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The Kit Builder's Kit: Grastens and the Tamiya Bruiser (58519)

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With the battery strapped in and the wheels bolted on, our work on the mechanical side is done:

1zeicep.jpg

The chassis is the obvious highlight of this build – as it is for many of my projects – but now, I must move onto bodywork in the spring. There will be plenty of it, with my plans for a custom bed and more work on the interior.

I can still enjoy my progress so far, though:

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Sometimes, I connect the battery just to shift through the gears…

Parked next to the 1:10 Ferrari 312T3 I am also working on, this truck is monstrous!

25iaz3b.jpg

With the spare screws from assembly thus far, I was able to mock up the body and interior for fit:

1zya1oo.jpg

The interior piece is both shorter and shallower than expected. It might be too much effort to drop the footwell, after all, though there is lots of space to do it:

4t9hz5.jpg

Dropping the footwell may also be insufficient for modelled lower legs on the driver figure; there may not be enough room for the feet, unless I can extend the footwell under the dashboard to stop short of the mounting points for the interior, at the base of the windshield.

Any effort at interior door panels will also need to address this gap between interior and shell:

jrr7ms.jpg

And with that, we set it aside and wait for bodywork:

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This Bruiser will be a challenge to paint and finish, too. In the meantime, I can say I have truly realized a dream in building up the chassis, and am happy to have done it at least once in this lifetime! It has been a wonderful and immersive build – I will now sit around and wait for:

- the Futaba 4YWD Attack 2.4 GHz radio and receiver

- the 4 x 4 slipper clutch set for the transmission

- the custom 1:10 Hilux step-side bed and universal tail-lights

- the 1:8 figure I have ordered for the interior (will it fit?)

Once accounted for, I will be looking forward to more to report!

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have you thought about a steering servo converstion to up front instead of the mec box

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On 2/14/2019 at 7:26 AM, topforcein said:

have you thought about a steering servo converstion to up front instead of the mec box

Not yet - I have not even run the truck, which is when I will figure out if I am discontent with the steering.

A special delivery for:

2uz31bp.jpg

I had ordered a Futaba 4YWD Attack radio and receiver, as well as a 4 x 4 Slipper Clutch kit. I finally had the time to work with them, and quickly prepared everything:

2vbramu.jpg

“Quickly” does not describe the ensuing process of rigging up the radio and installing the slipper clutch, as we will see. A lot of it had to do with my expectations for the radio, and one lost bearing…

I set up the Futaba 4YWD’s supplied 4-channel receiver with few problems:

28ur5tw.jpg

The radio itself left a good initial impression. With its array of switches and sliders, the large radio really felt like an old 1980s device, but the capacious battery bay only needed four AA batteries; the rest was blanked. It may be a testament to the efficiency of current electronics, since the radio uses 2.4 GHz technology in a case that clearly accommodated frequency-crystal-type internals. Curiously, the bay separated the batteries into two pairs – one on each side – instead of clustering them together.

This resemblance between the 2.4 GHz version of the Futaba Attack and its crystal-type relatives should have tipped me off that the radio would not have end-point adjustment for the servos.

One thing I was excited about was the inclusion of an on/off switch with the radio – maybe I could hook up the ESC and have something to stick onto the mechanism box lid! Alas, it failed to work, with the Axial ESC not recognizing the switch. I am unsure how some in the crawler community break multiple on/off switches in their models, but I will get used to a lack of one for the sake of the Axial ESC’s drag brake and LED output; ultimately, those are more important to me.

From there, the slipper clutch was assembled, beginning with these parts:

etipm0.jpg

The slipper consists of 3 plates and 2 washers between the discs. The locking nut over the clutch spring was set to roughly 1 mm of clearance from the top threads, which is recommended by the instructions.

The slipper sits inside a clutch housing and a dog gear:

f0nrr6.jpg

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Once assembled, it is intended to replace the part known as Planetary Holder A, which is part gear and, well, part planetary holder. Retrofitting it to the Bruiser’s gearbox involves reinstalling the planetary gears onto the slipper clutch – entailing, of course, removing the gearbox from the chassis:

mm7e6b.jpg

Removal required: taking out the front body mount (2 screws), detaching the gearbox (2 screws), releasing the propeller shafts from the axles (2 grub screws), unplugging the motor cables, and undoing the ball connector on the shift rod (the hardest step!). I was about to find out how maintenance-friendly (or unfriendly) the Bruiser could be!

