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Karimels

Jumped back into it after 20 years! (2016 Blackfoot)

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So my son had a Target gift card, and some cheap 30 dollar RC buggy caught his eye. After bringing it home, I started showing him You Tube video's of Tamiya Offroad cars (I had a Hornet in the 80's and a Fox in the 90's, but long gone). Well sure enough, after watching for a few hours, I got the itch, and have JUST ordered a 2016 Blackfoot, the MIP diff as well as half of AmPro's BlackFoot aftermarket Parts (basically everything  except the new rear suspension). I'll have everything in about a week and look forward to putting it together. The only thing I have NOT ordered is the Battery. I see everyone is going Lipo. I have zero plans to race this thing, it will be a basher to enjoy with the boys (I have a 11 and 6 year old), and really my only requirement is longer playtime, so should I just go with multiple Nimh's or invest in a good Lipo (again, longevity of drive time is my requirement, not speed or power). Feels great to be back on the RC scene, and look forward to everyone's input.

 

Thank you

K

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I use NiMh but more for ease of use and safety as with 3 kids and away in the caravan I take the chance of fire with LiPo's seriously. I am lazy and cant be bothered with the putting storage charges etc with LiPo's

You can get cracking run times with massive 5000mAh BUT its better value to get 2 Nr at about 3500mAh.

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I returned to the hobby a few years ago and was really surprised/ happy that the NiMh batteries are so much better than before. 

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Yeah, I used to run the Lumpy Tamiya Battery, that trickle charged over night. 24 hour wait for 10 minutes of spirited driving! Haha, even then it was still a blast!

 

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Welcome to TC.  

Blackfoot is an iconic Tamiya.  I've had so much fun with a used vintage back in 2000.  I still have that 80's thing, plus a re-re.  

I am happy that I switched over to LiPo.  My last battery before LiPo was NiMH in early 2000.  If I stopped running in August, and if I don't recharge a couple times until next May, NiMH could be dead.  At half-charge, a LiPo will last a couple years.  Also, LiPo is only about 60% of the weight.  Less weight would give you a longer run time.  More stable output and higher voltage are incidental benefits. 

But given the weight of the resin body, heavier NiMH at the bottom might give you better balance.  You can use older chargers.  Even if you drop it from the 2nd floor window, NiMH won't catch fire (especially if you have a 6 year old).  LiPo is good, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with NiHM.  I'd stick with NiMH until the boys are older.  After a few years, when the NiMH doesn't charge well, switch over to LiPo.  Who knows, they might have Lithium-Silicon (LiSi?) or some other safer high-drain batteries by then.  

$40-60 can get you iMax B6 (price depends on the power supply) that will charge anything including NiMH.  If you decide to go with LiPo, voltage alarms are usually less than $3.  Cheap fireproof bags cost only $5, just in case.  

 

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You'll be happy with NiMH.  Get one that's about 3000mAh and you'll be able to run for about 30min.  Get a second battery and a fast charger and you can charge in 30min.  That way you can run one while you charge the other...

Terry

 

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I also rediscovered my Tamiya past only recently with a build of a re re Super Hotshot (and subsequently the purchase of an Avante and Egress both of which I'm looking forward to building with my boys) and was grappling with some of the new technology decisions - LiPo, brushless etc.. I've stuck to using 3000mAh NiMH which I find more than adequate, charge times are acceptable and run times are far, far longer than anything I remember back in the day running 7.2v NiCd's which used to give us about 10 mins. For these buggies, I'm staying with NiMH; safe, easy to maintain and great for hours of fun. For my crawler (TRX 4 - my other "hobby") I've moved over to LiPo since there's far more demand from the terrain and from running high voltage servo, winch, lights etc..

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Parts are trickingling in. Got the Futaba pistol, the 540 Sport Motor, the bearings, MIP differential, some AmPro Parts and the actual truck should be here by Tuesday!!!! Getting excited!!! Also, I decided to go with 3000Ah NiMH, two of them like everyone has said, will go to Lipo once I'm back in the hang of things. I forgot how addicting this hobby is. I'm already trying to figure out how to justify the cost of a re re Super Hotshot, I spend's all day reading Tamiya Club and watching YouTube video's! hahaha. It's good to be back!

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6 hours ago, Karimels said:

Parts are trickingling in. Got the Futaba pistol, the 540 Sport Motor, the bearings, MIP differential, some AmPro Parts and the actual truck should be here by Tuesday!!!! Getting excited!!! Also, I decided to go with 3000Ah NiMH, two of them like everyone has said, will go to Lipo once I'm back in the hang of things. I forgot how addicting this hobby is. I'm already trying to figure out how to justify the cost of a re re Super Hotshot, I spend's all day reading Tamiya Club and watching YouTube video's! hahaha. It's good to be back!

