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Posted

So i just got my YR kit in for my rally Beetle and one of the front arm flanged bushings was at first i thought missing, instead it was stuck on a screw with the flange part busted off. Now i don't want to pack the whole kit back up and return it to wait another 2-6 weeks for one piece. 

I was hoping someone had one or at worst i can use the broken tube part and add a washer for the "flange"

Here is a intact one with some measurements:
39795172493_9c4c6b1730_b.jpg20190116_002223 by David Ashe, on Flickr

46760436661_9b78b42a15_b.jpg20190116_002358 by David Ashe, on Flickr

39795170213_efdd924f0d_b.jpg20190116_002436 by David Ashe, on Flickr

31818704227_67f844142b_b.jpg20190116_002313_001 by David Ashe, on Flickr

 

As you can imagine this has stopped me in my tracks, i know they make brass versions of these but im not sure the dimensions are right. These basically allow the screw to sit in the bearing. Only the front uses them.

Any help would be appreciated. I may contact YR directly and see if i can get a set of them. 

 

Posted

Well i jusr decided to stick what was left in the arm and it worked for now, Gonna add a couple small washers till i can get a replacement

Posted
2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

I have several YR flange tubes left over from M05 and TT01 builds.  Let me see if I have one that matches your measurements.  If I do, I can drop it in the post for you.

That would be amazing, thank you sir! Also lemme ask, do you think i should remove the suggested spacer due to my ball end hitting the inside of the wheel? I moved them one inward from the recommended and now i have super camber:

46764410221_3b203ef748_b.jpg2019-01-16_09-03-28 by David Ashe, on Flickr

will removing the spacer hurt it at all?

Posted

@Scipunk, I found the flange tubes I was thinking of tonight.  These are extras for the Yeah Racing suspension arms that come in their TT01 conversion set.  I have the following measurements:

  • Main tube OD = 4 mm (like yours)
  • Main tube ID = 3 mm (I think yours is too; it has to be to fit the hinge pin)
  • Flange OD = 6 mm
  • Flange thickness = 0.95 mm
  • Overall length = 6.55 mm (vs. your 4.55 mm)

If you want one or two of these, PM me your address and I'll drop a padded envelope in the mail.  You might be able to trim 2 mm off the overall length and make them work.

In terms of your rear suspension, did you use adjusters that are too long?  When I look at the YR instruction sheet and then the last photo, it seems like the plastic adjusters are quite long.  Are there shorter adjusters on the parts tree?  This might help you correct the camber.  They call for 29 mm length from center of adjuster to center of adjuster, but I would think that distance would have to be even shorter if you threaded a ball connector one hole inwards on the rear upright.  You might be able to ditch the 2 mm spacer on the rear upright, but I would do it only if the turnbuckle remained at least parallel to the lower suspension arm.  If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the upright, then the camber tends to go positive then negative as the suspension compresses.  If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the chassis, or is at least parallel to the lower suspension arm, then camber tends to go increasingly negative as the suspension compresses.  You generally don't want any positive camber as the suspension compresses.

Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:

@Scipunk, I found the flange tubes I was thinking of tonight.  These are extras for the Yeah Racing suspension arms that come in their TT01 conversion set.  I have the following measurements:

  • Main tube OD = 4 mm (like yours)
  • Main tube ID = 3 mm (I think yours is too; it has to be to fit the hinge pin)
  • Flange OD = 6 mm
  • Flange thickness = 0.95 mm
  • Overall length = 6.55 mm (vs. your 4.55 mm)

If you want one or two of these, PM me your address and I'll drop a padded envelope in the mail.  You might be able to trim 2 mm off the overall length and make them work.

In terms of your rear suspension, did you use adjusters that are too long?  When I look at the YR instruction sheet and then the last photo, it seems like the plastic adjusters are quite long.  Are there shorter adjusters on the parts tree?  This might help you correct the camber.  They call for 29 mm length from center of adjuster to center of adjuster, but I would think that distance would have to be even shorter if you threaded a ball connector one hole inwards on the rear upright.  You might be able to ditch the 2 mm spacer on the rear upright, but I would do it only if the turnbuckle remained at least parallel to the lower suspension arm.  If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the upright, then the camber tends to go positive then negative as the suspension compresses.  If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the chassis, or is at least parallel to the lower suspension arm, then camber tends to go increasingly negative as the suspension compresses.  You generally don't want any positive camber as the suspension compresses.

Awesome ill shoot ya a pm in a few!

Onto the second part. Those are the ones i was told to use as they have the hole in them for the hex to fit through. I measured and they are indeed 29 mm hole to hole, which as you said seems big if i had to put them into the middle hole which isn't where they ball end should be it should be at the outer most and i think this is the issue. The beetle uses 60D wheels which are what 1.5? This kit was made for the Jimny which uses 1.9. Does the TT01 use 1.9 wheels? Also funny part is if i just put the wheels on snug it's fine but the second i tighten them down full the diff nearly stops working. Did i use the wrong axles? i checked the numbers and the ones i used said they were for the rear but now i gotta go back and check...lol

I tried ditching the spacer but the thread from the ball stud hit the DCJ so i figured that was bad...lol 

I'll go check and PM ya my address

PM sent. 

Edited by Scipunk
Added info.

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