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Jason1145

A good servo for a Bullhead?

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Looking for a good strong servo that won't break the bank, doesn't have to be a brand name but something strong enough to give the Bullhead what for!

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I used a metal Alturn in my lads clod, no issues 😉

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I don't have a Clod but have tried these servos and they work great

https://www.banggood.com/4X-MG995-High-Torgue-Mental-Gear-Analog-Servo-p-999629.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

I don't know if they are what the specs say but even if they're overstated by 20% they're still decent.  I bought 4 for NZD$28 delivered and have them in my boats and a spare going into the tank.  I hope they last ok as I'll be really sad if my yacht goes sailing off into the distance because a servo failed...

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1 hour ago, svenb said:

I used a metal Alturn in my lads clod, no issues 😉

Which model bud?

 

25 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I don't have a Clod but have tried these servos and they work great

https://www.banggood.com/4X-MG995-High-Torgue-Mental-Gear-Analog-Servo-p-999629.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

I don't know if they are what the specs say but even if they're overstated by 20% they're still decent.  I bought 4 for NZD$28 delivered and have them in my boats and a spare going into the tank.  I hope they last ok as I'll be really sad if my yacht goes sailing off into the distance because a servo failed...

Yep look like the 996 model too for specs... darned cheap for a lot of oomph!

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5 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Which model bud?

AAS-750MG

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I have been using these in crawlers lately and they haven't let me down:

https://www.amazon.com/Miuzei-Torque-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B07HNTKSZT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1550013570&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=waterproof+high+torque+servo&psc=1

Even being underwater, under mud, etc they perform well.  Lot of torque as well.

The MG995/996 is also a strong servo, but you get what you pay for.  They dont like to center properly and can be glitchy.  I use them often in Clods I run in the mud with one servo on each axle.  Not sure how they'd do with only one servo, but short of a 1/4 scale servo nothing will turn a Clod well with just a single center mount.

I would definitely not trust the MG servos in a boat, that's just asking for trouble.  Stick with a good waterproof Savox or similar, you get what you pay for with servos for the most part.

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57 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

I would definitely not trust the MG servos in a boat, that's just asking for trouble.  Stick with a good waterproof Savox or similar, you get what you pay for with servos for the most part.

What would be your concern?  The servos (so far) are centering fine and they have more than enough torque - people use the Futabab S3003 without problems on these boats.  Even if they don't centre properly thats not the end of the world as its a yacht and not being raced competitively.  My only concern is that they stop working while the boat is in the water - have you had them fail on you?

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Failing unexpectedly would be my concern in a boat.  I have had a few failures of them, enough that I always have a spare with me when out on the trails as I've had to swap one out more than once.  I like them because they have great torque and are dirt cheap, cheap enough to go through 3-4 of them before you even come close to the price of a quality servo.  I love them for my trail trucks, but wouldn't use them in a boat or plane.  If you have a way to retrieve the boat then no worries, but I definitely wouldn't use one in a plane in case of failure.  

You mentioned the S3003.  The MG995/996 has a lot more torque, but the electronics & assembly of the Futaba is far superior.  As long as you're not overworking the Futaba and using it in a proper application I would trust that any day over the MG servo.

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I don't think the Bullhead will ever centre properly standing still given the weight of it.... I can't even visualise a servo strong enough to turn the wheels standing still!

Thanks for the help guys... ordered a DS3281MG -  the 25KG version over the 20KG one.

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10 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Looking for a good strong servo that won't break the bank, doesn't have to be a brand name but something strong enough to give the Bullhead what for!

Mate, think I got something new I can send you from my spares box which was the same ones as used on my clod / txts / juggs etc

Includes the oversized star horns for the extra the leverage too.

Will have a mooch in a bit

Edit# Ah, see you already ordered, no worries

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6 hours ago, Prescient said:

Mate, think I got something new I can send you from my spares box which was the same ones as used on my clod / txts / juggs etc

Includes the oversized star horns for the extra the leverage too.

Will have a mooch in a bit

Edit# Ah, see you already ordered, no worries

Thanks anyway but yeah I've high hopes for the ordered servo, it also has what looks like longer than stock horns for the extra leverage you mentioned

Im a bit worried now as I also ordered a Hobbywing 860 ESC ( to replace the MSC) and was going to upgrade the brushed motors too from the current silver cans... but just watching a YouTube video of @shenlonco he put in two 20t motors into his Bullhead and he mentioned having to put one motor to run backwards.. makes sense but I've no idea what that involves doing when mounting the motors into the gearboxes... any help?