Whatever you do, do NOT get drunk and start shopping on EBAY...

Terry

 

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12 hours ago, MICHAELs TopForce17 said:

Sorry to hijack how much parts does the 1986 and 2016 models share?

Mostly they are the same. 

The dogbones in the rear got a pair of more reliable CVDs.  I only lost the dogbone once on my vintage (and I found it in a minute, and never happened again).  But I don't have to worry about CVDs flying off on the re-re.  So it's a definite +1.  Good job, Tamiya.

2zEJHVi.jpg

 

Rear axle cover was added for looks, I guess.  I don't find it attractive, or unattractive.  It lowers ground clearance by 5mm.  So  I don't know if that adds anything.  0 point.    

1iTEuoO.jpg

 

The shocks became quite uselessly hard, because Tamiya decided to use nail heads instead of proper piston heads.  These are like cast-iron nails, seriously.  Tamiya likes their shocks impossibly hard, and that's not to everybody's liking.  I want my shocks to absorb shocks.  (I wonder if Tamiya thinks these things are shock-givers?)  

So that's a -1.  Bad job, Tamiya.  Don't use nailheads for pistons, please.  (But then again, considering how young kids end up losing e-clips, Tamiya might have thought this would make it simlple... only, it's too hard!)   

7tcDETt.jpg

I'd say, get proper shocks, or drill holes if you have a drill press.  If you are too poor to have a drill press like me, you can grind the corners, as I did in proud ghetto-style.  All you need is a file from a dollar store.  (I did 6 notches for the front, 8 notches for the rear) 

DfZmy9N.jpg

So, these are big 3 changes I can spot readily.  

I wish body mounts became softer, like the bendy bumper material.  But it's still the hard kind that breaks relatively easily on impact.  

 

 

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On 2/16/2019 at 1:19 AM, Juggular said:

Mostly they are the same. 

The dogbones in the rear got a pair of more reliable CVDs.  I only lost the dogbone once on my vintage (and I found it in a minute, and never happened again).  But I don't have to worry about CVDs flying off on the re-re.  So it's a definite +1.  Good job, Tamiya.

2zEJHVi.jpg

 

Rear axle cover was added for looks, I guess.  I don't find it attractive, or unattractive.  It lowers ground clearance by 5mm.  So  I don't know if that adds anything.  0 point.    

1iTEuoO.jpg

 

The shocks became quite uselessly hard, because Tamiya decided to use nail heads instead of proper piston heads.  These are like cast-iron nails, seriously.  Tamiya likes their shocks impossibly hard, and that's not to everybody's liking.  I want my shocks to absorb shocks.  (I wonder if Tamiya thinks these things are shock-givers?)  

So that's a -1.  Bad job, Tamiya.  Don't use nailheads for pistons, please.  (But then again, considering how young kids end up losing e-clips, Tamiya might have thought this would make it simlple... only, it's too hard!)   

7tcDETt.jpg

I'd say, get proper shocks, or drill holes if you have a drill press.  If you are too poor to have a drill press like me, you can grind the corners, as I did in proud ghetto-style.  All you need is a file from a dollar store.  (I did 6 notches for the front, 8 notches for the rear) 

DfZmy9N.jpg

So, these are big 3 changes I can spot readily.  

I wish body mounts became softer, like the bendy bumper material.  But it's still the hard kind that breaks relatively easily on impact.  

 

 

Having just purchased a newly built 2016 Blackfoot Ai fiund your reply very helpful thank you @Juggular!

I'll definately ghetto the nail head pistons in the shocks like you did lol, looks perfect to me.

I'm a bit worried about the rear diff after reading about it, I just jumped straight in and bought it as I've always liked the look of it and wanted one but delayed delayed delayed.... you know how some things take time to bring to the boil in this hobby.

So this rear diff... sounds awful but only if you run something faster than a silver can prahaps? What could be the safe motor limits for not destroying it? Mine will come stick built with bearings and a TBLE-02S ESC and silver can all brand new.... I figure there are 3 options

1) Run silver can and be happy ( if Possible!)

2) Buy MIP Super Ball Diff but that's £60 in the UK so a but pricey.

3) ????? 

Any help or advice much appreciated, Im already planning on shelving the stock hard body ( looks so pretty) as it's supposed to be quite heavy and helps the truck topple over more than a lightweight lexan shell.... the spending accumulates quick with these things!