6ss960.jpg

It was initially unclear that the other components outside of the gearbox in the following photo were also to be replaced by the slipper clutch. Another read of the instructions confirmed the substitutions:

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I thought I had everything reassembled, until I figured out that the “leftover” 1150 bearing was in fact supposed to be inside the housing that I closed up. In the bearing’s absence, the gearbox refused to shift into second, making distressing crunching noises as it bound itself…

It took two partial teardowns of the gearbox to figure out I was missing the 1150 bearing! Once back in, I could evaluate the performance of the Futaba 4YWD properly:

b621s5.jpg

My initial impressions of the radio gear’s performance was still poor: coming from the efficient 3-channel setup that I was using for tuning, this dedicated 4-channel equipment only served to slow down and add ambiguity to each shift. Without end-point adjustment, I could not look to prevent excessive wear on the shifting and steering servos, either.

However, the 4YWD Attack is claimed to be designed for the 3-speed trucks – Tamiya even has their own rebranded version for this purpose – and as such, end-point adjustment proved largely unnecessary. The shifting servo only buzzed if the shifter was moved without any wheel rotation, and after some practice they were silent at their limits of travel as gears were selected. The steering servo showed some signs of excessive travel, but did not strain too hard at full lock in either direction.

The purpose-built nature of the 4YWD is accentuated by the inclusion of an adhesive round sheet, cut into the shape of a shift gate, for use with the throttle stick. This part appears compulsory for safe operation of the shifting servo on these stick radios.

In short: all my misgivings and flaws that I perceived were for nothing once the radio was in. I still think the old 3-channel setup performed better, and using its 3-position auxiliary switch minimized the time spent off-throttle. The trade-off, though, is a control system that captures more of the feeling of the full-size thing, and for a scale truck like the Bruiser, this is worthwhile.

As for the slipper clutch: that will prove itself in the field!

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i use the same 4ywd for my grand hauler but i will be swopping it for my spectrum dx6 when i get around to getting a receiver as i already run my bruiser and merc truck on that so it makes sence to swop over to that as well once set up the dx6 is easyer to use 

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An important arrival in the mail today:

206geb6.jpg

The custom step-side bed has arrived from the Czech Republic.

While the Bruiser has been the model I have dreamed about, that dream came with the realization that I was very unlikely to ever own an original 3-speed model. I did appreciate the aesthetic of the Hilux 4 x 4 Pickup, however, and knowing that the Bruiser uses the same main cab, I have always wanted a step-side bed on mine. It would help to address the wide rear track, compared to the front, as well.

However, the original Hilux 4 x 4 mounts the rear bed separately from the cab, and that rear bed is filled in completely. This is necessary for covering the mechanism box on the original model. The Bruiser’s chassis design allows for a slightly-dropped bed, so even if I did find an original Hilux rear bed, it would require a significant amount of modification to fit. For a part that costs more than several Tamiya kits (and some combined!), even I would balk at that.

Into the void stepped Loops Model, from the Czech Republic. Through their RC 4 x 4 online shop and eBay storefront, this company makes custom bodies and accessories for the RC scale crawler crowd. One of their products is a Hilux step-side deep bed.

The deep bed will not sit well over the Bruiser’s mechanism box. The cost, while precious, is less of a deterrent to consider modifications to fit! I figured I would address that once the bed arrives.

A member of the RCCrawler forum has already attempted this successfully:

JUz7vOAh.jpg

8z1SWpNh.jpg

However, his post and photos do not make it clear how he was able to execute it.

Onto the bed that was delivered: the pieces are the bed and a rear panel that fills in the gap in the rear cab. It also provides a place to attach the bed, using a combination of glue and three screws.

The seller advises that additional finishing is required for assembly. I saw minimal pin holes in the moulding, and the only issue I have had to deal with so far is flash in the screw holes. Some of it was thicker than in others, but eventually it was all cleared for some M3 screws and nuts.

