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CKU87

CKU's Builds - TA02SW

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Dear TamiyaClub Members!

Thank you for having me here! As you can see this is my first post. I was into RC Cars a long time ago and it caught my attention back again a few months before. So long story short, I picked up the Tamiya Porsche TA02SW Black Edition.

IMG_2038.JPG

This is a great kit for the price I paid and it comes with lots of hop up options. As I remember the old look of the TA02 from the Tamiya catalog, I prefer the looks of the FRP Chassis with the red gearboxes. So I picked up those red boxes.

IMG_2043.JPG

I want to keep the black ones as spare parts since this car will be a runner for sure. I assume that the old molding is 100% the same to the newer released TA02S and TA02SW chassis, anyone can confirm?

Next was the High Torque Servo Saver...too often recommended in other builds, so I could not pass by.

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An electronic speed controller (may sound stupid but I prefer to keep it all Tamiya).

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Some parts to protect the body, hope this is a good choice.

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Wheel adapters.

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Well yes and finally the 53155 Damper Set plus 53163 spring set.

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So I am looking forwart to start this build now. Still waiting for some paint, scissors for the body and some other tools I require. I was a bit confused that the spings from 53163 are significantly shorter than the springs delivered with the 53155 set. Did I make a mistake with the length of the springs? Will they fit the TA02SW chassis or will the dampers come to short?

Another quick question to the experts in this forum. As I am already having an eye to the Tamiya Lancie 037 TA02S, I checked the manual in order to see what ground clearance it has. I was a bit irritated when I saw that the damper installs the same like the Porsche. Both builds use the same short V1 part from 50598 sprue. Why? The 037 is supposed to be a rally car, why does it not use longer dampers with V2 part to get more ground clearance?

Besides, can anyone recommend other necessary parts?

Oh yes and unfortuntely this was a wrong purchae from my side. I want to have axle shafts but I need 48,5mm, 33,4mm and 25,3mm, at least 53098 tells me. My friendly dealer told me that there are no 33,4mm any more but I can use 33mm ones. Those new shafts will be ordered tomorrow.

IMG_2049.JPG

Cheers!

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Welcome! And what a way to introduce yourself, with a nice-looking build like this :)

I believe many recommend an alloy motor mount for this chassis - Tamiya makes one for the Manta Ray, which shares many similar components. Issued in conjunction with a propeller shaft, it is part number 47373:

tamiya-47373-1.jpg

As for the damper build: I built a Lancia 037 some time ago, and I believe what I did was omit the longer of the two internal spacers that are supposed to go in each damper. Doing this extends the effective travel of each damper, and has the side benefit of tucking the chassis higher into the body, reducing the amount of chassis exposed under the sides of the shell. The side benefit comes if the body is lowered relative to the chassis as well, but that is besides the point - more damper travel can be easily found by omitting one of the internal spacers in each damper, and it does not compromise driving performance.

It is also possible to use the longer bottom eyelet and get even better ground clearance, though the chassis does not bottom out in this configuration. I am told that bottoming out helps the car in large-jump situations, saving the damper towers and suspension components from excessive force.

In the meantime, I look forward to seeing your build progress :)

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Hello Grastens,

thanks a lot :) Good point with bottoming out, appreciate it much! In this case I will consider that for a potential Lancia Rally build in the future and thanks for your description of the damper build!

Yes, the updated shaft and the Aluminium motor mount is already part of that Porsche Kit, together with the FRP chassis, so no need for me to purchase those items :) But yes, when I do the Lancia 037 I will definitely consider the motor mount and the hop up drive shaft!

 

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I just recently built one of these, was a very enjoyable build. Its a great kit with loads of hop ups included. I think its a bit of a bargain really!

Have fun, ill keep an eye on this.

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1 hour ago, graemevw said:

I just recently built one of these, was a very enjoyable build. Its a great kit with loads of hop ups included. I think its a bit of a bargain really!

Have fun, ill keep an eye on this.

Agreed ūüĎ欆great build.¬†

Only beaten by building a TA03R

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12 hours ago, graemevw said:

I just recently built one of these, was a very enjoyable build. Its a great kit with loads of hop ups included. I think its a bit of a bargain really!

Have fun, ill keep an eye on this.

Fully agreed! If I take the price of the FRP Chassis, alloy motor mount and steel shaft, updated bones front and rear plus ball bearing...

It is a pitty the Lancia is not coming in this beautiful configuration:)

Still concerned about the dampers though, will the springs be to short?

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The springs will be fine.  A little motivation for you: 

20180731_133620

 

 

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On 3/14/2019 at 1:20 PM, El Dougo said:

The springs will be fine.  A little motivation for you: 

20180731_133620

 

 

Haha oh yessss, this is definitely a motivation. Love the looks of this Porsche and will go through your posts to find out what rims and wheels you are using! Great build!

Meanwhile some parts arrived. Finally the right axle shafts.

