Dynastorm re'rebuild.

[ralphee 261]

Took delivery of this lady the other day. I actually owned and restored this car some years back, sold it, it underwent some additional mods, and was never used, so I'm happy to take ownership of it again once more.

Now I'll get to giving it a good clean up. It's fully fitted with Nimrod parts, as well as some parts from Orb racing, as well as a TR15 trans housing.The damper springs i believe were Hicap option parts?

Lee

[GTodd 959]

Man that thing is awesome! I REGRET SELLING MINE!!!

[ralphee 261]

Guys

Any bona fide findings on what shafts work well with the Nimrod V3 wide rear arms? For use with star dish too.

Any pointers really appreciated, don't mind other brands in the metric system.

Distance from bearing to outdrive needs to be in the 90mm bracket it seems?

Lee

[Collin 1292]

Did you already get trough the big Dyna Storm topic in here? I think they have written about the shafts...

 

[ralphee 261]

Didn't seem definitive in running original wheels Colin. I've read so much and, Top Force UJs coupled with hubs work? A bit of confliction so was just seeing if a more concrete answer was out there really.

Lee

[Collin 1292]

I dont know about Topf Force parts ect... and I can not answer your question but I think to remember reading about this somewhere in here...

 

[ralphee 261]

Made a racer savvy rear guard today. Can't find a D sprue and won't be running the Nimrod part, so put idle hands to use.

Lee

[ralphee 261]

 

[Collin 1292]

Thats the way I like! Might be even better  then the alloy version. How stiff is it? Didi you heated it up for shaping?

Btw. I am awaiting some high strenght alloy to build some TRF211x like rear guards. Also I have a huge lot of E,K & Y trees in the pipeline waiting for delivery.

 

[ralphee 261]

Collin.

Yes you just heat gun it till it's plyable, then form to shape. I used to make YZ10 front bumpers in 3mm, this is 2mm and super strong and rigid. It's mounted to a tapped M3 brass bar.

I was wondering how a 3mm Kydex front kick plate would work out too, if I made a set degree jig? 3mm kydex is seriously rigid and tough. Thoughts?

Lee

[Collin 1292]

My thoughts? Do the jig and go for it! We can complain results after.

[ralphee 261]

Collin, I'll get on it buddy and let you know. What should be the consensus, the std kick, or 30 degree?

Furthermore, location, as an undermount to the chassis, or as per kit?

Lee

[Collin 1292]

30° is the standard kickup. With any other angle the upperdeck/lower deck and bulkhead does not fit together any more. I think undermount to the chassis is really good thing because of protecting the fiber chassis.

Only the steering need to be spaced up by 1.5mm, if the kickup moves... 

[GTodd 959]

After the Astute is done I need another one of these! If I can get one for less than a new SA I’ll do it!

[ralphee 261]

Collin, superb mate. I'll rig up a jig and pull some 3mm kydex forms, incorporate the bumper, and go for a lower mounting. Yeah just the steering to shim, so no big deal.

Todd, my SA mods come after this car lol, were doing it in opposites haha, good times, hope you find one. Be nice to have another release of it to refresh the spares offerings.

Lee

[ralphee 261]

Toying around with some more Kydex. Still much to do and refining it is a must, but might me worth a go. It's at this stage as rigid, if not more than the Shapways part, this will mount as per the 211x style. A 3mm variant may well be attempted too.

Lee

[ralphee 261]

Ok. So the first 3mm Kydex front kick up complete.

This will mount under the  chassis as per the 211x design. Formed at 30 degrees, and indestructible. Let's see how it all fits.

Lee

[ralphee 261]

Still a few bugs to iron out. The bend for the kick up, using 3mm Kydex is critical. Too soft a bend and it affects the pivot block seat. A V3 is almost finished which should wrap this part up finally. Then I just need to create a spacer between the upper deck and pivot block to allow it to seat.

Been a learning curve, much harder than 2mm due to the thicker Kydex being trickier to bend so acute, but worth it I hope you can see the rear pivot block screws in the bend here, which is incorrect, hence a lot of fuss on creating that perfect kick angle.

Lee

[Collin 1292]

Spacer is needed. Here on my DB211x I have used a 2mm carbon sheet but I would need 2,5mm. Somehow I need to get a bit up with the bulkhead. This kickup is "just" a piece with one bend but everything is running together there...

[ralphee 261]

2mm seems to bridge my gap well buddy. So I'll cut a nice slotted spacer from Kydex now, round it off to look pretty on top of the Orb bulkhead.

V3 all sewn up now and all lines up well. Wasn't easy making this in 3mm, much harder than the 2mm

 

[ralphee 261]

Starting to look like a buggy again. Dynaleven....DynaX a total hybrid and Xbreed lol

Lee

[ralphee 261]

[Collin 1292]

Ok, wht I think is that the bulkhead works like a friction damper for impacts from the front. What else should the slot-holes in the upper deck should be for? Also the gap of 1-2mm to the little horns of the bulkhead...
I have a bit of a problem to get it right together with my alloy kick-up. Yours looks already fine.

The TRF211x does not have the slot-holes, they are just drilled and it seems like the screws come down vertical, not as seen here and with TR15 and Dyna Blaster...

Great work Lee!

 

[ralphee 261]

Collin

I think the slot is just a lazy way of making the screw pass through easily. Machining a hole at an angle would have added a lot of costs maybe to the original design?

Yes the 211x piece does indeed thread in vertical, which IMO is a better idea.

The parts all together now feel so solid, the front end is very very rigid, and will be super strong.

I do have an alloy pivot block being made so that should, one hopes, bullet proof the front end now, and add some weight too.

Lee

[ralphee 261]

Not far away now.