I did a test-fit to ensure this was the only issue, and it looks good:

33mbvqt.jpg

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The three screws I am using at the moment are solely for test-fit purposes. I will source some better ones for final assembly:

123qd82.jpg

I ordered a set of Loops Models’ universal tail light buckets, having seen this additional blank panel on the rear end of the bed:

2dweo0j.jpg

I could replace it with a 3D-printed plastic type from TC member simensays, or even one with LEDs from TC’s Pintopower and his AmPro Engineering shop. For now, I will focus on resolving the conflict with the mechanism box – with that, I cannot fit the shell onto the chassis.

There are a few solutions I can think of immediately:

- remove the rear bed floor entirely and transpose the Bruiser’s rear bed (cut down, since the custom bed is narrower) at a depth that agrees with the mechanism box

- cut a big hole to fit whatever part of the mechanism box protrudes into the deep bed, and drill holes for the rear body mounts – I consider this, because the sight of a mechanism box lid sticking into the bed does not bother me, and if it did, I can improvise using scale objects in the back

- modify the mechanism box – I am not a fan of this particular solution!

- cut a smaller hole to fit the on/off switch, use tubing underneath the bed to build a rear body mount, and modify the front end accordingly to allow the shell to sit higher on the chassis

The first and second suggestions appeal to me, with the second one getting more support. That particular option would allow me to leave the stock rear bed untouched, either to sell on or use later. The pertinent issue would be measuring and cutting precisely what I need removed, and nothing I do not – as in a number of my other builds, measuring is not yet a strong suit when it comes to scratch-building or alterations!

I will deliberate on this further. What I do know is that I intend to use primer on both sections of the body, as they are made from different plastics. The step-side bed is quite a bit heavier than the stock piece, and primer before paint can reduce any colour discrepancies between the two.

It is important to note that the custom part feels to be made from a stiffer plastic than the stock body, so cutting any part of it will require more effort. I will consider this as I resolve the bed clearance.

The bed modifications will either prepare or discourage me from attempting similar modifications to the cockpit – one big cutting job might be enough for me and this build!

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I was on a mission to fit a custom step-side deep bed to:

2uz31bp.jpg

Following the success I enjoyed with my Ferrari 312T3 build, in which I designed and constructed a cockpit from styrene sheets:

2rnto5u.jpg

I was clearly in the right mindset to attempt to modify the bed, the Bruiser, or both!

To fit the bed to the chassis, I had several different solutions. Eventually, I elected to pursue the option that foresaw a fair amount of cutting, but also allowed the shell to sit more or less at the stock height. This would be to cut a mechanism-box-sized hole in the bed, and drill holes for the rear body mount.

The Ferrari 312T3 came in when it was time to decide how to approach this solution: like the build I undertook for the F1 car, I traced the relevant dimensions for my project and recorded them on paper. Unlike on the Ferrari, I did not use a cardboard prototype; this was only a few cuts, as opposed to a new part built from sheets.

Once dimensions were recorded, I cut some guide lines on the underside of the bed. I used the straightest straight-edge I could find, which was a metal ruler out of which I had already carved slivers. I still trusted it more than the plastic rulers I had on hand… I measured with the still-legible plastic ones, and cut with the metal one, ending up with a mechanism box traced on the bed’s underside.

While I was at it, I cut two small marks for the rear body mount posts, using measurements taken from the posts themselves. Many careful minutes with some very sharp objects brought me here:

15u34m.jpg

The bed was made from a stiff, thick plastic – I tried an X-Acto knife, a box cutter, a panel scriber, and a Dremel with a cutting wheel, and all of these were unsuccessful in cutting the desired hole in the bed. My pin vise drill set even made tiny holes in the corners of the area to be removed, to facilitate the cuts.

e6opxy.jpg

I finally prevailed with a hot knife: an X-Acto knife blade on the end of a soldering iron. This tool had been unused since my Wheelie Rally project, and still had melted yellow plastic from when I was chopping up the donor shell for that build. It was difficult to remove then, but once heated up again, the blade quickly shed the residue on the first cut.

Even then, cutting the bed was not quick work. I did not even manage to cut it all the way, stopping short of cutting the edge at the rear of the bed. By then, it was already heavily-scored from the assortment of other tools I used, so it took a few still-heavy bends to finish the job.

Loops Model's parts quality has impressed, but I dread thinking about modifying another one of their parts! The plastic for this step-side bed is just a bit difficult to work with.