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@Jason1145 My sons Monster Beetle was run with a silvercan only and often at 60% EPA and that diff lasted about 3 months.  I bought the MIP diff but there other fixes around - i think you can drill through the outdrives and screw them together?

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<Motor> ---- I ran without ball bearings back in 2001 (bearings were expensive then).  I wasn't happy with 15-year old silver can.  But I was happy with a "black motor" (Sport Tuned).  With bearings installed now, it runs even faster.  

If you want to run hard, spend $40 and get 13.5t.  If you want to keep it "stock-ish-but-with-some-kick," then I'd spend $17, and get Sport Tuned.  

I did not want to run it hard because I didn't want to break the shell.  But I ended up running hard on a totally broken concrete alleyway.  The heavy shell adding weights made bouncing on jutting concrete pieces quite exciting.  It was like looking at miniature Baja trucks bouncing on a desert.  If you asked me if I wanted to get a Lexan body then, I would have said no. I wanted to see the suspension working hard.  What I'm saying is, if you put 8.5t on it, you'll run it as fast as it can go, and you might need that MIP diff.  

It also depends on the surface you'd run.  Narrow two-car alleyway with rough surface?  Silver or black motor.  A football or baseball field? 13.5t.  When ORV came out, I doubt that the engineers thought 40,000 rpm from 8.5t was even possible then.  It's a good basher, but it's not DN01.  Even if I had $500 to spend on it, the most I'd put on would be 13.5t.  My vintage has Sport tuned, re-re has a stock motor with advanced timing which is quite similar to the Sport tuned.  

<DIFF> ---- Fortunately for me, they don't have any problem yet.  The vintage one was run hard, on a very rough surface.  Still no problem.  I don't know why some Blackfeet have problems while some don't.  

You can wait and see.  One of the ways is sticky grease.  If your diff develops a problem, you can use the bolting method, or go with MIP then.  I was going to try 3Racing diff grease today.  But my wife wants me to go to the groceries with her, which usually takes up the whole afternoon... 

I digress, but sticky grease would add a bit more thickness. The thickness itself won't help much, but since it is sticky, it's difficult for all 3 bevel gears to skip. (If you put this between your thumb and forefinger, it's slightly stickier than glue-stick, which is nifty as a limited slip differential)  I'd use locktite on the screws for the gearbox too.  You can tighten the gearbox snugly, but without binding. Look for play. If there is play, see if you can add a shim without binding. (I forgot if I added a shim or not. I do it routinely, so I don't remember what I did for each car...unless the gap is unusually big like the diff in DN01)  But be careful not to screw the plastic chassis too tightly... My hand got used to tighten hard during the gearbox assembly. When I got to the attaching-the-gearbox-to-the-chassis part, I cracked the plastic on the frame.  I had to order the chassis frame.  

I think ORV is a wonderful basher chassis.  I wish Tamiya did more with ORV, like using thicker metal plates for the gearbox and including a thin shim?  That'd be cheaper than including a ball diff.   

hT2wVwS.jpg

And add some unexpected new body like this 39 Chevy. 

ypIZ9sY.jpg

 

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So @Jonathon Gillham what happened after 3 months on silver can at 60% throttle..... diff slipping??

I did find a thread on here from 2016 some member made a product ( looked like 4 black discs) that effectively welded the gearcases together but he stopped producing those worse luck.

So you are right, I might just need to search out other mods if it becomes an issue.... but after hearing Juggs good news story I might hold off till a problem actually arises. Normally I buy tons of stuff before a new toy car even arrives but I'm trying to temper that now ;)

 

@Juggular so your black can Sport Tuned Blackfoot is still going without any diff issues.... hmmm that sounds just like what I might want.

I seriously won't push this truck too hard given the potential weak diff so a Sport Tuned might be the way forward.. I might as well try the stock silvercan first just to see how what's what and then decide cheers.

PS that is one odd looking Chevy... that exhaust snaking down the side and up over the rear wheel... love it.

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I'm hoping this is a good happy medium... all stock on 2s lipo, I wonder if it's held up to this day and how many runs are on it @Theibault

 

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3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

So @Jonathon Gillham what happened after 3 months on silver can at 60% throttle..... diff slipping??

I did find a thread on here from 2016 some member made a product ( looked like 4 black discs) that effectively welded the gearcases together but he stopped producing those worse luck.

So you are right, I might just need to search out other mods if it becomes an issue.... but after hearing Juggs good news story I might hold off till a problem actually arises. Normally I buy tons of stuff before a new toy car even arrives but I'm trying to temper that now ;)

 

@Juggular so your black can Sport Tuned Blackfoot is still going without any diff issues.... hmmm that sounds just like what I might want.