IMG_2088.JPG

Made my decision on the radio.

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But yet can't decide on the servo. Ordered the S3001 however have had an S3152 sitting here from my brand new Juggernaut 2 kit which is still waiting to be build someday. So I guess I will take the digital S3152 as its much faster under 6V for a steering servo. There should not be a problem with the higher force of the S3152 (6 KG at 6V) to the steering linkage right? The S3001 is rated 3KG (6V).

IMG_2089.JPG

I have seen some builds with the shocks again, so they use these black plastic clippers in order to fit the spring to the longer travel of the shocks, which makes totally sense as these upgrade springs do already offer soft/medium/hard (so from my newbie understanding you do not need these clips to adjust any preload of the spring).

Well and then the shell again...I have seen there was a nice Vaillant Limited Porsche which is more or less a relabeled Black edition. I could buy those decals, PS54 Cobalt Green and the body parts (H parts and L parts) in order to get this Vaillant Porsche. It will cost me an additional 48 ‚ā¨ to make the conversion but then again, which Porsche do I like more? The Black one or the Vaillant Model :)

So good there are tools, a hand driller, etc. in the mail currently. Leaves me some more hours to think about it :)

Edited by CKU87
*Added picture

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My spring Setup, Maybe helpful for you! You will enjoy this build very much.;)

It¬īs a fantastic kit in every livery. Just a decision which to build first.:D

P1100398.JPG

P1100400.JPG

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On 3/16/2019 at 3:07 PM, Truck Norris said:

I'd spend ‚ā¨2 (plus the PS54 cost) more and get the Vaillant body set:¬†https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=229634&lang=eng

That way you have both bodies and no unused parts.

Uff thanks Truck Norris, it's nice someone is thinking for me and saving me from stupid purchases! Appreciate it!

On 3/16/2019 at 8:17 PM, ruebiracer said:

My spring Setup, Maybe helpful for you! You will enjoy this build very much.;)

It¬īs a fantastic kit in every livery. Just a decision which to build first.:D

P1100398.JPG

P1100400.JPG

Thank you, it will help me for sure :) You are using carbon fiber right? It's not looking like the FRP elements. Is it the set from Yeah Racing?

 

Coming back to my build, a surgery at the dentist kept/and still keeps me from processing further. A new order with paint/tools came in and I did further research on the TA02. I decided to go with the Speed Gear set and the Sport Tuned.

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The regular ratio from the set is 74T main gear and 21T pinion which results in a 8.59:1 ratio. With this setting I wouldn't be able to get the ratio further down anytime in the future. The motor mount lets you install all pinions down to 16T which results in 11.27:1. For the purpose I am planning to use this car however, I am more looking into ratios below 8:1. So the 69T main gear from the speed gear set gives me this sweet range from 21T and a gear ratio of 8.01:1 all the way down to 25T, which will then result in 6.73:1. 

IMG_2119.JPG

I will be driving this kit on large and clean parking areas with some self created tracks based on pylons. My brother will join me with his new TT02S chassis (yes I already infected someone else with the Tamiya virus). The TT02S has also a ration of 8 something, however extending my research to the TT01 and TT02 world I realized those touring cars are looking to rations between 8:1 down to even 4:1. This strengthened my selection of the speed gear choice and with pinions between 22T und 25T I still have some place to try around. Oh and yes, the Sport Tuned by the way is recommended to a ratio of 7:1 in touring cars, so a perfect match which (from my previous experience) is also fast enough for the purpose I am using it. And from my personal feeling I consider the Super Stock TZ to be the strongest motor you should throw into a TA02. Just my feeling.

Browsed some forums about the servo selection and realized that I can program servo endpoints on my Futaba. These endpoints should prevent the steering linkage from any damage, regardless of the force of the servo (I am slowly making process, at least I hope so... :))

Oh and yes the final decision on the body was made! Plus the kit has the hard joint cups for the ball diff in the back but regular ones for the front, so got a set for the front gear diff as well.

IMG_2118.JPG

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On 3/21/2019 at 10:29 AM, CKU87 said:

And from my personal feeling I consider the Super Stock TZ to be the strongest motor you should throw into a TA02. Just my feeling.

I don't know brushed motor man math but I would recommend the lowest FDR possible and small fan if you are worried about heat.  I think I'm running 66/25 with a 7000kv brushless and it's hitting about 45Mph on the straight at the track.  Admittedly it's a little too much but still very enjoyable to drive :lol:

The wheels and tyres are HPI Vinatge: 

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/s/?q=HPI+Vintage

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On 3/21/2019 at 5:09 PM, ruebiracer said:

Hi again, These are in fact 2,5mm carbon shock towers, together with a Carbon chassis which gives true 230mm wheelbase for the 934, not the 236mm needed for the 911 Gt2. manufactured by Maxspeedparts.