The first issue for fitting the bed was with its floor; the second one was with the rear body mount. I had to either cut down the stock body mount or make up a new one, to get the shell to sit level on the chassis. With the depth of the bed, the rear of the body would be sitting visibly higher than the front. To accomplish this levelling act, I needed body posts that left 25 mm of space between the chassis and the deep bed’s floor, and found these parts to achieve just that:

k9c3z7.jpg

Amazingly, I had two F103 antenna tube holders. They are machine-threaded on one end and 20 mm long, so they can work as long spacers for the 25 mm screws. As 2.4 GHz receivers do not have significant antenna lengths, the mounts have been made redundant – until now!

Everything went together like this:

29zvb6f.jpg

The blue TRF parts were replaced with taller black plastic body mounts, which added the 5 mm I needed on top of the 20 mm antenna holders. I know for a fact that, like those antenna holders, I have only two of the plastic body mounts, so I was relieved to find both of them for this project.

For all my perceived difficulty in this task, the cut material from the bed came out relatively cleanly:

m64j6.jpg

The last task was to chop up the battery tray – something I really did not want to do – to allow the narrow cab rear panel to sit comfortably on the chassis. I ended up slashing off the two corners next to the mechanism box; combined with some material removed from the rear panel itself at the bottom, I got the shell to sit at a satisfactory height without interference from the battery. It would have come at the expense of an eye if not for safety glasses – that plastic is stiff, thick, and brittle!

It took me an entire afternoon, but in the end, my Bruiser gets a step-side bed:

2n196iw.jpg

The cuts were not clean or precise, so the mechanism box is not a tight fit in the pickup bed. It bothers me slightly, but really, I doubt it will be carrying anything small enough to be lost in there. I much prefer the accessibility of the ESC and receiver in this configuration:

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The tires still clear the rear arch:

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At full compression, the shell still stays clear at the rear – I might need to work on the front, though…

Overall, the result is not particularly neat, but it is surprisingly effective:

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Parts Bag E will be next; I can now begin fitting hardware to the shell, meaning I can also find three matching screws and nuts to use for the bed. In its current state, I could even start to paint the shell – once the weather cooperates!

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I was going to say, that would have been my solution too - cut the base of the [drop] bed away so it clears what's underneath, and not compromise the overall stance of the vehicle - it's looking fantastic with that rear end btw.

You can always fabricate some interior panels for the bed (wood!) and/or include some scale accessories - tool-boxes, coolers etc. to help hide the fact the receiver box and switch is there?

Dang, you've tempted me to build a [full-width] HiLux with a step-side bed now too!

Keep it up!

Jenny x

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On 2/26/2019 at 2:05 PM, JennyMo said:

I was going to say, that would have been my solution too - cut the base of the [drop] bed away so it clears what's underneath, and not compromise the overall stance of the vehicle - it's looking fantastic with that rear end btw.

You can always fabricate some interior panels for the bed (wood!) and/or include some scale accessories - tool-boxes, coolers etc. to help hide the fact the receiver box and switch is there?

Dang, you've tempted me to build a [full-width] HiLux with a step-side bed now too!

Keep it up!

Jenny x

And I look forward to seeing yours ;) Especially given the JennyMo scale detailing!

As the Bruiser’s shell appears to be a complicated assembly, compounded by the addition of a customized step-side bed, I saw fit to begin on:

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This is the parts bag that comprises all the hardware needed to build the body. The variety of screws, nuts, and other hardware will affix most of these to the bodyshell:

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As everything is unpainted, I am aware that I will need to disassemble everything before paint goes on – except for the main bodyshell. The perceived complexity of the body has encouraged me to build it up, made possible by the fact that almost everything attaches to it with screws. The primary exceptions are turn signals, which are glued; in this test build, they are omitted. They will need to be painted in X-26 Clear Orange, anyway, before they go onto the truck.

I did my best to cut out all the parts I thought I needed for this “dry run” of the shell:

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There are a few curiosities that I missed in the lead-up to Parts Bag E – for instance, the rear window:

2zfiy5j.jpg

The stock Bruiser uses the moulded-slats part on the left, which fits on the back of the camper extension on the rear cab. As such, the Bruiser has no need for a rear window, yet one is issued with the windows and windshield. There is no mention of it in the manual that simply references “T-parts 19225139” and illustrates only the windshield and windows, moulded as one piece.

