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Fabia130vRS

Help with info about building modified TC

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So my plan is to get my Xray T1fFK05 running, since it has not experienced any driving in a long time.

https://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1281&Xnet_Session=1d252cccc33c1f3dab40b37645e5b188

2w33w93.jpg

this was the last brushed setup  a LRP GT2 17x2 motor on 2s for testing the chassis as I just got it.

New setup, parts already orderd.

SERVO: Trackstar D303 digital servo 4.5kg 0.10s nylon gear

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigytm-drft-303-1-10th-d-spec-steering-servo-4-5kg-0-10sec-39g.html?affiliate_code=GTQKAOUFXEHGWKF&_asc=83067543

ESC: Hobbyking X-Car 120A

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-x-car-120a-brushless-car-esc-sensored-sensorless.html?affiliate_code=GTQKAOUFXEHGWKF&_asc=7869572874

MOTOR: Trackstar 4.5T sensored brushless 6580kV

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-4-5t-sensored-brushless-motor-v2-roar-approved.html?affiliate_code=GTQKAOUFXEHGWKF&_asc=8392185246

TX&RX:  Sanwa MX-V 2.4Ghz & Sanwa RX-37W

BATTERY: Turnigy nano-tech 6600mAh 2S2P 65/130C

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-6600mah-2s2p-65-130c-hardcase-lipo-pack.html?affiliate_code=GTQKAOUFXEHGWKF&_asc=7360737198

according to the electronic specs, the battery should give enough juice and the weight of all is 630-650gr, the car itself according to XRAY websitehas 560gr  and they clain RTR weight to be 1380gr

I mostly want to use this esc, I have read somewhere that it can be flashed with a HobbyWing ezrun firmware to get more settings from the esc, since this one is a copy of the ezrun esc from hobbywing?

 

also this motor specs fit into the 120A esc's but is this stuff legal to be raced? I know club rules  may be different, but how would such a combo compare to at some of your clubs modified class? this is a old chassis back from the nimh period I would say. 

I am using the 30 5787 Optional 87T 48P spur gear and I had a 22T pinion on it with a total FDR of 5,65, with this 6580kV brushless motor I want to put either a 18T or 14T pinion on it to get a total od 6,53 or 7,91, this option is orderd already.

so my main questions basically are,where to look up official legal race equipment sheet and your thoughts about how competitv this chassis might be to AE TC6.1 or other newer model since I have never raced before so no club expirience yet :) but this class seems to be the most interesting one.

and has anybody ever flashed a HK XCAR esc to HW software/firmware??

 

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Ummmm... You say that you never raced before, but yet you have chosen to race in the modified class with a 4.5T motor.....?

No disrespect, but how well can you drive?  (Driving around a race track with several other cars is a whole lot different to bashing around your local car park..)

Personally I would have suggested a slower motor so that you can get used to driving your car around a track, and then upgrade the motor, (and racing class) as your driving skills improve..

You are probably best to talk to your local racing club / track about what classes (motors) they run, and also if they consider your equipment to be legal for racing..

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I haven't chosen to race in modified class, I wish I had where, we dont have a track locally here, it is more mental. I am a club member, and our closest track is about 600km from where I live, they drive a open class, and there is pretty much anything allowed.

No disrespect to you too, but that post of yours wasnt very helpful.

I do own a F103, TA05IFS, the F103 has a 13,5T brushless in it, in the TA05 I have a 10T brushless sistem... so no need for slower motors in the Xray.

also to mention the Xray is very well setup and drives sharp like a knife compared to my TA05.

So my questions were, has anybody yet flashed a HK esc with a HW firmware? how complicated is it, the only firmware I have flashed was the SonyEricsson K750 to W800 :)

and how would such a old touring car compare in your club with these components? any recommendations are welcome. does everything needto be approved or only esc, battery, motor?

So if you think now, but why bother if you cant race it... we have a nice little playground with green asphalt, we organise track days from time to time, max number of 5 cars were there, I can say that I am a good responsible driver, would not be scared to attempt racing in modified class in my country.