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16 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Thanks anyway but yeah I've high hopes for the ordered servo, it also has what looks like longer than stock horns for the extra leverage you mentioned

Im a bit worried now as I also ordered a Hobbywing 860 ESC ( to replace the MSC) and was going to upgrade the brushed motors too from the current silver cans... but just watching a YouTube video of @shenlonco he put in two 20t motors into his Bullhead and he mentioned having to put one motor to run backwards.. makes sense but I've no idea what that involves doing when mounting the motors into the gearboxes... any help?

To make a motor run backwards you just have to swap the wires or he might mean that the motors have advanced timing in which case you would have to put the reverse amount of timing on the rear motor ie: if the motors had +15 timing, you would keep the front at +15 and make the rear -15. The rear is turning the opposite way so even though it's set at -15 it will actually be +15 when the direction of the motor is accounted for.

Or you could just set both motors to neutral.

The problems happens with motors that have locked advanced timing such as the sport turned. The motor doenst have adjustable timing so you can't balance them put.

Have you considered running the stock motors on 3s? That seems to work well for many people. 3s would cremate those motors in a lot of vehicles but the gearing of the clod platform means they can hack it. 

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2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Thanks anyway but yeah I've high hopes for the ordered servo, it also has what looks like longer than stock horns for the extra leverage you mentioned

Im a bit worried now as I also ordered a Hobbywing 860 ESC ( to replace the MSC) and was going to upgrade the brushed motors too from the current silver cans... but just watching a YouTube video of @shenlonco he put in two 20t motors into his Bullhead and he mentioned having to put one motor to run backwards.. makes sense but I've no idea what that involves doing when mounting the motors into the gearboxes... any help?

3s lipo on silvercans is the way to go in these as these are neutral timed. This really does run at the limits  of the chassis. The only other motor that really works well is the Tamiya Super Stock BZ/TZ (same motor) as you can reverse the timing by cutting the tab.

I found a lot of lower turn motors just don't perform as the torque isn't there. Esp the £10 venom 19/20T type.

Any motor Inc sports tuned with fixed (advanced) timing won't run properly in the flipped gearbox. 

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Thank you @nowinaminute and @Prescient... that certainly seems a much simpler introduction into my new Bullheas chassis experience!

Silver cans on 3s lipo it is, well,I'm sure I'll give 2s lipo a go first and see how that runs.

Just out of curiosity .... are there other neutral times motors that could be dropped in to this Clod chassis if the silver cans don't last too long?

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1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Thank you @nowinaminute and @Prescient... that certainly seems a much simpler introduction into my new Bullheas chassis experience!

Silver cans on 3s lipo it is, well,I'm sure I'll give 2s lipo a go first and see how that runs.

Just out of curiosity .... are there other neutral times motors that could be dropped in to this Clod chassis if the silver cans don't last too long?

Silvercans on 3s are in spec really. Takes a long time to kill them (I never managed it) and you can replace with another set for peanuts. 

Running 3s on other motors that will fit and deliver decent torque isn't worth it. However, you can neutrally or reverse time the super stock motors and on 3s they are a hoot.

Reality is, once you get over 14-16mph the Clod / BH chassis goes beyond its limits. 

If I recall, 540 motors are about 2000 rpm per volt so the super stocks are about 50% faster. 

On 3s with the tyres clued and the super stock BZs with a full throttle and decent pack from standing mine would try and do a standing summersault.

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2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Thank you @nowinaminute and @Prescient... that certainly seems a much simpler introduction into my new Bullheas chassis experience!

Silver cans on 3s lipo it is, well,I'm sure I'll give 2s lipo a go first and see how that runs.

Just out of curiosity .... are there other neutral times motors that could be dropped in to this Clod chassis if the silver cans don't last too long?

You could just get a couple more from hobbyking for about £3.50 each IF they fail or another cheap option is the HSP 20t 540 for about £5, that might be fast enough on 2s too.

If you want something a little better quality, I have been blown away by these for the price. Exactly the same as the RC4WD rebuildable motors but a fraction of the cost. They have adjustable timing but are neutral as stock.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Original-Hot-GoolRC-540-27T-Sensored-Brushed-Motor-for-1-10-RC-Car-UK-C5J4/223220477725?epid=27020025768&hash=item33f8fa2f1d:g:YvsAAOSwIDBb31F4:rk:6:pf:0

You can get those under various names but they are all the same thing. You can get various different winds too.

 

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Hi guy's I use the RC4WD 20 turn crawler motors they are 0 timing so you need to reverse the polarity to one of the motors so they rotate the correct direction to make all 4 wheels rotate in the same direction properly when giving throttle. These motors are great I like them a bit faster than stock just about all the speed you would want for a clod anything more the trucks start breaking like crazy. 

 

And for a great cheap servo get one of the red 20KG servos lots of power and under $20.00!! a lot of guy's are running them now and they like them a lot.

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Great options cheers chaps... I'm think I went overkill with a25KG servo now but who knows if it is genuinely twice as strong as that Core Servo?!

