Recommended Posts

 Fancy taking the top off my defender to produce something like this. Roll cage should be ok out of plastic rod and as cab roof is retained but any ideas how to brace the rear body without a roof? And fix rear end to chassis?. https://www.historics.co.uk/buying/auctions/2018-07-07/cars/ref-122-1991-land-rover-defender-90-the-man-from-uncle/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

 Fancy taking the top off my defender to produce something like this. Roll cage should be ok out of plastic rod and as cab roof is retained but any ideas how to brace the rear body without a roof? And fix rear end to chassis?. https://www.historics.co.uk/buying/auctions/2018-07-07/cars/ref-122-1991-land-rover-defender-90-the-man-from-uncle/

Hi Busdriver - I would fabricate a simple box shaped drop-bed/load-bay out of styrene sheet (1mm would be fine once it's squared up and bonded to the inside of the [presumably] Lexan Tamiya shell you are using?) - that way you can also mount it at the rear using traditional body-posts through the floor if you wish - although perhaps go for 1.5mm styrene for the floor if you're going to mount it that way.

Take a look at my Defender Truck-Cab build: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84050-ok-tc-land-rover-d90-truck-cab-scale-crawler/ to give you an idea what I did - although that is using a hard-body of course, the principle would be similar...

Something to consider?

Jenny x

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jenny, I've seen some of your builds, there fab. The current body is a Tamiya lexan one but my modelling skills such as they are are much more associated with hard plastic. I make 1/24th cars and 1/48th planes along with radio control boats . If the wheel base of a hard shell would fit CC01 chassis I think I would use a hard body. Bit pricier but for me easier to work with. I would be happy with standoff scale shell if exact didn't work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I recall, the D90 body-sets you get on ebay (from China) like the one I used are basically a copy of the Gelande II from RC4WD, and they have a 275mm wheelbase. Presumably you could tweak the wheelbase of the CC-01 chassis to match using longer 4-link rods at the rear?

Looking forward to what you come up with!

Jx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or perhaps stretch the bed a tad. If I stayed with lexan do you have a recommendation for sticking polystyrene to lexan . I  think epoxy is too stiff? Maybe some form of contact adhesive?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

Or perhaps stretch the bed a tad. If I stayed with lexan do you have a recommendation for sticking polystyrene to lexan . I  think epoxy is too stiff? Maybe some form of contact adhesive?

Isn't the CC-01 Defender a 242mm wheelbase? (just checked on Tamiya.com) - that is a lot shorter than the Gelande/hard-body, although closer to the actual 90 wheel base [93", so 236mm in 1/10th) - so I guess the hard-bodies are closer to 1/9th scale in that case*

*(it would be good to see a photo of them side by side if anyone has one?)

As for gluing lexan and polystyrene together, you're asking the wrong person I'm afraid - I abhor lexan as a body material, although it's ok for windows I guess ;o) 

I've always found Araldite (epoxy) works well enough for joining stuff together while retaining a little flex - hopefully someone else will chime in with an alternative if there is a better option...

Jenny x

ps. for info. my Chinese D90 hard-body is 180mm wide across the top of the rear wings (so around 200mm wide wheel-arch to wheelarch lip, if they were still fitted on mine), and 410mm long - which would suggest it is pretty similar to the Tamiya shell after all, other than the wheelbase it would seem.... Out of interest, have you measured the wheel-arch centres on your lexan shell vs the chassis wheelbase?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wheel nut to wheel nut is 242mm whereas the arch centres are nearer 245. Always thought the front wheels sat back a little.  agree with you about lexan, its horrible stuff especially for scale bodies. Its fine for buggies etc that are constantly being rolled at high sped but as far as I,m concerned polystyrene rules!!! Also painting the outside allow you to play  with paint effects that don't work on the inside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jenny, what is the wheelbase of your hard body? As its hard it shouldnt be too difficult to shorten the rear bodywork a little to fit the shorter wheelbase? A bit of old fashioned cut and shut:rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/13/2019 at 2:21 AM, Busdriver said:

Jenny, what is the wheelbase of your hard body? As its hard it shouldnt be too difficult to shorten the rear bodywork a little to fit the shorter wheelbase? A bit of old fashioned cut and shut:rolleyes:

Hi Bus' - sorry, I didn't see this post until now... as I recall, the wheelbase of my D90 shell (which was one from ebay/China, but basically what you get in the RC4WD Gelande kit, ahem) is around* 275mm as I mentioned above - although I've chopped the arches of mine around extensively of course (including removing the front wings completely!) since I'm running such big 2.2 tyres on that truck...

*Interestingly, they say the truck kit (with this body) has a 275mm wheelbase, but the body set has a 282mm wheelbase on their website: https://store.rc4wd.com/Gelande-II-D90-Hard-Plastic-Body-Kit_p_18.html - either way, this would suggest this body is closer to 1:9 scale than 1:10 - certainly when you park it next to my Tamiya 1:10 Jeep Wangler body, the Land Rover looks noticeably bigger.

Either way, I think you could use that body (or the ebay version) and with a combination of longer rear links on the chassis, and chopping the rear arches/load bay around, get something that works?

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now