11rx7js.jpg

this is where we drive, speeds on the straight with the TA05 and a FDR  5, speed get high up to 65kmh.

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6 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

I haven't chosen to race in modified class, I wish I had where, we dont have a track locally here, it is more mental. I am a club member, and our closest track is about 600km from where I live, they drive a open class, and there is pretty much anything allowed.

No disrespect to you too, but that post of yours wasnt very helpful.

I do own a F103, TA05IFS, the F103 has a 13,5T brushless in it, in the TA05 I have a 10T brushless sistem... so no need for slower motors in the Xray.

also to mention the Xray is very well setup and drives sharp like a knife compared to my TA05.

So my questions were, has anybody yet flashed a HK esc with a HW firmware? how complicated is it, the only firmware I have flashed was the SonyEricsson K750 to W800 :)

and how would such a old touring car compare in your club with these components? any recommendations are welcome. does everything needto be approved or only esc, battery, motor?

So if you think now, but why bother if you cant race it... we have a nice little playground with green asphalt, we organise track days from time to time, max number of 5 cars were there, I can say that I am a good responsible driver, would not be scared to attempt racing in modified class in my country.

 

Lets try this again shall we...

I cannot help with the flashing of the HobbyKing ESC.. (I have done it on my Tekin ESC's via a PC and it is quite easy to do on those)

A good driver with an older RC car will often still beat the worst driver with the newest car... Take note of how many big name drivers around the world are running older vintage off-road buggies like the RC10 and are doing well against the newer buggies these days...

The concern that I would have if racing an older TC is spare parts availability... The chances are that you are going to crash and break something at some point, or have things wear out from the power of the motor, and you may not easily be able to get replacement spare parts for your car......

As for the components being Approved or Legal.... Again, this will probably be up to the club that you are racing at... Some clubs may require that the Motor and batteries be approved, others may not care.. A safe bet would be to buy items that are ROAR approved... At my local club here in Australia, running approved motors and batteries was not a big concern at club meetings (LiPo batteries had to be hard cased), but at major meetings the Motors, ESC's and Batteries had to be approved.. I have no idea what your club in Croatia requires.. YOU will have to ask them yourself... Understand?

As for my comment on your driving ability and the 4.5T motor... Just because you are running in the modified class, doesn't mean that you have to choose the lowest turn motor that is available... The reality is you could use any motor from a 25.5T down to a 4.5T, but depending on the size of the track and the traction available, you may do faster lap times with a slower motor.. Like I said, racing around a track with several other cars is a lot more difficult than driving around in a big carpark on your own... I remember one night at racing, all of the guys racing in the Stock class decided to put a modified motor in for one heat / race.. I was doing much faster lap times with the 27 turn rebuildable stock motor that I removed than the 12 x 4 modified motor that I had fitted for that race.. (I put the 27T rebuildable stock motor back in for the remaining races)...

Good luck...

 

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1 hour ago, Backlash said:

Lets try this again shall we...

I cannot help with the flashing of the HobbyKing ESC.. (I have done it on my Tekin ESC's via a PC and it is quite easy to do on those)

A good driver with an older RC car will often still beat the worst driver with the newest car... Take note of how many big name drivers around the world are running older vintage off-road buggies like the RC10 and are doing well against the newer buggies these days...

The concern that I would have if racing an older TC is spare parts availability... The chances are that you are going to crash and break something at some point, or have things wear out from the power of the motor, and you may not easily be able to get replacement spare parts for your car......

As for the components being Approved or Legal.... Again, this will probably be up to the club that you are racing at... Some clubs may require that the Motor and batteries be approved, others may not care.. A safe bet would be to buy items that are ROAR approved... At my local club here in Australia, running approved motors and batteries was not a big concern at club meetings (LiPo batteries had to be hard cased), but at major meetings the Motors, ESC's and Batteries had to be approved.. I have no idea what your club in Croatia requires.. YOU will have to ask them yourself... Understand?

