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ThunderDragonCy

Anyone race at Worksop Schumacher Indoor Cup?

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Never thought I would be tempted to race, but I saw a video of the track last night and it looks awesome! It's only 40 mins away from me and I would happily go just to drive and come last! Anyone else race there? Got any thoughts? I can't seem to find the info on exact racing regs but they seem to run 4wd and 2wd mod and vintage. I have an 8.5 motor doing nothing so although not as powerful as the top guys I figured I could chuck that in the TRF211 3GL and see how I go. 

 

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I think you'll find an 8.5T in a 2wd buggy is plenty, especially in mod where you can add ESC timing. Over here indoor is 10.5T blinky for 2wd and 8.5T 4wd which has cars wheel standing. 

At my outdoor club where mod is open most seem to run 10.5T anyway. A number of people run 17.5t blinky and then enter the same car in mod, sometimes adding boost but not always. Thats low grip though where more power just means more spinning.

So definitely go along and have fun!

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@Jonathon Gillham Thanks for the tips. Makes a lot of sense. The 211 is running a 10.5 4000kv motor anyway and it's the MMM version with 11-20 deg timing on the end bell. Its geared 7.8 at the moment and I can barely spend any time at full throttle even on the outdoor astro track I run at so what you say makes sense, especially on low grip like that. With the ESC timing up its fast enough! My 8.5 motor is the earlier 3-0 with 0-10 deg on the motor and 4400kv. It was pretty fast in my DB01R but as you say I can't imagine putting the power down is going to help with that motor. Maybe as its low grip I could go old school and use the TRF201? Rear motor! 

 

Think I'll message their Facebook group and see what's what. Cheers. 

 

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@ThunderDragonCy the rear motor may be the way to go. At my club most of us run mid motor standup trans. You see the odd rear motor come along and they do well too though, but I think mid motor has the edge. Thats the rearmost mid motor though, I haven't seen a laydown trans there. I run 3 gear standup with a sideaways shorty so move the battery fwd or back depending on grip levels, which changes throughout the day.

A guy does ok with an RC10 worlds rere (yep, original one) and another runs a Losi XXX in 2wd mod too and he does as well in 2wd mod as he does in 4wd with a modern buggy.

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@Jonathon Gillham Good info. I have a 3 gear standup gearcase on the drawing board for my TRF211 to try and make it a little more friendly to drive. My TRF201 rear motor is so easy to handle compared to my TRF211 3 gear laydown though. The laydown is quick when it's right, but I'd like something a little easier to get on with. I guess to start with I can see if I can fit in visiting the next race and take both cars. 

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I struggle to drive mid engine cars as well.  That said my local is black carpet and if you want to be fast rear engine has become very tough. I was never very competitive to begin with.  I liked when they had astro turf, it was a bit more forgiving.  Black carpet has basically made me feel like I need on road touring car precision which I simply do not have.  Oh well.  

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I race there and all I can say is that its fast. I race a cat L1 with a 5.5t motor and get lapped  lol. In the vintage class I race a top force evolution with a 7.5t motor and it holds it own. But it's very fast and well organised. Everyone is helpful but as for tamiya's....... it's just me!

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A couple of the Scottish guys at the club head down and say its worth the 8hr round trip! 

Am I right in saying it's the Schumacher  honeycomb tyres that are the control tyre @Turbotom , especially designed for that surface? 

Stock and Mod racing isn't that much of a thing in the UK, generally just 2wd and 4wd (plus maybe truck and vintage), 2wd 6.5t - 8.5t and 4wd 5.5t - 6t? (Everyone I know runs a 5.5t or a 6t when it's wet) , but you can run whatever turn motor,  with however much boost as you want. 2 or 3 classes means higher numbers in races , top 10 in qualifying are in the A final,  next 10 are the B etc.

Apart from honeycomb tyres, I'm guessing the usual rules apply, charge in a Lipo charge bag, charge to 4.2v (if liHv) 2s hardcase etc 

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