Tamiya Spray-Works. Anybody using one of these?

[mongoose1983 3335]

I would like to check with you guys if there is anybody actually using one of these here.

I've been offered one, and I haven't found any consistent reviews on youtube to make a decistion. Are these any good for basic work?

You all have a good Thursday!

[waterbok 1282]

uh that's an old one, i have one but didn't get the chance to try it out yet.

If it comes cheaper than the price of the Airbrush not to much of a risk.

[mongoose1983 3335]

Thank you waterbok,

Well, by the looks I know I'm sold.

Still a comment on what it is like to spray paint with it would be nice

[No Slack 454]

I use the compressor from somewhere in the '90s. It  is very reliable. When using a battery pack you can use it everywhere. I  use it mainly for aeroplane (1/72)and car models (1/43) but also for touching up on real cars and for airbrushing freehand/masks. It was an expensive piece of equipment back in the day but the quality is amazing.

The airbrushes I use with the Tamiya compressor are a Badger 150 and a Revell Student, both double action.

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

All the photos so far in the thread are of the Spray-Work item number 74501, that was first released in 1988. I immediately got one back then, still use it and for about 12 of these 30+ years, I used it as a part of my work. I could say "professionally", but I don't like the meaning that implies to many people (as if I consider myself a professional airbrusher, which I don't).  But using it both for my personal and work-related tasks, means I have used my 74501 a LOT, and it still performs great.

Since 74501, Tamiya has released 14 more airbrushes. Some of these are much more expensive and much more refined and I have them all (plus all the Spray-Work compressors and accessories) simply because I collect the Spray-Work series, but I still use the 74501 a lot. It's fantastic value for money. Some snobs will claim it's useless, simply because they have seen the working principle of the compressor and know that it doesn't have an air tank and thus claim that the air is pulsating. And yes, if you direct the air stream against a sensitive part of your body (tongue for instance!), you will sense a slight pulsating, but I have never experienced that to be a problem. Also not when airbrushing for instance delicate camouflage pattern freehand on small scale plastic models (1/72 scale planes and armor for instance), where uneven pressure potentially is a problem. I'm not saying that the slight pulsating isn't possibly an issue in any circumstances, but I dare say that you will be hard pressed to find a situation where it causes a quality problem for your airbrushing. 

As for durability, the plastic parts can be cleaned with very aggressive solvents (for instance acetone and cellulose thinners) without causing any of the problems associated with solvents on plastics in general. The plastic doesn't "melt" and it doesn't get brittle when exposed to any of the solvents/thinners/cleaners I've used, so Tamiya obviously carefully chose the materials. The brass nozzles will see some wear even if used and cleaned carefully, but then again, spare parts are available and you can buy the airbrush itself (# 74531) at a very reasonable price. I think I have worn out 2 or 3 nozzles. If used and cleaned carefully, hardly anything else will get damaged or worn.  Even the most careful user will eventually bend the needle, but it's of course available as a separate spare part too. By the way, I use mine for the Tamiya acrylics, Tamiya enamels, Humbrol enamels, decanted Tamiya TS spray paint, cellulose paint and more, and it has worked great with all of them.

So yes, 74501 is a basic single action airbrush and professionals who do very delicate and complicated airbrushing way beyond plastic model kits, RC bodies and similar, surely can't cover all their needs with it, but for the vast majority of us, it's great value for money, very versatile, robust, easy to keep going and produces great results for anyone who care to learn the basics of airbrushing. Because, without the basic skills needed, even the best airbrush will cause a terrible result!

I have serviced many 74501's for customers. Mostly because of inadequate cleaning and lack of knowledge, and in communication with these customers, I know that the expectation that almost all new users of airbrushes have is that an airbrush will save them money because they can completely stop using rattle cans. Some may see that expectation fulfilled, but most will discover that an airbrush won't completely replace the rattle cans. I too still use a lot of rattle cans in "parallel" with airbrushes, so if the main purpose of buying an airbrush is to save money, you will most certainly be disappointed.   

As for power source, for occasional use, a normal 7.2V battery (1200mAh or more) is adequate, but if airbrushing a lot, a mains power source is recommended. Also, if I remember correctly, the instructions advice that the compressor shouldn't run more than one hour continuously (and then allowed to cool down). One hour is an extremely long time for most purposes and either way, I have never experienced overheating to be an issue and have never had to stop airbrushing to allow the compressor to cool down.

PS: If you want me to say something negative about 74501, the compressor is admittedly pretty loud. No problem at daytime, but when working during the night when everything else is totally silent (I often had strict deadlines when using it in my work), the compressor is subjectively extremely loud. Not an actual problem, but it can feel annoying. The other compressors in the Spray-Work series are just "humming" silently in comparison to the 74501, which due to its construction is louder and can be considered making a "clacking" sound in a direct comparison to the others.

[martinjpayne 273]

I bought one in '88 and it is still going strong today: the only thing I've needed to replace in this time is the air hose (with a couple of feet of rc fuel tube) and a needle. I still use it today for scale models and wargames miniatures, though I only use Tamiya acrylics. 

[mongoose1983 3335]

Thank you guys!! You are totally AWESOME!

[acprc 1443]

I purchased one years ago and used it for a while. My FAV was painted using it.

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=34478&id=4

 

 

[mongoose1983 3335]

For the equivalent of 37 good ol' Washingtons I finally made a deal with the guy. And this is my first Tamiya of the year!

The thing seems to have been used a lot. But it is working. If I have some time tomorrow I plan to check it all in detail.