It appears that the transparent rear window is the same shape as the space the windshield and windows part leaves when fixed to the cab, but it does not fit. This is likely due to the custom Loops Model cab rear panel I am using. Said rear panel does have a flange for mounting a clear piece of plastic, so this will be the approach I take for the rear window in place of the unannounced piece in the kit.

(Update: the same part is announced in the Hilux High-Lift kit, where it serves as both the cab rear panel and the rear window. This means it fills the rear of the cab instead of the window assembly, which explains why it did not fit the latter – on the High-Lift, the plastic surrounding the window is painted in the truck’s body colour!)

The moulded-slats part is just slightly too wide to fit the window opening on the custom rear cab panel, so I will proceed with a clear sheet of plastic. The slats were an odd look for the cab, anyway.

There is also fine text on the headlight lenses:

juzogg.jpg

Not a curiosity, per se, but interesting! The same goes for the 1.6 mm screws for the turn signals:

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It is a testament to the kit’s clever design and excellent manual that the parts in any one bag can be dumped into a single tray and picked out correctly over a build. Screws in different diameters are simple to identify, and screws with the same diameter but different lengths are either finished in their own colours. In the case of 1.6 mm screws and 2 mm screws, the former use hex wrenches to the latter’s Phillips screwdrivers, and the distinctive head shapes make them easy to distinguish.

It all encouraged me to get going on the body, with or without paint!

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The side-marker buckets went on after some fiddling. The manual emphasizes the importance of not overtightening the screws, and seeing how the lenses will fix to the buckets, this makes sense:

1jrnn9.jpg

I praised the use of 1.6 mm screws for the turn signals, but cursed having to put them in – turning the standard hexagonal wrench under the hood of the shell was tricky.

I looked forward to the front end, feeling the truck with the shell alone was lacking a “face.” Building up the grille, bumper, and headlights would go a long way toward identifying the truck as a Bruiser:

291e1sl.jpg

Headlight lenses were already snapped in at this point. I regret not using glue as directed, for the lenses rattle around in the buckets. However, I am confident they will be staying put. I would have used either craft glue or sought out my special canopy glue, though the latter may have already set from old age…

Despite the bumper turn indicator buckets being clearly marked “L” and “R” on their backsides, I still put them in the wrong order! Maybe it was too obvious? I got it sorted in time for this photo:

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The lenses are also to be glued in, and of course painted in X-26 Clear Orange. I left them off, as was the case with the side-markers, while the “face” of the truck was coming together:

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It looks like the front of a Hilux now!

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The bumper and most of the front grille are to be painted black, which had me debating whether or not I should paint them at all. However, the front panel below the bumper is to be painted body-colour, so it will be painted regardless. The temptation to leave them alone is there – except for the grille trim – but they will probably see paint.

This is the hardware needed to fix that front end, with side mirrors, to the shell:

w451d.jpg

It is curious to me that the Bruiser be issued with (and drilled for!) two mirrors and only directed to use one. The Bruiser’s decal sheet features a blue sticker to cover the passenger-side hole left by the unused right-side mirror. That will not work with my paint plans, and besides, I intend to use both.

The mirrors themselves look strange to me, but all together the shell looks more like a truck:

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At this point, I removed the bed and rear cab panel; the shell was too unwieldy with them. I also wanted to replace the screws on the rear cab panel while attaching the side rails:

25jz0bo.jpg

The manual advises paint (TS-7 Pure White, which I do not have) for these rails, but not for the front and rear bumpers. Will this plastic yellow if left alone? Will clear-coat provide some protection? The bumpers and side rails are from the same parts tree. I can paint them later, I suppose.

The window assembly went on simultaneously:

2aexg28.jpg

Once the rear cab panel was returned, I found the top of the panel kept bowing into the cab. Without a window or glue, I used an extraneous piece of rubber tubing (probably from my Lancia 037 build), propped against this unused screw hole in the roof (for the Bruiser’s bed topper extension). It works well to keep the plastic from bending inward and thus out of shape:

2vtwttw.jpg

This will be useful when the time comes to glue the rear panel into the cab, bracing this edge while it sets. The tubing is sufficiently discreet to become a permanent accessory if absolutely necessary.