I seriously won't push this truck too hard given the potential weak diff so a Sport Tuned might be the way forward.. I might as well try the stock silvercan first just to see how what's what and then decide cheers.

PS that is one odd looking Chevy... that exhaust snaking down the side and up over the rear wheel... love it.

It started clicking so i shimmed it, that helped but then it started again. Eventually it was slipping. We just run in the backyard and the silvercan is plenty, i was surprised how quick it is in stock form with bearings. Its basically the same as other 2wd cars, it just looks like it should be slower

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15 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Having just purchased a newly built 2016 Blackfoot

Was your BF ever run before you got it @Jason1145? Or have you just built yourself?

I had the same apprehension as you about the Diff and the MIP's had sold out that I could find. But seeing a NIB BF on sale I couldn't resist. 

But if it  helps, I have a 17.5t 2200kv Hobbywing Justock BL, NiMH, TBLE02 in mine. I found the the battery pack stayed a lot cooler on Brushless, I swapped out the motor after the first run as I had it sitting around. 

I put one 5x11x0.3 shim in the diff and after 3-4 battery packs seems fine, no skipping yet. ( Thats probably just jinxed it ) I couldn't get a 0.5 shim as suggested at the time. The other spare 9 shims in the packet came in handy taking up the slop in the front end though. But seeing as the MIP Diffs are now available again I am tempted to pick one up just incase and I could potentially be picking up a Subaru Brat this weekend and would like to put a better than silver can in it.

I looked at putting my square hardcase Lipo in but the post out the top of the battery is right where the mounting point is on the Chassis for the battery end retainer. So a slight modification needed for that.

With regard to the body I've  seen a Lexan BF body by Parma on eBay.com for $28 US Think it was.

Enjoy it anyway :)

B6dTWz9l.jpg

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Oh yes forgot to mention that the instructions in the BF tell you NOT to glue the Tyres on. As it’s been suggested before this more than likely takes the strain of the gearbox too. So long as you don’t have to hot a motor in there then you will have to glue them on. 

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15 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

It started clicking so i shimmed it, that helped but then it started again. Eventually it was slipping. We just run in the backyard and the silvercan is plenty, i was surprised how quick it is in stock form with bearings. Its basically the same as other 2wd cars, it just looks like it should be slower

After just running my Clodbuster properly for the first time seeing it amble along majestically and take little doped bumps and catch 5cm of air... I think running a BF on a silver can it will be like a scolded wotsit, it might just be enough.

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10 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Was your BF ever run before you got it @Jason1145? Or have you just built yourself?

I had the same apprehension as you about the Diff and the MIP's had sold out that I could find. But seeing a NIB BF on sale I couldn't resist. 

But if it  helps, I have a 17.5t 2200kv Hobbywing Justock BL, NiMH, TBLE02 in mine. I found the the battery pack stayed a lot cooler on Brushless, I swapped out the motor after the first run as I had it sitting around. 

I put one 5x11x0.3 shim in the diff and after 3-4 battery packs seems fine, no skipping yet. ( Thats probably just jinxed it ) I couldn't get a 0.5 shim as suggested at the time. The other spare 9 shims in the packet came in handy taking up the slop in the front end though. But seeing as the MIP Diffs are now available again I am tempted to pick one up just incase and I could potentially be picking up a Subaru Brat this weekend and would like to put a better than silver can in it.

I looked at putting my square hardcase Lipo in but the post out the top of the battery is right where the mounting point is on the Chassis for the battery end retainer. So a slight modification needed for that.

With regard to the body I've  seen a Lexan BF body by Parma on eBay.com for $28 US Think it was.

Enjoy it anyway :)

B6dTWz9l.jpg

It's been built a ran a couple times by the previous owner then sold to me... he used a different motor and esc so I'm hoping he hasn't stripped anything already but he didn't mention it so fingers crossed.

Knowing me a lexan body will find its way on to it so thanks for the Parma tip.

Good luck getting the Brat that's a nice looking car too, would that shell fit this BF chassis too?

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3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

It's been built a ran a couple times by the previous owner then sold to me... he used a different motor and esc so I'm hoping he hasn't stripped anything already but he didn't mention it so fingers crossed.

Good luck getting the Brat that's a nice looking car too, would that shell fit this BF chassis too?

^_^ hoping nothing’s stripped for you too. But maybe why he sold it??

Brat body should fit the BF chassis with the right posts as it was on an ORV chassis for the Mud Blaster. :)

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