Thanks again for sharing your experience.

You all have a good week!

 

[mongoose1983 3335]

Alright, I've made some power supply for it, and got to make the thing run (before dismantling it all so I can get to see what things I address in terms of getting it working properly).

First thing, the compressor runs. But it is bugging me the fact that it doesn't sounds as fast as the one in this video. I've opened it, checked the mechanism and everything is clean inside and working properly. I wonder what would be the reason for it to sound "slower"? I know this isn't the exact same model, but I wonder what would you guys say?

Then I got to check the airbrush. I put a lil bit of water on the cup and tested it. Didn't spray properly. And I believe I saw a bit of water coming down the hoss. I doubt this is "normal", is it? So I got to dismantle it all and see things inside. Of course I found out how dirty and abused the airbrush really is. But as always, I am excited and looking forward to restore and get things working good Here's some picture of this mess:

Now the Nozzle looks awfully dirty:

I wonder if dipping it in paint thinner would be enough to clean it?

Now here's the needle. The most fragile part of it all as I have read. The tip looks bad. I wonder if it still works with it being like this, or should I find a replacement?

And the rubber tube that goes through the airbrush looks like this:

As you can see there is remnants of red paint in it... What would be the reason for that? I believe the previous owner might have ruined it -I got this from a kid who did not seem to be that much in the hobby. Anyway, as I said I am in a good mood and want to try and restore this device as I am sure it is going to be useful to me.

So that's it with my find. Bit of a disaster seemingly. Wat do you guys think I should start doing. I mean, anything other than "throw it away and go check your Hobby store for a new model"

EDIT: I forgot to mention the shot orange o'ring on the connecting tip of the cup. I wonder if that causes some serious problem. I am going to buy a replacement for that one.

 

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

Hi Erich,

Check out Don's Airbrush Tips.  While he doesn't cover your Spray Works setup specifically, you may find some useful information there to help you with cleaning and repair.  In particular, he has some comments about ammonia-based cleaners reacting with the brass underneath the chrome plating.  He also has some thoughts on straightening bent needles.  You may need to replace most of the O-rings in this airbrush given its age and neglect.  He also has a few pages on operating concepts (how air and paint mix) and safety.  All of his writings should give you some ideas on how to restore this to excellent working order.

[No Slack 454]

Use an ultrasonic cleaner with suitable mild cleaning fluid. You will be amazed that the parts will look as new after cleaning.

The needle is a bit more difficult. Maybe roll it with care over the tip or better replace it. The damaged tip now causes uneven spray.

The compressor in the video sounds exactly as mine. Try to run it with a 7.2V racing pack and listen if it sounds ok.

Edit.

The needle looks standard. Try a Badger or Revell needle if you can't find a Tamiya needle.

[waterbok 1282]

If you are after parts and need help pm me, here in Germany Seidel has a lot of spares for the Tamiya airbrush systems.

[mongoose1983 3335]

@speedy_w_beans Great website indeed. All the info in detail step by step as you said, thanks!

@No Slack Unfortunately there is no ultrasonic cleaner in here, BUT I am going to check how it runs with the battery pack instead.

@waterbok Thank you so much! Let me see how I go cleaning and rebuilding this so I get to see what I would need.

You all have a good Wednesday!

[waterbok 1282]

Mmm Seidel got some stuff listed but it's not available at the moment.

.3 nozzle, needle and cap.

[Nicadraus 6199]

I had that and used it for probably 3 years before the compressor conked out. So I'm now using a better compressor and I installed a pressure regulator so I can adjust the psi. Although I'm still using the same air brush and bought another one because it does the job right for me. I use it for painting models (diecast metal and plastic), small turntable parts, and anything that needs painting jobs. Just always make sure to clean the airbrush parts thoroughly every after use. Do not soak the 8 ring in thinner for a long time. 

[mongoose1983 3335]

23 hours ago, No Slack said:

Try to run it with a 7.2V racing pack and listen if it sounds ok.

That was it! My power supply is 6volts but it only goes that far for 500 Mah, so perhaps that's the problem? With a fully charged 1800 Mah  7,2v battery pack the compressor works proper and vigorously. I can say it is in perfect conditions judging from my testings today. One reason to be happy

Here's how rotten the paint cup's o'ring really is. I will need a replacement for it. I wonder what is the exact size of it so I can find a replacement.

Finally, I left the nozzle, needle and all the bronze bits submerged in thinner. Of course I removed all rubbers and plastics, only the metal bits. They've been there for about an hour now, I wonder how long would be enough? I will leave soon for work and will return in five hours, so that is pretty much what I am doing with the airbrush bits now. Hopefully tonight after cleaning the parts I can get them alright and ready to work again. Even if not perfectly.

Any ideas or comments are welcome  

 

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

The cracked O-ring you show looks like a typical Tamiya part; take a look at this Japanese O-ring size chart.  About half way down is a series of P-3, P-4, P-5, etc. O-rings with dimensions.  You might be able to take some measurements of that old O-ring and match it up to a new P-something part just based on dimensions.  A lot of the O-Rings used in CVA dampers are P-3 type parts.  Also, maybe a local supply company has O-rings that are not JIS but are close enough for something like that paint bottle.

JIS O-Ring Size Chart

[mongoose1983 3335]

6 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

A lot of the O-Rings used in CVA dampers are P-3 type parts

Thanks Paul! I think I have one or two of those somewhere. I'll let you know later if it works or not.