As for my comment on your driving ability and the 4.5T motor... Just because you are running in the modified class, doesn't mean that you have to choose the lowest turn motor that is available... The reality is you could use any motor from a 25.5T down to a 4.5T, but depending on the size of the track and the traction available, you may do faster lap times with a slower motor.. Like I said, racing around a track with several other cars is a lot more difficult than driving around in a big carpark on your own... I remember one night at racing, all of the guys racing in the Stock class decided to put a modified motor in for one heat / race.. I was doing much faster lap times with the 27 turn rebuildable stock motor that I removed than the 12 x 4 modified motor that I had fitted for that race.. (I put the 27T rebuildable stock motor back in for the remaining races)...

Good luck...

 

thank you, this comment I do fancy.

if old cars are so good, why even bother make new ones :D 

I have checked the spare part availability of this model, I cant tell you how much I fell in love with this car when I got so muc I almost bought a T1R, especially as the price was a real bargain. 

a lot of parts, also belts do fit from the T2 etc... teamxrayusa has a lot of parts in stock still for this model as parts are interchangeable, so I am not worried to much about it, I also downloaded all manuals, setup up sheets and magazin articles from the xray website in case they shut it down once... also I do take care of all my cars. 

I will check with my club for any restrictions on electronic, I might go there with this car next year. They most often drive 1/5 class, so the track is fast.

I totally forgot about the motors, I know I've seen there were options to buy for example 13,5 stock motors (as in my F103) and modified 13,5T

Also I have experienced myself that a slower car is faster depending on track, my TA05 with crazy gearing like 64P 80T spur and 49T pinion, was plenty fast on the straight, but accelerating out of the corner with such high gearing was really slow, my buddy with his tb04 was faster with 64P 80T 37T, now I run in my TA05 48P 80T 30T and the car is much more agile.

Never less I am a fan of high gearing on F1 cars, mine has a FDR of 2,28. I setup the punch and dead band  and drag brake on my F1, by just 1 small tiny tap of the throttle trigger the car roles about 2m. I use only full throttle when I want to make distance or overtake, also the track is really high gripped, it is more likely the ball diff will spin loose then the tires, what makes me want to change to hard compound maybe.  

 

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Mod is great to break things. The amount of torque that motor will give the car is crazy :) As long as you know that things will snap and bend (Bulkheads mainly) and are prepared to buy new ones its fine. 

The diffs will need rebuilding at least every event, they could also need fixing between heats. You also need to ensure that you have a spool (Direct) setting in the front and one the centre pulley. Brushless Mod with one ways will just be a mess. The drive shafts will also need replacing quite often. They were never very good with the original Xrays.

As to flashing the esc, in reality you are just as well to use the Trackstar software anyway for Mod. 

 

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44 minutes ago, qatmix said:

Mod is great to break things. The amount of torque that motor will give the car is crazy :) As long as you know that things will snap and bend (Bulkheads mainly) and are prepared to buy new ones its fine. 

The diffs will need rebuilding at least every event, they could also need fixing between heats. You also need to ensure that you have a spool (Direct) setting in the front and one the centre pulley. Brushless Mod with one ways will just be a mess. The drive shafts will also need replacing quite often. They were never very good with the original Xrays.

As to flashing the esc, in reality you are just as well to use the Trackstar software anyway for Mod. 

 

that sounds very interesting, well that would giveme a very good reason to strip the car apart, I know bulkheads are discontinued (the alu parts) and I found spares on ebay. Hope I dont need more then 1 complete set for long time as I dont tend to race or drive it often. maybe 2-3 times a year on our real track or prepared surface. I bought the car for 30€ from a club, the car is already in a condition not to be raced. I want show purpose mostly but I want everything to match electronic wise.

 

This information sure will be taken to notic. It would make sense that a HK product can take the Trackstar softwar... any guidlines where to look for such information?

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