Blitzer Beetle Chassis Cover?

[73robb 132]

Hi all,

I’m currently rebuilding a Blitzer Beetle which will be largely used for running on the beach. I’ve read a few posts mentioning it being a sand trap, so have been trying to find if there is a chassis cover to fit?

I found a post with something similar to what I’m looking for but it was for the DT-02 chassis, and it looks to be out of production anyway: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=108853&id=16126

Does anyone have anything they use to cover the chassis that will fit under the beetle body?

Thanks

Rob

[Hobgoblin 1059]

I just used a flat plate of HDPE cut to size and bolted on. Bit of tape around the edges and it was good enough for me to blast through puddles. 

[ThunderDragonCy 7886]

As its based on the Falcon chassis, could you buy a cheap repro falcon shell (if such a thing exists) and cut it up to act as chassis cover? Do those bodies fit particularly tight? 

[Tamiyabigstuff 832]

Cling-film wrap worth a try ?

Cheap & easily replaceable.

Falcon bodies have gaps all round.

[73robb 132]

1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

As its based on the Falcon chassis, could you buy a cheap repro falcon shell (if such a thing exists) and cut it up to act as chassis cover? Do those bodies fit particularly tight? 

I was toying with the idea of a bear hawk body but wasn’t sure how snug it fitted.

@Hobgoblin - how do you find the esc heat with the reduced airflow? Any issue of overheating?

Thanks

Rob

[max69vk 708]

30 minutes ago, 73robb said:

I was toying with the idea of a bear hawk body but wasn’t sure how snug it fitted.

@Hobgoblin - how do you find the esc heat with the reduced airflow? Any issue of overheating?

Thanks

Rob

The Bear Hawk shell leaves gaps all over the place, it’s quite surprising how much space there is between the shell & body.

If you’re not using the original manual ESC the best idea would be to cut a flat plate using styrerne that overhangs the chassi tub by a couple of mm all round to seal the tub, it can be held in place with Velcro at the front (on top of the servo) & at the rear section of the chassis which cuts around the rear shock tower (see below). If required you can always drill holes above the ESC for airflow around the cooling fins.

 

[Hobgoblin 1059]

Hi, whilst not the most accurate of tests I got through two 5ah packs back to back without overheating. However this was on grass which is going to be less of a current vampire than sand. 

[73robb 132]

Thanks everyone. I have some 1mm polycarbonate somewhere so may try cutting the to a slightly larger size than the chassis, then try to heat & bend the edge over the chassis.

Failing this, I may go for much more straightforward suggestion of cutting a plate to fit over the chassis 😀

Thanks

Rob