Dynastorm re'rebuild.

[ralphee 171]

Took delivery of this lady the other day. I actually owned and restored this car some years back, sold it, it underwent some additional mods, and was never used, so I'm happy to take ownership of it again once more.

Now I'll get to giving it a good clean up. It's fully fitted with Nimrod parts, as well as some parts from Orb racing, as well as a TR15 trans housing.The damper springs i believe were Hicap option parts?

Lee

[GTodd 247]

Man that thing is awesome! I REGRET SELLING MINE!!!

[ralphee 171]

Guys

Any bona fide findings on what shafts work well with the Nimrod V3 wide rear arms? For use with star dish too.

Any pointers really appreciated, don't mind other brands in the metric system.

Distance from bearing to outdrive needs to be in the 90mm bracket it seems?

Lee

[Collin 184]

Did you already get trough the big Dyna Storm topic in here? I think they have written about the shafts...

 

[ralphee 171]

Didn't seem definitive in running original wheels Colin. I've read so much and, Top Force UJs coupled with hubs work? A bit of confliction so was just seeing if a more concrete answer was out there really.

Lee

[Collin 184]

I dont know about Topf Force parts ect... and I can not answer your question but I think to remember reading about this somewhere in here...

 

[ralphee 171]

Made a racer savvy rear guard today. Can't find a D sprue and won't be running the Nimrod part, so put idle hands to use.

Lee

[ralphee 171]

 

[Collin 184]

Thats the way I like! Might be even better  then the alloy version. How stiff is it? Didi you heated it up for shaping?

Btw. I am awaiting some high strenght alloy to build some TRF211x like rear guards. Also I have a huge lot of E,K & Y trees in the pipeline waiting for delivery.

 

[ralphee 171]

Collin.

Yes you just heat gun it till it's plyable, then form to shape. I used to make YZ10 front bumpers in 3mm, this is 2mm and super strong and rigid. It's mounted to a tapped M3 brass bar.

I was wondering how a 3mm Kydex front kick plate would work out too, if I made a set degree jig? 3mm kydex is seriously rigid and tough. Thoughts?

Lee

[Collin 184]

My thoughts? Do the jig and go for it! We can complain results after.

[ralphee 171]

Collin, I'll get on it buddy and let you know. What should be the consensus, the std kick, or 30 degree?

Furthermore, location, as an undermount to the chassis, or as per kit?

Lee

[Collin 184]

30° is the standard kickup. With any other angle the upperdeck/lower deck and bulkhead does not fit together any more. I think undermount to the chassis is really good thing because of protecting the fiber chassis.

Only the steering need to be spaced up by 1.5mm, if the kickup moves... 

[GTodd 247]

After the Astute is done I need another one of these! If I can get one for less than a new SA I’ll do it!

[ralphee 171]

Collin, superb mate. I'll rig up a jig and pull some 3mm kydex forms, incorporate the bumper, and go for a lower mounting. Yeah just the steering to shim, so no big deal.

Todd, my SA mods come after this car lol, were doing it in opposites haha, good times, hope you find one. Be nice to have another release of it to refresh the spares offerings.

Lee

[ralphee 171]

Toying around with some more Kydex. Still much to do and refining it is a must, but might me worth a go. It's at this stage as rigid, if not more than the Shapways part, this will mount as per the 211x style. A 3mm variant may well be attempted too.

Lee