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40 minutes ago, nowinaminute said:

Well I finally finished stripping the whole thing and cleaning it and started putting it back together.

The instruction manual was eye opening! I didn't find it particularly easy to follow, some hardware was mislabeled, there were parts where it asked you to fit screws after the screw holes had been obstructed by previous steps or asked you to attach parts using screws that had already been installed several steps back etc! Definitely not the best Kyosho manual I've ever seen!

Kyosho manuals were terrible back then. My cousin used to build them all the time and always complained how horrible they were in the 80s

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I built a Double Dare for a customer and hated every second of it. I didn't like Kyosho manuals.  A buddy of mine loved his Double Dare though.

I had a Nitro Brute for a few months during a really humid summer. I think I was able to get that thing started and running less than 6 times. Nothing worse than 90% humidity, 95 degrees and the frustration of a nitro engine. 

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I got my one all back together. I have wheels and tyres ready to go on.

f9ONAKo.jpg

I might have accidentally brought some more stuff from this truck family though so watch this space lol.

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Well as per usual, my attention pinged off like a pinball or a fly in a shop window But I hope to have some updates soon.

I've fallen into that trap of acquiring a model and then noticing similar models that I never would have noticed before. 

As the result of a few bargains, I have made the following additions besides the Brute for less than £100

Corvette Hi Rider = pretty much complete but in need of work.

Double Dare = complete chassis but no body.

USA-1 = mostly complete, body missing bumpers and mirrors, spotlights broken off but not too bad for it's age.

And a set of proper wheels and tyres for the Big Brute.

I've somehow managed to go from owning none of these trucks to 4!

None are perfect but I think all have potential. I think I can get them all to a fair standard without much outlay. I just need to decide which ones to keep because 4 is ridiculous. The USA-1 and Corvette seem the obvious choices because they both have bodies and I would have an example each of the 2wd and 4wd but we'll see, maybe I'll be tempted to turn the double dare into a 4wd corvette.

I used to think if I was strict with budgets I would never end up acquiring too much gear but I've accepted now that it just makes me more efficient at finding loads of gear for small amounts of money. The way I scour eBay and Facebook ads is like the way the Terminator scans for Sarah Connor.

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One thing I can tell you for sure is that all 6 of the gearboxes I've acquired have the same tight spot! I'm starting to think it's something in the original moulds and the more I listen to then running on YouTube the more it makes sense lol.

It's the diff carrier gear that seems to be the problem, even just rolling it along a desk you can hear there's a lumpy part. Are they all like it to varying degrees? Or does the plastic warp with age? I even rebuilt two without ultrasonic cleaning the gears just in case it was that but it made no difference.

I'm not sure it would have much of a negative effect when it's up and running but it's a little annoying even by my standards and I'm usually about as anti OCD as you can get!

I'm still tempted to try and carefully sand down the gear a tiny bit just in the area where it's effected, it only seems to happen over the course of 2 or 3 teeth so if you could pinpoint it accurately it would probably have no negative effects, you'd only be turning an over tight mesh into a normal mesh.

I think I'll actually run them and see how they go before I take such measures though!

I'm going to start my own thread now so I'm not cluttering up Saito2s thread!

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I finally took the Brute out for a spin around the block!

It ran really well, the gearbox was a little noisy but nowhere near as rough as I was expecting. It seemed to handle fairly well too considering the archaic design, friction shocks and Haribo shock towers. And of course, it made easy work of short grass etc.

The only cause for concern was that these metal parts have worn out just like it happens on vehicles like the Boomerang...

20190713_183808.thumb.jpg.49bc2603e25557a849f30b01cedc37eb.jpg

I once saw someone use o rings to improve the slop in parts like this. I wonder if adding some between the ball joint and arm might work here? As it stands I have crazy camber going on.

Even if I can't fix that, It still drives ok from what I have seen so far, certainly well enough to have some fun in the rough stuff.

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On 7/13/2019 at 1:40 PM, nowinaminute said:

I wonder if adding some between the ball joint and arm might work here?

I wound up using a thick plastic from a bag, cut and fit between the ball and the socket in the arm. It wasn't perfect, but it got rid of some of the slack. If you get a chance, add some oil shocks. My Big Boss was quite bouncy in stock form. I added some Traxxas shocks. I limited the travel with tubing inside the shock. It worked fine since the Traxxas shock bodies were the same length as the stock Kyosho ones. Combined with some Proline Masher 2000s, the shocks really made the Boss sweet to drive.

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5 minutes ago, Saito2 said:

I added some Traxxas shocks.

X-maxx/t-maxx style ones? I have loads of them, someone was selling them cheap in america so i got some for my x-maxx clone, some for my clod and even my Lunchbox has some at the front with the DT03 arms lol.

For about £14 for 8 I couldn't resist a few sets, you can't get 4 Chinese no name ones for that!

 

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Yep, T/E-Maxx shocks. I did the same thing you did, grabbing up some for my Clods. Their stock length is more akin to a CVA "long" shock and at first glance, the Kyosho trucks seem more in line with a "short" Tamiya shock. The shock bodies turned out to be about the same length. I limited the piston rod length to match that of the original Kyosho ones and away I went. I will add, the travel has to be limited on the outside of the shock a good bit if I were to use the tall, stock Big Boss tires to keep them from hitting the body. I wound up using shorter, Masher 2k tires (probably closer to the Big Brute's diameter) which allowed for much more wheel travel. The truck is fairly close to a Blackfoot (with decent oil shocks) handling now (albeit with a bit sloppier steering).

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