The cockpit went together, using tape for the steering column and craft glue for the steering wheel:

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I wanted to fit an unpainted driver figure in there, but the non-permanent glues were not strong enough to support the figure’s arms. Hence, it was left out while the interior went in:

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All that remained were three screws and nuts, to attach the bed to the rear cab panel:

1582l3p.jpg

As inventory goes, there were a lot of extra screws and nuts, especially as the step-side bed makes no provisions for side-marker lights, and I do not have hardware yet for tail lights. The screws for the bed were the perfect length, though, and soon I had most of the shell assembled without paint:

ztsv3m.jpg

With the shell in this state, it is possible to appreciate the future of this project a little more!

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The future of this project looks nicely-sorted:

1zdq5as.jpg

28qu25l.jpg

There are still a few rough edges in the bed, but nothing that cannot be sanded. That mechanism box is looking like a nice fit:

2wqz76c.jpg

The stance is good, and on the whole, it is a nice-looking truck:

2l8vg9e.jpg

Even if it does really look like that other Bruiser with the step-side bed:

8z1SWpNh.jpg

Maybe if I used some reproduction Hilux 4 x 4 decals… But then:

Vintage-Tamiya-Toyota-Hilux-1-10-scale-0

Well, I guess I do like it! I will deliberate on a paint scheme in the wait for painting weather…

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On ‎2‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 5:58 AM, Grastens said:

The future of this project looks nicely-sorted:

1zdq5as.jpg

28qu25l.jpg

There are still a few rough edges in the bed, but nothing that cannot be sanded. That mechanism box is looking like a nice fit:

2wqz76c.jpg

The stance is good, and on the whole, it is a nice-looking truck:

2l8vg9e.jpg

Even if it does really look like that other Bruiser with the step-side bed:

8z1SWpNh.jpg

Maybe if I used some reproduction Hilux 4 x 4 decals… But then:

Vintage-Tamiya-Toyota-Hilux-1-10-scale-0

Well, I g!uess I do like it! I will deliberate on a paint scheme in the wait for painting weather…

Very cool stuff on this project Grastens! Perfect idea to get some more Vintage Hilux look into the Bruiser / Mountaineer! Do you plan to install a rollcage with lights?

Good luck and inspiration for the next steps,

Matthias

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On 3/14/2019 at 1:59 PM, ruebiracer said:

Very cool stuff on this project Grastens! Perfect idea to get some more Vintage Hilux look into the Bruiser / Mountaineer! Do you plan to install a rollcage with lights?

Good luck and inspiration for the next steps,

Matthias

Thank you! Having read up on my styrene tube-bending techniques, I feel sufficiently inspired to attempt a roll bar! I have some nice thick-section tubing I can use for a properly-burly one.

That will take some time, though. For the moment, I have applied several coats of grey surface primer in hopes of reducing the colour disparity between the white truck cab and the black truck bed. I am not sure why I did this now, when I know I still need to make cuts for the tail lights (and possibly the roll bar), but the shell has enough coats for paint to stick. It is still obvious that the shell has two different plastics in it, though the contrast is less stark than previously.

I found several cans of TS-7 Racing White. I was planning to use TS-26 Pure White, but feel the off-white tone works better for a truck. I have decided on the main colour, but am unsure how much of the truck will be white if I apply that colour first. There will be quite a bit of time to deliberate while everything cures...

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Hi Evan just seen this. We obviously have the same taste in cars! 

I have the loops parts on their way to me right now and have the same plan in mind for my Mountain Rider. Really interesting to see how you have managed the radio box protruding up into the body. I was mulling over putting a flatbed over the top to reproduce the original Hilux vibe but I rather like your elegant solution.

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Years later, and circumstances pushed me to complete the Bruiser instead of push it aside!

Having moved to another city, I got settled in, and the Bruiser was sort of forgotten. Now, I move again, and with the rekindling of my interest in RC cars, this next move puts me further away from the construction site where I had been running my RC cars. While the place is being overrun with vegetation/weeds, it makes running buggies and regular 1:10 cars a bit difficult. However, a big truck...

I abandoned a lot of my plans for a more elaborate build, for the sake of finally getting some actual bodywork on the most spectacular chassis I have ever constructed. This meant maybe the worst application of TS-43 Racing Green, rounding up all the hardware and pieces that were scattered in the intervening years, and settling for a simple interior and driver figure setup (instead of the custom-sculpted driver and passenger I had envisioned earlier).

