasted - as they say, they don't make 'em like they used to.

I took mine for a quick test run today, performs really well with the GT motor, I'm just using a 7.2Nimh. Something I noticed and perhaps you can comment on - the steering servo setup, with the dual servo arms, seems to create an imbalance in the angle of turn for each wheel. So it end up with quite a bit of under-steer. I'll try to post some pics of what I'm getting at - but you can probably notice at a point, the one wheel (inner) will have much more steer than the other (outer) in a turn.

 

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44 minutes ago, nginsb said:

I took mine for a quick test run today, performs really well with the GT motor, I'm just using a 7.2Nimh. Something I noticed and perhaps you can comment on - the steering servo setup, with the dual servo arms, seems to create an imbalance in the angle of turn for each wheel. So it end up with quite a bit of under-steer. I'll try to post some pics of what I'm getting at - but you can probably notice at a point, the one wheel (inner) will have much more steer than the other (outer) in a turn.

I'm just going to be 7.2 Nimh too. I can't comment on the handling of mine yet as it hasn't got as far as having wheels! But from what I've read the chassis does understeer quite a bit. Apparently lifting off to get the weight to shift forwards as you start to turn in, and then accelerating once it's turning gets it around corners! I think not having a centre diff maybe doesn't help, but mostly the suspension geometry and weight distribution does it. I kind of think of it as character, though, this being their first ever 4WD chassis design. A brand new design would handle way better, but it's not the same!

Bump steer it has a real reputation for - pressing down on the front suspension the wheels point in more, lifting it up they point out more. That doesn't help the handling and happens because the steering arms aren't parallel to the suspension arms - again, their first attempt and "character"!

If I've understood what you mean about the inner wheel having more steer than the outer, though, then that's is deliberate and correct. It's Ackermann Steering and is correct because, looking from above, the inner wheels make a smaller circle than the outer ones, so the inner ones should be steered more.

And yeah - I've no idea how that paint has lasted! It's a bit thick and gloopy, but OK for doing a matt face. I used it on the re-release Wild One I build last year too, so all 3 share the same pot of paint!

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5 hours ago, AJB123 said:

Electronics and steering in, configured and working, and I've just fitted the front bumper. How was the bumper on yours? I had a battle with that little 6mm screw - it wasn't really long enough to bite in the aluminium hex part in the gearbox... Maybe it cross-threaded slightly and took out a tiny fraction of a turn, but hardly... And then it just wouldn't bite. In the end I had to spin the aluminium part round 180 degrees to get another clean thread, and swapped to a different 6mm screw. This time it seemed to bite OK, but still doesn't seem to go in very far although it did at least tighten.

The one good thing is that I found a spare 3x6mm screw in my original vintage Fox's box (I think I'd had to buy a spare screw bag A back in about 1988 when I bent a long screw) and it was about 0.2mm longer, so figured it might bite better. I like that there's a shared vintage part between them! (Along with the old humbrol enamel matt flesh paint for the driver's face which has somehow survived 30 years!)

I had the exact same problem with the 6mm screw on my rere non-super Hotshot, it looks like the bumper part is the same. I eventually gave up and replaced the screw with a racing drone motor mount hex head-screw.

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10 hours ago, AJB123 said:

But from what I've read the chassis does understeer quite a bit. Apparently lifting off to get the weight to shift forwards as you start to turn in, and then accelerating once it's turning gets it around corners! I think not having a centre diff maybe doesn't help, but mostly the suspension geometry and weight distribution does it. I kind of think of it as character, though, this being their first ever 4WD chassis design. A brand new design would handle way better, but it's not the same!

Bump steer it has a real reputation for - pressing down on the front suspension the wheels point in more, lifting it up they point out more. That doesn't help the handling and happens because the steering arms aren't parallel to the suspension arms - again, their first attempt and "character"!

If I've understood what you mean about the inner wheel having more steer than the outer, though, then that's is deliberate and correct. It's Ackermann Steering and is correct because, looking from above, the inner wheels make a smaller circle than the outer ones, so the inner ones should be steered more.

I remember this about the original models, I've never had any of the Hotshot chassis iterations but I don't know if you remember the Marui Shogun or Ninja - they had a great ability to drift through the corners by simply lifting off the throttle and punching it back on in the turn. I'm still trying to locate these vintage cars to restore (some 30 years on), they're tucked away in boxes somewhere collecting dust.

Interesting to read your link on the steering - exactly what I mean. I was initially considering adjusting the servo endpoints to limit the difference in degree between the wheels at full turn but then thought about the radio gear that these models would have originally been designed around in the 80's - we didn't have programmable endpoint adjustments so more likely these models would have intended to be operated through the full servo range anyway.

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