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On 2/13/2019 at 4:12 PM, 87lc2 said:

Failing unexpectedly would be my concern in a boat.  I have had a few failures of them, enough that I always have a spare with me when out on the trails as I've had to swap one out more than once.  I like them because they have great torque and are dirt cheap, cheap enough to go through 3-4 of them before you even come close to the price of a quality servo.  I love them for my trail trucks, but wouldn't use them in a boat or plane.  If you have a way to retrieve the boat then no worries, but I definitely wouldn't use one in a plane in case of failure.  

You mentioned the S3003.  The MG995/996 has a lot more torque, but the electronics & assembly of the Futaba is far superior.  As long as you're not overworking the Futaba and using it in a proper application I would trust that any day over the MG servo.

Nothing to do with your Bullhead @Jason1145 but since it started in this thread I'll continue my parallel boat servo bit...With the above advice I bought a Savox 0230 waterproof servo for the sail and will swap out the least used Sanwa or Futaba servos from my fleet for steering. I had an expensive rc weekend anyway with ESC and battery so doubled down and added pinions, more wire and connectors and a servo. Easier to ask forgiveness right?

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That's only an 8KG servo @Jonathon Gillham But it is a savoy and it's waterproof for a decent price.... and Wooders reckons a 9kg servo is enough for a Bullhead so what do I know?!

I've just found a radio box from a TT02 so will keep my Bullhead receiver in there and call it waterproof too.

You had a more expensive RC weekend than me, I only broke a plastic shock on my Jumpshot which caused me to look for alloy replacements... much cheaper.

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12 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

That's only an 8KG servo @Jonathon Gillham But it is a savoy and it's waterproof for a decent price.... and Wooders reckons a 9kg servo is enough for a Bullhead so what do I know?!

I've just found a radio box from a TT02 so will keep my Bullhead receiver in there and call it waterproof too.

You had a more expensive RC weekend than me, I only broke a plastic shock on my Jumpshot which caused me to look for alloy replacements... much cheaper.

Yeah it is, I was tempted by the 0231 for a fiver more but its a tall servo and that would mean it would have to move closer to the centre which would leave less room for the servo horn.  I'll update the build thread some day and you'll see what I mean, the servo horn is stupidly long - maybe it'll help steering on your bullhead?  Its this one

https://www.rcnz.com/categories/servo-accessories/servo-horns-and-arms/futaba-sail-servo-arm/

People use the Futaba S3003 without issue in these yachts since they come with the basic Futaba radio sets, but I'm not convinced that the 3kg torque and plastic gears would really work on the sail.  In saying that it works fine on a Monster Beetle.

I had the same thought today about the rx box from my TT02B.  I'm not sure the Flysky rx will fit in it but its worth a shot.  Also makes it easier to remove the rx as well.

Haha, did it break while using it or you broke it so you could buy an orange alloy replacement?  I've found my wife doesn't mind if I buy replacements, its buying new stuff thats the problem.  I popped the battery case open a bit more when I showed her the puffy battery to be sure...

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You win.... thats the biggest horn I've ever seen said the priest to the bishop... That wouldn't clear the chassis in the Bullhead ;)

I broke the plastic shock by overfilling it and then it wouldn't even compress in hand it's was Jamed full.... so ofcourse I put my muscles to use and squashed it... till oil burst out the middle of the shock body! The seals held... the actual body split midway! Hump!

I'm currently penning a strong letter of complaint to HPI.

Yes I'm currently looking for orange shocks now haha... 

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On 2/13/2019 at 5:07 AM, Jason1145 said:

I don't think the Bullhead will ever centre properly standing still given the weight of it.... I can't even visualise a servo strong enough to turn the wheels standing still!

Thanks for the help guys... ordered a DS3281MG -  the 25KG version over the 20KG one.

So this servo arrived today and I spent an hour tinkering with the Bullhead and got a few things done...  but guys check out this little video showing it in action... 

How does it look to you?

A few things to mention... I couldn't use the longest straight servo horn as it would hit the bottom of the chassis... Msybe it was just too long so I used the next longest which is still more than the stock one.

Also, the steeeing knuckles have little bump stops to limit their turning angle so it's pointless to try and get more throw as these just hit and cause bonding issues as the servo servo starts to strain? 

Check the video to see what I mean... comments, Criticisms, thoughts all welcome.

PS - I did drive it around indoors a tiny bit and love the 4 wheel steering lol... but even this servo isn't strong enough to turn all 4 wheels standing still... knew it wouldn't! ;)

 

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@Jason1145

 

How's it work with the wheels on? It's whether it can turn standing on the spot tyres in situ. 

Turning circle looks enough. Too much and the tyres will hit the chassis

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