I still managed to sculpt the driver's face a bit prior to painting, and added black hair and brown eyes as a nod to my own appearance. The driver does not look anything like me, but that was hardly of concern when all I wanted was to complete it:

lRqVTUL.jpg

To spare the stock Bruiser decal sheet, I used decals from a miscellaneous sheet I had ordered from MCI Racing some time ago. The detail is obviously lacking compared to the Tamiya originals, but for my purposes, they suffice:

njxGjTF.jpg

The Loops RC stepside bed does not have taillights. The original Hilux 3-speed bed did not, either, with the lights instead being mounted on the rear bumper. I managed to slap together a solution using the spare light lenses from the clear parts sprue, some styrene card, and double-sided tape:

qAvhnLu.jpg

Eventually, I may acquire some proper light buckets and fit them, just as I plan to illuminate the front end some day. In the interim, this will do. The use of double-sided tape also makes this setup reversible, for the day when I do install more permanent rear lights.

And from there, it was a maiden putt around the yard:

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A lot of this truck did not go to plan, but in the end, I decided the most important thing for me from this kit was to experience a Tamiya 3-speed. In common with a number of old truck owners, I can always customize it later with more money ;)

That first run was fantastic - I really enjoyed shifting it through the gears using the Futaba Attack radio I had set aside specifically for this truck. As before, I did manage to make it work with a 3-channel pistol radio, with the 3rd channel switch handling shifting. That actually resulted in smoother shifting and less fatigue, but why do that when you can literally row through the gears as with these radios:

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I did have to change the drag brake setting on the ESC to improve shifting, as the truck wanted to brake whenever the stick was in neutral. With some practice, eventually I got adept at shifting gears without too much crunching!

Thus concludes the main build. A more spirited run is up next!

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July 1 is a holiday in Canada. As a result, I had a free day and a freshly-completed Tamiya Bruiser to take out! The plan was obvious:

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I had to drive it over to the construction pit. The location is close enough that I usually ride a bicycle to it, carrying the RC car of choice in a backpack, but the Bruiser is so massive that I had no way to carry it over there! With the extra space afforded by a 1:1 vehicle, I brought along the Lancia 037 4WD-H for fun and to change things up between breaks for the truck.

With the radio on and the battery plugged in (I forgot my ESC of choice does not have a switch!), it was time to truly enjoy the 3-speed experience:

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I mostly found out that this truck is phenomenally photogenic:

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Of course, having the right setting helps, too! This construction site really has a lot of interesting topography, and all at a scale manageable for 1:10 vehicles. The Bruiser was able to explore it to a much greater extent than my other RC cars - such is the capability of a 3-speed truck!

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The most striking aspect of the Bruiser was its inevitability: coming from much-faster RC buggies and rally cars, this truck was fantastically slow even in top gear, but I could almost always count on it to lumber over and through any obstacle at which it was aimed.

With that revelation came the clarity into RC rock crawling's appeal: barrelling over flat land and jumps is good fun, but conquering steep climbs and passes in a big ol' truck can be just as smile-inducing. It became far easier to imagine the construction pit as an uncharted scale mountain region, and instead of putting myself into the seat of a hot-shot ace racer, I found joy in putting myself into the shoes of an explorer, venturing out into the unknown.

It was a very different RC experience for me, and one that was only possible with a behemoth like the Bruiser. So this is what it's about, then!

To quote Tamiya's promotional video for the Super Champ: "Rugged? You bet it is!" The Bruiser survived a big share of mishaps:

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Its sheer glory when covered in mud is the strongest case against a Bruiser shelf queen:

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I did not glue the tires, and eventually the wheels began to spin inside the tires. I seem to remember reading that this is one way to preserve the transmission in the absence of the hop-up slipper clutch, though its climbing definitely suffered as a result. The manual does not say anything about not gluing them, though, so I made sure to do so after this session - and a good clean!

I locked the rear differential while leaving the front one open to find a balance between better uphill traction and on-road handling. For the most part, it worked, and the Bruiser very rarely got hung up on obstacles.

The end result: five(!) spent battery packs, two very muddy vehicles (the 037 had a time - another story in itself), and a reminder that yes, I still very much love RC cars!

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I look forward to many more adventures with this brilliant truck :wub:

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