Full story here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/88635-anniversary-934-upgrades/

 

Oh yes got into this topic and I was surprised Tamiya used the 934 shell with 230mm from the 30th anniversary with a chassis that "doesn't fit basically?". Some comments say its noticeable others say it is fine with the body on. I guess I will find out soon. Has the Lancia 037 a true wheelbase of 236mm? Or is it also 230mm?

Can anyone help me out with the knuckle arms? I noticed the two 934 Porsche (TA02SW) come with black knuckle arms, the Lancia 037 and the 911 GT2 come with blue knuckle arms. Is there a difference between those two parts? First I thought the blue one has a more narrow track as it is one the Lancia and not on the wide Porsches, but then the 911 GT2 has also the blue ones!?

Is the difference of the TA02S and the TA02SW really only those 30mm width tires in the back?

And to make the confusion perfect, what is the difference to the red knuckle arms of the Tamiya Top Force?

On 3/23/2019 at 11:18 AM, El Dougo said:

I don't know brushed motor man math but I would recommend the lowest FDR possible and small fan if you are worried about heat.  I think I'm running 66/25 with a 7000kv brushless and it's hitting about 45Mph on the straight at the track.  Admittedly it's a little too much but still very enjoyable to drive :lol:

The wheels and tyres are HPI Vinatge: 

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/s/?q=HPI+Vintage

45mph? :blink: Thats way tooooo much for my eyes, ears, nose.... and my lame reactions :D But it's nice to hear that the TA02 is capable of those heavy motors...at least under careful maintenance I assume :D Makes me confident in running this car with less worry about serious weak points on the chassis.

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4 minutes ago, CKU87 said:

Oh yes got into this topic and I was surprised Tamiya used the 934 shell with 230mm from the 30th anniversary with a chassis that "doesn't fit basically?". Some comments say its noticeable others say it is fine with the body on. I guess I will find out soon. Has the Lancia 037 a true wheelbase of 236mm? Or is it also 230mm?

It's true, Tamiya plopped a 230mm wheelbase body on a 236mm wheelbase chassis. Some tweaks to the body posts, and you and can split the additional 6mm between the front and rear arches, (if that makes any sense) and some have found that to be an acceptable solution.

Others have resorted to more drastic measures -- custom chassis plates & modifying the center drive shaft assembly,  or shaving away some plastic from the a-arms and repositioning them. Both of these tactics will give you an exact 230mm wheelbase.

13 minutes ago, CKU87 said:

I noticed the two 934 Porsche (TA02SW) come with black knuckle arms, the Lancia 037 and the 911 GT2 come with blue knuckle arms. Is there a difference between those two parts? First I thought the blue one has a more narrow track as it is one the Lancia and not on the wide Porsches, but then the 911 GT2 has also the blue ones!?

In the case of the TA02 knuckles, the original blue versions came with both the TA02 and CC01 chassis, and carried a combo of 1260 and 1510 bearings. Later on the TA03 adopted these knuckles, and they offered in both grey and black so as to match the colors of the TA03 chassis. Both versions are identical. The TA02SW "wide track" dimensions are achieved by building the wheels in the wider offeset, and of course the 30mm wheels on the rear. I think the colors of these knuckles cause a little confusion because the red TA01 version (2x1150 bearings) were provided on the TA02W models to create an even wider front track, but were also molded in black for the DF01/Manta Ray/Top Force/Hummer. It even still confuses me sometimes :lol:

 

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Hey there,

I started building however I come to a Point where I Need some help. I spend Hours already on checking the Manual but I just dont understand :(

In the Manual step 19 I Need to use BC7 which is Step screw 3x18mm.

IMG_20190407_173913.jpg

However, they are far too Long!!! It either stays out in front or sticks out in the back.

IMG_20190407_173937.jpg

I really dont get it. If i screw it in completely it sticks out in the back for at least 3-4 mm. I crosschecked with the Lancia Manual and in this Manual it says that you have to use the black step screw 3x14mm which would make more sense. Am I doing something wrong?

 

IMG_20190407_173948.jpg

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Here is another Picture... :( Cannot find my mistake...

IMG_20190407_174906.jpg

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11 minutes ago, graemevw said:

Mine...

vNYPwoV.jpg

I think thats just how it is.

Thanks graemevw! Okay Looks like thats normal. I was confused and thought that I screwed up something on the front geometry :) Cool I will move on :) 

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I have a different screw in mine.  

I haven't checked the manual but either you have the wrong screw or my OCD couldn't handle the gap and I fixed it with said screw. Probably was my OCD but either way that's not up to standard if your going to run it! 

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I was looking at the wrong car my anniversary edition actually has the same screw, I really need to fix that before I run it again!

This is my standard TA02 SW, you can see that there is a different screw and a smaller washer. It has a lot less slop:

20190408_170557

SW Manual

20190408_171112 20190408_171746

.....................................sneaking off to fix my anniversary edition :lol:

 

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